thanks for sharing such a detailed servicing.watched it several time to try to solve issues with my deck.however one remains still,perhaps you know the work around ;the idler wheel arm of my deck doesn't swing correctly,the idler wheel got stuck in the wrong position when pressing wind,rewind or play button,messing up and chewing the tape......thanks a lot for your help.
first of all thanks for the immediate answer.actually it is not completly stuck but the assemble doesn'tswing between either reel to have proper engagement. i mean it is free to move but it doesn't,even when you change the direction of the tape by pressing ffw or rw or play button.once more thanks for your support.
@@asbcustom hi peter,thanks for the follow up,idler tire is in good shape (according to your video)diameter is 17mm,i have no skills to upload video,may i send it to your email address if you have one?rgds
@@asbcustom thanks for the follow up,th idler wheel,according to your video,is in good shape (17 mm diameter).i have no skills to upload video,may i send it to your emai address if you have one?thanks.rgds
@@asbcustom I have mine packed up. I meant to say, you can film the unboxing of that for other people to see how to do it properly. Then I remembered how meticulous you are and you'd probably have even better ways than I do.
My first job at 18 was as a packer for a loudspeaker manufacturer in Rhode Island circa 1978. Audio loudspeakers were very expensive and heavy back then. I learned shipping and packing was an art form. I always wrap delicate items in a new heavy towel from Amazon. I tape it up tight. I then always double -wall or perform a double box method sealed with asphalt paper tape. After 6400 eBay auctions, I have had zero shipping issues. People are just lazy and don't want to buy new shipping cartons.
I think 1978 was my first real speaker purchase. They were Dunlavy designed, second quality prototypes, not suitable for resale (as I was told). John's shop was a few miles away before he moved to Colorado, I think it was. They were affordable I guess, but I still had to borrow the money for them. I'm crazy about packing as well, I've never seen any reason to assume that the packages won't be drop-kicked, smashed, or otherwise abused. Applying a "Fragile" sticker is like a dare, I never do it. I've had a couple of small packages lost, but like you, never arrive damaged.
@@asbcustom I always print my own labels on printer paper in Verdana font: DO NOT DROP OR STACK - FRAGILE. I take a photo of the parcel right in front of the clerk at drop off. Now I have proof of what it looked like before shipping. I've noticed UPS has started making it very hard to file a damage claim. You basically have to pay for the shipping with a credit card (I use AMEX ONLY) and file a dispute to get their attention.
Some folk lack common sense, and/or are just lazy. I must admit, I do cheekily but politely ask the seller to put plenty of cushioning around the deck so the face never gets damaged. 'Plenty of knocks and bumps along the route' is something I usually say. This is lovely looking deck!
Those packing peanuts are the worst, something will always get damaged with them. I'd put seller response at about 10%. They say they understand the request, then pack the same way they would have in any event, sort of like a builder. Have you ever watched "Mr. Blandings Builds His Dream House"? The scene where the wife is telling the builder her requests for the room colors? That's my experience with eBay.
Hello, Peter!🤝🤝 I immediately noticed that the box lacked protection on the sides of the device and the front panel! Paper cannot protect the device like that, so at least 20 mm hard foam, or even better - at least 5 mm. plywood for maximum reliability! Good luck with your repairs with this Tascam 112, Peter!✋
@@asbcustom Thanks Peter! I’m also very glad to see you on RU-vid!.. Yes, everything is fine with me and my family! I hope everything is fine with you too? Most importantly, be healthy and as we say: Siberian health to you and Caucasian longevity!!!💪🤝
I have a 122MK2 excellent cosmetic condition in my rack, that needs work I replaced the VU lights a ways one went out a ways back but I think now what looks like an idler is shot and im sure it needs a belt as well even though it does have multiple motors but its not 100% direct drive like a Studer Deck however it was always a nice deck and I will prob watch some of your vids with these taken apart to see if I can work on mine sometime as this kinda inspired me to maybe try and get it working again. Wow that other deck had some serious damage to the rack ear from shipping. This is why I am so reluctant to send my classic Carver M-500t out to be serviced its heavy and I have seen so many bad ones all damaged while mine is in perfect condition and cant easily be replaced if something happens. So while it def needs work it does still work, but one channel kind goes in and out almost like a bad solder joint or relay issue not sure. Plus it probably needs caps as its prob going on 30 years of use or more.
