So many awesome things to see with a drone. Its a great piece of technology. I live on Lake Superior, there is so much to do and see. I'll share with you a view from a little higher up. Come see some of The Great Lakes Shipping Fleet. This view that you can’t get with a camera at ground level. Enjoy!
Come see what its like in Minnesota. What we all go through to live in the winter months. Be it removing snow from a roof to driving a car in crazy weather.
Hello, thank you for the super informative vid!! Is there any good way to confirm that it’s the blower motor as opposed to a blown fuse or a short before buying the new blower motor and testing it? My 2021 Crosstrek sport has stopped blowing any air on any setting. Went out once randomly during a drive but it kicked back on within 10 mins, then suddenly this past weekend it has stopped working in general except for one random morning I was able to get a little airflow
Yes @LukeCannon-j6z in most cases it is there. It's possible if it isn't there it might have been removed from someone else. The only reason(s) I can think of is a flood-damaged car might have it removed. Sorta hard to wash it clean. Or some critters got into the car and nested in it.
Thank you for the excellent video. I replaced both the resistor and the blower motor at the same time since I wasn't sure which was the problem. Both parts looked a little gross (condensation damage?). In any case, guess what? It works! Thank you so much!
I been looking for 2 hours on where the interior lights fuse was at, I got an impreza and it was a little different, it was in the interior but only video that helped me locate it and that the car comes with spares. Thank you!!!!!
Alcohol wipes are the best alternative suggestion ive heard, thank you! i went ahead and cleaned the housing as well, as I've had my passenger side light burn out 4x as often as the driver's side.
Thank you soo much for this video I just went to my local autozone, the blower motor fan and changed it out in the parking lot! Took about 20 mins due to the wire position of the other bolt
Really excellent video, Ian. You are an excellent communicator, and have a wonderful, genuine, relaxed, and very real demeanor. Your camera work was excellent.
Great video! Dealershipquoted $265 for the motor, and I'm sure it would have been hundreds for labour. I ordered the motor off the internet for $90. Thanks!
THE best how-to video I’ve seen yet! Clear, concise, and easy to understand! I have a 2018 Impreza with 120k miles on it and have had to replace the motor once already. Right now, we’re in a heat wave with temps running around 115° to 120°+ during the day. My fan stopped working which means, yes folks, NO A/C! No bueno and not pretty showing up soaked with sweat. The first time I changed the fan blower it cost $200. This time they wanted $225 to replace some sensor and to replace the blower ($450!). That’s not happening and they lost a customer for good. I bought the replacement from AutoZone for $110 and will be replacing it myself - thanks to this video! I will definitely subscribe to his channel! THE BEST VIDEO EVER!
Thank You @michaelmcfarland7429 I'm glad to help out fellow owners. Dealer and shop rates are ridiculous. I know anyone can do this motor swap. All they have to do is watch the video and follow along. I won't leave steps out and keep anyone guessing what to do next. @michaelmcfarland7429 I'm glad you found this video and saved yourself a bunch of $$$. Thanks for watching!
Hello. I forgot to mention on my first message that the constant power flow..is from the master window switch drawing power. To pass through without relay protection. BIU internally shorted. Subaru is saying I need I need a joint box assy.. $1,500
This must be parts and labor? The joint box assy is $470-525 for the part. $1000 for labor? Damn. There are many connection to remove and transfer over from old to new. Maybe a new relay or two. At least if Subaru is replacing it you have piece of mind.
Hi. I saw your video. I'm hoping you can help me. I took my 2018 crosstalk to check for a DCM issue draining my battery. Subaru of America sent me an extended warranty letter letting me know that if Subaru finds that my battery is being drained bc of a DCM issue my vehicle is coveted. However, Subaru tech called me and said that I did not have a DCM issue but that they detected an ongoing energy flow. And that I now need to replace rhe fuse box... they also mentioned a joint box? $1,500. My fog passenger light at one needed replacing bc it went out. Then my shifter light isn't working ..the stick shift area. My car is automatic. Then my front lighter doesn't work. I asked if it could be my fuses....they said my fuse box needed replacing But the functions for the fuse box is long including the DCM. And many functions of my vehicle that are still working. I had 2 recalls recently done for the ignition coil and a balance bar thing which they said would stop my car from fishtailing. I mean... if my car and everything else is working, why are they saying I need to replace the entire fuse box? Is that necessary? Thank you in advance for any suggestions. I had no one else to ask.
This was the best video out of the five I came across. It was exactly the same scenario as my own. I didn't have to remove any of the molding as there was a port just big enough for my ham fist to fit through to reach and manipulate the resistor module. Thanks for this video!
