And to turn it off the CEL and flashing Cruise light hold in the cruise control button while starting up the car. At least that's how to do it with a 2005 Impreza.
It was taken to place where dangerous fluids can be safely disposed of. And the bed? 6 Torx screws and 2 guys lifting off the bed. Only 1 screw did not cooperate. This truck is a friend of a friend's, not often I get to hang out with them.
I really love my Spark ! I'm 48 and have had 24 cars over the years. And i must say i think my 2014 spark five speed is my favorite so far, Hope she last for for many more years to come. Just hit 33000 miles, not bad for a ten year old car.
The car is really not complicated, I tell me missus this: it it weren't for some of the interior bits and the snazzy exterior, this car is every bit from the 90s. I just wish the CVT was more intuitive to service.
If I have a p0420 on my 2014 crosstrek XV and what seems like a misfire only upon accelerating when at a complete stop ? I have replaced my Cat a week ago and it seems to be the same and popped up the code again.. what would be my main cause ?
Fuel, air, ignition and heat are what a modern gasoline engine needs to run correctly. At least one of those things are not in order. Start cheap/easy and work your way to more complex/expensive jobs.
Personally I wouldn't use the seafoam. Get a bottle of CRC 1tank. It has the right detergents to flush out gummy injectors. Has worked great for me in the past, although it actually hid the real issue I was having, which was bad ignition coil. But it cleaned up the injectors well enough that my misfires went away even though they were ignition coil related. weak spark + weak injectors caused misfire, which went away with clean injectors. But came back. Eventually I narrowed it down to bad ignition coil.
That right there is exactly what this channel is about! Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting! I've begun running premium fuel in the family Spark. I figured given the size of the tank, the price difference between regular fuel to premium fuel and the cost of something like Seafoam, it's cheaper and most certainly easier than using a product like Seafoam once in a while. The Spark starts better, runs better and has returned +50km range per tank.
@@NSUGS Certain gas stations actually carry premium fuel that contains the same detergent as the CRC 1Tank. It's called PEA detergent. So that's a good idea running premium! Seafoam, I don't know the full history, but I think it's more geared towards cleaning valves, and carburetors, because it has been around a long time. But specifcally aiming at fuel injectors it's best to use PEA detergent, which seafoam doesn't contain.
I had a P0420 about 2 months ago. Pulled the whole exhaust system off. Replaced both 02 sensors. Dunked the whole Cat into an ultrasonic parts cleaner for an hour at 70C . Put it all back together and it seemed to work. Today I had a misfire on cylinder 1 and 3, but I think that's an ignition issue.
I'm sorry, but I have to agree with you. Sometimes, doing a job yourself, when you don't have the experience (or tools), for the time and effort it takes (and the uncertainty about the job being done correctly), maybe a false economy, and parting with the dollars to pay a professional may be a cheaper option. And sometimes, it may be that what you are really buying is the satisfaction and learning experience from doing it yourself.
I love my RnineT, but there were certain things when replacing the gearbox that made me not like it. BMW kinda forces your hand to do things a certain way.
While I agree with your sentiment, and I too am upset almost everything that isn't bespoke or made with a conscience is considered 'throw-away'. The RnineT shares a lot of components with the DOHC and SOHC R1200 bikes. That's more than 20 years of parts! That lends itself nicely to availability, fair pricing and general knowledge pool. I wouldn't limit the upsetti spaghetti to just BMW, it is far more reaching. The RnineT and DR650 are two bikes I was considering when purchasing a new bike to replace my 2000 Suzuki GS500E, I specifically sought a 'retro' bike with a dumb-as-rocks architecture. That said, the CANbus I see being irritating to deal with in the future...in 20+ years...
This gearbox is from a 2018 BMW RnineT Urban G/S. Though the gearbox is nearly identical to 2004-2012/2013 R1200GS/GSA models. Edit: Holland, wow! Never ceases to amaze how tangible the reach of the internet can be!
I'm going to assume a mis-shift/false neutral. I have the exact moment of failure in another video. So far, only 2 broken teeth, however I can't figure out why the gearbox locks up when rotating the shafts manually. Not like I can apply much torque to twist the gears into a bind. My first thought was the shifter mechanism, but I'm really not sure now. Given the history of these R1200 gearboxes, I'm calling it a freak accident and taking my loses. I'm just as confused. Shy of pulling the shafts and inspecting the tolerances between the gears, I'm not sure what else to do.
I have not repaired the broken gearbox, no. I simply replaced the gearbox with one from a 2013 R1200GSA. At least that way, I still have a motorcycle to ride and I'm not hung up waiting for parts and the bike in a million pieces.
you mentioned the Opera 5000 - do you have any info on those units, particularly referring to calibration. the information out there is not clear and this video is the only time i have heard mention that while calibrating you are actually adjusting 'gain' and not the co reading, this makes more sense to what i experienced in the field,
The calibration adjustment method is identical between 5000 and 6000 models. As far as adjustments, you are directly adjusting the gain, and subsequently the PPM reading. The real key is to complete your calibration adjustments within the time on delay (factory set to 30s), this makes your calibrations repeatable and increases the integrity of the system. I don't have much info on Opera 5000, other than it's almost identical to Opera 6000. Opera changed to 6000 ~2015, and Belimo (Swiss) bought Opera (Canadian) in May 2021, to my knowledge, the only difference post-acquisition are the labels and serial number structure.