I have an Akai GX-R88 waiting for me to work on it that got shipped to me wrapped in about that much bubble wrap. Seller sent it to me standing on end with the door side down flopping around loose inside a computer tower box. The door came out of the box separate from the deck in multiple different pieces. So that's how I got myself an Akai auto reverse double direct drive tape deck for half the price I originally paid for it.
@asbcustom thank ou for such precise videos on upgrading mechanical parts! I have NOS Tascam similar heads that you show on this video, but once installed , one channel has a loss of 3/4dB on the HF (rolloff starting 5KHz ) on playback and at 10Khz about 3.5db less on left channel, not coming from the electronics, as i tried to invert Left and right... is it normal or a relap could help?
Thank you for watching. I have some questions: Was it like this before you swapped heads? Has it been fully aligned? Has it been calibrated? The answers will help know what to eliminate.
@@asbcustom thank ou so much, actually I did full work on aligment with gauge etc (tilt/azimuth /heigt )all seem perfect but I istalled this head in a Pioneer CT F1250, the electronic of the 1250 fit this head perfectly for Pla Back that I aligned with a cal Tape,(trustable one ) Right channel 100<Hz to 12KHz flat (+-0.5db) but the left track shows a significant loss that seems coming from the head, i see it when I intervert the wires left right... is there an test ou could suggest?
There are many details I still don't know, like how it behaved before you changed the heads, if you've looked with a mirror tape to see if it's tracking correctly (it could be curling on the guide), if the problem is playback, record, or both, etc. If you only suspect the head, then an induction test would tell you a lot.
@@asbcustom yes the problem is only on playback.., before I change head, the problem was that the head was totally shot, this is the reason why i replaced it( it was loosing highs starting from 2Khz on two channels) yes, I really used a mirror cassette to settle a perfect tape path, it is consistent and with no tape deviation or frequency bounce even in HF.. so ou would suggest i connect an inductance meter to eacxh channel of th head right? and mesure the Inductance of each channel?
Hello sir ; Hope you dont mind me asking ? I have a tascam 122 Mk 3 Had it since new. Had used it sparingly previously. And then the unit just sat. I found some old cassettes and was going to bump them over to at least a CD. I fired up the tascam Mk 3 And immediately The (green)play button The (orange) pause button The (red) record button began to flash simultaneously Exact time and speed Loaded cassette in pressed play nothing. Shut of machine Turned back on And still flashing and does nothing Could you tell me if your familiar with that flashing ? Is it a code or warning lights that tascam uses to indicate a specific common problem ? Left machine plugged in for a while with those 3 lights still flashing. Still does nothing even after warm up. I hit reverse and forward and play button watching the cassette tape and it ever so SLIGHTY managed to move enough to take up a little loose slack of tape. I barely noticed it. Any thoughts ? Thank you for listening Fran My guess is direct drive motor? Also guess the 3 lights flashing indicates power problem or motor/electric jam in drive motor. But thats just a guess Ive had it since new and its in great shape physically Not worth much as is ? But seems a sin not to repair it to keep or sell
Thank you for watching. Your flashing lights are indicative of a broken "C" gear. This is a known maintenance item on this machine and well documented, I've included its repair in several videos. It could possibly be other control errors but this is by far the most common. It’s definitely worth repairing, these are great decks and will last generations if cared for. All the best.
Greetings I have a Victor model 711 cassette deck. Unfortunately, its gears were broken due to the old machine. How can I get the gears of this deck in Iran?
Thank you for watching. Microscope is old-school Nikon Optiphot set up for metallurgy, and from 50x-400x. Head profiles are confirmed on an optical comparator and shown at this point in the video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ApgL5WCFwmw.htmlsi=-79So1naAFAf2FPW&t=3854
One has to realize why you do this. The Tascam 100 series decks sound and record amazing , and your thoughtful approach and attention to detail on these amazing decks is fascinating to watch.
