BC Hobbies (formerly known as BC Shaver & Hobbies) is a hobby shop based in Victoria, BC, Canada, and established in 1952. In addition to our brick-and-mortar store, located in Hillside Mall, you can shop online at www.bchobbies.com or browse our RU-vid channel for reviews and videos about R/C vehicles, trains, model kits, and more!
2:20 So that's 3 coats of white over 2 coats of grey, and still very visibly uneven (brush strokes diagonally across really noticeable). Combined with being thinned right to the edge of usability, i'm not sure what the hype was when I got the white
I just got typoohn grom. I'm very happy with it. Watching it in a video and having it in person doesn't do it justice I really like the brushed motor and 2s battery
DCC & ITS FUNDAMENTAL TECHNICAL ISSUE. What they don't tell you, is that there is NO DCC system on the market, that can cope with any Railway using proper "Block Signalling systems" ! That's Europe, Britain and Railways influenced by British & European methods. Indeed Fleischmann (German Model Railway Manufacturer) went effectively bankrupt (20 years ago), developing DCC into a new variant, capable of coping with various "Block Signalling systems". Their new system was scorned by the large U.S Market, as the U.S. NMRA (Worlds biggest Model Railway/Railroad Society) blacked it, as they couldn't understand what it was all about. Hence NO DCC system today provides a realistic method of connecting signals to the movement of trains in line with either European "Speed Signalling systems" or British based "Geographical signalling systems". Virtually all of which require "Track Circuits", unless they are purely mechanical (Semaphore Signalling Absolute Block). Which means DCC cannot operate a proper Model Railway realistically. Not even a "Super High Speed Railway", as they use a computerised cab based "Moving Block" system such as the French TVM 460 system. The reason is that no Model Railway Manufacturer seems to employ anyone versed in the complexities of signalling. The U.S. Railroads being primarily freight hauliers, have almost abolished signalling, preferring their cheap but highly dangerous CTC (Central Traffic Control) methods. Which means the USA has more train crashes, derailments, and "Town burning" incidents in just one month than the whole of Europe in a Year. Of course in Europe there is a high percentage of passenger traffic, which means Europe operates at least 25 times more trains daily than the USA. In other words DCC is effectively only suited to U.S. Freight train model layouts using CTC. Worst of all from a cost point of view, is that DCC is astronomically expensive, and costs around 4 times more for any layout that uses TCC (Track Circuit Control). A 12v DC system that includes the necessary "Track Circuits", and does NOT require stupid expensive chips. Indeed being a DC system, you only need ONE wire for each accessory, not two or more as with DCC. With traditional DC methods you can of course use ONE COMMON (negative) RETURN wire for EVERYTHING on even a huge layout. And then one wire for each accessories positive supply. Which should reduce total wiring by around 40% over a similar DCC controlled layout. TCC TECHNICAL Track Circuits only need a piece of wire, once you understand the secret of DC (Direct Current). Which is that you can have MULTIPLE supplies from different transformer/rectifiers in one wire or rail, without getting a short circuit. As happens when using "DCC" which is a 16v AC system. Indeed using a 12v DC wiring system for a model layout allows purely DC accessories to be used, avoiding that other nasty electrical issue on layouts that use both DC & AC accessories. Which often results in spurious interference between these two systems !!!!! Chips are substituted by quality Electro Mechanical Relays with a 1 Million actuation life expectancy (such as "RS Supplies"), which is more than that for modern "chips", and about 15% of the price !!!! Track Circuits operated by the passage of trains are required for each signal section. They must as in real life be "interlocked" with each point motor and signal relating to the area of each track circuit. Indeed using this system it is also possible to add AWS (British Automatic Warning System) or similar methods as in Europe, that physically stop train drivers crashing Red signals. The movement of the model trains in addition to changing signals to red as the train passes, can also via the relay controlling the relevant track circuit/signals & points, switch off a section of track ahead of the red signal. So ensuring that until the signal clears, operators can't crash you beautiful expensive models !!!! Of course section switches & point switches will be needed. Best placed on a wooden panel diagram mimicking the track layout of your specific layout in a similar fashion to a modern Computer Signalbox. Indeed all my exhibition layouts for the last 30 years have used this system. Possibly I should add that I am a senior qualified Railway Engineer, that has worked for a number of railways around the World, in many Railway Departments !!!
