Always finding Mini Farm DIY Projects and surviving with what we have, learning to be creative and having fun while working together. When things need fixed or repaired, we tackle the jobs ourselves. Being resourceful and skillful to create things that work within our operation of the daily grind. We hope our videos can help you accomplish the same interests and provide you with enough DIY knowledge based on our experience.
Thanks for the reviews, they are helpful. I would say you need to work on the audio. It was not as clear as needs to be. Oh, on a personal note, for a special ni he group, if there is a pool lift, it would be helpful for those traveling with wheelchair folks to know! Good luck, keep on traveling and enjoying life!!
1st time viewer and loved your video. You visited 2 beautiful RV resorts, and I appreciate the effort you put into both tours. Nice family of 4! Happy trails, safe travels, and see you on your next video.
Have you ever had water come in under door after the install from heavy rain? We took a garden hose and sprayed the door to mock a heavy rain. Still have some water coming in?
We have had several heavy rains in the direction of the overhead doors....we had no water coming in under the doors. You might turn your lights on inside your building at night, lay down on the ground to see if you see any light emitting under your doors. I made adjustments to ours to eliminate the light that I seen after the install
I wish I knew how to weld, this is an awesome idea. I’ve had mine for 3 yrs and man that thing is an absolute tank to move around. I keep it in the garage to protect it from the weather.
They are doing exactly as I would expect from a bottom seal....My main concern was keeping the mice and cold air out....I never see daylight from the inside nor do I see the lights under the seal when working outside at night....Great product
After reading these comments, I wondered if you dig down a foot or so within the perimeter of the ring will help. So the fire sits lower. Or since you have lots of rocks on your property maybe pile them higher although I know how difficult it is to pile natural rock and get it to be flat on top.
Thanks for watching...I already knew it needed to be encapsulated to work efficiently due to the larger diameter. It was more about looks for me. I will say that after using it this past fall, the lower holes do allow for plenty of air across the bottom to feed the fire....If you really want a true smoke-free pit, I would totally recommend enclosing the outside of the ring.
I have always had problems hooking mine up, even without quick hitch. left side always like a 1/2 inch too low and I have to pick it up to get pin in. Thanks for the tip! I'll have to check mine out too!!
How many HP is your tractor and how does it handle it? have you had the rippers down with it to bust up the base at all? Looking at the same thing but want to make sure we have enough power to pull it with the rippers down
My tractor is 66hp. I have had the rippers down and does good unless I drop the rippers all the way, then I just spin the tires. Hope that helps and thanks for watching
I've had a pair of the 3 in edge tamers that I use on my 2025r bucket . Didn't use em much last year but I plan to this season . They worked great , especially on grassy areas .
It looks nice. I'm not exactly understanding why you sent through all the trouble, unless you had recieved incomplete info on how to build it. But it looks nice, and I'm sure it can contain a rather large fire for you. Enjoy it.
Really, it was more about the looks for us...we knew it would not work as intended because primarily of the size...but I will say, my fire burns hotter and has better combustion after it has been burning for a length of time and the metal is hot...the holes at the bottom allow for air to move in for the combustion and keeps it burning nicely. Thanks for watching
The correct and accurate way to use your torque wrench is to place your hand on the knurled part of the handle while tightening. And while I am at it, most manufacturers of torque wrenches suggest you turn the setting of your torque wrench to its lowest value when finished with it.
Rick, thanks for your concern but this is not a critical torque...if I was putting a motor together or working on a blueprinted machine I would most certainly use the torque wrench as expected...and I ALWAYS back it off when storing my torque wrenches.....
There are adjustments to raise the cutting edges on one side so that you can keep the center of the driveway higher than the outside edges... some may find it helpful but in most cases, not necessary
As you probably already know by now - you definitely need the enclosure for the secondary burn. It creates a space that heats up the air super hot and pushes that air into and over the existing flames. Smaller holes at the top are better for more pressure and reach, larger holes won't work as well. Diameter of the pit also affects how hot the sides get and height is important too, the narrower and taller the better. Everything is a balance. Pit looks great though.
I am aware of all of your concerns...I knew it wouldn't work and just the size alone makes it inefficient...the fact that it is not encapsulated around the outside, I also knew it would not work as expected....but...it's looks nice and much better than what we had previously....I am always thankful for input because it will help others thinking about the same projects and learn from videos and input
The wagon came from Northern Tool years ago. I am not even certain you can get the exact trailer, but they do have others. It actually has a hydraulic dump but I never used it
That’s definitely a great modification. I do think that they should of added a heavy duty bracket. That connects the fire box to the legs. That’s why the fire box sags on the Oklahoma Joe pits. I’m not saying it’s a bad grill. They are definitely heavy duty quality and produce good bbq. But you for sure do great mod work man.
