Life could be short, we should enjoy it. For that, I got this 1961 air-cooled VW Bus. And I am learning as I find and solve problems. When I was searching to buy one, I was looking around RU-vid to find the videos that could give me the experiences & feelings of driving in it. But I couldn't find many video like that. So I want to share with you some of my driving experiences, and also share what I learn from it. Please enjoy the journey with me. - Toshi Tagawa
Toshi-san, go look up cyclinder head temperature gauge. I bought this sensor that screws on, under the #3 cylinder and then goes back to a gauge for my 78 bus and when I install the rebuilt engine, I am going to add it. The video shows the installation. .. I'll see if I can email you, but I am trying to find my porsche guy from 30 years ago, he was in NJ. I had a 3 Liter installed in my 1974 Porsche 911, and he did the work. I look to local Porsche (not dealer) garages for help since they are usually very serious people who do good work. And as I drive around, I look to see garages with old cars, especially older vw's there.
@@VWBusLife don't tell anyone but it is up in my bedroom with the parts to restore my vw's. Dakota Digital for the display unit. I will see if I can find your email and use that. I have splits, bays and vanagons. Most run, well, ok, most start. LOL.
@@VWBusLife I have not yet installed it, but I bought Odyssey Series II ODYR/SLX-11-1 Cylinder Head Temperature from Dakota Digital. The sensor comes with 18 foot wires just for VW applications (engine in rear). It has a ring that goes around the spark plug in cylinder 3, and there is 2 1/4 inch temperature display I will need to mount some place. This is for my 78, not my splits, but when the splits get running, I would like to know oil pressure and temperature.
years ago, people would put a tennis ball under the pre-67 beetle, rear, deck lids for increased air flow. Since the bus had a 36, and probably only went 45 mph (70 km/hr), it probably never got that hot. Bigger engine, bigger heat load, what about an aux cooler like CB performance did for a bay window camper bus ?
Another great video Toshi!!! I've imported tô Brazil a hubcap tool like that. It was very expensive due to taxes and dolar rate, but it's very usefull. Here in Brazil we don''t have good quality clips, so, it's very common to see a hubcap flying way in the road.
I have this tool and have done this job, but since I know you make high quality videos, I had to watch and comment ! I'm thinking of buying 15" rims for my 67 bus since mine is winding out around 50 mph - a short term idea while I work on getting a freeway flyer transmission for it. Have a great weekend !
I want to know what the difference the freeway flyer transmission makes. Please let me know when you install it and drive it. Thank you for watching and leaving comment.
@@VWBusLife like you, I am learning. At Kombi's on Kelley Island, (near Sandusky Ohio), I ask the people there, how fast they drive their split, and what they have done to improve them. First is gearing. It's a definite need for mine, my bus came with over 175K miles on it ! And the transmission is making noise, so it's going to fail. I have watched Mike F N garage and others and want the 3.44 ring an dpinion and .89 4th gear. I'll let you know once I buy it and install it. It's going to be better than 45 mph !!
@@VWBusLife Yes, I'm using very small neodymium magnets that are very strong. I put a lot of them on the outside edge of the hubcap where it contacts the wheel. It's been working fine for a few years.
FYI....You need to tighten the axle nut to 250 ft lbs. if it comes loose the oring on the axle will start leaking through the axle splines. Be sure to remove the clip and get that sucker really really Tight. axle seals are a common problem.
Sparxwerks also reconditions and sells a variety of distributors for VWs. I don’t think your distributor should be that difficult to remove and install. I would suggest contacting Bill Fowler at Sparxwerks and ask his opinion. He is very knowledgeable.
Great video! So many people don't know they need to change their fuel lines every 2 years. I switched all my fuel lines to Honda Fuel Line 5.5mm Part Number 95001-55003-60m which is rated for ethanol and can last much longer than the braided German fuel line you find in most Volkswagens. I am going on 6 years with no issues, it is like a modern car now. It is a very good idea to keep your old fuel pump as a spare for road trips, and yes you really really should get the 13mm S wrench, it is very needed on our engines (especially to get the carbs off). I am also impressed with your ability to do the timing, great job. Having issues is the only way to learn, and you are becoming an expert!
Thank you very much for the tip about Honda Fuel Line. So nice to learn new things from people like you. And thank you very much for your positive comment.
