Inspired by image makers around the world, Fotospeed began life manufacturing quality darkroom chemistry and specialist fine art printmaking processes. With 35 years technical experience and, as the world of traditional darkroom made way for the digital revolution, Fotospeed utilised it’s wealth of expertise and understanding of image making to engineer and develop a comprehensive range of exceptional, award winning digital inkjet papers, inks and accessories.
“Whatever your photographic requirements, let our passion for image making provide the solution.”- John Herlinger Fotospeed MD
Our upcoming video series will feature some of the worlds leading and most respected photographers talking about their work and affiliation with Fotospeed. We will also be exploring the collaboration and success of the signature range which was introduced in 2015.
just returned home from watching the tides going in and out in the Duddon Estuary...... brilliant photography/evening followed by a brilliant interview. cheers.
I'm a hobby photographer and only plan on printing a couple large prints per month, for some wall prints in my home. I'm hearing the Epson tank 8550 printers tend to clog a lot, and are more 'volume printers'. I'm considering the Canon Pro200. What printer would you recommend?
Very nice video today with Racheal really enjoyed watching it, had the pleasure of going to one of Racheal's talks in Bolton few years ago, such a pleasure to see her prints
If you want to see a noticeable difference on the synthetic dye ink (Claria Premium, Chromalife 100+, Innobella), it would take around 4 years. Edit: If you protect the photos (like framing) it would take longer to see degradation.
The bottom line is that the Canon runs more cleaning cycles as this is part of the self maintanance that the printer is designed to run, this is also more of a requirement of the thermal print head design on Canons (vs Epson which uses a non thermal design that they have patented). This is a big part of the reason why the Canon's use more ink. This becomes even more of an issue if you don't use the printer over longer periods.
I have been communicating with your team via email for over a week to resolve the issues I am having with two printers, and I have yet to receive any solution. It is absurd that a company like Epson employs such unprofessional staff who seem indifferent to resolving customer issues. As a small business, it is extremely frustrating to be in this situation because Epson fails to address these problems promptly. This has caused me to disappoint my own customers, all because of Epson's lack of competent employees who do not care about the small businesses that contribute to making Epson a successful company. I do not understand why there is no phone number to handle urgent issues like this. You used to have one, and the service was excellent. I urgently need a resolution to this matter.
I get that for some people a sharp image is the most important thing For me the beauty of an image is its imperfections. An over sharpened digital image is for me one of the worst things that could happen to an image Give me a soft image with great lighting and composition over a tack sharp boring image any day Been photographing weddings for 21 years and for the last 4 years not used any sharpening at all and they all print very well.
With great appreciation of this and other videos, and the amazing and affordable quality, that is now available, I have to disagree: The "closest one can get to a darkroom print, , still is, making a darkroom print. ;-)
I ordered this printer and from what I could take from a lot of youtubers watched and articles read, is that there is a so much headroom from improvement. The right ICC-profiles, paper choice and the mood to spend some time perfecting the settings and testing it can really bring the prints to Canon prograf P-1000 and Epson Surecolor printers which cost 2 - 5x more than the 8550. Minus the archiveability ofc. Unfortunately Epson doesn'T tell uss, in which mode how much pigment black ink is used. I think with that knowledge, profiel optimisation could return even better results.
Like the other 2 mentioned, in PS he resized the long side to 400, and it still showed Centimeters. 400 Centimeter image would fit on your table. So, what was the thinking on 400, and does it technically become a moot point, size the paper size was way smaller and PS, or driver, downsized it? You should clarify this point.
Due to the magic of video, we made the prints before we recorded with the correct settings. The Cm should have been MM in the demo completely missed this in video edit. But the finding are still valid and were made at the correct size and units. Tim
And if that’s right, that the image was made considerably larger, how does that affect the conclusions re sharpening? The measurement is in cms and he input 400!
Due to the magic of video, we made the prints before we recorded with the correct settings. The Cm should have been MM in the demo completely missed this in video edit. But the finding are still valid and were made at the correct size and units. Tim
Don't you blow up the image massively, if you change the image size from 67 to 400 centimeters? Nevertheless, I got the point: resize before sharpen. Thanks for that clear message!
