TJ's collection of videos of stuff he does. Mainly related to water skiing, barefoot water skiing, alpine skiing, drones, model rockets and other geek toys...
I was really excited when I watched your video, because a week ago my P3Pro exhibited this exact problem for the first time. Mine does have HDMI, and the bottom of the RC clearly says GL300A. Unfortunately, the controller board does not have the markings as the one in the video to specify what the contacts are. I wonder if it actually still has a 300A board or if during the HDMI upgrade (previous owner) the board was changed to a 300B 0r 300C controller board?
@@tjones99 That's what I am finding out, but thanks for confirming that. I know a new board can be purchased for a boatload of money on Amazon, but how would I know for sure that this is the problem? The symptoms are the same. The drone sat for 9 mos and then I flew it three times in a week with no problem. 2 days after the last flight I started up the drone and the RC but the video would not connect. I can raise and lower the gymbal, but I'm really afraid to fly without the video feed.
I admire your perseverance - that looks tricky vs some of the others I've seen like creality and Revo. Have you had experience of any others to compare? Great tutorial by the way
I think you're forgetting about the update that they give you for free. Every time they update the software they add another part number BGA/ NAND / IC Etc..... I have the t-56 and when I type my part number into the box it always shows up and I'm able to read it right to it. Maybe the t48 had more problems then the t-56
The problem is the software not the T48 (or T56). You can run the software in demo mode without a programmer attached (which is what I advise before buying) and select your chip type and load your Intel HEX file. No I did not forget about the update they give you. I tried the update, I contacted support, I waited for the NEXT update where they promised to fix the issue and it was still an issue. I tried t5yhe following versions and NONE of them loaded my HEX files properly. 705, 1250, 1263, 1266, and since you reminded me I just downloaded 1267 and tried it and guess what? Out of Address of Device. (And for yuks I selected T56 as my programmer in demo mode). So no, I didn't forget the update and here we are 8 months later and they still haven't fixed the software. Like I said, great hardware... but the software and support sucks.
Oh and I have no trouble SELECTING the chip type 12F509... it is when I load an Intel HEX file that was made FOR the 12F509 that the software says the Intel HEX file is invalid. Compiled using multiple versions of MPLAB and MPLABX and also with Great Cow Basic and other compilers that support the 12F509. The Intel HEX files work with my other programmers.
@@tjones99 Where can I get my hands on one of those chips that you are having trouble with I can test it for you in my t-56 and see what happens but you will have to tell me what to do or what to write to it, unless you just want to read it for now.
this is not an error with this marking of points. You select points on the layer that is highlighted, if you have it selected as invisible and you look at another layer, you won't delete anything because you won't select anything. Try scanning on a black piece of paper - it should be invisible to the scanner so you won't have to remove anything that the scanner won't scan. Turtable scans the surface on which the object is located and selects it itself, just press delete.
Just the video I was looking for, real shows how to use it along with the odd mistake you made and showed us how to do it correctly so a great big thank you
glad i came across ur sharing. i am selling my 1 week old seal lite due to all the frustrations of not getting any usable outcomes. .and what even bothers more is i got no interest even trying to get rid of it with big discount of it being something like pretty much new.. i will take it out of the box and give it a try again.. can u share some tutorials on scanning smaller objects ? like a nut,or something 2cm by 2cm ? thank u.
You're much better off with a cheap Pickit 3 clone if you need to work with PICs, I discovered this trying for a few days with some very common PIC models and the TL866II. The only issue with the pickit clones is weak self-powering which is often solved by lowering the voltage to 4.5 volts but you can be sure everything else works and mplabx provides an application for easily programming larger volumes of mcus
So their software has a hex parsing limitation. Seems like a minor bug. As they advised, hex to bin is easy. Did you try exporting from their software with the config bits set and comparing to the original? Did you actually try debugging the rootcause? How much was it to ship the (non defective) unit back? The device supports the chip, so yes they are correct in stating it does so. That is not to say the software that drives the device is perfect.
