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Excellent video! Much of it was quite over my head but still helpful. I am a General Contractor and thought i would design and build my irrigation system for my wife's garden myself but i think i may need to hire a professional.
My valves are above the dirt and when I tried to replace the new valve, the length between the old valves and new were different and I couldn’t figure it out. Do you have a video for those situations? Thanks.
I don’t know what the difference is between west and east coast, but I have a whole bunch of tools as a self employed irrigation contractor. It never fails I’ll end up messing with pex, copper or any other types of pipe and have acquired all the respective tools for working on those. Our backflow are usually plumbed in with copper, and normally it’s pex from the water meter to the copper backflow stub outs. And in my particular part of the Carolina’s I work on frost hydrants, spigots, livestock troughs and a whole lot else. I think it’s very interesting seeing how different the same job title can be depending on where you’re at. Love your videos!
Thanks. Boy you work on alot of stuff I never touch. I stick to PVC and my truck is neatly and orderly full. I have no room for tools and fittings for other materials.
Why is it that your video illustrates that a slow rotation is better than a fast one? Orifice size dictates water output (all other things being equal) not rotation speed. A stream of water half as much as another but moving at half the speed will apply exact amount of water to the soil. This is a basic concept that is used with Matched Precip rated nozzles. I have used this kinds of rotary nozzles successfully for many years in over a hundred different projects in the hot, arid desert SW with no problems. Low precip rates are great in heavy or compacted soils or steep grades, for example
If they can handle up to 150psi, why can they not be installed before the valves on the constant pressure side of my irrigation. There is no way I am pushing even 60psi on the sprinklers.
I understand your statement/question but I don't have a good answer for that but I have seen products installed on the 'hot' side of the valves that shouldn't be and they, indeed, eventually fail so I believe it's a good practice to follow their instruction regarding this.
Thanks for the video. About 3 years ago I replaced my Orbit Saturn II rotary with Hunter MP rotators. So far I'm pretty much sold on them. Yes I get dry spots, but I've always had dry spots. I have a kidney shaped yard so it's hard to get even coverage. The Orbits, and I assume all rotary are similar, are horrible in managing coverage due to the way the go to one end then back. Because of this the coverage changes drastically as you change the angles. I wish someone would develop a software program to optimize placement. To bad the Hunter rep couldn't help you with your problem. Looking forward to your newer video mention from recent jobs in June 2024.
I flowed the instructions to run automatically. I flipped the switch to set program. Set my program and once finished flipped the switch back to run or manual. I’m pretty sure it’s not running my program. I also notice when I flip the switch from set program to run or manual my station run times will read as off. When I switch it back to set program it displays the correct run time.
Yes. That is normal for the run times to show zero when the switch is flipped to RUN or OFF. I can't help you with the troubleshooting of why the system isn't running. Too many variables without being there to see things.
Just spent 2 weeks figruing out Van and even Huner MP are a joke, all the way around. Hunter Pro Adjustable Arc, period. They function fine @ 20lb and work better up to 40lb psi. Van nozzles Do Not are about you unless 30lb psi up. good vids man
English: My MP rotator no longer rotates after the first season. Cleaned and pickled in vinegar doesn't help. Switch to Rainbird Van. REPLY IN ENGLISH: The only time I see MP Rotators clog this bad is when dirt got in the lines or when it's on a well or dirty water system. If it is on a dirty water system, see my video on this subject. I don't recommend MP Rotators on dirty water systems. If you switch to standard nozzles, consider watching my video called The Best Nozzles. The RainBird VANs are one of the worst adjustable nozzles for performance as you will see in that video. I see this everyday. REPLY IN GERMAN: Das einzige Mal, dass ich sehe, dass MP-Rotatoren so stark verstopfen, ist, wenn Schmutz in die Leitungen gelangt ist oder wenn sie sich in einem Brunnen- oder Schmutzwassersystem befinden. Wenn es sich um ein Schmutzwassersystem handelt, sehen Sie sich mein Video zu diesem Thema an. Ich empfehle MP Rotatoren nicht für Schmutzwassersysteme. Wenn Sie auf Standarddüsen umsteigen, sollten Sie sich mein Video mit dem Titel „Die besten Düsen“ ansehen. Wie Sie in diesem Video sehen werden, sind die RainBird VANs hinsichtlich der Leistung eine der schlechtesten einstellbaren Düsen. Ich sehe das jeden Tag.
