Bringing history to life through scale modeling to inspire others in this great hobby. I started modeling as a kid when my uncle bought me a race car model to build. I enjoyed the process of building as it was a natural step from the legos that I built during my childhood. Now I've grown an interest in history and specifically military models. I have a passion for history and armor and I want to share that passion with all of you using my God given talents. For His Glory! If you're new to modeling or looking to get into the craft, you've come to the right place! I enjoy all types of modeling and I can guide you on this journey in one the greatest and most rewarding hobbies out there!
I recently started painting 3D sculptures, and I watched some of your videos and picked up some painting tips. Thank you very much for making this kind of content; it helps those of us who are just starting out. 😁
@@relentlesstorm I agree, because of the very narrow tip/nibs, they are very ideal for detailing, like the 1/72 Messerschmitt 109 G fuel pipe line on the starboard side of the cockpit and other such "tiny" details, even the knobs on the throttle quadrant. Carry on !! I just ordered the multi color pack and am looking so forward to using them.
Overall, you did a nice job. Although, I would recommend one tip: reference an actual playing card. The vast majority of available playing cards do not show the card suite on both sides. 'Kind of hard to play poker that way, without "showing your hand". 😁😁😁
@@jeffreywarrenpark9149 good point. Thanks. Really didn't think that way. Just wanted the ace of spades to be visible regardless of viewing angle. Looks cooler imo vs that classic card backing. Wil keep that in mind for the future
I sent this video off to AK and asked about the color match issue between the markers and paint. They did respond "Although they share a similar name, they are not related to each other and have no colour equivalence. The markers are acrylic paints while the bottles are lacquers."
@@johanmolendijk9811 yes, sadly. My understanding of RAL is that it isn't exact but more of a small range that can fit the RAL. Meaning if you bought multiple brands that state RAL ###, they would all be very similar but not exact matches
I am SO buimmed that they switched to dropper bottles. The jars are superior for re-pouring excess paint back into.And the markers feel like a complete cash grab for me. Hopefully they decide to go back to the glass jars! Not to mention those who've bought the large wooden paint crates are S.O.L
@@21EpicFail I totally understand. I will say that you can pour your paint back into the dropper bottles. The droppers aren't difficult to remove. We do also get 17ml instead of 10ml so you are getting more paint per pot. Not all bad. And you won't need pipets to get your paint out anymore. The markers definitely have a purpose but I'm disappointed the colors don't match
@@relentlesstorm AK said the Real Colors are the same formula but in new bottles. Aren't the new Real Colors thinned more? That would mean 17ml is could be the same amount as before or a little more.
Good video I purchased the both the AVF Real colour and Real Colour markers. I view it as a good investment. I have used the yellow paint marker on a 1/16th King Tiger Ammo Tip, no primer as a test and found the paint flows well adhered nicely but to get good colour took 3 coats but dries smooth.
Thanks for the detailled, honest, unsponsored review. I can't see the point of having a marker and a paint bottle from the same line of products, with the same RAL reference which actually don't look the same. Markers may be a nice addition for chipping and -touch-ups- small details , though.
@@greghouquet2646 thank you. I totally understand. I was a bit disappointed as well at the color match. I do like the markers for small details and drawing a camo pattern though so they definitely have a purpose
VERY NICE, *but*, I have to say.... Only the lower hull has the red oxide primer. The turret & much of the crew area was in fact a very light, almost WHITE, buff color....oops. Other than that, KUTGW!
@@silentumexcubitor6747 thanks. The color scheme on the inside changed depending on the year due to different reasons. My understanding is that the timeframe that this tank was built they only used the oxide primer on the entire interior and didn't paint the creme white at all
I'm glad that you did your research on the new bottles.they had many issues with the labels they lack information in safety concerns for entering different countries and so on . The glass bottles were junk they leaked they let to much air in the bottles.they we're horrible for lacquer base paints especially for AK. for all my clients work and museums projects i have only been using Ak real color paint they in my book are the best for me and my fast style of model building but paint i collect paint and weathering products also lol . i use alot of paint and i started to rebottle all my paints to Twist Off lids some people call them mustard tops and 2oz p.e.t bottles so I have about 6 glass bottles in one of my new bottles saves time and alot faster for building for me time is money im a full-time model builder so i look for shortcuts whenever I can.
@@reconmodelsvaughn469 thanks for pointing that out in my post else I would've still been thinking that the paint formula was new. The advertising and labeling is confusing but I agree that the new bottle is a vast improvement over the glass bottle. Imagine if Tamiya did the same!
Dave, great video. Just FYI, there seemed to be a persistent hum in the audio. Things have certainly moved on from my last experience with small tins from Humbrol(?) and needing to pry them open with screwdrivers, etc.
