This is a woodworking channel that dabbles in other hobbies as well. My videos showcase tools, tips, and techniques that I use to make my work more efficient and fun! I also make videos of my other interests such as gunsmithing, kayaking, welding, and other hobbies.
Drying time varies depending on wood type and diameter of the stump and thickness of the cut. Stumps of this size would take a few years to completely dry out. I did not wait that long. In fact, a couple of these stumps were still green when I worked on them. Sealing a green log with some sort of finish whether it is a polyurethane or epoxy can lead to some good and some bad consequences. The good is that the stump will continue to dry out more slowly over time. This usually helps prevent cracking or checking of the wood. The downside is that the moisture trapped inside the stump will eventually ruin your finish as it works its way out of the wood. I try to mitigate this by leaving the underside of the stump unfinished and attaching feet to the underside to allow for airflow. If you try to dry your stump before finishing, expect to experience some heavy cracking which, if filled properly, can be a feature. You also should expect several years of drying time. Rule of thumb is 1 year per inch of thickness, but that is for hardwoods. Softer woods like pine and poplar dry out much quicker. I hope this information is helpful and good luck!
Looks beautiful!! I love the wood glass cover thing. I just found one of these on Facebook also and I am going to turn it into a vapor honing cabinet. Before I do that I might do the upgrades that you did first.. Thanks for sharing this great build...
no matter what i try, I cant seem to get this stuff to polish like it did in your video. Ive tried airbrushing the 99% alcohol, dipping in the alcohol, brushing the alcohol… nothing. surface is still rough. Any ideas?
@@SouthpawWorkshop I used .1 layer height, and Yousu black PVB (just like yours.) I used 99% IPA. I tried brushing, spraying, dipping... nothing seems to work.
You Scored A One. Delta's A Good Bandsaw. I Bought Me A 9 Inch Ryobi Bandsaw Havent Unboxed It Yet. But When I Do I Just Hope It Has All The Parts That Came With It.
This is a lot like working on a bicycle. When you're turning something and it wants to turn as you tighten it (happens a ton with brake pads), there's an art to twisting it the wrong way just enough to twist it into place before friction locks it down perfectly center (re: the blade guide tolerance issue).
I just made my own G10 bed a couple weeks ago. To avoid using clamps, I glued the G10 to a PEI textured steel sheet using high temperature resistant epoxy you can get for $10. Set the G10 on something flat, add glue, add spring steel and lastly add weights on top. Worked like a charm! I bet you could cut some thin mild steel with your laser to match the contour of your bed and glue it. :)
Nice job by explaining the G10, i love your video and the time you spend on it to test it out. i do wonder what power the laser had that you was using. was it 10W ? 20W ? 30W ? if you do not mind, can you try to figure out what kind of G10 you used ? there are lots of different kinds so lots of confusion :( and before asking, no, not all G10 is the same. if i can also give you some advice, add some protection to the wipe area as i am certain your nozzle is worn out after a few prints. ( took me 4 prints to wear out the nozzle .. G10 is extreme abrasive xD) Keep up the good work :D
This was so very informative. I paid 75 for mine. Sadly I had no idea how the inner workings of a bandsaw worked. I just turned it on and went. Until the band broke the other day. So I will tend to the task with the blade replacement with so much more information. Thank you for you have made my day.
Great idea, I might try mounting the unistrut upside down with the nuts inside. That way, I would have a larger surface area on the wood panel and reduce denting. Also on the panel tightening bolt, I want to try putting a 10-32 bolt or threaded rod through a hole to use as a T handle. A couple of cap nuts would finish the handle. That way I don’t put too much pressure on the panel by using a drill or impact. Again, great idea!
Hmmm , i'd seen a competitors pistol-welder AD a month ago & wondered if this style was a gimmick or a stroke of _ergonomic_ or *situational-peculiarity* genius. Just previously watched your RANGER Rear Window vid , browsed your channel page , & watched THIS. SUBSCRIBED 👏 !! Like your style ( the welds : not so much😱 ! ) 😉 😂 😊 🤷♂️ Your honest , to the point manner is refreshing. I hope you accumulate good sponsors & lots of subs 👍
EXTREMELY WELL DETAILED 👍 ; don't worry about the length. Every second of YOUR vid was worth it , & without useless jibber jabbering ( done by some just to stretch the video to the supposedly "golden" 10minute+ mark )🙁 YOUR words had VALUE , & the camera views were mostly on-target. As far as i'm concerned , your QUALITY is in the TOP 3% 👏 🔧💪 . ( not trying to throw shade on 80%+ of the DIY vids out there , but MOST need more actual EDITing than they're given. It sure looks like you took some _extra_ time to make your work *WATCHABLE* , informative without fluff ) 🏆
hi, just bought a similar bandsaw and this video was very helpful as the bandsaw experience is new to me. Enjoyed and found this to be very useful. I'm going to make some jigs to help with bowl blanks and may be pur out a video! Thanks.
Weird that light poles, trees, powerlines and other wood items in a vertical orientation don't warp or bend, even under load. Doubt vertical storage will make any real difference in that regard.
Hi Thomas, I’m Juan Barrada, the designer of the original blast gate you’ve modified. I think you did a great video and I’m happy my design works for you. I’d have love to hear my name in your video but I appreciate you mentioned was a remix from a different designer. A direct link to the original part could’ve been also very productive as people’s feedback is a great way to improve the design. Anyway, great job and you have a new subscriber here! All the best!!!
I suggest watching this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nnm6CoiaU4E.htmlsi=ZkENBRI4XBmfH3h5 Alex Snodgrass is the leading authority on how to properly set up and adjust a bandsaw. If this method doesn’t work, you may be dealing with a warped bandsaw frame.
Alternatives should should always be considered, but I think you made a good decision. I’ve also seen another idea on RU-vid, where a handle lifts the dust separator, allowing the “dust bin” to be removed or returned. If you are interested, see “Went with Plastic Barrels…” by Unemployed Redneck Hillbilly Creations (aka UHRC) or “Oneida Super Dust Deputy Unboxing…” by Christcross Crafts. Interesting solution! Thanks for sharing with us! Best wishes and stay safe!
