Hi, I am not sure as this mesh is a liitle bit thicker because the PET coating (instead of emulsion) is already laminated to the mesh. We have never tried it.
Hi Rich, It uses the Riso Master rolls. They are a mesh laminated with a PVC coating to create the stencil. You can email us at Sales@xpresscreen.com for more info.
In this video we are using our Riso 120 QS Mesh. It has mesh on one side and a PET coating laminated to the other side.It is used for Thermal Screen making with our QS200 and QS2536.
Hi Wild X West, You can order the mesh with the image burned. You will have to re-stretch the mesh over you frames. Keep in mind that if it is multiple color with tight registration it will be difficult to do as the mesh may distort slightly when you re-stretch it. You can call into our office for more details. 800-597-9530. Thanks!!
Hi Bosun, thank you for your question. There are several reasons. The image area for the MiScreen is A3 but that is nearly and edge to edge print which might difficult with off contact on the 12" x 17" plastic frame. With a double stencil you can increase your squeegee and print area, you can move the image further up the frame to make left crests easier to print, and the metal frame will give you a higher tension to print with.
Since the dry thermal system is based on a low tension system you will need to increase your off contact slightly to help clear out the screen. On an auto press you will go from around 5mm to 6 or 7 mm of off-contact. On a manual press add another 1-2 mm. We get questions all the time about how we can pull off so many colors at so low of a tension (15 Newtons). 35 Newtons covers a multitude of sins... you don't need HIGH tension you need EQUAL tension!
@@Xpresscreen it seems like more off contact causes you to push harder, and that seems to be causing bleed. I don’t if this Jay I’m talking to but I need some pointers, I’m timid about offering my services to the public b/c I can’t get consistent prints, and the screen is always drying out.🤦🏼♂️
🤔when you stretch a Goccopro 100 screen after its already burned, does that increase the size of the dots in the screen and if so how do you adjust for that?
Hi! Great Question. It will, but a screen printer already has a bigger problem than that... dot gain. The amount of enlargement that you will get from stretching is minimal compared to the amount of dot gain you can experience with thin inks. The stretched dot can be between 0-8% (15 Newtons), dot gain can be as high as 40%. So a 60lpi dot might gain to 56lpi from stretch but it is not a huge deal. On a side note I always recommend that instead of lightening you image to combat dot gain, increase your Gamma slightly so you do not lose your contrast. If you are totally stuck on wanting that specific lpi then I suggest going with the QS Series where you stretch the frame first then burn. Thanks!
The Riso line of exposure units use a mild RIP to generate halftones. No need tp Bitmap... that's old school! You can use grayscale or color... Simply set your LPI (37-200) and Angle (0-90) settings and hit print. The thermal head will remove the PET coating with amazing detail!
Our South American Vendor does exactly that. They use wooden frames (on the larger QS Series the mesh is 22.5" wide) and staple it to the frame. The key difference here is that on the QS Series you stretch, then burn. ON the GP and MiScreen you burn, then stretch. I would say that the metal frame with fresh tape will give you about as much tension as a stapled frame. And the small stretch frame will give you much more tension. I hope that helps!
Thanks for the great video, maybe you can answer a question for me, what kind of reel do you use? What is the name of this transfer paper? mesh? And where can you order it? Thanks 😊
Hi photoXnotes, thank you for your kind comments! The reel (roll of mesh) is a PET coated mesh that we sell to be used with our Digital Thermal Exposure Units. We have 4 models with the MiScreen being the entry level. The Transfer Paper is a house brand that we sell in 1000 sheet lots. You can call us to order at 1.800.597.9530. Thanks!
I also want to know what kind of press you were using because I thought I saw this guy send the shirt through a dryer under the press?? I need prices for both please
@@randallredbrother4507 Just had a customer text me last week and printed 3800 with these screens (average is 750-1000). Make sure you are not confusing the old, analog mesh for the new thermal mesh.
@@EJSVARZ we have several customers who make thermal screens for screen printers, just call our office and we can help you find someone who will make you one.
Hi Ahuja, Thank you for your question! You can use the frames for another image but the mesh is only good for 1 image. But it is inexpensive and quick to make!
no offense to orig video, but some of this isnt my experience. 30 yrs, my own shop and working at a few others... the after-spray-stain has been a bane to my existence and ive never heard of it being avoidable (though if you have a vaccuum stand to spray into that can work i think, but those are $$$) im here cuz i dropped a glob on a hoodie, and i have a big old stain after gunning it out (dammit!!) 1 - before you cure it, a lot can maybe be removed with packing tape blotted repeatedly on the ink, sometimes this is all i need. 2 - some spray out fluids stain more than others - i use the Albatross brand but it can still happen 3 - washing the garment rarely gets out the stain that might be left behind... sometimes gunning it repeatedly can do it...
Hi Rob, Good to hear from you and no offense taken. We have a lot of customers that use your method of tape blotting the ink up. And I agree that if you have a large amount of ink you need to get the bulk of it off first or you will just have a big mess. Jared's video was more for the inevitable thumbprint on the collar or sleeve or pinhole removal. We use Tekmar (TS-3) here and what we see is that most spot cleaning fluids are pretty much the same mix of dry cleaning fluid and the spotting is due more to the material of the garment (tri blends are an absolute crap shoot). With the exhaust vent it quickly dries the high solvent spot remover so you can see if a stain remains. But after that it is exactly what you say... sometimes you can blast it and dilute it out and sometimes it is simply done for. It is a huge labor but I have had OxyClean to get it out of some garments. But if it has Lycra or Spandex in it then there is usually no help.
I see that you used the frame with pin that connect to the screen. Could you replicate the 4 color with that registration taking the screens to a traditional press?
Hi JohnnyG, That is a great questions that I do not have an answer for. Being up for 10 years most certainly generated some comments and comments are not turned off. The only thing I can thing of is that the gentleman in the video does not work here anymore and maybe any comments towards him, about him, etc were deleted.
What if you are printing both solids sharp vector shapes & fonts and halftones in he same design what option is available? Or the vector shapes/design would be printed in halftone?
Great question! You have 2 options. 1). The Riso Rip is always looking for shades so you can use Grain Touch (Vector) and the Riso will automatically convert the grayscale to halftone. 2). You put the raster image on one page and the vector image on another page. Burn either the Raster image first or the Vector image, then without moving the screen burn the other. I prefer the second method.