@@whya2ndaccount thanks. The hum was my resin printer in the background. I tried to drown it out with some sound editing but wasn't able to do so. I should have just paused my print while recording
@@relentlesstorm The noise wasn't overwhelming and I guess reflected a "from the workbench" presentation. Looks like lacquer and a mask will be the way to go with the Leopard.
You say that but I've still got a few airfix enamels from the 80's that are still viable . Don't get wrong .. i use ak 3rd gen but they are fine 40 years on . Great review and very helpful . Thanks . M
@@MartinSparks-ef9gr I'm just looking at a simple "one stop" solution to get back into the hobby. I have no desire or need to have 100s of shades of multiple paint types. All water based or all lacquer, or similar so when once every 2-3 months I get to paint something I don't need to try and re-learn what the hell I'm doing.
@@patrickhruby5349 thanks. The markers aren't consistent thus far but I haven't tried them all yet just those German AFV sets which I'm sure will be the most popular especially considering AK only made German tank sets. I felt silly after I learned the paint formula didn't change but it's ok because I like the RC paint and I prefer the new packaging
No worries, I just found out about the new AK paint bottles yesterday from a florymodels video. I'll definitely be getting a few of those new markers, should be good for doing tools, guns, etc. and some flat white for lettering. 👍
I'm currently working on a 3D sculpt Shadow of the Erdtree version of Radahn. After I finish it would you want the stl to print it and give it a paint?
Hello, may I know how you guess with flowers? Let's say in simple modeling, each model is accompanied by a table or list of colors for painting. But in this hobby there are no tables with colors, do you rely on your own experience? For me, as a beginner, it is very difficult to understand what colors should be used for skin tones, because each figure has its own individual skin color
Good question. Reference photos are a huge help so you know each character's color scheme. For skin tones, paint manufacturers name their paints fairly accurately so you know what the color tone is used for. Something like skin shadows or skin highlights. Reference photos are the most important piece for understanding where to paint the shadows and highlights. After that, it takes practice and experience to master the layering so you can achieve smooth and natural color transitions
@@relentlesstorm Thank you very much for your detailed answer, by reference photographs do you mean those scans that are included with the figure when you purchase it? Or is it something else. I met a person who painted a figure, he had a sheet with a figure and a color palette for it. It may make sense to search the Internet for programs to determine colors in a picture or scan. In any case, I am grateful to you for your answer, maybe you can offer your answer, your ideas about programs for recognizing shades
Id wanted to mention, or ask, in our last comms if youve seen the YT channel: 'Modelite Models & Dioramas' most >>Excellent Work(s)<<? -His latest 45 min vid/dio titled: "All Quiet In The West" (A wonderfully executed allied/axis WW1 trench, tank & infantry attack dio, involving many scratch built, heavily mod'd figures & well executed groundwork, WELL worth checking his work out. He's a kind gentleman as well.....;) Simply amazing work here man!....1/16th scales ultra-detailing opportunities @ the micro level are absolutely astounding!
Jus thought I'd add: 17:29 Tamiyas acrylic 'XF-84 'FLAT DARK IRON' is a GREAT exposed steel color, dark steel greyish-brown without a 'silvery' sheen of any sort... (TAM's XF-56 'METALLIC GREY' works well dry-brushed over the top of XF84 D.I for high wear exposed edges)... -Again, the TAM XF-56 Met-Grey dry-brushed over the top of it isnt too shiny in an unrealistic manner. I use quite a bit of the Dark-Iron in combo with the German undercoat/primer RotBraun/Red-Brown iron oxide as base coats or for chipping....;)
This ones next in my build queue w/ATAK zim set/Metal Tracks. Itll be under a 16T Fries crane getting its turret roof plate OxyAcetyline cut & replaced w/a donor roof plate, by a Schwere Panzer WerkStattCompany crew (Battle damage/partial pen to top side turret that also buckled the roof plate beyond simple/common repairs)...So as to better show the turret interior, although a bit of the inside turret walls will be lined with anti fire/slag leather sheets.... Its my 2nd stab @ such a scene, guess the 1st one was a prototype? Plus my skills have advanced quite a bit since I'd finished the 1st one.... (Been steadily working away on a Normandy '44 Panzer WerkStattCo(s) mega-dio for past 15 years now. Base prob be 5-9 foot in dimension, poss 4x8? Well see I guess?) NICE WORK here man! (RFM made a Boo-Boo with the T1's rearmost sponson ammo storage, as all the stored 88 rounds were stored facing forwards (Make such MUCH easier for the loader & crew) Oh well, if interested, if youre not familiar with already, David Byrdens 'Tiger 1 Info Site' has damn near EVERY modeling company's 1/35th Tiger 1 model kits omissions, oversight(s), miss-steps n' whoopsies. Hes got an accurate critique on nearly 60+ T1 kits, past & presently available, multiple photos, changes made from early-mid-late, explanations, & diagrams available for every issue presented.... -A Tiger 1's ADHD prone 'Rivet-Counters' dream site..;) You'd prob be interested in the two-book/volume hardcover series: "Repairing The Panzers-German Tank Maintenance In WW2" in ENG by author: Lukas Friedli ($50-55$)...Emphasis on the heavies & mediums in all manner of disrepair & re-fit. HIGHLY recommended for the armor modeler...;) Keep up tha great work dood!