There are so many Honda Fuel Hoses but not so many sellers have the exact part you mention. One on Amazon is questionable, it may be not made by Honda. I found one on eBay with Honda logo. Is this right to you? : www.ebay.com/itm/174999623283?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110025%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPOSITELISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20220405142716%26meid%3D4276946897c7446995321ea5442f40a9%26pid%3D101506%26rk%3D11%26rkt%3D25%26sd%3D203561066896%26itm%3D174999623283%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4481478%26algv%3DAlgoIndex5SimRanker%26brand%3DHonda&_trksid=p4481478.c101506.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A1749996232834276946897c7446995321ea5442f40a9%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAAA8PUN0fWkGeKRy%252FfsmLQSJIQV64UhMwoh%252BN9jaxJQiah3dLAhZ63C%252BVt3OVwCOcWWAfQ%252B6sK1B%252FYboXyfxMoksOVJGIaC8YREIfAwF7d2ZqJCyHgd2eGKYuapzdfIYjiPuwAMt4%252BRgXhlGlkx0nEAsYCJqI8M5eyxfpIrIDmAsg0V6wVzLMvLQrdl62M58NNUvf8QrsB5O17rnFX7BrSfow4vYKuwnjDBHD--vI4ZSREW3kRVmvoTmgoFH%252F%252B7esgRu6CPwY1Tk1bF12tz7VS7WDm32BeuTBRfF6i68rsm1%252FDvm4reJ8nrYAyQ9cFdMrqzZw%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A4481478&epid=5025405880&itmmeta=01J2F8QTRZRH3BG7B3QMBNK8SM
You can use the stainless steel braided fuel lines from ECS if they the correct diameter I suppose. They are also used in modern plumbing applications instead of copper pipes. They work well. Good luck. How is your heating issues going?
@@louvendran7273 Thank you very much for the info. I will research about ECS fuel line. I found something about the overheating issue. I will make a video about that soon. Thank you for watching and comment.
@@VWBusLife Thanks. I just remembered that modern cars have high pressure fuel systems as the fuel is atomised when it enters the combustion chamber as opposed to carburettors. Stainless steel braided lines might be overkill. Perhaps just a good quality braided line might work better. Also with the clamps the modern type with the "pinch type" might work better as you don't need to tighten it, as you use "special" pliers to install or remove them. They clamp automatically after you release them so you don't have to be mindful of screws falling out on removal or over tightening them bearing in mind the clamps you pointed out would negate that problem.
Sempre muito bom seus videos parabens, usamos as bombas e carburadores da Brosol aqui no Brasil são bem confiaveis , voce usou uma bomba mais antiga que pode ser trocado o diafragma , mas hoje usamos mais as bombas blindadas são muito boas , com relação a mangueiras de combustivel jogue fora essas que voce esta usando , são perigosas e causa incendio , tente achar da marca balflex são anti chama e muito resistenstes , existe muitos relatos de incendio nas kombis . forte abraço saudações do Brasil....
Thanks for the follow up video, this goes to show how the early and later versions of these axels can kind of mix people up. Glad you got it all sorted out
My 1958 T1 also has safari windows. They also leaked at first. Now I lubricate the rubbers with Vaseline and the problem is solved. Always dry the gutters around the bus after a rain shower before storing the bus inside. this prevents rust formation in the gutter. Hopefully you will enjoy driving an old bus as much as I do.
Thank you so much for the new tip! I didn't know and no one told me the Vaseline trick! I will try that next time. (But I hope I don't need to drive in the rain again.) I usually wipe and dry everything inside and out after a rain. Thank you very much for your comment and support.
I can imagine if you live somewhere where it doesn't rain much that this is not a well-known thing, where I live (the Netherlands) it rains regularly and I still want to be able to go out by bus even when the weather is less nice, otherwise it will be in the garage and that is not what the bus is for.
@@josverschuur779 Thank you for reaching out from Netherland! I didn't know you have a lot of rain there. It is not dry here on the east coast of USA like California but still have nice days. I am grateful for the weather here after hearing your comment. Thank you for watching from Europe.
