Great vid, Xmaxx is the ultimate R/C super tough and durable, fast and powerful....i have never ruined spur or pinion WITH stock motor & ESC...im a fan of the xmaxx!!!! 💯
Rpm pins are better 3mm so you can put them in the front. Rpm wheely bar is the best ever. Rpm arms ? Your break all them and get rpm then break all them but it worst? Sound the same. Best part about rpm arms is they will go on any side. Big money saver
Haha my new 4 day old xmaxx has road rash on the case very annoyed and a slightly loose rear a arms after casing 3 turn at a bmx park think I got off light thought for the many rolls though it runs fine by far it is my favourite rc now might have to order one of the bashing bodies over to Australia once their back in stock as that would solve the issue.
The one in the background is an old ridgid stand, I forget what they're called but usually they come with the rollers on top, I believe they're called "portable work support" or something along those lines
@1.22 that's a eazy fix , infact iv done all 5 of my RC TRUCK BODIES with " Shoe Goo " " & fiber board tape " stronger than factory 🏭 to stop cracking around the XMAXX BODY ,
you notice how the metal clip grooves are thicker on the rear driveshafts as opposed to the fronts? no difference mechanically though. i swapped mine all the way around.
Is that what the new design is all about that every pre-production truck reviewer mentioned? On my kraton and outcast 4s their driveshafts look the same all around.
they're loose on everybody's who ordered one in june-july-aug. the issue should be resolved, but people been blaming plastics and all this other stuff when it was lose grub screws.
From this guy, I vám clearly see, that he enjoy every single part if this video. From recording to edit to just riding the car. Future big RU-vidr! Good luck! (not a native english speaker)
Oh yeah it happens with every car I own lol, it's fun though, I beat the crap out of my stuff so I fully expect to break them. Fixing them is half the fun!
What does this exactly fix? I have the new wide Maxx and the only steering issue I have is it’s hard to center the trim. With TSM off, and the trim adjusted if I turn right then back straight, it will start to rear right a little. Makes it very hard to control at higher speeds.
This fixes the problem with the servo saver itself, which threads into plastic. I explain it better in the video itself. For your specific problem it could be that the servo gears are worn out, or you may have something binding in your steering. This fix could help as well, but there are a few reasons you'd see something like that happening.
Great video mate! I just ordered a new X-MAXX and this video really helped me understand what i can expect to be ding in the process of having fun and breaking things! I've heard from a few people that the pinion gear definitely is a weak spot with the grub screw coming loose pretty quickly. People have been taking the grub screw out and putting some red loctite on the threads to stop it coming loose. Do you do this to yours? Cheers from Australia. Thanks for sharing mate!
Yes, adding more loctite to the pinion should help keep it from slipping. I use blue loctite because it's easier to remove than the red stuff, what I do is I let a tiny bit of loctite get onto the very end of the grubscrew, that way there is a very small amount between the motor shaft and grubscrew. Thanks for watching!
Absolutely! I haven't had the time much to do the RCs as much as I'd like (also started a motorcycle addiction this past year haha) and yes I absolutely need to get back to making videos! Thank you for watching!
Hi i m not a pro in this hobby i got some questions. I found a almost new xmaxx with some rpm upgrades and Max 6 for 850$. If i buy that do you guys think i can sell it for almost the same Price a year later ?
It's possible, depends on how you drive the thing, if you beat it up it wouldn't be worth as much but if you take care of it you can reasonably get more money out of it
Finally bit the bullet and bought myself an xmaxx last week,did the shoe goo drywall tape on the body,ordered rpm hubs/pins then went out and bashed it pretty hard stock,I couldn't believe how well it held up,my only issue was 'why didn't I buy one sooner lol' The only part you didn't mention which i think it needs is the roof skidplate,the Traxxas one that bolts through the inner roof bars,ties it all together nicely😊 I've now ordered all the other parts you've listed,so I thank you for that👍but my wallet doesn't lol 😁
Glad you're loving yours, it's a great truck! It isn't perfect and it isn't indestructible, but a few key mods make it a fantastic truck. In my opinion it's the best large scale truck on the market, it's extremely durable for its size. It's also pretty cheap to fix haha, any other large scale truck makes your wallet even more angry haha
It's a great truck, I got a little bit of everything and this has consistently been my favorite RC out there :) It ain't perfect but hey what RC is? Tinkering them is half the fun!
How tight is tight? I was tightening it but there wasn't a place it felt like it needed to stop. Figured since it's plastic it would just keep turning and turning since it'll strip? I don't have those screw with washers etc. Just tightening the stock screw
I would say tighten it down until it bottoms out, then maybe 1/4 turn, if that. Like you said it's plastic, so you do have to be careful on stripping it. As long as the rubber part on the locknut is making contact with the screw threads, it shouldn't loosen itself up.
