thanks, thats a japanese dip pen called maru pen

cobain semua bro wkwk, ane baru nyoba yg tachikawa sama nikko. kyknya nikko sama kyk zebra. tachikawa ada yg versi soft itu yg ane pake, enak buat tebal tipis gambar kecil, kalo gambar gede tebal tipis enak g nib. maru yg merk lain mungkin sama kyk tachikawa versi hard.

biasanya kalau tinta mengering di ujungnya jadi gt, tiap tinta abis lap pakai tisu ujung pena-nya, kalau ada yg kering celup ke air dulu. kalau pakenya sambil diteken juga cepet abis karena tinta yg keluar banyak. nyimpennya keadaan kering dan bersih biar ga karatan

@@AjiAbramArt saya sih selalu cepet KLO dipake langsung habis GK kaya orang orang yang ad divido yutub KLO dividio lama bng habisnya dan tulisan pun bagus KLO GK cepet habis

ga pernah ngitung tp sepertinya ga jauh beda sih, harganya mirip2 g-nib sama drawing pen. sama2 perlu ganti berkala juga.

ini pake winsor newton smooth surface, tp ngga tau skrg masi diproduksi apa ngga. pake kertas canson bisa jg, saya suka pake yg "c" a grain. kalo hvs emang terlalu tipis dan gaada lapisannya.

all maru nibs are made of steel. there is no nib made of polycarbonate, probably the info is wrong or its the packaging material. polycarbonate is a kind of transparent plastic. as far as i know nikko only have 1 type of maru, tachikawa have 2 type hard and soft. if you want consistent thin lines go for nikko or tachikawa hard, if you want more line variation go for tachikawa soft.

@@AjiAbramArt I just had an email exchange with Jet Pens & they confirm that both types are metal, so I ordered some. Thank you for your information, Larry. By the way, it seems that Tachikawa is the manufacturer for Nikko, Tachikawa, & Deleter, maybe Zebra as well. Did you know Zebra makes a Maru nib as well?

@@larryglatt2548 cool enjoy your pen! yes zebra makes maru too, one other japanese brand that went global is kuretake. not sure if tachikawa is the manufacturer of which brand i haven't tried the other brand.

That's bamboo holder

i still have the original, send me an email to ajiabram.art@gmail.com for inquiry

2 years late but yeah that part is pretty tricky, i just make sure the paper looks blank white in the scan and the blacks shows good enough details to my liking. i play around with level adjustment in editing program

@@AjiAbramArt no problem. Thanks for responding!

yes its a local brand, not worth buying anyway. i still use tachikawa t-77 to this day, japanese nibs are the best

if i remember correctly i did the rough sketch digitally, printed it on cartridge paper and trace it using ink on light table. for the ship/difficult part the rough sketch is too rough and hard to see with the ligh table turned on, so i use pencil to sketch a bit more detail (on the inked paper) before using ink on top with the light table off.

@@AjiAbramArt Thank you for your informative reply, very appreciated. I am now subscribed to your page.

i still do :) my maru produces thinner line than my 0.1 rotring rapidograph, i use tachikawa t77 maru. nib isn't the only factor to produce fine line, paper and ink plays a big part too. sumi 60 ink by kuretake is pretty good start, combined with smooth paper that doesn't bleed will get you a very fine line.

@@AjiAbramArt Thank you for getting back to me! So I've been looking on Amazon and other websites trying to find an online distributor here in the US, for the T77 nibs. I have found them for the UK and India. Still searching, so I will continue to use the tachikawa mapping nibs I have. I am liking it compared to using my Rapidograph pens, which are expensive and difficult to thoroughly clean without damaging. Especially the 0.13 pen! I use Higgins Black Magic and Higgins Black India ink, both pigment inks. Do you know if they work like the Sumi 60 ink? I use Bristol Strathmore 500 paper, but I also use thick cotton rag that is fibrous.

@@williamsomers1536 any maru nib should be very thin already, the difference is t77 is more flexible or softer than t99. haven't tried higgins ink as they are not available here, but pretty sure its different. i have tried two sumi ink and both are very light and leaves black thin shiny line compared to my other ink. you can try to dillute your ink with water in a small container to make it lighter. both your paper are cotton based right? i actually have tried 2 cotton based paper (rough arto and hot pressed fabriano artistico)and all my ink feather a little on them making the line thicker, idk if it because of the cotton or the sizing. my go to paper is now canson c a grain, it's not very smooth but works well with inks

yg ini beli di animaproperti bro coba cek di ig ato tokped

ahahah susah ngeluangin waktu buat rekam edit uplod bro :'D bahasa inggris biar lebih universal aja sih, kalo mau sub indo kan gampang tinggal nyalain auto translate cc

@@AjiAbramArt di tunggu vidio barunya ya bang , yang digital jga gpp 😁

probably, but what for? charcoal doesn't have any shine like graphite

@@AjiAbramArt i meant that spray claims to be used "for pastel, charcoal, and pencil".

@@n1ngie if its a matte varnish then yes, probably would do the same trick. if its a fixative then i'm not sure

@@AjiAbramArt it's fixative and it says transparent and non removable :(

@@n1ngie sure you can use it imo, those kinda sprays r probably fixatives. To prevent smudging or overtime degradation. Fixatives are very helpful, used one myself (winsor newton)

Same here, this channel definitely deserves more views/subscribers

pake scanner, grayscale 1200dpi lalu tweak level di photoshop sesuai selera. ntar saya bikin videonya kalo sempat

SL2050, the holder brand is tokyo slider

de nada, que bom que você gostou deles. sim, eu adoraria fazer mais vídeos, mas não tenho tempo para gravar o processo hoje provavelmente no futuro