When things break, I do the best I can to re-purpose and fix them...You can too! Not only will you save some serious money but you will have the remarkable feeling of knowing that you did it yourself! There are several ways to approach a repair. these are the steps that have worked for me. Comments are appreciated, even constructive ones. That's how we all learn and get better....Thank you for watching!
Kohler engines love to leak oil! In your case, that area is not under pressure, so the oil is just getting spashed out. Not a big deal. You should check the oil every time you use the mower anyway, so just live with it. I am working on one where the cheap yellow plastic oil drain valve has vibrated loose at the block. The oil leak from that is constant. But it is a bugger to get a wrench on it, with the motor in the tractor. Don't really want to have to pull it out just to snug up a fitting. Arrrgh!
@@bobmcl2406 I understand that completely! I was just saying that to another commenter that I actually pulled the entire engine off last week and resealed the sump and took that stupid oddball drain plug out completely, cleaned it and slathered it with high temperature sealer and really cranked it down so it will not move now. What a great spot for an oil drain plug, very bottom of engine resting flat on the base of the engine platform! Not!
I purchased my Husqvarna YTH 22V46 in March 2015 for $1519. In the FALL of 2020, the entire gasket came out during an oil change and all the oil poured out over the frame and onto my shop floor. I paid a nearby dealer $248 to fix it. He claimed it would never leak again and this was a common problem. Today, almost 4 years later, I noticed oil leakage when I backed my mower out. A closer inspection revealed the same problem. They were supposed to use a gasket on the fix. Absolutely terrible. Today this mower costs $2699. My guess is the mating surfaces of the seam are not flat. Not sure what route to take just like your video. The clift looks pretty good.
@@haroldjohnson4276 I hear ya! I finally took the engine off the mower a few days ago and tore it down. (3 Hr. job) I tried a high heat permatex gasket sealer. So far, so good. It felt so good to wipe down and clean that engine deck! Cleaned underneath as well...caked oil and dirt. A lot of high priced junk out there....Thank you for watching!
@@fixeverything4u I have a 2005 John Deere 150 with the same motor but no problems. It's the original JD not the cheap version they make today. My neighbor also has a Kabuta Zero Turn with the same motor. They use this motor for a lot of applications. Tomorrow I'm going to try and pinpoint the leak.
@@haroldjohnson4276 I'm sure you'll find it. That engine is heavy! Have a nice bench or work surface ready before you lift it out of your mower! I used 2 sawhorses and a piece of scrap plywood just outside my shed.
Guess why it's leaking? When the dealer installed the gasket he did not tighten the bolts. Needs a new seal now. Looks like they used form-a-gasket and it held for a little while. Have a Happy 4th and make us some more good videos. And if you want something done right, always do it yourself!
what a fantastic video. will check out other videos. I wonder if there Is there a product to spray on that hub to help slow down the formation of rust?
Thank you! There is a solution called "Move to SC, AZ, CA, NM, TX, FL, GA or anywhere the Highway Dept. doesn't use salt in the winter!" Taxes will be better too!
The wire would have to be thick enough to be "grabbed" by the threaded post inside and be pierced by the needle connector. This connector will only take a certain range of gauges.
Hi dude, u meter this ignitor? my heater have this type of ignitor but the coil its out. i cant find in the work shop a replace, i may make one by my self using kanthal wire, but i cant find what is the resistance of this ignitor originaly.
I dont know the resistance of the filament. However, you don't need to make one. The DH30 ignitor head is available on Amazon and many other websites. $10-$15 seems to be the average cost. Easy push and twist bayonet socket installation. Thank you for watching!
Where did you get the contacter and capacitor? And i do have the same unit. Did you need a serial number or something to find those parts? I don't see any. Just a sticker on the box that has the contactor in it. Thanks. Almost done!
There is a value printed on the capacitor and a model number sticker on the contactor. Write them down and go to Amazon. There are many brands to choose from for both. If you're not sure or the printing and sticker are missing from them, call Rheem and give them your AC unit model number, they will give you the part numbers to look for. About $31 total for both. If you're unit only needs a cleaning and it's not buzzing or malfunctioning in any way, I would leave it alone. I only replaced mine because one of them was malfunctioning (humming), in the dead of winter with the thermostat set to heat with no call for AC, and since I was already in there for the cleaning, I replaced both for smooth, future operation...
Wow, lucky me, I waited till this week to do my unit. It's the same as yours, but mine had 3 inches of dirt and leaves in the bottom . I wasn't sure why my exterior wasn't loosening and that I missed some screws. Now i can get back to it! I saw so many videos without removing the shell, and I knew that was wrong. Thanks!
So glad this helped! Remember, if it was put together, it has to come apart! I was a little kid who took all my toys apart to see what made them work. I broke everything! But, that's how you learn! 😊
Things to improve on next time. 1. Always have Jack stand on Jack stand points and lower the jack just below jack stand. If you rely on jack alone, you will shorten /ruin the life of jack and put yourself in harm by just resting on Jack. 2. Spray rust penetrant few min before try to remove bolts. Instead of using hammer to loosen bolt, give few seconds good effort to tighten the bolt. Then reverse to remove the bolts. 3. Smooth the hub by sand paper(may need wire brush), Use Anti seize compound on the hub surface receiving the rotor. 4. Remove Brake Pads from Caliper brackets. Clean the brackets where Brake Pads rest. Use grease on on where it rest on brackets, and the back of brake pads. 5. Always good to use new pads. I
There was. Not shown in video. Assembly was the reverse of taking it apart. It was not a C clip, more of a spring clip between the ball joint shaft and bottom of the knuckle housing.