I agree it seems like a minor bug and after pointing it out to XGECU support and them saying they would fix it in the next release and waiting 2 months for that next release to find it not fixed is pretty sad and also an indicator of their support level in my opinion. Here it is 4 months from contacting support and no new release since the one at the 2 month mark... I have been watching. As I said in the video, I do LIKE the device, if they fixed the software I would likely purchase it again... The device works only with their software and their software so exactly how are they correct in stating it supports the devices I use when it does not correctly load a code file to program the devices? It has a 40 pin ZIF socket, does that mean it supports any chip you can plug into that socket? No. Supporting a chip means you can load a code file and program the chip... without errors. I do not disagree that hex to bin is easy and yes, if you import the file, manually set the config bits and save the file and reload it, it APPEARS to be correct, but when you are writing and testing code and there are multiple iterations happening do you really want to have to be manually setting the config bits for every iteration? The chances of making a mistake and testing defective code go up and the time spent goes up. Do you actually trust that the software is going to do the right thing when programming? The only way to be sure it is programmed correctly would be to program it with the XGECU unit then verify it using a different programmer that loads the code correctly. If it gives you and error message and fails to load the config bits, how else are you supposed to verify that the device is programmed correctly including the config bits? What exactly do you suggest for debugging the root cause. I tried producing HEX files using 4 completely different development environments as well as multiple versions of the MicroChip development environment. All produced very different looking hex files. All produced the error. I tried making my own "device" in the software (which as far as I can tell simply allows you to copy an existing device and name it something else so I am not really sure what the purpose of that is). I just tried loading the hex file and manually setting the Config bits and saving the hex file and then comparing the hex files and there appear to be differences in the hex files that makes me not trust that process. I also went back and gave their Hex2BIN utility another shot and was not able to get it to open a hex file without a program exception (and the all Chinese menus do not work as normal and the only way I found to open a hex file was to right click and select what I think is Open)
@@tjones99not sure what is going on, but I just picked some random PIC12F509 project from github (/tanahome/S2DP_PIC12F509), loaded the source in MPLAB X IDE v6.20, and compiled with MPLAB XC8 Compiler. The resulting hex file loaded no problem at all in MiniPro (TL866), but as you found out Xgpro (T48/T56/TL866II Plus) spits out that error. the older MiniPro software also gives the option to enable or disable the CONFIG region. whereas Xgpro only shows the "FLASH" region. So i just think they did not implement parsing the CONFIG bits in their software. That is a serious regression.
Thank you for the Vid and the files.. After flashing the board my phone now detects communication with the Remote Control. (before it was just detected as charging device). However I still dint get access to camera on the DJI GO app.. On my windows 7 computer when i plug it in, I only see "DJI USB Virtual COM 4" in Ports.. the DJI Assistant Does not detect the Remote Control.
So while recently working with some LightBridge units I found there are multiple versions of DJI Assistant... at least 3 versions... and I found that one version detected my LightBridge 1 unit but not my LightBridge 2 unit and a third detected only my drones... I suspect you may be using the incorrect version. It seems you can download and install all versions on the same machine... www.dji.com/ca/downloads/softwares/assistant-dji-lightbridge www.dji.com/ca/downloads/softwares/assistant-dji-2 www.dji.com/ca/downloads/softwares/dji-assistant-2-consumer-drones-series So try the different versions of Assistant and see if any of them connect...
@@luisvaldez6204Sorry... I was just working on some LightBridge units and the above reply was applicable to them not Phantom 3 Professional... I do not believe that I ever connected the Phantom 3 Professional (P3P) to my PC and had anything more than what you are seeing on the PC in device manager... at least not connecting to any DJI software like Assistant... Once I had done the flash procedure using the TI flash utility and Putty etc, I then connected the controller to my phone and used the DJI GO app on the phone to connect to the controller and the drone and get live video. I just did it again to test and with my iPhone running the DJI GO app without the controller connected I see the connect to your device screen, and as soon as I plugged in the controller via USB lightning cable the app immediately knew it was connected to a Phantom 3 Professional and said Aircraft Connected. When I click Camera I see the drone camera view. But... my recollection when first doing this was I ran into a number of issues when I was using different cables to my phone (tablet) and different phones (tablets). Specifically your cable must be a charge AND sync cable... many are charge only. And regarding phones... I had some android devices that I was never able to get DJI GO to work with. So make sure you are using a device that is known to work with the DJI GO app. I have personally successfully used iPhone 7, iPhone 12 mini and iPhone 12. I recall using a couple of different Android phones and tablets successfully but I cannot test today as I no longer have the devices or they are no longer running the stock Android on them... I do recall you had to enable USB Debugging in the Android OS before they would work.