I had a 1960 bus painted the same as yours, drove it to college from Santa Clara, Northern California to San Diego on a brand new Interstate's 5, only one place to get gas on over 500 miles. I had a bigger engine so i was able to do about 65, on the flats, 2nd gear over the "grapevine"
My life in USA started in CA. LA, SF Bay area in mid 1080's. I can imagine how nice it could be driving bus on California freeway down to San Diego. I like California! Thank you for your comment.
I still haven't found the cause yet. Change push rod fix problem??? I was thinking about the fuel pump also... At this point not sure what I should do.
@@VWBusLife when your engine gets hot it causes the pushrod in the fuel pump to get stuck and stops the pump from working. Check RU-vid. I’m sure someone has a video about it. I posted a video about ten years ago but it’s very low quality and I don’t think I explain the concept I just show how I changed it.
@@SanDiego_VDubLife Thank you very much. I didn't know such a thing could happen. Now I want to replace pump and push rod. I don't know how long it has been on. And the pump on my engine looks like a cheep one. Thank you for telling me.
@@VWBusLife no need to replace pushrod and pump if not needed. First check the condition of them. If it is a German part try to keep it and fix if possible. It’s not the pump that is the problem it is the fuel pump stand. The rod expands and gets stuck in the stand. I will try to find my video.
I enjoy the fact that breaking parts are problems that find solutions. I hope the videos will continue to be posted for the joy of driving a VW bus for what it is and not for the problems it may have 😊
Great job. Glad to see you learning so much. As someone pointed out you don’t have the original axles or maybe even transmission for your year bus. That is why there are some issues with correct parts. Those washers are for an earlier bus. If you get the washer for your year axles they will fit. Also they should be installed if they are designed for your transaxle. Find the part number on your transaxle to find out what year it comes from then find the correct parts for it. I would then install them and replace that bearing cover that is damaged. One last thing. That large wrench your friend used is nice bit too short to apply the proper torque. Look up the torque spec for your axle nuts and tighten. What will happen is that you will strip the splines on your axle. You may need to purchase an axle nut torque multiplier tool. You can also use an air impact wrench but you won’t know how much toque is applied unless you measure it. Dm me through my Instagram with any question at sandiego_vdublife I can also give you my phone number over there.
Great video! I hope your engine is running cooler as well - by setting the timing. Your bus has 46 mm axle nuts, unlike original which had 36mm axle nuts. Best wishes and thank you for the video 😊
Thank you. Can you please tell me how you can tell it has 46mm axle nut? I thought it was 36mm. I park my bus in a garage at my friend's house. I will check next time I see my bus. But curious how you could find that by looking at this video. Thank you again for watching and supporting.
@@VWBusLife Hello, and wanted to respond quickly. I can see the axle nut in your video and by looking when your mechanic is removing it. In general, the 36mm size has a "shoulder" where it contacts the brake drum. 46mm axle nuts don't have a "shoulder". Most likely, your bus has a complete transaxle from a 1964 through 1967 bus which use the larger axle nuts. Hope this helps you out.🙂
@@TheDasbull Thank you very much! "transaxle from a 1964 through 1967 bus" make sense when I bought brake shoes for 1961 but, it didn't fit. I realized brake on my bus was newer bus. Do you think the earlier than 1964 axle use the washer? Thank you very much.
@@VWBusLife These old VW's have usually been replaced with something different 😊. Yes, the earlier 1955 through 1963 transaxles require the washers. The engine installed in 1961 would have been 1200 cc or what is called a "40 horse." Your engine has been upgraded to a later 1600 cc (or larger). The 46 mm trans have better gear ratios for higher speed (slight 😊), and larger rear brakes. My bus is a '58 panel and lowered slightly. And to add confusion, I replaced the transaxle from a '68 VW squareback and modified the front spindles. 😊 Your bus looks great, and I look forward to seeing more of your videos!
@@TheDasbull Thank you very much for giving me great information! Previous owner said the engine is1600cc. But still my bus is the slowest car on the highway. I want to lower my bus a little bit after all the major problems are salved. Thank you very much for your help.
Fun video. Thanks for sharing. Tip, move that fuel filter out of the engine bay and install inline in fuel lines under the bus up neat rear tire. Less changes of your issue as well as less fire danger.
Thank you for the tip. I understand the danger of the fuel filter. I want to do it soon. I didn't think the filter inside of the engine bay could cause vapor locking. Does it? If so, that is another reason to move that out. Thank you for pointing out.