Due to the magic of video, we made the prints before we recorded with the correct settings. The Cm should have been MM in the demo completely missed this in video edit. But the finding are still valid and were made at the correct size and units. Tim
Thanks. For those of us who eschew LR/PS in favor of PhotoLab (7 Elite) for RAW processing and print from Epson Print Layout (to a P900 with various types of archival paper), how would that affect workflow, especially with regard to re-sizing to fit the paper with appropriate margins for matting? Would I simply process the image to get the look I want, then simply export from PL to Nik, then to a folder from which I'd open it in Print Layout? Also, what about using Unsharp Mask in PL in addition to/instead of Nik Sharpener and Presharpener vs Output Sharpener (weirdly, the latter appears as "Sharpener Output" on the Export menu)? Also, please pass along to DxO that, as a long-time DxO user (and promoter!), on behalf of the user community, it would really be appreciated if the upgrades were less costly. Not only should you better reward loyalty, you'd get a lot less skipping/delaying of upgrades as the incremental upgrades don't represent good enough value to many users to justify the prices (and DeepPRIME XD2 should've been added to PL7 as it would be ridiculous to also get PureRaw just for that feature). Thanks for your consideration!
Hello Tim, I've just found your channel, and I'm happy of that, I find finally all the explanations I needed. So I subscribed. Just a question, however. My screen is calibrated with a Spyder X Pro, which is a very good device. I use a Canon G550 printer I've just bought, and Lightroom to adjust my photos (black and white only). If I have correctly understood your explanations, when I calibrate the screen, it permits me to see the pictures on it, following the standard chart. The printer has inside the standard chart too. So why does Lightroom proposes me the two profiles, screen and printer, in the color management of printing? Which should I choose? Shouldn't they be the same, the standard one? I hope for your answer and send you my best greetings from France. Thierry.
My iP8750 produces stunning black and white prints. I eventually found the “right” paper; used the Fujifilm Acros film simulation (plus my own recipe); did a little post work and voila! All printers have some forms of limitation. Camera sensor; lens quality; post software; quality paper and dedicated inks all influence the final product. There is also the aspect of subjectivity when judging the final print. People tend not to scrutinise a photo in terms of the media used to produce it: rather the subject being observed.
Just been doing a project for a local shop they wanted of some of the old painted buildings/ doors and windows. After watching this I decided to give the torchon ago as it seemed what I was looking for. I must say by joe it doesn't half do this style of picture justice, The texture melts into the old paints and gives the impression of being a painting as a few have already asked me if I had painted the pictures..
Hello, right now I'm struggling to find a printer that is good enough to print stickers at home and sell without them fading away.What is your best recommendation? Thank you!!
I don't think I'll be upgrading from my Pro 1000 because to be honest the longer lasting ink won't matter i'll be long dead and also the scratch resistance doesn't matter to be I print and frame all my prints for myself and clients.
Lovely tutorial, thank you! Can you use mixed media on the Hahnemuehle paper? I'd like to layer oil paints over the cyanotype. Also, how color fast is the print after toning with a tannin solution? Thanks!
Yeah--curation is hard! For me, it's the most challenging aspect of photography, and it changes depending on the context. Compiling a book is different from determining which images to display in a show (and how to arrange them). With the latter, print size, orientation, and aspect ratio are even more important, as you have more flexibility (plus lighting is a major concern that can affect printing). Always check the space before producing a bunch of prints that may be too dark, light, or on the wrong paper (plus glass vs. no glass and matting/framing options). As I'm dealing with both of these issues, it's always good to get additional perspectives, so thanks for taking the time to share your insights. In any case, I totally agree that you need actual prints to effectively see how they interact--you just can't do that as well onscreen. BtW, I also try to avoid having diagonals hitting the corners--too contrived!
