Is there a way you could coalign the lasers? Not the end of the world, i get it, zero the IR and shoot with the IR. Just use the vis laser to point. But does it look possible to coalign? If not just to make the zero process easier?
JB weld makes a metal infused epoxy that is like clay. And you mold the gardening compound in with your hands and you put it down like clay, so it doesn't run everywhere, and you push it into place. And you have the extra metal infusion for hardness. That would be good to use.
i am thinking about hooking up a digital infrared camera to my scope and putting a screen inside my goggles or a screen mounted to my helmet. kinda curious about a transparent oled in my goggles. battery pack mounted on the back of the helmet and a wire from the battery down the arm and plugs into the camera. the oicw at home.
I dont really deal with the digital stuff. For the price, and difficulty of obtaining parts, i just took the L and went analog. My eyes never vibed with the digitals when ive tried them before either.
@@heythereheroco ya tell me about it man, been waiting for this v780 display. Only reason I went with the digital is to get myself into entry level night shooting. But it blows my mind that you can get tubes easier than most of these displays.
Friend, great little laser unit here but when you reassembled this I didn’t see a water sealing gasket for the panel so is there one that’s maybe a clear silicone that I couldn’t tell? Or is there another silicone cover that goes over the unit itself? If not, no big deal, an easy thing to add if desired.
lol, and that’s 400$ more than they used to be. 100 vs 800$ is a huge difference. For someone who may just want it for a .22lr or just to shoot occasionally why spend so much more? We can’t all justify that price
they dont. thats why you just have to pick which one youll use. They are not high enough quality to be slaved, while theyre in the same mount, they will never co-align
I potted 5 with liquid electrical tape and hot glue. Also applied acrylic conformal coating to all the electronics. Lol, on some of them the top button doesn’t work and neither do the + or minus switches. Thankfully, the other power switch works and the switch to change between vis and ir works. I also have the pad to change the power levels, which is annoying since I don’t look and can’t use it on a lot of the guns I have due to space. On the plus side, they don’t revert back to a base power level so I can pre program the power setting with those pads, if you’re using ir you should really use the lowest power setting anyway, 20mw just using that usable and way too bright. Even the 5mw should be used with a diffuser. I bought them as dedicated IR lasers so I only wanna use the ir setting. It would be nice if the vis and ir were slaves though. Don’t see why they aren’t, wouldn’t cost more. It’s definitely full of glue and liquid electrical tape. Nothing is moving out of place and it’s better sealed against water now and moisture.
Your order just shipped! Thank you for your support! I am trying to gather components for a digital build, but it seems so is everyone else so parts are hard to come by at reasonable prices. but eventually id like to!
Might be a good idea to blast the PCB with conformal coating while you have the unit open, after potting. That way any ingress of moisture won't be as much of an issue. A thin bead of blue loctite around the mating surfaces of the cover and a silica gel packet left inside would help, too.
@@heythereheroco not runcam and not that displays, I have built my own monoculars for years. So , I have just made little upgrades. Added ir illumination, change battery to 18650.
This is fantastic... but my question is with the laser diodes.... has anybody taken them out and is there a way to get the lasers to co-align? If so I'm sold.
You’d be able to use the pvs14 glass and the tube (the expensive stuff), but the electronic guts are not compatible. Then you could sell your old pvs14 housing kit to someone for a couple hundreds bucks and put that toward another set of lenses and a second tube
While the assembly is pretty straight forward, being that they are a more diy option I tend to leave it that way. Tubes are crazy spendy and I’d hate for one of my units to damage one!
This unit sells for 600+ euros in Europe . For that money I bought an Inforce WML gen II with both white and IR illumination coupled with a Holosun LS117IR . Both real firearm tools plus I got some change for ammo . Holosun went for 270 euros and the Inforce for 180 euros ...Still nice video , nice effort . I use the G&P dbal A2 for airsoft training . Very nice unit for 200 euros
I dont know in what world a sotac perst is 600 euro. a real Zenitco one is 600e, maybe, in which case it would be way better than a holosun. But this is a replica, which was around 90$ usd. Still a pretty potent IR laser, and for 100$ its hard to beat on something just for fun. Obviously wouldnt trust my life to a china clone, but i have fun taking things apart and making them better
i tried a couple picks to no avail. the better method would be to find a chemical tat dissolves the adhesive. Pretty sure its just red loctite but i was hesitant to put too much heat into it
