@@stjepanherceg7365 in full stack mode, I have never tried splitting the noiseless dimarzio singles

@@AndrewAHayes some peoples commented of having had a positive experience with using Paulownia as a body wood. So maybe the cheap neck that I've used was mostly to blame why the guitar took several days to stabilise after stringing it up for the first time.

I didn't do any more mods, I only tested various thin string gauges. But thinner than .008s breaks too easily. If the nut isn't slippery enough, you can try putting graphite (pencil led) into the slots. For the fretboard, you could put the usual lemon oil or similar fretboard product on. Pickups: I thought the stock pickups are alright, they're good high gain pickups. Of course, it's possible to get nicer cleans with different pickups, but since it's an unusual small guitar, it might not need pickups with a hi-fi high end, it might be too shrill.

Thank you!

@@palomatahn you can try spray painting a test piece first :)

Good idea!! I'm gonna do it!! My keyboard is so boring and black. And I'm jelly of all the guitarists with their colored gear. And I'm going to do my stand as well!! Thinking of a retro light blue 💙 😊

The time is set up to "dotted 8th note", feedback 0 (one repeat) and the delay volume all the way up (so that the delayed note is as loud as the guitar's direct signal)

thank you very much

it still looks the same. It cures really hard. Also, the guitars where I finished the neck with tru oil, which are several years old by now, are also holding up.

it'll create thinner coats that might give a glossier result. Also, when coats are too thick it can happen that it doesn't cure hard and it stays tacky. However, it'd be an option to build up some coats with undiluted tru oil, do some level sanding and just do the final coats with the diluted tru oil.

servas brah! thx for answering so quickly. I refer only to the neck where glossy might not be your best friend (friction and heat makes your hand stick amirite). the musicman process is a 1 coat simple wipe on buff off w gun stock oil, no?

@@CheckingYourRealityForYou Grias Di, I put 2 thin coats on the roasted maple neck. One might be too little and not last very long. But it's not glossy yet, that would need more coats. For non-roasted maple necks I'd do at least 8 thin coats as the wood is more thirsty. At the musicman factory they do this "wipe on, immediately wipe off the excess"-method, but surely for more than one coat.

@@lewis3418 it's called Kiesolin by Kiesow (Austria), I bought that in Europe. But I think any brand of buffing wheel compound will probably get the job done

Legend thank you!

@@scottboyett817 thanks, maybe one day when I'm professional enough

@@aristidesvillegas7167 that one supposedly has a 9.5" fretboard radius and the tune-o-matic style bridges usually always have a 12" radius. It might be possible that the current squire bridge is a radius mismatch, it just makes just a small difference in string action on the top and bottom strings

Thanks again Bro

Hi, you could put graphite from a pencil in the nut slots to make the strings glide better. Also, when I tune up, I usually wiggle the trem (slightly up and down) and then retune.

Thanks Man. Much appreciated. I used a chinese rolling bridge I purchased on Amazon. Is tonespro of Schaller the one you installed on your Wilshire? Do you think it would also determine the stability of tuning? I mean, Roller bridge quality and reliability?

@@aristidesvillegas7167 the one I've installed is made by "Boston", but it seems to be sold under various brand names. The one I have was around 30$/€, I'm talking about these in more detail in my "Jaguar Upgrades" video

Ok so it seems to he the afforfable or commodity ones. Looking for the Tonepros and Schaller those are the double in cost. Thanks again Man. Much appreciated your feedback

lmao

250k :)

same home country as Arnold :)

that's a good idea, it uses the advantage of Nitro being compatible to oil finishes.

@@mechancik87 you can try this schematic guitarelectronics.com/1-humbucker-1-volume-series-parallel/ Having 2 volumes for the parallel mode might be difficult. Maybe that's only possible with 3 volumes: a master volume and a volume for each coil

Thx Dude!

thank you so much, my friend

Several hours, but in a proper "wood torrefying" oven (high temperature, no oxygen). Sadly, my kitchen oven wasn't even large enough to fit a jaguar body :s

I think I know which bridge you mean, that sounds like a good idea. The Wilkinson bridge that I was showing in the video ended up not working well, it needs the posts at a further back location.

Which bridge did you exactly put? And did you do any more changes?

@@Chanzo__ the Wilkinson wraparound bridge ended up being the wrong choice, as it needs the bridge pins positioned further back. So I ended up recessing the bridge posts and using the original bridge. I'll show that in my next video

What do you think about the bridge @valleywoodstudio7345 is talking about? I really like this guitar (the wood) but I'm mad at the playability with the serial bridge, and the pickup is noisy for my taste so I'm trying to improve this guitar as much as it lets.

@@Chanzo__ I haven't tried the "lightning" bridge myself, so I can't comment on how well it'd work on this guitar

The keda dye set is just around 20$, but it'll last you a long time. The Tru Oil costs 12$, I think, and a spray can of satin nitro costs maybe 15$.

i asked my luthier to do the same to my harley benton pj5 but he refused cause the paint job will cost more than the value of the bass. So sad

BUT! I have to say it's personal taste. I found the roller bridge/stop tail the one that handled the frequencies better, but some will find it too muddy.

@@fbaraky660 to me the drawback is mostly the tuning stability. While not as bad as with a Bigsby, a stoptail will always be more stable than any trem system.