Thanks for watching @clintmilner2365 The reason to remove all those items is more for the camera to have a shot of the work area. If I said you can do this through the access hole, some will try it that way. But removing a few extras so you can see what you are doing is also helpful. I had to film and refilm this video over three times. Lighting issues, Focus issues, Audio issues. Mind you there was nothing wrong with my resistor, But removing it and replacing it several times... well, my resistor finally broke the mounting tabs. So... I did end up having to buy a new resistor. At least if the new resistor fails at some point down the road, I can separate the housing and put my old resistor (that's still good) back in its place. I do appreciate all of you and your comments. I'm glad to have helped so many of you save some $$$.
I just tried this and it didn’t fix the problem :/I have a 13 trek with manual a/c. Fan speed 1 does not work but 2,3,4 work. I checked fuses inside and they are fine. Any other suggestions? Thanks!
@@IamWedgethanks for the reply. I checked it today and the pigtail coming out the dash was burnt where the pin for speed 1 and the knob as well. Is it easy to replace the pig tail? It goes back to the dash and is wrapping in electrical tape. Not sure if that needs to replace and the switch for speed knob too. All other speeds are working fine so I might just leave it if it’s too much trouble.
@@schecter7x Pigtails are really easy to replace. The new pigtail comes with a length of wire. Just don't cut too much of the old out. I would solder the new connections. Black tape is fine... I prefer electrical shrink tubes. If you are comfortable replacing the fan speed selector, go for it!
Thanks for this video. I'm having the same noise from the fan motor. Wasn't sure if it was a damper or not. But your description supports what I suspected. Thanks for the content. I appreciate it.
A Premium Crosstrek in most cases have a manual system. A Limited Crosstrek has an automatic. Look at this google search. www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-e&q=2014+Subaru+Crosstrek+blower+resistor You will see two different types of resistors. One is thin and small, (Manual), the other thick and bulky (Automatic)
You seriously just saved us $700 which is what the Subaru dealer was going to charge just for labor! Got the parts and doing this tomorrow. You da Man!!! Edit: I just changed it myself and it works great. Air cabin filter was filthy 😂
I just want to say thank you. I replaced ALL of the lights on my vehicle (interior and exterior) with LEDs. You explained how to do it just like my dad would have. You’ve earned this sub.
Hi there, can you help me with a question? I have a 2016 Subaru outback. My air flow is weak and I hear a knocking under the glove box. It occasionally has a little kick of energy and blows a little harder every 10 seconds or so. Still cool air. But, when it’s dark/cooler outside the ac works perfectly fine and blows hard. And no knocking noise. Why is it only affected in the heat? Something electrical? I tried to check the fuse but I am unable to get them out. Cabin air filter is new and clean. I figured it was the blower motor, but I just don’t understand why it’s only malfunctioning in the heat. I felt around in the blows motor when I took the filter out, no debris. Actuator symptoms don’t fit here, the temp is fine and both sides work fine when it’s cool outside. And no clicking . Blower motor resistor could be it, but I am just not sure.
Sounds like the blower motor is going. Your motor will run better at night when it is cooler out. When you are in heat of the day. Everything expands. The knocking is the blower tapping on the side walls of the blower compartment. When you have that cabin air filter out (and the motor off) reach in there and see how much movement there is side to side.
@@IamWedge Thank you so much for replying! I went ahead and replaced the motor myself and it's all good so far. It was a little difficult, but I did it! :)
Thanks for this informative video. Does yhis same resistor control the temperature as well? I have issue where air only comes out as if its on the highest setting and also aot ismy cold/cool unless its on LO.
You totally lost me on the fuse box. I wish you could explain this as if you were talking to a 5 yr old girl. Are you supposed to have one of those hand held meters before beginning? What about the fuse, the extra one that you explained that is supposed to go in the fuse connector, do I need to purchase that separately? Are you supposed to remove the fuse that’s already there in the fuse compartment? So many unanswered questions. And what’s the little box that you had to squeeze behind the weather stripping? Is that connected to the wiring that comes with the camera?
Thank you for making this video! It was very helpful! Though it did not fix my issue, it was empowering being able to do that myself. I have already watched the blower motor resistor video and will be following that to replace that hoping that is the cause of my issue.
You are welcome @claudinemozdzonek7752 I'm glad it helped you do it yourself. Do you have an update? Might have to get a meter out and see if there's power going to that motor.
I have this exact camera but have it wired into fuse that only powers camera on when i start vehicle (not constant). If i change to constant pw supply like this, and in 'parking mode' (with PM turned on in settings) will it drain my battery, or will it only power the camera when it detects movement?
If you bought Vantrue's hardwire kit it has a low voltage protection. Meaning if the battery voltage gets to low it will not power the dash cam anymore. With parking mode on it will detect motion. It can also detect impacts. Meaning if someone hits your car your cam will record that as well.
Thanks @sualocin I've seen many videos that leave steps out. I want you guys and gals to be able to fix things on your vehicles. Yes, the video is a little longer. But, you get to save on the labor costs at the shop.