@@luisvaldez6204Oh, and another viewer posted the following comment recently "When you flash the firmware given by your zip files, it can only communicate with Apple devices, android devices will still remain in the same disconnected state, even with usb debugging and every cord and device I own. I only have android devices. After a week of struggling (the first time) I finally found the solution. The controller needs to be updated to 1.3.2 before it will work with android. From there is needs to be updated even more to be used, this can be done ota through the controller. My dads iphone 7 saved the day twice now. Happy flying! "
Still got the same motor? V4 Evinrude? That was a great combination for that boat. For its age it was a light motor on a small boat. And it was nice low profile. Went quick and pulled a lot of skiers when Mike owned it!
@@tjones99 yup the old 140 still runs great I just put a prop on it we hit 55mph with it. Currently bringing back some love to the interior didn’t have that bench when we got it just 2 front to back seats
Thank you! I'm currently in the market for a scanner that won't break the bank, since it will just have to serve for stuff like scanning the compound curve contours of model kids (e.g., scan a car model to get the contours to model widebody extensions to be printed). Seems like this would do the trick, especially with a coat of washable color to remove the reflections interfering with the scan.
While the Seal Lite scanner has a USB-C prot on it, it appears to require special cabling to connect. It comes with a Y cable to USB-C where one part of the Y goes to your computer and one part goes to their provided power adapter. Are you using their cable and their power adapter?
@@tjones99 awesome! I have a 57 Chevy 4 door hardtop that has quite a few pieces needed that are not reproduced yet. I will scan them, clean up the STL, and have them machined, cast, or 3D printed. I also have a ton of other projects too.
@@aurktman1106 I can't stress enough how significant cleaning up the scans before alignment is... Getting rid of the base for starters... This is one area where Table Scan rocks... and my valuable lesson with table scan I learned (the hard way as usual) was the table itself has to have a recognizable pattern of depressions in it so the scan software knows what angle the table is at at all times! Cleanup is huge. I have ordered the 3DMakerPro table to see if it is better than my home made pattern. I also experimented with "dry shampoo spray" that will really help with shiny car part (shiny anything) scanning. This dry shampoo coats with a dull white finish that comes off easy... why anyone would put this on their hair is beyond me but it works for scanning. Oh and I found it very hard to align a part I was scanning that was MOSTLY symetrical... easy to confuse the align algorithm (and me in manual align) ... so I used hot glue to put a few irregular spaced blobs on the part which made it easier for alignment and MUCH easier for manual alignment (which I use a lot) and then once all are aligned and the Process stage looks great other than the hot glue bumps I just delete the bumps from the scan like you would delete noise and let the "fill gaps" take care of the removed portions and rerun the process stage.
@@tjones99 thanks for the info! I will start doing that tomorrow, going to order some dry shampoo spray now. A bunch of the parts I want to scan are chrome plated so it’s a must to dull them up.
@@tjones99thank you for the tutorial, I'm thinking about buying this to scan small parts and it really helps seeing someone using the software. Ps: dry shampoo absorb oils in your hair, then you brush it away (hopefully outside) and so it manages to give your hairs somewhat of a "clean" look... That said is mostly catered towards unwashed teenage girls xD
Yes give it another shot. I know I didn’t use fancy screen recording etc but I think you can clearly see what I was doing mouse wise as I went through the steps.
@tjones99 THANK YOU! I went ahead and bought a Seal Lite and turntable and while waiting for delivery watched some previous reviews, few of which were complementary, I started doubting my purchase. But I think you’ve driven home the point that the learning curve is steep but the device and software are very capable given practice. I’m confident that this will meet my needs eventually. Great tutorial.
@@johnprouty6583 I do t think you will be disappointed once you are over the hump. It’s getting the steps to that first successful scan that is killer. I was close to throwing in the towel a few times before my first successful scan. It’s all been improvement since then. Is it perfect? Nope. Is it as easy to use as a photocopier? Nope. But the task itself performing is complex and with a little experience it gets much easier. Oh and scanning like thousands of frames is pretty much a waste of time I find. 200-400 good frames is better than 1400 frames. A few angles with 300 frames each and a little cleanup gets you a pretty good 3D model.
