the module is technically a pdm, they are plug and play no programming required, you will need to find one that matches year and engine model. also in the video i show you how to test and verify the common issue with them.
@@heavydutyroadsidellc920 thank you I'm having the same kind of problem I turn the key on no starter I use my power probe on the starter it cranks but no start I checked all the fuses and all the relays everything is good I checked to make sure it wasn't the neutral safety switch I have a matco scanner Maximus 3.0 I checked the brake switch also. I have no spark no injectors
@@boostedperformance4529 pop an injector pigtail off and test for key on power to pigtail of the injector, same with a coil plug. as shown in the vid look at connectors on the module and look for a damaged wire or pin connector
@@heavydutyroadsidellc920 on the module all the pins are fine in the harness looks perfect I got an injector test kit from bluepoint I checked the coils already and there was nothing no spark
If you are still having connection issues after testing fuses at OBD port and ecm, you probably have a wire shorting in the 5v reference, this will typically cause the processor in the ecm to freeze or stop functioning. Test all sensors / unplug them that are using 5v such as TPS, MAP, CAM POS, CRANK POS, and so on. You can do it one at a time or all of them and test to see if your scanner is then communicating
@@heavydutyroadsidellc920 I’ll try that the problem has fixed itself a couple of times but will only scan for a little bit then I get an error message I’m getting power to the obd2 so I’ll start disconnecting sensors I guess
Hi there i have 1997 dakota 5.2 SLT after doing an engine gasket replacement the truck will no longer start. It does crank really strong has a new battery, new starter,new timing chain , new oil pump, all fluids new , new ignition coil, new Crank pos sensor , new pickuo coil, it does have fuel, one thing i notice now is that AFTER the rebuild with key at "ON" position the "security" light stays on now and before the rebuild it would flash and turn off I notice that alot of the injector connectors are peeled and you can see the wire but it would still run that way before I have done some tests but i am a beginner i don't know what to do anymore i am wondering if i should take it to the dealership but their prices are so high and they dont guarantee they will find the problem i know nobody can guarantee but i am lost already Let me mention one more thing, the last thing i have done is remove the distributor because i have found out today the rotor is not turning when i crank the engine i am so lost
Goodness we've been working a month trying to get our 2006 dodge dakota to start. Maybe this will finally be the end of a long and expensive repair for us, fingers crossed. Thank you for the informative video!
Hey, can you please tell me what was exactly wrong with it because I change the fuse box with the module and check all the wires change the ECM still no luck and I did program the computer. Please help me out.
in the video i show you how to trouble shoot everything, test key on power to coils and injectors. on the back of the fuse box you have a power distribution module that has its own relays inside of it to power things like the power shut off relay, coil and injector power. if you do not have exat one you need for your production year installed you will have issues. they are not all the same and they changed every 6 months for a few years. pin outs are different. so you need to verify part numbers and verify you have the proper parts for your application. i can help you a little more if you give me various information about your use case. will it crank? do you have power to injectors? is your fuel pump kicking on, are you getting power to coil? test everything.
I have #3 engine knock sensor out with no symptoms on my "08 with 188k. My brother's '10 had the same problem with only 40k on odometer, but slowly got the job done. The dealer wanted $850 without telling me only one sensor was out of 4 total. I got a wiring harness for $33.Sensors were $35 to $79 each. Mice problem also.
no, it doesnt. It is basically what the aftermarket calls a PDM. (power distribution module) just a board with built-in relays that is signaled on remotely with ECM and other input signals.
do do do do do do do do {twighlight zone}. He starts on driver's side then moves to work on passenger side and nearing completion of those steps shows driver's side which reflects that hoses removed in the beginning are now not removed.
the knock sensor is not in an oil or coolant passage. they mount to the solid block. but if you have everything else apart you might lose some coolant.
Not my call to pull the motor, customer just wanted it back together. I would have liked to pull the motor and go threw everthing but time is money and the customer was on a budget.
why would you go through all that work and not replace them both, they are for common failure. if one failed the other is soon to follow and you will be doing it again. sensor one is close to cylinder one, (front of the engine) Sensors 2 is in the rear of the engine.