Yeah when you use the DolbyS the audio sound drops dramatically I never found out why? If I were you I'd always use the DolbyC and chrome Maxell tapes are the best.
DolbyS requires perfect alignment, then it works well. I don't personally use any noise reduction when originating content, but many people like it. When we were kids and driving loud cars, we would record with B then not use it on playback, so we could hear the treble over the motor and exhaust. Thanks for watching and Χριστός Ανέστη!.
Great video and test analyzer. How do you know the original recorded VU level on any given tape you play. The output knob is variable and you need to turn it to get sound, and that changes the VU meters.
Thanks for watching. These machines we originally designed for the professional radio, and other studio markets, where tapes are frequently swapped, and they were in loops at higher levels than consumer decks. It's customary in those environments to include level and eq tones on the tape that the engineer could reference. These studios also had their own reference tapes of course, where consumers typically did not. When I set these up, I either put a small red dot on the "normal" reference point, or simply clock the output knob exactly on the "7". There's a full explanation in the 122mk2 user manual and probably others. I can post the text if you like.
@@asbcustom Thank you for this detailed reply. Yes that makes sense. I have been testing tapes , and taking note of the level. Then playing in the Tascam 112 and comparing. Nominal output was right around 7 on the output knob as you stated. Another tape was a little more account tape type I’m guessing. I was able to find that Tascam 112 Mk2 user manual. There was also an interesting article written on the Tascam 112 Mk1 in “Sound On Sound , April 1987. Found out how to operate it because it’s different than the others. The manual for this Mk1 is locked up and can’t get from archives it seems. Thanks again, and the analyzer is true gold cool.
I just checked and the archives are still accessible here: www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/tascam/112.shtml If you're on a VPN, you will probably have to pause it in order to log in.
@@asbcustom Hi , the hifiengine site is locked to new registrations It’s been like this for sometime I think. This is the message - Sorry, but due to abuse of our free service, the registration system has been permanently disabled. While we work on a solution to this issue, the service remains open for existing members only
@@asbcustom Ok, just a thought! I got a new idler tyre for my DRM-22, but it was a slightly loose fit. I ended up putting some tape in the groove to pack it out in the same way as your plastic spacer.
@@asbcustom I can't find your ebay sales and I also have a Denon DRS-810 that I may want you to service. I didn't see any cassete player links on the website, can you help?
Not currently with my own equipment, but there are others with dedicated machines who produce them. Excellent alignment tapes can be purchased from A.N.T. Audio, Gennlabs, HPR Audio, and possibly others of whom I'm unaware. Thank you for watching.
Do you know The Nylon or Tethlon grill cooking mats, As Seen on Tv product. I was having this same problem winding coils. I cut round disks of those mats, and place them between ends of the mandrill, wrap your coils, glue, dry, release. Also Trojan makes a great oil, only purpose i can find for it 😄 is a release agent. 😂😂😆 Winding out a few coils at a time. 😂 Never fails.
You have experience winding these type of coils then? Do you gang them up or one at a time? Did you see in this video where I ended up using solid Teflon bar stock for the mold, but still had some minor sticking problems after a while even when using release agent?
Very interesting video as always, and thanks for the collaboration! A couple things... the tape was targeted for 3kHz based on the output frequency from my own reference tape, so both were supposed to be pretty at 3kHz give or take the error rate on the recording machine for my reference tape. Glad to see they both got close enough, surprised to see the A&D got closer. It made that recording before I discovered I'd over-oiled the supply capstan, still had some dirt on one flywheel, and was missing a washer. I do have a Roth azimuth tape - it was used on the A&D but not used on the Technics. The Technics is running factory alignment plus 30 years of wear and whatever happened to it with the shipping damage. I clearly need a better tape for that, but first I need to be sure the A&D alignment hasn't moved. I had trouble getting in there to paintlock the adjustment. Now, back to the video for part 3...
That was fun, thanks! My takeaway is that your machines are performing well in both speed and stability. I'll be interested to know how the tape performs when you get it back. I'll have it in the mail next week.
