The only thing that I know about the RSX is it uses a multiplex signal that comes from the ecu. The Integra's and Civic's at least the older ones that I know of uses a signal directly from the speed sensors.
Here is a link for you to do your own research. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-A0IoqoOpFOw.htmlsi=IUbm_4_JWASMTKMt I will only do this one time and I hope you have like and subscribe to the channel. Part # 91208-PPP-003
useless procedure without thermometer. you said once it reach preset degree. then couple of minutes until your headgasket fail hahaha. where thermometer? to know at which temp it work. it should open at 90 to 95 c. boiling water temp is 100c. and if it work at 100 or even 97 or 98 it is faulty also.. remember when water temp in radiator is 100 it is 105 or more in engine.
When I get some time, I will try and get a video out about the fuel pressure regulator. For the wirings its straight forward, just plug your harness into the fuel injectors. But if you want a video about the different wirings here you go. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BYOXVjDLHt0.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YYIkLTgcCUQ.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lS_9p4obSeM.html
This the same bolts for a K20 because I have the same Hasports but for a K20 not a K24. I just need what size and bolts are for the one that go through the actual motor mount
I've gone through 3 bad engines from lkq. Hondas are reliable but the cars these came in are 20 years old and have had several owners. They're cheap and easy to come but a lot of ppl don't take care of them.
You will follow the 05-06 pin layout if your running 05-06. Here is a link where I explain this. I believe it starts @ 7 mins. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BYOXVjDLHt0.html
Yo is it safe to.do.it the first way you explained just plug and play just make white wire and black wires longer to.reach the fuse box then good to go that's what I'm doing now 2000 ek hatch 05 tsx k24a2 with itbs
I would say no, the first way was just to give you an idea how the power system is setup in the Integra and OEM K series vehicles. I would not connect the 2 power cables, I would use 1 quality cable that can handle OEM spec like what I did in the video.
Yeah but my crx 1.5 is 12:5 compression i need a lot more timing so I have to notch the distributor to turn it more to get more timing and it's still not enough. The heater gets hot and they don't make aftermarket distributor for Honda crx 1.5 engines
Not sure why so many people seem to be having this issue. I just wired mine up and don’t have this at all. I used OUT5 like someone recommended here and set calibration to 1.42. It’s pretty much spot on with 0 lag. This is with a k20z3 trans in an EK. I’m no k-tuned hater but it would be ridiculous to think they made a better converter than a company that specializes in this.
I've work with the tech "they say" is expert at Dakota Digital many hours on 2 different identical unit to rule out a defected unit. Even tried all the ports, even the one you've mentioned. Even had a voltmeter hooked up while testing the unit while driving with no solutions on why it didn't work. The tech's there finally gave up on me and I still had to pay for a unit that didn't work for me, so I opted out for Ktuned and it worked right away. I would of kept using using Dakota Digital if they could of figured it out, so all I was doing is just posting my experience here.
@@ohxietviet I would of like to use the Dakota product because it does have more features but they didn't even give me a refund any of those defective units. I called Hybrid Racing and they use to have one but they discontinued because something with theirs wasn't defective. If I could of opt out of not using K-tuned, I would of.
On the k series, there are no electric power steering. I don't know if it would cause issues with a electric power steering but I wouldn't use a damaged starter harness to begin with and would replace with a good harness.
@@jsrebuilds3951 yeah running that box I don't have a swap I put a sequential gear box and the Speedo used to run of the old one so tapped into the abs sensor
@@Yuki.000 i honestly wouldn’t call it loud at all. i think of like straight pipe or open headers when it comes to loud, i’d more or less say it’s a sporty and deep tone that perfectly enhances the sound of a k motor without having to worry about bothering neighbors or cops but it’s heard desirably when u want it to. over 1k USD is a little crazy but u definitely won’t regret it in terms of long term and overall quality
@@StrikingHunter I'm haven't heard that myself but again I'm not sure myself. I'm not sure what they mean by earlier K series, I thought the K series are K series.
I don't know the answer to that but in this article they say it's possible. xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/k24-swap-ecu-and-harness-options.43605/
Yes, you can remove the whole front end support. This would require measurements and more drilling. I don't recommend cutting half the front end support as shown in most these videos out there. We were the first to show people on youtube with removing the top radiator support. We found that to be the easier way but it does require correct measurements shown in our other videos.
@@jsrebuilds3951 Are they used for the speedometer or the Hondata signal? Cause all I need is Hondata to recognize my speed. My speedometer gauge is cable driven. I'll deal with that later.
I think it does have to be done. I have a 1989 K24 CRX. My Hondata is not picking up the CSS from my 2006 Civic SI transmission. My ECM is from 2004 Type S. I'm not sure what I need to do.
@jsrebuilds3951 Now, is that for the speedometer or the Hondata signal? Cause I just need Hondata to read my speed. My actual speedometer is cable driven. I figure that out later.
@@bobbydelamar606 Oh, I forgot that CRX are cable driven. So getting the cluster to read maybe a challenge. But I think you use the CSS convertor to get a signal at least to your Hondata. If you get your Hondata to read your speed correctly, you can download the Hondata speedometer app to read as your speedometer temporary until you can figure out what to do with your dash speedometer. Check out this video here we have a Hondata app. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WB6KJqYPYM8.html
I've done it 12 volts with a CSS convertor and Hondata will read it. You don't need 5 volts but a friend of mine who is an Electrical Engineer and confirm me that the device I'm using is perfectly fine. He also mention to me it doesn't hurt to give the sensor the required 5 volts it requires. So I did it just to be on the safe side. I know there are a few people on here commenting why would you use that 12v to 5v convertor when you could tap into another source on the vehicle. True but why even bother looking for one when this device only cost me $7 for the 12v to 7v convertor. My Electrical Engineer friend says this device is perfectly fine who builds similar devices like this one.
