These plug caps makes two points of contact . you addressed the problem of the out side one needed to be pushed all the way on to have good contact with the base of the plug. There is also a center contact spring that fits in Side the spark cap if its missing or not making connection to the plug top you can also have this problem. these springs are sometimes loose in the bag the ignition comes in, and need to be placed in the cap. Very easy to lose opening the bag and never knowing its there. Hope this helps. Happy flying.
03:04 Drone and FPV? That alone will get you Banished from many clubs. I fly both but don't fly Drones any where near the flying field. I'll get Black balled!
Not sure that technical is the right term, just complicating what should have been a simple installation, blocks of wood, epoxy, neoprene washers et al?
Most kits nowadays are pre-built ARFs (Almost Ready to Fly). This means you'll not have to glue wood or cover an airframe. There are a ton of great kits for gas/glow out there!
Where I fly 🪰 😎 the people are great. We've got a culture of curiosity and support. And I'm very grateful for that. Sorry to read your experiences have not been this.
This one was about 7.25 lbs with an 80-inch wingspan. I never flew the airplane at full throttle for more than a minute or two. 75% throttle was more than enough power. At 50%, it started to get sluggish at the controls.
Great Video, a few questions for you: How does the crank case and lower-end internals get lubricated on a 4-stroke? I've flown 2 strokes for years and un always wanted to venture into 4 strokes. Is the main benefit the sound, and ability to spin a larger prop which equals more thrust, but a lower top speed?
Nailed it. Yes, you'll get much more torque (i.e., power) to spin bigger and higher pitched props. The sound is just a bonus. As for lubrication, the engines are built to slef-lube, if you will. Make sure you're using the right glow fuel for smaller bore engines. There are formulas specific for 4-stroke if you are using glow.
The 4 strokes allow for some blow-by of the unburned oli past the piston to go into the crankcase itself and the valve gear, heat and vapourisation of some of the oil of course helps. There is usually a nipple fixed in the crankcase where excess oil drians off after it has done its job. Initially it was thought that less oil would be required but experience has shown that 20% oil works well and covers any lean runs. Ideally a synthetic with some castor oil works well. Have used this for 25 years.
Great video. My only observation is why do you need a clunk to go right to the bottom of the fuel can . If you had it half an inch short you would of course not be able to use every drop of fuel but you would avoid picking up any sediment that might would have sunk to the bottom of the tank. I do this with a diesel heater in my sons shed and it works a treat using recovered fuel from scrapped cars , trucks and so on.
Solid point. I do have a fuel filter in my fuel line in each airplane - that gets cleaned on the regular. So while I don't filter from the can, I do ensure each engine has a filter installed on the main line to the carb.
Great and helpful video! Would you mind sharing the item number of the spinner you have on your saito? I have the gas version of that engine and not sure what size spinner to get or where to purchase it. Thank you
13x8 or 13x8 is what I use for my .62 saito props. You can order them through towerhobbies.com or horizonhobby.com or motionrc.com - all reputable places (tower and horizon are the same company)
Thanks for this presentation. I will be joining sometime next week. I have been thinking about it for a while and the time has come. I am looking forward to the coming autumn foliage and perhaps cooler weather. Thanks again.
I've since passed the Cub onto another hobbyist, but last I remembered, I had around 2 Oz. (52-ish grams) of nose weight added. It wasn't much to balance the Cub.
Fees, Dues, more fees, more dues. No thanks. Then there is this... If you are not a fixed wing LOS only pilot, forget it. I went to a few club fields to see about joining and was chased out because my fleet includes fixed wing, helis, multirotors and FPV. The last time I went to see about a club field, I had a gun pulled on me because I had a couple FPV multirotors with me. I did have a wing as well but it had FPV on it. That was enough for them to attack. No way I will ever join a club, AMA or anything like that. I won't even associate with anyone that is involved with an RC club or AMA. Don't get involved in clubs or the AMA. They are a joke.
That's a serious bummer being chased out because you love a particular type of flying. Unfortunately FPVs gotten a bad rap at many "old school" locations. There are a lot of supportive pilots at many clubs - so I hope you don't discount the many due to a few nefarious characters you've encountered.
What to expect when visiting: Met by a laundry list of rules and must pay multiple organizations yearly just to play there. Yea, I will just go fly at open fields and be free.
We do have more strict rules at this location but that's due to our proximity to the nation's most restricted airspace: Washington D.C. Our fees for the club are pretty reasonable and they help to maintain what is one of the nicer fields in the region - as we've been told by visitors. As for the AMA membership? Well.... that's because we have to for insurance purposes.
