Tom Thomas analyses Fly Tying materials, often using a microscope for a detailed inspection. Performance of materials in the water is also explored to represent what the fish sees. The flies tied are practical patterns that accurately imitate insects in all life cycle stages. These flies are often improvements of existing patterns for a more realistic imitation.
Never wear gloves with rotary tools. Other than that I see this as an excellent "How To". I will add some rod tubes to my already growing inventory of fly boxes and nets.
Hello Tom, this is an excellent design and beautifully crafted setup for a portable fly tying station. I designed one that is bigger and more complex but I like many aspects of your design. I will make a fly tying station incorporating some of the elegant and simple features you have created and probably 16 x 20 inches. Thank you for your video.
Hi, great example of making a simple Matuka pattern fly. Fifty years ago I tied a few to use on the lakes in NZ as three or four would last me for a few days fishing the rainbow trout. For our fast flowing rivers using them on the swing I had to go to a more simple fly like a Wooly Bugger as I could easily loose twelve flies a day on snags, rocks and fish. Cheers mate. Harera
really well done, admire your videos. i would also like to see you put on together looking at "fly balance", and which dry fly pattererns fall to the side, and which maintain the proper upright profile.
I don't believe it... I was just hoping to find a video remotely close to a hexagonal (or octagonal) flyrod case, and here you have already made exactly what I was thinking of making myself. Even attaching the lid with a leather strap. This is perfect... thanks for saving me so much trial and error.
I just completed the glue-up of a prototype made out of cheap Home Depot common fir as a test, and it went superbly! Your tip for using zip ties for clamping was ingenious! The idea of pushing the damp rag through to clean the inner squeeze out was also a great idea. Thanks again for your help with this.
My posts are 6x6 corner posts and are 20’ tall. I’m trying to figure out how to support the roof while I repair it. It’s a big job and hard to do myself.
Tom, as I look at the plans I think that you're relying on glue for all joints except the box joints. I am anxious about this and how lasting it would be. Thanks!
I am building this for a son is into fly fishing. I am not. My question is how much of this is personal in design. Are tools identical? Do I allow him the opportunity to tailor this as he desires?
Just wanted to think you for taking the time to post this awesome video very informative and easy to follow. I have wanted to make a custom fly rod case every sense I started fly fishing, now thanks to you I know how.
Hi William, I use either the Diiachi 1870 or 1770, The one I used for the fly is a size 12 3XL JStockard Brand and bent to shape.. Thanks for watching, Tom
*THIS VIDEO IS A PERFECT EXAMPLE WHY YOU SHOULD NOT ASSUME A POST IS ROTTEN THROUGH!* This entire video was a severe waste of money, although I recognize it has personal pride value, and these posts were quite solid after 20 years. All these posts really needed was some wood petrifier, and sealing with wood epoxy...finished with some used motor oil treatment. If one really wanted to be sure the posts won't rot for 50 years...then liquid rubber instead of the motor oil & gravel drainage. *But really...just wood petrifier, epoxy, and some motor oil would give these posts another 25 years minimum. Save your money, do a core sample BEFORE deciding to waste money on unnecessary repairs.*
Outstanding! We had a similar situation with one of the posts supporting the portico over our front door; decay at the dirt line and cement about 14 inches below ground level. I had already figured out how I was going to do the repair, and then I found this video that just confirmed it was going to be a good fix. I added the extra precaution of soaking the post end in Tenino Copper Naphthenate before I attached the post base.
This is exactly the type of information I’ve been looking for. Really excellent! Unfortunately it seems beaver fur dubbing is not available in Canada. I’m going to start experimenting with dying muskrat I suppose. I worry that blending coloured fibres into the muskrat will draw water in by capillary action.
Hi Brent, I have not tried dying the aquatic animal furs. They are so dense. and getting dye into those fibers would be tough. Plus I think you'd have to bleach first. I would love to see otter in colors... but only see bleach otter available.
I USE "Kapok" supper fine .It's just as buoyant as beaver. I don't go to the expense of a 1/2 hitch tool I use an extra tip off a UV RESIN applicator bottle .Unused. You can buy them a pac of three for about $3.00.
Interesting. Just about every time I wrap two-sided hackle (which is every time), I look at the results and then back to the picture or the video and wonder why mine looks so sloppy. Of course, I knew, but haven't come across anyone doing any differently so figured it was just me. Still, I've wondered if I shouldn't be stripping one side - but when I've tried I've generally ruined the hackle. Cutting the one side never occurred to me. I may have to give it a try, so thanks.
Yeah ...thats way cool ! Im a traveling trout bum and carry my fly tying gear with me .....this would be a great kit ....thanks for the video and tip 👍🎣
Hey, I'm not getting any replies from Tom. I wonder if you can help me. My son is into fly fishing somewhat and I am not. I don't know the dimensions of some of the things that Tom has in this station. I am building this for a gift and don't want to restrict my son in what he puts in it. Any tips? Thank you ahead of time!