@@crazycamkalani i launched my xmaxx 15-20meters x100 & eventually it split into two pieces with repair cost $300.. never again, even when you dont launch it the turn pipes ripp the crap out of the tyres which already have longevity issues with the foam.
Kinda old video so maybe a little late to comment lol...BUT, I purchased the Tekno / GDS gears per your video but they say do NOT use the Traxxas pin system for the mesh. Seems you have changed your gears out quite a bit so I was wondering how you go about meshing? It seems like it might be a little tricky to mesh properly on this truck without using the pin system? I haven't done it yet so no idea. And I wonder why GDS says do not using the pin system? Is it like a size thing?
@@chrisrodriguez206 WIth stock Traxxas gears that pin system is great. WIth Tekno/GDS spur they recommend you mesh it manually without the pin system. I set the pin system first for 18/50 which is the gearing I am running with a tekno pinion/gds spur and it was way too tight. So I moved the pins to 20/50 and they had too much slop, even though I think I could of ran it awhile in this setup but I wanted it tighter. So and the end of the day I removed the pins and used the paper method between the spur and pinion without the Traxxas pins...perfect mesh. It's definitely more of a pain to do since you have to hold the motor and put pressure on the pinion while you're screwing in from the bottom of the chassis but if you want the perfect mesh that's what you have to do.
@@chrisrodriguez206 Let me know how it goes. The mesh I have set perfectly so not worried about that, but I am worried under heavy bashing if the motor stays put to maintain that mesh. Because without the pins it's really relying on the bolts to keep it in place so technically it'll be a little less stable without the pins. I'm curious if it moves under heavy bashing/hits.
@@seth9145 took it out today and ran perfectly. But I too am worried about how secure it is without the pins. If down the line it comes loose, I’ll probably look into a metal motor mount that way the screws can be loctited
yeah let me spend a 1000$ on the xmaxx 8s 500$ for batteries and charger and now have to replace almost all moving parts to modify upgrade everything because the whole interior of parts are all junk what a waste of money total fricken rip off. 👎👎👎
Nothing's 100% perfect box stock, for the type of abuse my xmaxxes get it's not a crazy amount of parts. If you watched the video you'd see how little it really needs 🤷♂️ I got some cars that'll break $100+ in parts every run and my xmaxxes usually cost $10-20 depending on what I break that bash session. For the size of truck it's unbelievably reliable and cheap as hell to upkeep.
Just curious, how does this "tighten" anything? I can see it being useful if the hole the screw goes in is stripped, then you can do this to avoid replacing the part, but I don't see how it tightens it. I replaced mine with a treal servo saver anyway, but was curious just the same. I had tried adding shims to preload the spring more (about 2mm worth) and it helped the steering be a little less soft, but it was still too "wandering nomad" for my taste with 3.8" wheels/tires on it and got the treal saver which is far stiffer. Also have a better servo when the stock one dies as it likely will now since the saver is stiffer.
It doesn't need much, just keep up on maintenance and replace whatever breaks as soon as possible and you'll be amazed on how reliable it is especially for the size of truck!
What’s the silicone ear plug you speak of for the center diff. I’m picking up a Maxx today and wanna go through it and make sure I start bulletproofing it.
So hopefully you know that RC diffs are intended to use silicone oil to tune how much the diff will move for a limited-slip effect, you can buy these silicone putty earplugs to effectively "lock" up a diff because they're super thick, it drives as though the diff is locked but it can still move just a little bit for durability. If you get the right earplugs theyre made of pure silicone putty. Honestly with your Maxx you should just drive it as is, you probably won't need to upgrade much on it, it has a really good diff setup box stock
@@crazycamkalani right on, just getting back into the hobby and first Maxx. Of course I have the dreaded clicking noise (bought it used) going to be pulling the front dif tonight.
So new to this picked up a beat on Xmaxx it seems ok for the most part. Well being farm kid I went through greased the diffs with bearing grease after cleaning black stuff out... was that ok? So what will I expect might happen cause I did... nothing by the motor figured that gets hot don't need grease spraying around there. Well many things on truck were rusty so wd-40 most of it get a coat on.... check back but cool video!! Trying to order bearings now do see 👀 bearing cover bouncing on the wheel drive shaft so should replace asap where do you buy parts?
I've had the best luck with stock tires, just have to vent them properly and put some gorilla tape on the inside of the wheel so it doesn't get any water/dirt inside(thats what causes the blowouts)
