I ordered the d4sv2 but didn’t get 2 options for flood and throw just had one option for LED & TINT it said I went with LH351D 5500k 90 CRI once I clicked that,that was it no other options for other channel?
I bought a streamlight TLR-1 from amazon and it looked and worked IDENTICAL to the real deal. It turned out to be counterfeit. It broke after 3 or 4 range trips and I sent it in to streamlight. They notified me that it was counterfeit and are sending me a new one as part of warranty. I paid the dollar ammount for the real deal. Gotta be careful anymore.
@tacticalgrizzly9828 in your guide you mentioned modifying it to sit lower. I want to be able to screw the tail cap on all the way like how it comes stock. So I'm going to find a way to make it sit more on the body of the light. Any tips on what glue or epoxy to use to more or less permanently attach the switchback?
@@cranberryrelish1179 that's right. I cut the lip off the bottom of the switchback and then used whatever epoxy I found at Walmart to glue it to the right spot on the tailcap. I recommend just using the included washer for awhile to make sure you absolutely love the light and the switchback. Then consider gluing.
No. I'm aware of Goonbeam but their products don't interest me. Goonbeam is basically an assembly service with a lot of marketing. They buy off-the-shelf electronic components and install them in inexpensive and/or "clone" hosts and do a lot of marketing to sell them. These days I'm more interested in companies that are innovating and trying out new designs.
@tacticalgrizzly9828 thanks for replying I have one and it's pretty nice just wondering if you have handle them and would know what emitter and driver it is.
Hey! You've answered a few questions of mine on reddit over the last few weeks, it seems like we have similar projects. We're also looking at doing a Backslash and I stumbled on your video. Nice work!
I just stumbled over your website and read a few reviews. Thank you for the effort, it made me choose to buy the Sofirn SC33! Really well made reviews on your website just wanted to let you know :)
That godawful huge caution label printing has got to GO! Too much labeling. Single mode spot is weird, should have at least a momentary turbo. No mention of Acebeam's first try with aux leds. Kind of a meh follow up to the amazing M1.
hey brotha , how many lumens is that light there ? n do you have anything around 2500 to 3000 lumens n would trade/swap/barter possibly ? , i have lights , etc here , not junk either i could/would part with , emal me too bro, thanks > tom !
This one is 2000lm on the floodlight and 500lm on the spotlight. The cool white version is brighter. If you want one, you can buy it from Acebeam.com. If you have a light you want to trade, list it on the BST thread in r/flashlight on Reddit.
This is cool but at the end of tje day its still a traxxas and they are not durable amd way over priced. Yes i have a rustler 4x4 and 4 slashes. They are cheaply made
Ahhh but more importantly… at the end of the day this guy is real happy with it and enjoys it regardless. And THATS all that matters. Some folks just love Slashes… period. So many cool variations and just the build and mods alone are sometimes the best part. But yeah, he loves it and loves it enough to share it.
Stop it! Get some help! Who cares it’s his & he enjoys it! I have thousands in my Tekno 1/8 scales & still would build one of the these just to see how it runs!
@INSIDIOUS-ONE I'm trying to give help from my experiences and mistakes lol. I'd build one but I'd use a different platform like a associated tlr or in your case tekno sc truck
LOL, my Rustler/Bandit build is indestructible. And the new BL-2S chassis are the most durable cars on the market right now for that price. Only thing better are proper 1:8 scale competition kits from TEKNO, Mugen, Xray..
@LyroLife your nuts lol those bls chassis are no different then the brushed version amd yes they break just as easy. I race with them in spec class. The pro sc10 is the top in durability for a rtr
This switchback does not affect waterproofing or how far the tailcap screws down. It still screws down all the way and is still water resistant. The switchback model is in the title of the video. It's the "DF" version.
I don't know. I know THIS one is fake because I bought it on Aliexpress for like $30, but I don't know for sure how to tell a fake one from a real one just by looking at it.
Ok thanks just checking I was understanding the reasoning. I’ve been doing the flashlight thing for a long time. Back when we were building high output incandescent flashlights. Spring bypasses were the first thing I would do when getting a new light.
Sorry, I don't do any modding services. If you have a Convoy 21700 flashlight, Convoy sells a drop-in forward-clicky tailcap here: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805777624431.html
That's so much work involved.. Would be great if convoy just provided forward switches to buy separately for their flashlights or better yet provide an option to buy with or without forward click.
If you have flashlights with those awful c-clip attachment, especially expensive lights, there is a useful solution. Attach the clip then put a ranger band (or any WIDE durable rubberband) around the flashlight but UNDER the clip, yet over the C-clip part. Alternately, if you dont want the rubber, paracord, or even just paracord sheathe and do several wraps. Works like a charm and on deep-carry clips, it can all be above the c-clip and isnt disruptive at all. I prefer my ranger bands because they are just useful for several different things, if the need arises.