Do you prefer the rain bird Swing jont to the Hunter? The Hunter has more mobility at the joints making for a more flexible/easier installation but I've seen some reviews saying Hunter assemblies have issues with splitting and leaking at the joints. Any thoughts?
Yes, I much prefer the RB to the Hunter. The RB swing pipe can be carefully cut and shortened if needed or cut and replace the fitting if needed, etc. but the Hunter doesn't allow any modification that I'm aware of and I feel that the fittings are awkward. I haven't seen the Hunter in the field hardly at all so I don't have an opinion on its performance.
Another excellent and helpful video ! Glad i came across it. I had just rigged a pop up head to putting a T below it, putting a new shorter head on and then adding a drip line to that T fitting I added. But now I see they are only supposed to drip at 30 psi and need filters ? I guess i need to go back and redo them the correct way ? I guess i should add another head and use it with a kit like you showed here. Because i need the one existing pop up for the Azalea bush there and the drip line for a potted plant.
Thanks for the basic information. However, I'm having a hard time finding anything more detailed on this topic. There have to be more options than the 2 basic nozzles you discuss here (excluding the torro and Rotator nozzles). Like, what about brass nozzles? I got the standard Rainbird (non-adjustable) but there's a lot of mist so I'm sure I'm loosing a lot to evaporation and coverage at the edges doesn't seem great. What nozzles are better for producing large heavy drops rather than light and misty? I live in the hot desert with high clay. I set watering intervals to maximize absorption.
Seriously, the recommendations in the video stand true. I see it everyday. I don't know anyone that uses brass nozzles anymore in a professional realm. The only brass nozzles I see used anymore are the cheapy popups from the home centers and hardware stores and those "brands" don't have an interchangeable nozzle thread on them so you can't use other brands like Hunter or RainBird on them.
Thanks for the video and the heads up! You just saved me a lot of money and likely issues down the road. I live in the Phoenix Arizona area where we often see temperatures over 110° several months of the year. I was literally just about to submit an order for a bunch of Hunter MP Rotator nozzles. They seem to be top of the line, the best of their kind, and really I just wanted the rotary nozzles for the coolness Factor, so my yard looked like the Bellagio while my sprinklers were on. It seriously looks so cool! But I was a little worried about the fact that they put out so little water because in the desert, if you water too slowly you lose a lot to evaporation before it can actually penetrate. Their MP800 series puts out more water so I was looking at those rather than the 1000 series. I guess I should go back to the boring regular spray nozzles. Boo! 😒
So funny! Yep. I started in this industry in Bakersfield, CA in 1984 where I grew up and had to deal with the heat there too and it creates a challenge to get complete coverage. The 800's do, indeed, put out more water but they don't spray quite as far so that obviously must be kept in mind.
The computer ribbon simply pulls out/off the circuit board BUT you MUST unplug the timer from the power source first. and be sure you have a good 9volt battery installed in the panel.
You mentioned placing the inline valves in a box in the ground, is it ok to place them above the ground say 2 foot or so. This allows easier maintenance for me. Got some back problems and hard to work that low.
I want to add rotors but I would need 3/4" inlet PGP Ultras to cover the area I want... I use 3 in corners of a lot with MP3000s right now. I simply don't know if adding 3/4" inlet bodies out would not have enough flow since I'm using 1/2" lines currently...