That diorama sounds incredible! This hobby is so much fun and like you say, each project teaches you something and you keep getting better and better. Thanks for the information references. I am definitely going to check those out for my next Tiger interior build. I have the RFM mid Tiger with the cutaway hull and turret that I want to do. I do love book references so I'll be sure to check those out as well. Thanks!
@@relentlesstorm LOVE your work! Oh dude, its a MONSTER indeed. WELL past the point of no return here. Couldve bought another entire home @ this point!..Ha! -Over 300$K into it so far (over time), as to models, figs, buildings, paint, scratch building materials, sundry items.... -Got a FAMO here on the bench about to get wrapped up, I somehow have over 400+$'s into it all with aftermarket kits involved!?...EEK! ('Tiger Model Designs' wonderful resin 6-8 ton bilstein crane & his accessories offered for vehicle, 'Panzer-Art' FAMO front wheels & all the Wheels/Tires for the Famo's Sd.Ah.116 23 ton trailer, 'Panzer Concepts' FAMO late fender/air-tanks/wheels/track kit. 'BoldDivision' folded canvas drivers cab/tilt. the TAM FAMO also kitbashed with sub-assemblies from 'AFV Clubs' Bussing-Nag 4500A 3-ton crane truck (AFV's is an EXCELLENT, well-detailed kit BTW, you'd prob dig?)...All I can say is that Ive painted up nearly every era-appropriate 'PlusModel' accessory set they offer, many in multiples...Ha! Thank the Lord above for PlusModel. They just do >>incredible work<<...;) Prob built all models involved in dio thrice over now due to skill >> progression >> -650 1/35th figures @ last count, 1/2 of those commercial resin example$..Ive yet to even start on the base, groundwork & trees... Many tanks/vehicles under repairs & passing through, or coming from the front. Small field hospital, Nachrichten/Signals detachment, olde Roman ruins, large field officer meeting, field laundry, river & bridge. I appreciate the more mundane aspects of life behind the front, as the fiery kinetic energy of combat scenes is well nigh tough to capture in any scale (Or do correctly, although it can be done) Prob 4 PZ III's, 5+ PZ IV's, 6-8 panthers, 3 Bergepanther recovery tanks, 5 heavily mod'd FAMOS w/two trailers, 6-7 Tiger 1's, 10+ StuG III's/IV's, 6 or so Sd.Kfz 234's armored cars of all types.(Then RFM & Miniart releases NEW Sd.Kfz 234's!?..Grrr-ood thing I guess?...;) Bunch of soft skin vehicles, buses, Anti-Aircraft emplaced 88's & 20-37mm armed 1/2 tracked Sd.Kfz 7's & 8's. A TON of scratch-building (Which I LOVE doing;), all 'Hansa Systems" structure & buildings, hes got GREAT stuff BTW-'Legos' for adults;) All buildings present plumbed for lighting, etc....Plan on donating the dio to a museum when done.... The overall scene being a French mans rural countryside Gas Station, bearing his own auto/heavy truck repair shop, machine shop, foundry & auto junkyard. GREAT short term place for Germans to rent from him for a bit & set up operations due to in-place additional heavy lift gantries. Late June-Mid July 1944, somewhere between Falaise & Argentan, France.... SO Correct as to ones skill progression, even models completed just 2 short years ago dont seem to stack up quality wise against current builds, so time to re-purchase & rebuild em (Or try to repaint/jazz em up a bit if poss). This on top of modeling since I was 5 years of age (Born: 12/25/1974) Theres >always< room to get better right? STILL learning new techniques & striving to properly apply them, set new goals or way-points to meet. The reason why I love your own & others vids here on YT, being that I pick up so very much from them. For that: I thank you for your copious amounts of work invested, with not only the models themselves, but the immense amount of TIME invested in the video making editing, narration & overall vid assemblage process. Such a discipline being an entirely secondary art form in & of itself! (I'd thought about doing so, but it would suck up SO much more time than just the build process's alone! -IF I ever vid n' post examples of my work, itll be a quik n' sloppy job just showing the past n' present works. If I ever do, Ill def letcha know) Looking forward to more of your new build vids & viewing the older ones, I'd just stumbled across your YT channel today. Sub'd.... Take er easy & enjoy your Sunday & summer! ~Greets from Whidbey Island, WA, C.L.R