@@NSUGS thank you so much for your fast response, when the video was a year old I wasn't sure if you would ever look at it lol. So I had talked to Belimo and the tech there was telling me that when you calibrate the sensor it should be the top number that changes and the bottom number is like a 'life meter' and if it goes below 200 you have to replace the sensor. perhaps they should watch your video. I have at least 6 of these 5000's to calibrate the first one I tried gave me this . applied zero gas and display was 0 , apply span gas of 100 ppm CO and display was 100. t this point bottom number was something like 60 so i started to lower it ( thinking it was like a gain) and got it to 23 before the "100 ppm" on the display changed then brought it back to 100 and added a few points to the gain for cushion. when i tried the NO2 part of the sensor my span gas is 5ppm and the display climbed to 10ppm gain was displaying in the 300's i lowered it to about 20 then the display switched from 10 to 0 with no gradient. my thoughts are CO sensor OK and now reading correct and the NO2 senor is due for replacement. would you agree?
The tech you spoke to, if he was from NB, he's fantastic. A1 guy in my books. Your recollection appears to be accurate. Frankly, anything on the internet should be taken with a grain of salt. I mention this because I am no longer at the company or even feild of work. Trust tech support more than someone making videos online for fun. I was a factory trained Opera tech, but as you mentioned, it's been a year and some since making the video and almost as long since I worked in that profession. As far as quick replies, I am currently under 200 subscribers, it's kinda quiet a lot of the time lol. I'm glad I could be of help and a source of commentary.
They are tons of fun, economical and a love letter to people who need a small car and want something new-ish. I don't see anyone else offering anything similar, even GM, the Spark discontinued in 2022.
I'll try that next time, Thank you! This coming weekend I'm replacing the gearbox in my motorcycle, then next weekend is Spark service extravaganza: Headlights, oil change, engine air filter, cabin air filter and sparkplugs!
Agreed, but with unknown history and clear neglect fom previous owners, it often doesn't hurt to ignite the parts canon. The key take away is to start trying with simple and cheap solutions, working to more complex and expensive solutions. Thank for for the feedback, I no longer own a subaru currently, but similar content will be a staple of this channel.
I used to have 2010 Chevy Aveo which is essentially the same as the spark. Had it for a year and the car had electrical gremlins because they're rebranded Daewoo cars. Ended up trading it in for a Suzuki sx4 hatchback with a stick shift.
I predict that in 2 years, there will be a tone of these available as 'USED" for an ok price. Just like yhe G wagon, many fancy moms will buy these only to realize that they are offroad vehicles that arent really comfortable as daily drivers. I will pick mine up for $60k witj 20k miles lol. Give it 2 years and watch.
I think they're real cool, but if I were to do actual offroading in NA, I'd look for a Jeep TJ. Parts availability, ease of work and general ubiquity can't be beat. Maybe once a firm dealership network is established, an Ineos might make sense, but that's at least a decade away.
Yes, however it really should be complemented by lower footpeg/controls brackets. Unfortunately options are limited for Scrambler/UGS models as far as lowering the footpegs/controls
I was under the impression that part was only fit for non-scrambler/UGS models. I would be curious why those lowering brackets wouldn't work for a scrambler or UGS model.
Thanks for your videos man, greatly appreciated. I’m $1600 USD deep in a 2009 Impreza (mechanic needs a new boat maybe ?) and they’ve yet to address the CEL/TCS/Cruise lights with codes P0420 and C0057. I’m going to have a go at your list. Cheers and thanks for documenting all of this.
Keep in mind, boxers like to scuff pistons and burn oil, certainly an economy car with a boxer is no exception. Ask any Porsche boxer engine enthusiast, BMW boxer enthusiast and obviously a Subaru enthusiast. I mention this because while yes, replacing parts can help, if there's a preexisting issue with oil consumption, your car will eventually always have a P0420 due to a clogged cat or fouled sensor(s). I cleared my P0420 with new OE Denso O2 sensors and a cheap cat/header and the code went away for a few months at best. Take this video with a grain of salt, but by all means, give 'er a go, you have my blessing. But don't loose sight of the bigger picture!
@@NSUGS what would the preexisting oil consumption be caused by? Mechanic said it was timing belt or plugs, so they did that whole process and the light came back on immediately after I left the shop, next day they said it needed plug wires and an oil change, (don’t know why that wasn’t done with timing belt but.. light came right back on. I’m at my wits end and have dumped 2k into it this week. I’d be really pissed if the answer was to replace the engine or deal with not having traction control and cruise control.
Oil consumption in a boxer typically comes from piston skirt wear, it's just inherent with the design, gravity isn't helping. If you're keen with tools, the list on the video is really not hard to do yourself. You could try O2 plug extensions, I have no experience so can't recommend anything. But if you're at your wits end, you have nothing to lose. Use quality parts otherwise. Sorry I don't have much else to offer. Any questions, feel free to reach out.
Edit: timing belt replacement really won't have any noticeable effect on how the car burns fuel which is where a P0420 comes from. Start with cheap and easy parts, work your way more complex and more expensive parts unless it's obvious.
They're about 6", a bit longer than they need to be, but functional nonetheless If you're so inclined, you could even make your own heavy duty versions with fine strand, heavy gauge wire and copper pipe, but not for the same price. But would likely last heaps longer. Everything in life is a compromise
Agreed, keep in mind the kit is for the WRX: a 16mm bar. The STi was 19mm. Still, a fantastic value. Thank you for watching and big thumbs up for commenting! Edited: grammar
This sucks an insurmountable amount of donkey wang. The only benefit is at least I have the flexibility of what transmission I can get...an R1200GSA 'box is surely what tickles my fancy
Canada has a very high cost of living currently, so fun money is basically non-existent. I have found two shops, each with a used transmission that I'd be happy to use. However they are $800-$1200CAD shipped. Currently working on that goal, doing what I can. Being a father, other responsibilities take priority, hence the slow progress and slow/low video production.
Wunderlich and SW Motech both offer a center stand that mounts to the underside of the bike. The stand you see in the video is a Hornig Lifter, Pitbull also make a rear paddock stand. Loads of options, all available online!