You can use 3/4" x 1/2" threaded bushings inside the inlets of the PGP's to reduce them to 1/2" but the real test of what will work in your situation is doing the math. If your 1/2" pipe is thin-wall pipe then it can have a flow rate of about 6 GPM. The PGP nozzles have numbers on them which is their flow rate so it makes it easy to calculate. Look on the PGP specs to see how far you need to reach with the sprays and see which nozzle you need to use. Then see how many heads you can have on that line before it's maxed out. 3 PGP's x 2.0 GPM = 6 GPM.
@@SprinklerPros For sure! I have a 3/4" rotor with one of those bushings on my above ground setup in a couple areas on my property and it works decent... I have a MP2000 in line on the same hoses for a smaller section on the side of my home.... if I add 2 3/4" rotors (Hunter PGP Ultra) there is not enough pressure to sustain it however... I did pick up some PGJ at Home Depot but have yet to try them out. I may try to figure out the math! The zones I want them on would need 3... I would need to figure out the flowrate on the lower end ones down the slope... just not sure how I'd go about doing that.
Keep in mind that just because PGJ's are smaller doesn't mean they use less water. IF you bought the PGJ's at a home center then you didn't get the nozzle rack with it. The PGJ nozzles aren't designed to be adjusted for distance. They want you to use the specific nozzle for the specific distance you want. You can check the flow rates and nozzles/distances of PGJ's and PGP's at the mfr website and look up the documentation. www.hunterindustries.com/
I'm sure it's such a simple step for you, but I would have appreciated seeing how you opened the control panel. On mine, I'm pressing the lever to the right and pulling the panel door to open but it is not opening. Thank you
Yes I'm aware of methods how to get it out. My point in the video was to show the basic hassle of SIMPLY trying to remove it. Thanks for the input for those who don't know.
is there a limit on the number of minutes that you can have each station run? we start watering at midnight and would like to stop at 10:00 a.m. so we would need to set the run time to 600 mins.
Yes there's a limit but without being in front of a RD I don't know what that limit is. If it doesn't give you enough then you can create a second start time after that 1st cycle is complete. You have up to 4 start times available per program.
That is promoting an excellent product for the public's sake. Hunter doesn't compensate me and when someone buys those nozzles from my Resources site, I only earn pennies off each one from Amazon.
I keep having leaks in my Y filter which are exactly like these. They seem to always leak from the bottom of the top "cone" piece that you screw on and off the access and clean the filter itself. Any tips on how to fix these type of leaks?
Some brands of wye filters have an O-ring inside and if that's missing or torn/damaged, it will leak. Those threads must remain clean of debris/dirt/sand. It's easy to clean with water and a toothbrush. Another reason is too high water pressure. The PSI shouldn't be above 45 at the wye filter. A way you can check that is to remove the small hose cap at the base of the cone and screw on a pressure gauge.
MIchael, your operating pressure at the furthest head from the sprinkler valve should be between 40 and 50 PSI. Best at 45. If it's too high then a brass pressure regulator before the valve(s) and/or pressure regulated heads (40 PSI) are in order. Every situation is different. I just did two of these line modifications this week for MPs. I intend to create a video about both of them soon. If you need to check the operating pressure you can purchase the Underhill pressure gauge and nozzle adapter on my Sprinklers Resources page : sprinklerpros.net/resources/sprinklers/
Dale, a couple of reasons. when splicing into an existing situation, the pipe cuts must be exact for the unions to meet up properly. When splicing in a union sometimes there is little to no flexibility in the piping to scrunch the union in. We don't encounter those problems with a slip fix.
I have 1/2 inch brown tubing with pre installed emitters running in my garden but some plants need a little more water than others. Can I punch into it with additional emitters? Or add bubblers using 1/4 tubing? You said techline should not be punched into with 1/4 inch tubing. Can you elaborate?
