This channel is mostly just for sharing a few small projects or stuff I felt like showing off to family and a few friends. If you got as far as reading this, leave a comment on what you watched. And thanks for stopping by.
Thanks DeonBands. I am having much better luck now but learning CAM is like learning any other language. Slow and tedious without a real project to tackle.
It's because he placed the radiator in a really weird spot. But the fans are actually installed right but this spot where he placed the radiator is super weird.
@@nugget6635 it's completely incorrect. He's pushing warm air from the gpu into his cpu rad. If he makes the front 2 intake, it pulls fresh air into the cpu rad AND pushes more air over the gpu to move heat away from that so it can be exhausted up top and out the back with positive pressure. The way it is now, this gpu is starved for air in a negative pressure enviorment where the only air the gpu is getting is from the opposite side of the fans, fighting hot air and convection to travel downward and since you can only move air and not create it, the amount the front 2 can push into the cpu is limited by how much the one fan in the back can push in that doesn't get lost along the way out the top. not to mention what this is doing to the ram. I can go on if you want but he'll see massive improvements reversing the front fans.
I have never seen a drive line fail before a U-joint or carrier bolts. In fact I have never seen a drive line ever look like this even after high speed stops from a locked up differential. Those are some damned tough U-joints!
If this was around when I first started a couple years ago that would have been awesome. Or if I was just starting out and low on funds. I could never going back to a bed slinger though.
Admittedly I do get better print quality in ABS with my Ender 5 Pro mostly closed in. And now that is is on Klipper it is even better than before. But as bed slingers go this SV07 is pretty great for PLA and when I block any breeze it does ABS pretty great too. The input shaping is a huge help in that department. I got it to be a workhorse in ABS but with everything I need to do to make that work great, I should have just finished my Voron 2.4 r2 first. I am not disappointed in this printer. It has helped me learn a ton about Klipper and without it I might have struggled a few more weeks figuring Klipper out in the first place.
Sorry bud I rarely check comments on this channel. I mostly use it to show someone something more than a potato-vision text video. I have been collecting parts for decades. I got this transmission from a friend I've traded with for 25 years or so.
Try crumbled blue tape placed on the turn table to get better tracking. Don’t use auto fuse. Every time open the fuse settings use manual smallest setting, close the setting and fuse it.
This should be quite easy to scan in a few takes.... first...you will not be able to scan anything by rotating a subject by hand as you did in the 1st video. Use the turntable....that's why you got it with the scanner! Also, the dots on the turntable are quite important because they provide reference for the scanner so don't cover them. And use something black to cover the background...not white. So take the white cover off the turntable, remove the white background and use the black plastic sheet that you got with the scanner to cover the background....all the way and even underneath the turntable. Also don't use colour mode as I assume that you only what to get a 3D data of the subject. And also don't focus on the upper left section "RGB Camera". Just make sure that you slide the "brightness"-slide in the lower left section so that the subject is visible and avoid any blue or red highlights...Blue is under exposed and red is over exposed so play around with the slider to find a nice compromised setting. Then use either "Marker mode" or "Feature mode" to scan. However, marker mode only works if the scanner is able to see/detect at least 5 dots on the turn table otherwise it will loose tracking. So if marker mode does not work then use feature mode. If you also loose tracking in this mode that this means that the subject has too little features to scan. In this case you could use little items and place them around the subject to increase the features that the scanner can detect (like clay putty or little lego bricks) I noticed that you marked the subject with a pen...probably to provide more features for the scanner...but as this scanner is a depth scanner it will not do anything with these marks. Anyways....this will probably get you better results. And if not, search for revopoint on youtube, There are lots of videos to get you on the way... Happy scanning!!
I am a picky organizer, and just got started 3d printing, and it seems exceptionally difficult to keep a clean work surface. Currently trying to make myself feel better about the fact that I hit the wrong button and just ruined a 500+ gram print.
Hey man, if your not making mistakes your not really all in yet. As long as no one is getting hurt keep plowing ahead. I try not to make mistakes either but sometimes there is no better lesson. Pick yourself up, dust off, move forward.
This mower is over 10 years old but never really made good power. When I brought it home from my Dad's last summer I pulled a valve cover to set the valve lash and a bent and badly worn pushrod fell right out. Long story short, now it runs great.
The funny thing is after I mowed all week with this I discovered that the blades were upside down and that meant it was bludgeoning the grass rather than cutting it. It cuts much better with the sharp side as the leading edge.
In case you were wondering is that grass hitting the top of the hood, yes it is grass hitting the top of the hood. Maybe you have a better mower but you surely don't appreciate it as much as I appreciate this one. It never worked so hard in its life till now. I am glad I spent the time fixing it rather than buying a new one.
