24:30 Close the valve on tank, then open SLOWLY. Do this several times. Many new BBQ regulator setups have a small plastic marble (intended for safety shutoff if hose breaks).
I bought two carburetors as seen above, the first one a 3/4" Ventura, it had 5 vacuum leaks, I fixed but it was to small to feed my generator! So I bought a 1" Ventura one, it only had 3 vacuum leaks, it's leaking diaphragm, which I couldn't fix! So I pulled the diaphragm/ regulator off the first carb, fastened a 3/8 copper tubing through the air cleaner to just in front of the choke butterfly & and used my original carb, So now it works great, & if the engine quits, the gas stops! I hope I don't need to use it, but in these Godless, P.C. & Woke, wacko times, I can predict the power grid going down, hopefully, the natural gas grid survives! (I love the idea propane can be stored forever!)
RU-vidr Bassguitarist1985 has several videos on LP and Nat gas conversion. One of his videos is about setting the proper mixture. If you are running too much propane (RICH) it will run HOT and possibly damage the engine. Good luck.
The problem with this is that the fuel shut off is not in sync with the generator shut down. So, if the generator is not in use you have to manually turn off the LPG, otherwise you will have an explosion or a toxic environment, not to mention a waste of gas. It will not be suitable for inverters with built-in charger for when its battery charge is depleted. How will you solve this? I think you need to purchase a real tri-fuel / dual-fuel generator.
@@stevemitz4740 So what happens to the gas line if the generator is shut down and the status of the engine vacuum is unknown; you can't say the engine is not in vacuum because there is no force from the engine (it is shut down), then the gas line is just free flowing to the carburetor, it may be small but still a gas leak. Pls. educate me.
@@jojopornebo188 Air moving acrost the venturia in the carb makes vaccum, [no air movement, no vacume] You can find all the leaks in the dipharam valve by ataching a hose to the inlet submirsing the valve in watee & blowing in the tube, I bought 2 & found leaks in both! With greas on the O-rings & teflon on the adjusting screws I stoped the leaks but coulden't get the carbuater worling right, so I McGivered it by runing a 3/8 copper tube through my original air cleaner & carb, to just in front of the choke butterfly, secured by a reworked copper to pipe compression adptor, the copper tube sticks out of the air-cleaner 2" a tube fron there to the dipharam outlet, it works fine on N.G. & gasoline! I hope that helps!
I did this conversion a few days ago & while I respect your safety conscious adaption to use the brass flared fitting ...which is 100% better ...it is totally un-necessary & many non-mechanical people cannot do this. And in my case on a 9,000 Watt Champion ...it would have interfered with the wheel. The kit I received came with an orange (gas rated?) flexible hose & two simple hose clamps. The installation took minutes & my non-mechanical wife could have done this. The Genny & propane are inside a small building with the exhaust vented out. I've never smelled any leaking gas. I'm in Canada too & although the carburetor conversion kit was from the USA, I assume it meets Canadian gas regulations.
you can safely disconnect that "pollution control device" and plug the hole in the air cleaner where it went. Probably should have done that when you first obtained the generator, as it does nothing to improve it's power or fuel efficiency, which are the only considerations that matter.
How long does a tank last? I know depending on the load matters and size of generator matters.I also know that exchange bottles have less gas..... Cost wise is it about the same or better to run propane instead of gas?
Fill every gap in that gear with JB-Weld. And rough up the surfaces if possible. Or maybe even better some type of plastic epoxy. In the hollows of the gear.
Those calculations are slightly off from what they should be but you reached the correct assumption and made a great video that is more helpful than 90% of those on here. The carb conversion vacuum actuated valve with primer is supplying fuel at 2.8-3.8 KPa (0.4-0.55 PSI) for LPG and 2.0-2.6 KPa (0.29-.38 PSI) for CNG so the regulator you're looking for is any standard 1 PSI low pressure regulator on LPG. For the fuel line it's easier to use automotive nitrile rubber fuel line to a barb x 5/8"-18 male flare fitting and the appropriate hose clamps going to your regulator hose. I had an issue where one of the carbs I received was press fit instead of threaded and the other had a thread pattern that was neither metric nor standard in size so fabricating a rated piece of hose was the best option.
Don't use the choke, you need air flow. Also, the little white button on the regulator is to allow fuel into the system when starting cold. Push it a couple of times before you pull.
Hi Mascotal, thanks for the comment. That's exactly what I was finding after using the generator. Not doing what you suggested made the generator hard to start.
Actually I see now there are those angled iron pieces going between the caps. Then does the culvert just slide over all of it? How does it stay in place? I thought i heard you mention it would be bolted to the angle iron?
@@northwoodsengineered The angle is drilled in specific locations and then bolted to culvert. It was a bit difficult installing the angle because I had to be sure the bolt holes in the angle lined up with the lower part of the culvert bellows. I clamped the angle where I wanted it in the culvert and drilled the holes through the culvert. Those holes lined up up with the lower part of the culver bellows. I had to do that by climbing inside of the culvert. Then I fed a bolt through the angle and culver from the inside of the culvert and put the nut on the outside of culvert.
It is 330 watts so about 0.1 of a ton. It is an R12 system which are have been banned in Canada for about 20 years now although there are still some old systems around that are using R12 or a drop-in replacement. This would be a similar compressor coolnfresh.com.bd/product/kulthorn-hermetic-compressor-for-fridge-capacity-275-330-watts/
hi toby!! thanks for this super helpful video. i took apart a very similar machine and have a couple questions - any chance I can contact you directly? would be happy to compensate for your time!! many thanks - aviva
might be more helpful if you showed us on the individual pieces and in focus. I'm having the exact same problem.. thanks for this, at least you steered me somewhere.
Finished watching your video. Well done. FYI, use either eBay or amazon for parts. Very inexpensive. Brushes are universal for Honda clones engines and you can buy them for $3. Carbs cost $8-20. AVR’s are $6-20 etc.
Thanks for your comment. I bought the piston head, seal and gaskets from OMB Warehouse. The cinematography is terrible I know. Did it some on an iphone 4 and some of it on an iphone 6.
Nice job. I like your method of removing rotor. Had not heard about this method before. I typically use a plastic mallet and whack the rotor multiple times to release it. Your method seems like it would be easier. Thank you.
I like the spinner. Its a shame that there no companies in America can make barrings any more, every thing is made in China I seen that barring setting there MADE IN CHINA. God Help Us! They got us where they want us! HELPLESS DEPENDING ON THEM !