Alena, Nice idea but that tubing isn't designed to be punched into. Consider a 1/2" barbed tee (made for the Techline) and add another run of Techline down the other side of the plants. Another way is to tee off the Techline to 1/2" black tubing and punch holes in it to your heart's content. 😉
@@SprinklerPros thank you! So where can I find this barbed tee that’s made specifically for tech line? And how is it different from the barbed tees that go into 1/2 blank line supply tubing, which I normally use to add 1/4 delivery branches (I think of these as the “last mile” as they will deliver 1-4gal directly to the base of the plant) Side note: I probably need some help with my industry terminology vocabulary ;)
Your lingo's pretty on track. I purchase pretty much all my materials at professional landscape/irrigation suppliers like Ewing or SiteOne. They stock the Techline barbed fittings. The difference is the size. The 1/4" barbed couplers you are asking about are tiny compared to the Techline fittings. As mentioned in the video, consider avoiding using the 1/4" tubing to the plants and putting emitters next to the base of plants and trees. In most cases you can put the emitters directly into the 1/2" black tubing and let the roots come to the water. I hope this answered your questions thus far.
I was in a situation like this recently. I might have tried this if I'd known. Solved the problem with a 22.5 and a 11.25 elbow. Hard to find these though.
Good to see that you are still making videos, thanks for the information and wisdom. I was almost ready to pull the trigger on the MP Rotors but I will wait and see. Pressure is an issue, track home, 700 sq ft yard, typical Ca. It gets hot here, I am looking to get a WI/FI timer and water at the crack of dawn during the summer.
After spending 5 hours yesterday unexcavating about 30 feet of funny pipe from six to 8 inches of dirt and huge roots that required a sawzall I appreciate your drip quidelines here. Never bury funny pipe!
Cin, yikes! That's alot of work. I've been through many of those types of situations. Was that funny pipe being used as drip tubing? I've seen that as well. In fact, I am about to remove a bunch of funny pipe in a guy's back yard and replace it with real drip tubing.
So if I have a zone where I dont need one of the sprinklers and want to covert only that one to drip supply tubing I need to close the other heads? Even though those are being used?
That's up to you but that is the norm because if someone wants to convert to drip, they are typically doing away with the need for sprays but you situation may be different.
@kp-gbuniqueinterest I have a similar situation I'm planning to address. You can keep the other pop-up sprayers working if needed. But you'll have to make sure the drip line emits sufficient water for the plants. Drip irrigation generally requires a longer run time than the sprayers because of lower water pressure . You can get around it with the drip tube layout or choosing emitters with a higher gph rate.
Okay, I had to stop your video @ 3:06. There are some very good reasons for designing above grade manifolds. The first is age of user. Old knees/back don't like to bend down to acess buried valves. The second. Any kind of leak fills the valve box up with mud which covers the wires/connections. The third. Spider and other crawly creatures can take up residency in those buried boxes. Yes in colder climate you have be sure to blow out the system in the fall, so nothing freezes. I feel that one of worst mistakes I ever made in irrigation design is using a below grade design in bury boxes. I'm now in the process of raising all manifolds above grade (maybe 30" or so) so I drag my lawn chair up close get my glasses down on my nose to see the wiring and the I can install appropriate rebuild kits. Take the user/maintenance personnel in mind when your designing irrigation layouts. The original above grade design doesn't look that bad other than the isolation valves you mentioned. bjr23
I have all my watering days on program A tha say skp sequencing mode and my system is not watering. What does sequence mode mean and how do I get out of it.
Lenny, page 3 of the owners manual says,"Station sequence delay - Provides an adjustable delay period between stations during the operating sequence to accommodate slow-closing valves or a required well-recovery period." I have never encountered this. I looked through the manual but couldn't find a way to get out of that mode. You may need to call tech support. Here is the manual if you don't have it already: cdn2.toro.com/en/-/media/Files/Irritrol/products/controllers/rain-dial-r-series/373-0538V_d.ashx
