Repping Your Lifestyle is Living YOUR life to the fullest! I’m Taking unique vehicles, modifying them to venture “over-land” & off road, all while testing their capabilities. Meeting new people along the trail and stunning almost everyone who watches these Trucks. Finding the limits and enjoying nature while meeting new folks sounds like an adventure. ….Welcome to Renegade Headquarters…
It had the 1” subframe drop on it already, which is the only way I was able to do it… I didn’t know that trick when filming! DEFINITELY would have made things easier! Haha
I love offroad design. Im building a 72 K20. 6 inch lift and probably 35 inch tires. So i got their steering box brace. Building old chevys is what i live for. Good work. Hogback fabrication also makes good stuff for these old trucks
Final lifted offroad Honda Ridgeline suspension and tire set up ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-99O6HlpvVHc.html This is the final set up I had with it.
Looks apocalyptic Man! Looks Sweet!! LOL I like the red striping that looks amazing!! It really looks hard core now! Great looking Truck! What's the interior look like have any Rhino lining in it? :)
Great video! Gave me some good ideas. If you have replaced your temp gauge for the engine please share that video. Out of curiosity, are you worried about the tubing going in to the firewall without a rubber grommet (cutting the line)? I will def be following ur channel. Love the truck!
I appreciate the support! I actually added a grommet when I was able to go get one after a few days. So to answer you me question, yes, I was worried about it haha.
Early in the video, you were frustrated that the door alignment wasn't perfect. I think that, even if you can't resolve those minor issues, your car will end up looking straighter than it did in the 1970s, which were not exactly a golden age of manufacturing excellence. Thank you for putting the time into restoring that MG! They are pretty cars, and we'll all be better off, in a tiny way, when there's one more of them on the road.
It’s just unnecessary strain on the brake hoses. You don’t want them to get stretched at all unnecessarily otherwise you’ll have to replace the lines sooner.
Appreciate your video… was trying to see how tough it was to get the pads in… mine were a little tough… Do your wheels sit against the lugs holding your adapter on? They make a flatter little w/ an open end so it’ll fit in that recess… so the wheel sits flat against the spacer/adapter. Be safe out there Bro & have a Blessed day
I just did mine and the nut was crazy tight and the yoke was pure hell to get off the spline. I have seen other youtube videos where they do come off much easier, kind of like your. Though I counted threads when I took mine off, when I put it back together and went for a test ride, the rear hummed like mad. I ended up taking the whole pinion section out and replaced the bearings and races and crush washer. Then I setup the preload to 30 inch pounds and put it all back together. I did check the pattern with the yellow paint and it looked good. The diff sounds good now. This rear was a mess when I got it, it had about a pint of dope in it and a axle bearing was bad. But, after much cleaning and fluid changes..its good now.
can you share links to parts to lifted your ridgeline that high up ? also what was the cost of the whole setup ? appreciate cool ride . I just bought a 2007 ridgeline plan to lift up
Alas. That music spoiled everything good about this video. How come isn't it obvious? - Ridgeline's engine sound, puddles' splashes and suspension noises are The Music here.
Hey Brady, I have been thinking doing this on my Ridgy. I was stoked to you have done this when I search youtube for 'Raptor Line.' I know it has been 2 years since you posted this video, and your truck has undergone some MAJOR changes. How has the coating held up? Has it started peeling anywhere? Any fading? Anything you would change? Thanks
Great video, thank you Renegade!!!! I just replaced my R&P with new lines and pump. I thought I could get it done in 4-5 hours. Turns out it was torcher. I dropped the frame 2-3 inches and was able to slide the old unit out but getting the lines disconnected was next to impossible. I spent hours on that. Getting the new unit in was horrible. The elbow the cylinder lines connect to were slightly higher and got hung up on the bracket and would not go in. I tried bending the bracket a bit but that didn't help. I finally grabbed my disk grinder with cutoff wheel and removed about an 1/8 inch from the bracket so it would go back in. Getting the new pressure line started was impossible. I ended up pulling the rack most of the way out, screwing the new line in (not tight) and then feeding the rack and line back into place. I tightened the pressure and return lines with a crows foot. All that took me hours too. Last problem I had (and please chime in with comments): The top mounting flange bolt came out really hard but the bottom one was easy. I discovered the bolt's threads were severely mangled. Previously I had the rack replaced by a mechanic and I think he must have cross threaded it and stripped the bolt and nut. I got a new bolt and tried everything and could not get it started and I did make sure the hole was aligned. Again, I suspect the nut is stripped. The bottom bolt went in easy. Thus, I am running with only the bottom mounting bolt on the left and the clamp over the rubber grommet on the right holding the rack in place. I'm a bit nervous, but I don't know what else to do.
Sounds like you had a hell of a time with that! Great job figuring it out. I would most definitely get another bolt in there asap. Just get a tap and rethread the hole if possible. You don’t want all that pressure on the steering components without it held it place. Best of luck and thanks for the support!
@@RenegadeHQ thanks for the response. I tried to get a tap to start too but it just spun. Think I'm going to have to spend the $$$ and get a professional to do it.
@@RenegadeHQ I'm going to tear into it again in a couple of weeks and try again with the tap. I work from home so I don't drive it far or fast, so it should be safe for the time being. I don't think I can get a drill up in there without completely taking the subframe off the truck because it is the top mount. Another option is running a smaller bolt (like a 8mm) through the hole with a nut like you suggested. That would be a last resort but it is better than nothing. Thanks for the suggestions!
I finally got back to it last weekend. I dropped the subframe and unbolted the tie rods and R&P and slid it to the left out of the way of the mount holes. I was just able to run a tap through (10mm - 1.25) on the top nut that was cross threaded. Thankfully I got both the top and bottom bolts screwed in correctly and torqued to spec (58 N-m | 5.9 kgf-m, 43 lbf-ft). I also replaced the struts and CV axles and got it aligned. It drives like new now. Thanks again @RenegadeHQ
Yes, it should. Just like mine was in the video, I suspect the electrical contacts in that sensor for the “park” position are worn out so it’s probably not sensing it’s in park to allow it to start.