As will I. Glad to hear your thoughts about the TD-V1010. I may need to keep those comments in mind later in the fall. I may or may not have a deck with that same motor on the shelf right now…
I have a couple of pictures from that build I'll e-mail to you. The differences in the motor assemblies are striking, the V1010's is miles ahead of the V711's, good as it is. The swap was really only possible because I was able to accurately machine the components, otherwise, it would have been an ugly job. It's an amazing sounding deck now, almost scary quiet.
it seems that the pot needs some love. I tried setting playback speed with the button engaged but speed went crazy haha, Ill need to intervene that board this weekend I guess… I don’t know how much Ill need to tear the thing apart to get to that little board. Thanks for your comment!
There's no question that the pot needs attention, they all do, but if the switch doesn't bypass the pot when disengaged, then the switch is faulty as well.
Thanks for the insights on repairing my Tascam 112! I tackled the speed variation issue by getting into the speed control board and desoldering the Alps switch. Cleaning it up with IPA and then using Deoxit to lube it up really helped. Reassembling was a bit tricky, especially with the spring mechanism, and I even smashed one of the switches trying to close its case. Tweezers came in handy to reshape it. I also added Deoxit to the pots without taking them apart to avoid damage. Now it works great! Your advice was very helpful!, now I can temper that pot with the switch off and won’t make any funky speed variations!
hi again! I'm experiencing issues with the pitch board on my deck (this very same guy). Even when the pitch button is disengaged, adjusting the potentiometer causes the speed to fluctuate. Initially, I didn't think it was a problem as long as I didn't touch the pot, but it seems there might be some corrosion causing speed variations during playback, which is frustrating. Is it normal for the potentiometer to affect the speed even when the pitch switch is off? If not, I might need to disassemble the deck again to clean or replace parts, not quite sure
something to add is that this deck has been working without issues for months until recently, that’s why I think the problem isn’t the motor, I might be wrong though
Have you try to wrap the core with baking paper? The second solution that cames into my mind is to make a small verical cuts on the core edges ( to allow core mold to wigle) and made a small holes and soope shaped tooth's between core and sexond mold. It will expand core by small ammount after screwing and automatically shrink it after unscrewing.
Wrapping isn't feasible on this, it's just too small. The vertical cuts are a thought, they could be incorporated into the 3D print. Right now my best results have been to just leave the core integrated with the coil. It doesn't hurt a thing and reduces a lot of fussing. I'm having very consistent results with that method. Thank you for comments, I'll think about the slots.
@@asbcustom Semi retired now, but started off my career 55 years ago in consumer electronics. Then marine and ham radio repairs, specialising in board repairs (burnt up tracks holes etc). Nothing to the same level of expertise that continues to astound me in every one of your videos ! Please keep them coming.. Regards Alan, ham call GI0OTC
Amazing! I can't even begin to live up to your undeserved compliment, but I sincerely appreciate it! I'm getting close to a solution for this motor coil, stay tuned.
One thought, perhaps using dissolvable filament would be the best bet? Then for the adhesive, maybe use one of the locktite products as they cure in the absence of air. Just a couple ideas.
I'll have to look into dissolvable filament, I had no idea it exists, thanks! The anaerobic adhesive is desirable, I just need to find one that won't affect the wire insulation. A little research is needed.
In fact yes, that's exactly what happens. I have a test of that drying now, using the 3 piece mold idea also posted by a viewer. Thank you for watching and posting your ideas.
It would, yes, but require yet another set of molds to manufacture for the wax pour and release. I am trying to do it in a single operation, if possible. Thank you for your comment!
A traditional mold is split into 3 pieces for 1 side and a keystone for the other. Like a puzzle. Why do we as men refuse to do the minimum amount of research when faced with a problem? A 30 second google image search for "coil winding mold" would show you that you have it split the wrong direction.
"Why do we as men refuse to do the minimum amount of research ..." I suppose because some of us were around before Google Image Search existed, and learned to use our intellect and creativity to problem-solve.