@Fotospeed, hi Tim. I recently photographed for an artist painter friend of mine some of his artwork. He wants to produce fine arts prints for sale. He did send 2 of my files to a lab to print off. One with a white card (for white balance the image) included in the image and the same photo that I edited (just crop and basic adjustments like white balance and contrast only). The results were disappointing when he received the prints, when compared with the original painting. Was it not possible to print it off more accurately just using the white card for white balance, cropping and then make a print? Could you please give a reference of a good lab to produce accurate fine art prints? Thank you very much in advance.
I've spent all week trying to contact you via email and other social media platforms but still no joy so I'm trying here. Any chance you can check your customer service/sales email inboxes please?
Thank you for this. I just was wondering : The custom profile will be different for every paper you decide to print on? For example I've been challenged recently using the Fine Art Photo Rag Metallic 340 gsm from Hahnemuhle. Of course it's not a paper I will use for every print. So do you offer Custom profiles on every type of paper. Or do we have to go to the paper company to ask for their ICC on the paper we're using? But thanks again for your excellent presentation.
Are you not getting subtle little pizza wheel marks in all your prints? If you hold a light at a low angle across the page, every print I make has the marks, and in the glossy prints it makes them unusable. They are like subtle indentations.
I've got a Pro 1000 and just orddered some Canon paper pack samples but I'm definitnely going to order some fotospeed paper now too just based on this video.
Tim, very much enjoyed this talk with Alex. Being a mountain photographer myself (albeit a lot older and less fitter than Alex!) I really enjoyed hearing his way of choosing images and what would work well with his book. One thing that surprised me was the difference in toning in some of his photos from the same / nearby stance and which I would have assumed was a shift in white balance - which it seems was not tweaked. What would be interesting to match both your interest (promoting different papers) and Alex's (promoting his book) would be a discussion as to what paper (and why) he did eventually choose for his book. Thanks again Tim (and Alex)
Having already enjoyed Alex's video of this trip it was an extra pleasure to see these prints and to gain insight into his thought processes. These images are simply stunning! 😍👏 Thanks for sharing
Hi I use a Canon Pixma pro 100s and am having trouble getting the size of the Panoramic paper into my printer setup. It doesn't want to accept it, so I'm obviously doing something wrong. Could you give me a few pointers? I've gone into custom but no avail. Thanks Marlene
The worst decision in buying a printer last december 2023 was to buy this printer pro-200, not just becasue its imposible to print in a 8x5.5" format, but because the half of the time this printer doesnt print because... i can't find inks for it. First the bk, then the pm, then the y, this printer has been more time off than printing. And the worst part its that the cartridges are EXPENSIVE, VERY EXPENSIVE. Finally i bought a Epson L8050 ecotank and for the price of one Canon of 12.6 ml i can buy a bottle of 70 ml!! One Canon cartridge last no more than 7 days compared with the Epson that last ONE MONTH!! I'm not questoning the quality, I prefer the Canon BUT when no inks available for months and the incredibly high price, THANK YOU BUT NO THANK YOU!
Bought this printer thanks in part to this great video. I'm very happy with it! It has met my high expectations that you set with this video. I'm making tons of prints using barely any ink! I highly recommend this printer to anyone wanting to make prints for framing at home or for friends.
hello, for the adjustment of the paper, sorry it's a bit stupid but we must therefore put the paper in question I suppose? so we lose a sheet of paper? :(
I’ve got a photo booth and plan to buy a better printer for it. I’ve been researching dye sub and the Epson D570 (which looks like the D500, perhaps different model numbers in North America). Besides the Photo Booth, I’d like to offer some 4x6 prints in my photo studio. Am I correct in thinking that the 6 ink quality is better than dye sub 3 colours? I don’t mind the few extra seconds/print if the quality is better. I also would love to know approximately how many 4x6 prints would be produced by a full set of 70ml inks. With dye sub you can know exactly what you’re getting and it seems to work out to between $0.20-$0.25 Canadian per print with dye sub media. To make it comparable the 6 bottles of ink would need to print about 800 4x6’s. Which is just 2 packs of paper. I’d really love to know if it would do that many or more. If I order one today (April 30, 2024) I can save $65 CDN on the full printer/media set.
