Very simple and easy. At least you're bolt is on the outside. On Peterbilt 379 this bolt is on the inside of frame and your fuel transfer pump is in the way of getting to it😂😂😂
Just that easy Love the video an very informative...I just bought a 1989 Ford 150 van with a 302...my van has soo much play this will be my first step..
I have a 2023 volvo, but mine isn't using coolant not sure whats going, motor isn't acting weird no leaks anywhere. I use to put coolant in it every other day buts it's been almost two weeks since I had to put any in it. Last time that happened I was in a Freightliner and it started coming inside the cab of the truck, but it was leaking
you can also check the air compressor head gasket because when it leaks air will goes to your cooling system and it will push coolant out of your reservoir and it can also cuase overheat
becuase the air compressor is liquid cooled the air can leak and it mix to the cooling system i have the same problem days ago since i dont have the compressor head gasket i end up re-route the cooling lines of the air compressor so the bubbles will go straight to the coolant reservoir.
My Mechanic told me it could be the head gasket but when I did according to your Video I didn't have to add although when I start the truck I see the level below minimum but when it worms up the level goes back to above minimum My Question is will I damaged anything else in the Engine if I keep going like this ? Please Reply
Thank you, woke up in WY with my truck beeping loud, (Low Antifreeze level) msg on dash, I filled it up MAX and after one hour of driving error msgs again and very low Antifreeze, going to try this method
Great video, thanks! Pro tip: people watching this might need some penetrating oil on that screw and nut. The best penetrating oil that won a shootout on RU-vid is called Deep Creep by Sea Foam. Squirt some of that on the nut and screw and wait 5 minutes or so. Then take a large flat-head screwdriver and a wrench and loosen the nut on the screw, while you hold the screw in place with the screwdriver. Set the screw where you want it to adjust free play like in the video. Then hold the screw in place again with one hand and tighten the nut with the other hand, which locks the screw in place real nice. That penetrating oil also greatly helps to prevent further rust from building up.
This is best review of a Volvo D13 I've ever seen. Being that Volvo puts out a lot of major machinery from excavators to Prevost busses, it gives me hope if I ever consider living with one of these machines the Volvo engine might not be the life changing detriment it has been portrayed. Those issues for a Volvo D13 with 3/4 of million miles are fairly minor. I'd expect to change all the belts, hoses, and water pump during a major service way before this many miles. The stories I've heard is the Volvo D13 after 200,000 miles starts to have nitpicking reliability issues with sensors and wiring harness that frequently takes it off the road with significant wait times on parts. The other issue is its lower fuel millage compared to a Detroit Diesel DD13 and Paccar MX13. The DD13 is at the top of reliability with reasonably fast parts availability. The stories on MX13 is it can start having issues from day one, has many issues after 200,000 miles and major issues after 400,000 miles with long wait times on parts and few people that know the engine. The Cummins X15 maybe the most liked engine with best drivability, good reliability, high service availability, fast parts availability (pricey), but not a standout in fuel millage, but better than the Volvo D13.
We have 2 Volvo 2011 D13 I-Shift. All Volvo Dealers don’t know how to fix these Trucks. All Volvo Dealer‘s highway robbery. These two Volvo trucks we have had the Radiator changed on them a few times. After a while I noticed the transmission was giving me problems. I went under the truck and I looked at the site glass on the side of the transmission passenger side. The fluid was low. The hoses on the transmission nowhere was any leaks. I kept thinking why would our trucks not have transmission fluid or below the level line. Then it hit me!!! We had the radiators changed on these trucks both of them. The mechanic that changed the radiator Never bothered to replace the transmission oil back to a Transmisión. There’s two lines that run from the transmission to bottom of the radiator and sends it back to the transmission. Why would these mechanics not top of the fluid back to the Transmisión. Why would they? Their job was specifically the radiator. My question is why didn’t his mechanics notify us that when they took off the radiator transmission fluid was in the radiator housing or bottom part of the radiator and when they replaced, it it leaked out which leaves the transmission under the level line. I’m wondering if this happened to the 2016 Volvo in this video ever had the radiator changed. All transmissions have their transmission fluid cooled by the radiator.
Hey driver, I have the same issues & codes & my truck was stuck on 5 miles per hour the other night. New O/O here would appreciate your feedback. Mine is 2016 Volvo automatic ishift also
Hey i have the same problem. I replaced the compressor, my egr cooler is deleted, i took the head out i had 1 cup leaking so I replaced them all, placed everything back and i still have the same problem. Anyone can help please?
Wherever the shaft the pitman arm goes onto, that shaft goes through the gearbox, and on the otherside is your adjuster. Freightliner is on the inside, there's a hole in the frame.
