very interesting video. I have a question for you to be able to change the PCM VIN. Did you have to delete the keys from the PATS function and register them again?
Oh man. I changed pcm vin before, it's a mess, I did the pats, then dome how brake control module did not lke the new Vin. I couldn't get it to work. This was on F350. Now, you can't do pats without a locksmith key or dealer access.
Hello Dan I have a thomson freezer ...my freezer have two light ,one green same in you freezer and blue freezer my my problem is my light bulbs burn out ...Could you tell me what the fault would be here? I think it would be the same piece that you present. Could you tell me the part number of the light bulb since my freezer does not have this part listed?
I have the supply hose disconnected ( the forward position line w the hose clamp) just like you in the video.the quick connect ( return) is connected.regardless of how you choose to collect the fluid in reservoir I'm doing what you say which is turn wheels to max turn left and right.Nothing is pumping back into reservoir and the fluid level visible in my supply line is not moving whatsoever.im totally confused in why it's not working the way it should.????
Thank you million times mate, thanks to your video I managed to pull out my aerator easily with the same kitchen fork that you show in your video, amazing tip to save money spending on aerator keys.
Take apart terms regulator ….. a few copper strips there , bend little bit them and you will get good contact …And working regulator is ready to work again :)
If it's useful to anyone else, I found what appears to be an identical pump and hoses to the one used in the video in store at Advance Auto Parts. It's made by Performance Tool, part # W1145, and called "Multi-use transfer pump". Looks like it can be bought considerably cheaper on Amazon as well. Having completed the PS flush myself just moments ago using this video as a partial guide, some comments. The supply hose (the one most forward/nearest to front of car) is the only one that actually needs detached. There's zero reason to detach the rear hose unless you're set on cleaning out the reservoir. The button on the rear hose was being stubborn so I just moved on. I wasn't able to attach my hose to the bottom of the reservoir as shown in the video, so I made an audible. I cut the top off an empty 20oz bottle and used it as a catch below the reservoir where the supply line was attached. I had hoped to use a larger capacity catch but it wouldn't fit. I recommend using some duct tape or something similar to keep the bottle in place. I then placed my pump hose (like the one in the video) into the bottom of my catch (instead of attached to the reservoir itself) and would pump out the fluid regularly to prevent it from overflowing. The process worked exactly as shown in the video, the only difference being the above -- not detaching the return hose, and not connecting my pump to the bottom of the reservoir and using a catch system instead. I recommend monitoring how much you remove from the reservoir and setting that much (and a little more) of the new fluid in advance less you run the risk of not having enough to fill the reservoir when you're done with the flush. I didn't do this and had to drop another $27 on another can at AutoZone. In the video, he uses CHF 11s, which is definitely good to use. However, it's worth knowing that CHF 202 replaced 11s and is also reverse compatible. I only used CHF 202 as it's considerably cheaper and the newer of the two fluids. Both are fine to use, however. One last tip. Indeed, removing removing the supply hose is tough because of the seal that's formed over time. After sliding the hose clamp down off of the plastic nipple, I used a flat head screw driver to gently pry the edge of the hose off of the nipple of the reservoir. Nothing too much, but just enough to break the seal. I did this a few times walking my way around the hose -- I was able to do this to about 50% of the hose. Then, when I gave it a tug it came off on the next try with relative ease.
My guess is the thermo switch, the knob that you turn off and on and set the temp. That switch has a built in thermo sensor and you might have a stuck switch. Are you able to turn if off? I am assuming that when you turn it on and will not shutoff for days.
Dude you're so caught up in trying to make yourself cool by using that Auto meter that you're forgetting about the whole point of the video. Take the damn thing off and show us how to put the other one back on God damn it
looks exactly like the hisense 5.0 cu foot chest freezer i just bought at walmart. i'm trying to find the rough adjustment on the thermostat so i can turn this into a fridgerator
Hey Dan, this was really a good fix. My freezer went down and I tested the relay switch and found that was bad. My green light just shimmer, how I can get your part number for what you bought? It is exactly your model.
Hey . You were right on with testing the thermostat. I tried everything else. Bought parts I didn’t need. Once I jumped the two wires together away the freezer went. Replaced the part and I’m good to go. Thanks.
To answer some questions on how to remove knob/control cover.... Take off knob like stove knob, pull out... Remove but with needle nose long pliers... Then remove side cover to housing unit... You will find (2) screws, very awkward to get out, becareful of the copper pipes. It took several tools for me ... Rachet tool, bent screwdriver, and a lot of patience😳 Hope it helps... I have Kenmore 255.19502010. Update... To access the screw that is away from side better... Laying it on it's side and removing from the bottom is a better way. Just remember after fixing it, to allow it to be upright for 24 hours before turning it on. I actually had my hubby hold ours upright on a tub, so I could access that screw. Likely, will do the same, to close it up. Hope it helps. Be care not to damage light bulb...
Thanks Dan, rather than take the seat out, I followed these instructions to take out the centre console. It worked very well. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BCIt9eIAa24.html
Others have also said to take the wheel off, but as one video shows, you only need to turn the steering wheel to the right once you drive it up on ramps. That provides enough space depending on the size of your tires.
this wheel is a 20 inch and having a ramp is way better for me to service, not sure why to take the wheel out, that's more work, it would have been nice if the oil filter is a drop in from the top and I could have use my vacuum oil extractor, 30 min oil change.
@@DanOfAllTrades Just changed the the oil for the first time and it really wasn't as inconvenient as I thought it would be. I couldn't find my panel puller tool so I used a flathead screwdriver. That worked for the most part. Plenty of room to reach behind the wheel.
@@rkgsd oil filter is in a weird spot, i was trying not to make a mess around the frame, for sure if they sell a oil filter relocation kit, i would get it, instead of side ways
Edgewater Parts W10920279, 61003115 - Refrigerator Compressor Overload And Relay Kit Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore Refrigerators Copied from my amazon order
You’re not gonna find a tamperproof aerator wanna faucet that’s in a typical house you only see them in apartment buildings where are the landlord is paying the water and he wouldn’t want to tennis to take the water savers out. Trust me it’s more of a headache trying to match The space by Bending One of your utensils. Just spend $5 to $13 and buy a tool that removes it. This way if you have the tool, you can remove 4 different styles of aerators
Remember to watch your footing. If you catch some big fish, you might fall off the cliff. Always have a buddy and I usually have a long piece of rope connected to a sturdy rock or a thick tree just in case if I managed to loose my grip off the cliff.