What exactly was it doing while driving? Did it effect going from park to drive like harshness? Did it not go in 4th or 5th or 6th gears?? My 08 has knock sensor issues but has the symptoms I just listed..
knock sensors did not affect the harshness, more on the lines of keeping the engine running on its low octane fuel map, (less spark advance safe but down on power,) and limiting throttle actuator position and fueling strategies. Basically in limp mode, the symptoms you are having I would like more detail ( how does it feel going from neutral to drive, harshness or smooth,). (Are you seeing any other codes?) if it is not shifting into higher gears or slipping when it goes into gear ( rpm rises quickly with no noticeable vehicle mph gain) you more than likely have a transmission that is low on fluid and or hurt. Also, you need to find out if your throttle pedal in-cab and throttle body actuator on the engine is functioning properly. if either of those act up it will cause shifting harshness. Make sure the intake to the engine that has the mass airflow sensor on it is connected properly with no air leaks after the mass air flow sensor.
Great video. I’ve got a 2003 4.7 Tundra with error code P0325. I’ll bet it’s the same process. I had a damn rat in my engine. My concern is what if he chewed the wires that the sensors connect to. Where do you connect the harness. How do you connect the harness? Thanks
@@heavydutyroadsidellc920 my sensors came with the harnesses it’s not hard to figure out.if it’s rodent damage you can probably get away with just wire repair the sensors might be ok.I did the mine a year ago and now have to do it again because the rat factory/chicken farm next door
A couple of notes for those undertaking this 1. The fuel injectors and fuel rail can come off with the intake 2. There is one bolt and one nut in behind the manifold holding the harness. The intake comes loose but will not come off with these in place.
My 79 f250 with the 400 ran fine when I bought it but after having carb replaced its acting like it's out of time (timing & distributor hasn't been touched). New plugs & wires put on, you think it's a bad cap/ rotor or for a wire crossed somewhere or.....???
If you only changed the carb, and it’s not running well now, it’s the carb. Might be too small of jets in the Excelerator pump, might be too big, could have a stuck float in the carb.
@@heavydutyroadsidellc920 pulled the plugs, one wasn't gaped enough but broke when pulling it. Was told the pickup in the distributor going bad. About to go out and put in new plug (w anti seize) now and see what she does.
Depends on shop labor costs but you are looking at 400 dollars U.S. for a decent price for just labor on the low side, my shop could do it for less 275 roughly because of experience. I would say average cost is around 500-600
I had to do the same job.same year same engine.a rodent chewed the harness for the knock sensors there are two of them.it’s a four hour job at best and likely more like 6
you would think but for this truck there was not enough clearance seriously I tried that first and if you look on the book times its more extensive than what I did but the oem sensors needed to move upward and will not do so.
Corey Sharp add a relay in between the coil and battery with a 30amp fuse from the battery, using the original power to coil as a trigger wire to activate the relay. Done properly it will alleviate most of the voltage drop to the coil and reduce load to the ignition switch. Everything in that truck is powered from the ignition switch.
@@heavydutyroadsidellc920 I made a huge mistake on install. The smallest of mistakes at that. I did NOT remember to check the points gap on the brand new distributor. I toasted the points and condenser come to find out. 30 bucks later she runs like new.
Great video, It looks very intense.I have a 2008 tundra supercharged, I just got ,check engine, 4lo,vsc off and skid lights on the dash. codes read P033D(knock sensor 4 circuit high bank2) and P032D(knock sensor 3 circuit high bank 1). Is it possible both sensors died at once or could it be rodents work and where would I look for chewed up wires, everything looks fine but I can see their little imprints all over the place.Also, what is the locations of this sensors and how many are there in this truck?Thanks
@alberto same here with my 2011 Tundra. Rodent poop all over the engine. They chewed my ATV electrical. That was easy to repair, this one, I'm not sure I should even attempt to do myself. What was it at the end? Did you figure it out?
I have sane problem on my 79 f150 with the 400 no start and only 6.7 volts with ignition switch on to the coil have replaced distributor. Ignition module.condencer. and coil and no luck.. I need help this is my personal truck