Have had my Edge Tamers for 2 winters and they work great. If your gravel drive has a crown, use 3, with one at the center, one on each side. You will leave some snow behind under your blade, and with multiple small snow storms, you will leave multiple snow layers that will pack down and accumulate. I have used a box blade and a rear blade to carefully scrape that accumulation down without dragging gravel. They also work great when moving dirt piles, sand or mulch deliveries throughout the year, without gouging up your grass, under the pile of dumped material. Moved 30 yds of organic compost that way last spring. Also lets you use your loader to push all those winter branch blowdown pieces scattered around your lawn into piles, without damage to the lawn. So, dont bury the Edge Tamers in the garage after winter is over. Takes only 5 minutes to put on or take off, and have multiple uses. Much easier to do than figuring out how to put back the sod you hadnt planned on scraping up.
My tractor guy has never heard of edge tamers, is this the real name of them? This would be perfect for when I have re-gravelled my driveway. Did they do any damage to the bucket? Thanks for the video.
Edge Tamers are made by R2 Manufacturing. You can Google Edge Tamers and purchase them on line....they are the perfect solution when you have a gravel drive. It was an easy decision for us over a snowblower due to cost and the fact we just don't get snow often enough to justify the huge expense of a blower. Grader blades still bite into the drive and after driving through the snow with the blade behind the tractor, the tires pack the snow....good luck
I have had my edge tamers on my 1025r for going on 3 seasons now and I would recommend them to anyone. I just put my bucket in the float position a clear my driveway with up to 2 feet of snow. They work awesome and I don't have to rake up a lot of gravel off my lawn. They do work
@@indycountryliving4496 They said they could order it but there would be shipping charges. I think it was was around $300 per implement. Not on the orange since it was in stock. I just went with Woods since local dealer stocked it in neutral color.
I have thought about a windmill. I would like one to pump water for out at the garden. Does this have a speed clutch so it don't blow itself apart in high wind? Good job looks good.
The design of the Windmills are absolutely amazing in how well they were thought out even in the late 1800's. The tail bone is offset from the sail and when the tail bone breaks over in high winds, it actually throws the sail out of the wind slowing it down.....this is also based on the spring tension setting. Its very windy on our property and we have our spring on the light setting. This design keeps the Windmill from overspeeding
@@indycountryliving4496 Thanks for the info. I will have to look into it. I have to finish the 24x40 cold frame\greenhouse I am working on first. I hurt my wrists driving lag bolts and tec screws on it. At the worst time of the year. It is ready for plastic now but the weather hasn't been helpful.
Thanks for the honest review… Have about 75-100 yards of gravel driveway here in SD…. Just ordered some for the tractor and glad to see they are not a waste of $$
when I cook in the charcoal grill (the middle one) with charcoals aty the bottom, the heat goes in to the smoke box and the gas grill. How do i keep the heat inside the middle grill pls? ty
Its a factory design thing.......you would have to seal each chamber but I don't have any recommendations. I know there are a few viewers that have done similar things....I myself don't worry about it and just use the grill as designed. Sorry I'm no help with this question.
I just got this grill and moving it on the porch to exactly where I want it I noticed the slight flex in the smoke box as well. I might need to look into a mod like u have done. Can u get in for a closer view on the welds and wheels u put on it?
Greta video. How do you keep temperature regulated on this unit? I have this combo just bought it in 2021. Temps spike all over the place. Hard to control with the small cook chamber. I’m starting off with half load of lump charcoal, and then I add in wood chunks. (I tried small wood splits but gets way too hot). Anyway. Biggest issue I have is keeping temp around 250-260 and holding it for longer than 10 minutes. I’ll get it to 260ish but it drops within 10 minutes I’ll add a chunk it spikes to 290 and holds for a bit then drops quickly below the 250 mark. It’s a headache.
It's all in the damper settings....I run the air in damper at about 1" and the out damper full most of the time. Yes, everytime you add wood, you will need to close air in damper down a little... Same goes for as fire starts to burn down the temp will drop. I use a wireless thermometer that has a long range of 300ft. I use one probe to monitor grill temp and the other to monitor meat temp. It gives an alarm when the temps are out of range.
@@indycountryliving4496 thank you. I’ll try the damper method next time. I had it open all the way for more oxygen and cleaner burn. I also have a wireless therm for the grill temp and meat temp. For wood, do you: 1) use splits or chunks? (I use splits and then split it down even smaller 2) after lighting with charcoal do you only add wood or continually add a mixture of charcoal and wood? Thank you again!
@@bradpaulp I use logs that are split. I never soak any of the wood in water like others do. After using different variations, I first only used wood....now I use charcoal and not so much wood...I only use enough wood to keep the smoke flavor and to maintain heat.
I'm done with my OJ OFF SET Highlander! It is a full-time job managing the temp. + then adding new sticks but watch out for bad smoke! I have ruined more ribs + the like trying to get it right.So my new Masterbuilt propane smoker just arrived + i can't wait. I know there are strong opinions over what is the ideal fuel.I'm also getting a weber kettle grill for some char-coal cookin as well.