I recently bought my first glow model. An old hangar 9 Funtana with a never started saito 4 stroke on it. Its ready to go i just have no idea what im doing. The last thing i need is fuel and im not sure what to look for🤷♂️
@maybejoshh I've always done Cool Power glow fuel for airplanes. I've stuck with a 10-15% nitro mix and have never gone wrong with my Saito .62. Which is about 15 years old 🙃
I just got gifted 13 nitro planes, one is a great models ultimate with a 1.20 saito 4 stroke, i got a cpl of the OS 2 strokes going but still working on tuning those better, im gonna attempt to get the ultimates 4 stroke going this weekend, ill need some luck 😂
Unless they've been severely punished, I've found most rc engines to be bulletproof. I have faith you'll resurrect them to full working condition. Time to warm up the stove (and open some windows) 😆
Fourstroke glow engine? Thick leather glove, flip propeller clockwise against compression and the engine will come to life if the settings are correct. Never used an electric starter on four strokes.
Thanks for the video! I can't work out why everyone is so focused in putting these fittings in the lid when the can itself is made of thick plastic though. I just used a step-drill to put a hole in the flat shoulder section next to the lid. This works much better as far as keeping the install neat and not twisting up your fuel lines when you're refilling the can. Also, a quick hit with a heat gun (or hairdryer) softens the tygon tubing enough for it to slip right on to the fittings. Once I have eveything laid out it takes less than a minute.
@None - perhaps I've been lucky. In the 12 years of flying with that set up I've never had any backfires or misfires. I'm always checking the prop nut (even as the day goes along) and so far... 👍🏽. On some of my more aggressive aerobatic planes I do have the lock nut and that's because I'm running high RPMs and riding the throttle constantly. With this Cub, I'm flying 1/3 power max, low n slow 🐌 😆
Nice video...a few points - to be safe - At 2:15 you need to say you turn the engine over a few times to get fuel into the engine WITHOUT the glow plug driver attached....At 3:09 you need to refer to removal of the Glow Plug DRIVER .........NOT the "Glow plug". Four strokes can kick or back fire and hydro lock is a reason a lot of four stroke flyers do not recommend using an electric starter on four strokes..it can ruin the engine.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-74dskloEMFg.html
That was actually me. I split it to get a fit started. Wasn't until after that someone said, "Yo, heat that tube up hot before you squeeze it on. It'll make it easier." 😖
I've got the same bird from GravesRC too. My setup was similar, but with a standard outrunner instead. As cables pass very close to rotating can, after repairing it, I plan to replace it with a Turnigy GliderDrive SK3, similar to the MVVS you've shown, but cheaper (it's an outrunner with an enclosure, not an inrunner). The fuse front is narrow and weak (I knew it by the worst way : - ( Fuse is amazinlgy light, though, 170g empty. Wings are HEAVY. The three wing sections, without any gear, weight 1,1kg ! That could be good for the slope, but not for thermalling. I really think they should weight half of that. Manufacturer could include plastic wing connector/joiners instead of a piece of cheap tape for holding wings together. Even this is not an expensive ship, it's not a cheap one neither (US dol $330) She flew nicely, elegantly, almost no trim needed from the very first flight. Flaps needed just a bit of elevator compensation. Butterfly setup slows she down very well for spot landings. Don't expect a thermal star. It's too heavy for that. Watch your airspeed, avoid steep turns or she'll stall. It happend to me, avoiding a tree that insisted facing her before the final turn, when she was slow and low. Wings survived, as one can expect for such strong and heavy construction, but fuse suffered considerable damage, front section looked like a cracked eggshell .
I've been in "large scale" mode for about 2 years now, flying the Cub whenever I get the chance. I have some smaller ones... just haven't gotten them up and running 🙂
I have yet to ever see an airfield that has anything to offer drone pilots. Nothing but a biiiiiiiiiiig open empty field. That's great for LOS flying fixed wings or helis, but drone pilots actually want to fly around things. Especially FPV pilots. I used to go to the air field but why would I pay $75 a year for an AMA and then $50 a year to fly there when I have a big boring 800 acre field right next door.
A lot of your "traditional" clubs won't have much to offer FPV pilots. You're right on the money there. And if your goal is to explore the terrain, almost all will be pretty boring, open fields. I fly near Washington D.C. with the most restrictive airspace in the U.S. - and it's exceptionally difficult to enjoy FPV due to that. Even traditional LOS flying is rapidly becoming increasingly complex with remote ID requirements.
@@theskyllama They need to adapt to the modern tech or die of because the only people I see flying fixed wings out there are all over 80yrs old. If they keep it up it wont be there in 10 years.
I've used a small hose clamp snug enough around plug cap, but not so tight to crush the metal cap, if done too tight can deform cap and it will come off.
Nice video production, great flying also. I have the same plane and engine. Ran into a problem with stalling out below half tank. After trying just about everything, I followed tips that I should try a felt clunk, and it solved the issue. I concluded that the slow flying Piper allowed more sloshing of the fuel below half tank and I was cutting out when it sucked air. The felt clunk acts as a mini reservoir and keeps a more stable fuel flow. Wondering if you experienced anything like this with your setup? Thanks, great video!
I've never experienced anything like that before. However I also tend to not fly below a half tank of fuel. Of course, I get 20 mins of flight from a half tank... 🙄 🙃