I keep a paper towel handy to wipe the tips of the bottles after I’ve closed them. I do the same with regular dropper bottles - nobody likes dried paint.
at 2:20 you talk about having to thin the paint down a bit, do you mean as in doing something like base layers where it takes several layers of paint to be done and smooth? I just ordered a bunch and thats a really good tip for me, since ill be base coating in them. would using a plastic dry palette help with the water absorption issue?
Its funny to me after owning a latrax pre runner for so long and basically replacing all of the stock parts due to them breaking or just not being up to par with the brushless system I put in, and then I get the granite and out of the box it out performs the latrax, lol
the Teton was single handedly the worst rc vehicle I've ever owned, that car spent more time under tools than on the ground....you wasn't wrong about it being a good car to learn how to work on rc cars because that's nearly all I did with it. After owning a teton and an arrma id have to say your traxxas fanboy bias is showing heavily to even think the teton could hold a flame to arrma let alone a new bright from walmart lol
One of the big reasons I stay with Traxxas is because I can get parts readily without having to wait. Don’t get me wrong, I would love to get some of these mjx cars, losi, arrma, etc but I’ve just heard too many stories of people waiting weeks/months to get parts in stock only to dash online when they do immediately because if they don’t they’ll miss the opportunity again and have to go through that whole cycle over and over. Along that line, Traxxas also keeps stocking parts from older models, which I think is very cool and a lot of other companies do not do this after a car is maybe 3-4 years old.
Thanks for this review. It was very well done and complete. The video is clear, and so is your narration. I have watched many reviews on youtube, but not many were of this quality. Please keep it up! By the way... your review did convince me to buy the Atlas S4. I guess I was lucky to find one this long after it's release!!
I'm currently using the NCE Powercab and it works very well, but after reviewing the Digitrax DCS52 Zephyr Express, I must say that it has converted me and I will be swapping over to the Digitrax very soon. BTW great comparison review and greetings from Sydney Australia.
These are nice locos. I have 4 of the S-2 (retooled style). Replacing the factory speaker with a Scale Sound speaker is a good upgrade. You are right, they are beautiful models.
I burned out an HO Gordon's DC motor on a Bachmann DCC system, and it was just sitting there. Never got a chance to run it. The PowerCab does cost less, and is easier to use, when programing.
To be honest at I did not know my dcc digitrax zephyr express has that feature in it thank you for telling me about that feature of the controller I am gonna change my steam locomotive slowing down and speeding up
Always sharp and well explained. Any considerations, between NCE PowerCab and Digitraxx? which is better ? Thank you in advance. Greetings from Mexico.
Michael. Your videos and narration are epic. You take good care and be safe. I hope to see your layout up again soon with new videos and progression of what you're going to be doing! Hope to see you down the road somewhere. All my best from Saskatoon Saskatchewan.
Those prices on those trucks on the shelf behind you are out of control!! Why are those so expensive, must be a different change rate or something dang! 😮
Nice video. I don't know about the Infraction splitter, but the Felony splitter is Lexan, not plastic. Which is a good thing for flexibility. I've never driven an Infraction, but let me tell you the first upgrade i made to my Felony was removing the GP6 rear diff and input gear and dropping in a GP5 diff and input gear. Tired of paying extra for oversized Hoons. Tired of not being able to rotate my tires for even wear. Tired of not having options for different tires in the rear. Tired of paying $20 a tire for tires that last 2 runs on 4s. Now that I've got that out of my system: I love my Felony and I run GRP XM7 tires all day long, which last longer and cost much less. PS: 5:37 there is a reason the camera person is behind the driver. With battery, the Felony is around 15 pounds. Tré dangerous.
I always wanted to have a dcc locomotives but I wasn't sure if I was doing it right. By me watching your video it made it a lot easier to understand. Thanks again
Bought this set last year, it's a great start to N Scale! Plus, Kato makes sooo many accessories and add ons for their track ... You really can't go wrong! 👍
I will say i own both and the Granite Grom was my choice for best because its much more durable and a little bit faster. But to be fair the Teton drove and handled alot smoother then the Grom