@@pingpong9656 Yes, I looked at it when it was off and I couldn't figure out why it was there and what purpose it served. It's very thin, perhaps it's a guide to find the hole the ball joint shaft slips into.
Thx for sharing! Cool to see Picun and other smaller budget companies creeping up on quality and sound for the $$. Had a pair of Picun several years ago and was impressed with the sound, but wasn't keen on the plastic build at the time (plus it didn't fold). Thx again for sharing!!
What brand ball joint press tool did you use? The ones on Amazon all seem to have week C clamps and tend to bend if the ball joint is really stuck in there.
Power Built. I borrowed it at Auto Zone. They let you use any tools for free as long as you leave a deposit on a credit card. When finished, you return it and get your deposit back!
Awesome vid. Trying to determine if the wheel bearing is bad or the CV axle. It had a grinding pulsing sound that gets worse when I turn right, is loud when it’s straight and quieter when left. I spun it by hand and can’t hear anything. I am contemplating doing this myself or just paying for it so your video really helped
My bad bearing creaked like a dry hinged door and was worse when turning. I also replaced my drivers side CV shaft a few years back which makes a clunking or knocking sound (louder when turning) You can feel it at the steering wheel. The internal joints wore out with no grease to lubricate them. Grease boot was split open. Bring it to a mechanic and get it diagnosed. Then do it yourself if you're able. Even with a diagnostic fee it would be far less expensive if you could do it yourself after you find out what the issue is.
@@fixeverything4u I can feel it in the steering. It is a knocking/grinding that varies with speed. The boots are fine. Maybe I should replace both while Im in there. I don’t really have a trusted mechanic. It’s at 80k. Trying to use it until the water pump fails then it basically a throw away car. 😂
@@mxerb5912 Yes, be careful, there is a clip ring just inside the drive unit that holds the CV Axle in place. Find a video to watch that covers this before you attempt. There will be some oil leakage once the shaft is out.
Great question! I don't think I mentioned that in the video. A "fine" piece of sandpaper using my index finger. Both the ball and contact tab took about 10 seconds to clean. Then I wiped them off with a clean cloth with a shot of windex.
@@fixeverything4u ... I have a heater like yours that I bought several years when they were cheap. It's been sitting in the garage since then. It's cold now, as you well know, and maybe I should give it a try again. I think I have the same problem you did, plus the wick is messed up. Hey, you should make a wick video. We all like those. And, have you ever used diesel fuel? they say it works. I don't know, but I'll try it.
I haven't used Diesel and it just so happens this unit needs a wick. The top edge is crunchy and brittle and doesn't burn very efficiently. Most likely from substandard K1 fuel or burning right to empty.
Can you use the thumb screw wire connectors to splice another section of landscape (16) gauge low voltage wire, about 15 feet to be exact, to add one more additional led 12w light?
You should be able to, but this will draw power away from the main line and those lamps may appear dimmer. Example: I have a string of 10 halogen ground lights and I ran a line off of that line to run 4 more for another section of shrubs and the last one furthest from the power pack was the dimmest. Now, LEDs are different, and draw far less current, so it may not be noticeable or dim at all. Try it....and let me know...
@@fixeverything4u This is a follow up to my previous post earlier today. I use the thumb screws as I stated in my previous post and added about 18 feet more of Landscaping wire and one LED light. I have a 300 W Sunvie transformer, and to my surprise it came out fantastic. I now have a total of 12 LED lights. No issues at all. I wish I could upload some pictures of the outcome but I don’t know if I can do this on this app. Thanks a lot for your help!
Hey I have a Vizio M43-C1. Im getting a popping noise from my left speaker. Intermittent. Only when audio is on. Every input. Doesn’t happen on external speakers i have plugged in. I swapped the internal speakers for new ones, still popping. Picture is fine no issues. On that side is the main board (green). What could be causing this? Thinking of swapping the main board. the sound is definitely lower and on the left side. Coming out of speaker. Any ideas? I dont think its a capacitor because my tv still works?
I have a question....I have the Picun B12 and I'm having trouble hooking up to my wifi...I go according to the instruction, and I hold down the button, it beeps telling me that it's on, then in about 2 seconds, it turns off. Nothing happens....could you help me?
@@fixeverything4u Thanks...I think the batter is too low or just bad....I'm returning the product because it says power on, then immediately power off. Nothing will work for this headphone. It's damaged.
LMAOOOOO, what a hack. I can't believe you sanded the ignitor. Now your going to get some dumb ass like yourself, thinking the ignitor needs to be sanded and they are going to break it. You didn't do a CO test , temp rise etc. LOSER
No need to clean the ignitor, it is a HSI it is ceramic and really easy to break. You should not remove it unless it is already broken. Yes, you should clean the flame sensor.
I have been quoted $1200 to replace front and rear brake pads and rotors on cx9 2020 in Australia. And that is not with Mazda. Mazda I assume will be more . Thanks to your videos I can do same job with help of my mate for about 4 to 5 hundred dollars depending on brake pad and rotors brand
Absolutely! Last year the float switch on my sump pump went. That switch isn't available locally so I ordered it. Thankfully I was able to coax the original worn-out switch to work just long enough until the new one arrived! I was inches away from a basement flood situation. All due to a $15 switch! Excellent advice. Thank you billnipp2309....🙂