Hello Peter! Yasou! Very delicate work! Before winding the coil, I suggest lubricating the plastic walls of the frame, top and bottom, and the core for winding! That is, lubricate with a very thin layer of white silicone-Teflon grease, which is used to lubricate plastic gears! I'm sure you're familiar with it, it's thick and doesn't run! After the frame is filled with wire, saturate it with radio varnish - enamel! (in Russia it is called tsapon varnish!) After a few hours, when the varnish has hardened, disassembling the frame will be easier, since the outermost turns of the wire will not stick to the frame, thanks to the lubricant, and the coil will not fall apart when removed! Next, the surface turns of the coil will need to be wiped of grease and completely soaked!✋ Здравствуй, Питер! Yasou! Очень тонкая работа! Предлагаю перед намоткой катушки, смазывать пластмассовые стенки каркаса, верх низ и сердечник для намотки! То есть смазывать очень тонким слоем силиконовой - тефлоновой смазкой белого цвета, которая применяется для смазки пластмассовых шестерёнок! Уверен, что ты знаком с ней, она густая и не растекается! После того, как каркас будет заполнен проводом, пропитать его радио лаком - эмалью! (в России его называют цапон лак!) Через несколько часов, когда лак застынет, разборка каркаса облегчится, так как крайний витки провода, не пристанут к каркасу, благодаря смазки и катушка не развалится при извлечении! Далее, поверхностные витки катушки, нужно будет протереть от смазки и пропитать её окончательно!✋
Yasou Vadim and Христос воскресе! I didn't show it in the video but I absolutely used many different release agents (grease). The problem was the wire interlocking with the 3D printed extrusion layers mechanically. I plan to try some, as another viewer suggested, in three parts, leaving the center section inside the coil. This will obviously work, I just need to decide if I'm okay with it aesthetically. ll the best to you and yours!
@@asbcustom Воистину Воскресе!.... Alitos Anesti!🙏 Yes, Peter! Dividing it into three parts will be even better! You can make the central axis have a flat base and push the coil out of the other half, in the form of a medical syringe plunger! In general, you need to experiment!👍
Cool vid. On my Tascam i have one coil that was damaged. I managed to get a circuit by splicing into the coil but only manage about 5 ohm and the other 3 are at 14 ohm. Funny thing is the deck runs just fine, even with the 1 coil at a different resistance. Is that because the other 3 keep the capstan in sync? There is no speed drift and it keeps dead on 3000khz when i run a tape. Im leaving it be for now, but the home made coil idea has my diy senses tingling. :)
@@asbcustom It seemed OK. I dont have a good test tape (£10/ bucks ebay tone tape) so both the mkii show .09 or .10 i think. But my recordings from source sound really good. Both hold pitch, spot on. If i remember right, when i first got the deck it would not spin up sometimes, and thats when i found the severed copper to the coil. Seems OK now since i tapped into the coil. I was surprised it ran so smooth. 3 x 14 ohm coils may support the one thats 5ohm. I think they run in pairs though, i remember probing an ic somewhere and got 28 ohm & 20ohm
If you're willing, and once I get this all sorted, I'd like to send a new coil that you could do a before and after W&F test against your 5Ω one. This would be very valuable information to see tested properly.
@@asbcustom Im always up for a bit of experimentation in the name of science. You are saying pull off the 5ohm repaired coil and pop on a replacement running at 14-15 ohm? One you made? That would be interesting indeed. You think the 5 ohm runs a bit rich compared to the 14ohm? It would be interesting to see if it makes any difference. W/F would occur if there was a disturbance in the speed on a micro level? One that was undetected by the WFGUI software?
Not the speed so much, that can be compensated for. I think the discontinuity in the magnetic field would destabilize the flutter more than anything else. Since you have a W&F tape already, I think it would be beneficial to do a before and after coil change out test, in as controlled conditions as possible. It doesn't even matter if the W&F tape is accurate, this is a simple comparison, and if the testing conditions are as similar as possible, would have merit.
I used to be an electric motor winder for about 20 years. At that time we were sinking the motors in some type of varnish or resin. After that, we would put the motors to dry in a ventilated oven for a few hours. We also used some heat-resistant PVC film for the sides of the coils. That kind of film comes off the coils very easily after the varnish/resin dries. I hope this helps.
I may have worked on some of your motors. :) Based on the smell of some of the burned up ones I've been around, I always wondered if the dipping resin wasn't phenolic based? The PVC film is good information, I'll look into that. Thanks for your comments.