I just had the same issue with my Youshiko weather station, after just one year! Tried replacing with a DollaTek 2Pcs High Precision AHT25 but it didn't work. Do you know if there are any probes that are compatible with Youshiko weather stations? Or how I would even find out? Thanks!
Does your Youshiko also use the SHT21 chip for temp and humidity? If so then a quick glance at the datasheet for the SHT21 shows its I2C address is 40 and the AHT25 datasheet shows its I2C address is 38. I searched for devices with I2C address 40 and that led me to this page which might help. www.mysensors.org/build/humidity_si7021
My temperature has recently started reading about 10c high. The humidity is fine just the temp. Also has recently started going through batteries like mad lately. Time to open it up and have a look, thanks for helpful video.
Thanks for the informative video I am a sheet metal worker and have no clue about electronics and programming. I’ve now retired and am looking to do small parts to help supplement my pension. Thanks for the info
This is a great tutorial. I really like Inkscape however for the 2d text design. Is it possible to just make the stock in Fusion and then import an SVG onto the face of it?
Hello, Has anyone got this to work on a GL658A controller? I see the two comments saying it will but wanted to confirm 100%. The GL658A is the first iteration of the Inspire 1 controller. If so does anyone have the bin files hosted somewhere?
This is one of the better, if not best CNC Fusion 360 instructional videos I have seen to date, thank you. When I tried this, It did take a full depth cut so am thinking can I program it to take a series of cuts instead? Are you able to tell me how to I enabled the Z probe too please?
Been a while but pretty sure I just added the z probe GCODE into my machine definition for the MPCNC in fusion360. My recollection is that I created a couple of different machine definitions. One I did a home for X Y and Z and the other I just did a home on Z so I could manually set where I wanted x and y to start. I can look at my definition if you want and see.
Super helpful video, Thank you. I managed to use this on my LowRider that I have just built. I have to do a few tweaks to the Fusion 360 Post Processor and tools library etc but it’s a start.
Hello I am about to try this process on my board. Just one question do you just touch the wire to enter boot mode when powered on or does both ends have to stay connected
Thanks for sharing, we always seem to get the rollers after 2 good passes, but our shoreline isn't straight and 1 end it's close and the other is gets slightly wider. Enjoy!
Yes. I am in north Mazinaw. I put the course up when I am there for the weekends. When done I take the balls off and my home made cable course sinks 100 feet and lives on the bottom. While 100 feet has its drawbacks it also has a plus side. Nothing grows at that depth so all cables and pipes COM up clean.
I discovered it would connect quickly on just battery power, and it stayed connected. When I plugged in the a/c power it would freeze up or would not connect at all. I checked the output of the a/c power adapter and it showed the output at over 8 volts. I used another power adapter that was outputting at 5 volts and so far, for 24 hours it is working and has stayed connected.
Sorry, I can't say. No experience with the 300C. For sure you would need different firmware than what I link to in the description... pretty sure the firmware I point at would brick the 300C
@@tjones99 yes of course, i would cover all the shipping. I prefer to ship it, instead of waiting until August. I left mine not charged and it stopped connecting.
Mark it is scary how fast I got comfortable with that DJI MINI 2 over water it is so reliable. I am flying that from across the lake at the park. I am out over the water for 20+ minues at a time. Game changer. AndI am getting better at the panning and following.
I thought I might be able to save you a step and make edits easier. You don't need to explode the text. When you explode the text, it really isn't text anymore. If you don't explode it, you can go back and change the size, font, etc. about the text. Exploding the text just makes a bit more work for you should you want to make any edits.
I don't believe that is the case for engraving. For example for a letter O you need the two paths for it to engrave in between them. As a letter (unexploded text) you cannot select that path to engrave. Unless something has chanegd...
Give it a shot and you will see that Fusion will have no problem coming up with the inner and outer borders of text that isn't exploded using the engrave function (it works with Trace as well). Thanks for the reply and for making the video.
Can this be used with no power? Or does it lock up if there is no power? Wanted to use one as a manual powered type for my mom, she gets a bit dizzy and would prefer a self powered one at home.
