Hmmm.. I Had to replace ALL the valves in my Daughters' Aveo. Because 'something' (a small Rock possibly ? ). .. Got into under the Crank pulley and snapped the Timing belt ( Finding a small but obvious dent in the drive pulley)...it was less than halfway to it's mileage limits, Sold the damn thing.. the day following my successful repair.
omg they may have ruined this engine; there are very detailed specifications on where and how much sealant should be used on the camshaft carriage, timing chain cover, and valve cover. There are also strict torque specifications for every bolt on these motors yet they did not once use a torque wrench. Valve backlash adjusters should also be flushed with a solvent like kerosene then filled with motor oil (these should be very firm and have no spring when installed) hopefully the machine shop they sent this too understood that each individual block, crankshaft, and connecting rod can have a range of sizes and that replacement bearings come in several sizes and need to be chosen based on the factory sizing of each mating component. This engine may run for a bit but if it was not properly rebuilt it won't last long. They also used the wrong sealant; the correct stuff is grey (I can't recall the name of it).
Hey, just a heads up, it looks like you missed the bolt tightening sequence and didn't use a torque wrench. Following proper procedures can ensure a more secure assembly. Cheers!
I’m working on this same car for the past 2 years. Repaired the cylinder head with a valve job and valve lash. Now it’s time for me to inspect the engine block and pistons.
Can the front oil seal be replaced without removing the oil pump? I have an oil leak that I suspect is from the seal and want to replace it and would like to do it with the engine still in car. Had the same problem with my Mazda Rustler 1.3
