I know this vid is super old. But I am referring to any info I can find. I am getting major interference from the active noise cancelation. Open any door, and the sound is crisp and clean. You close the door, and you get a low drone like a hum through the subs. Turn the stereo volume down or off. It still stays. I hopped off the outputs for the dual voice coil stock sub. Using a kicker loc with chassis ground and a remote wire. 2011 Escalade esv platinum. My setup is similar to this, except I hopped off the amp because of heated and cooled cup holder drip tray being in the way of the 4 pin connector.
Noise is typically a ground loop somewhere in the electrical system. The Amp needs a clean ground to chassis. Same gauge wire or larger than the power wire to the Amp. No paint where the o ring grounds, scrape any paint off. Use a ground loop isolator on the RCA cables. If nothing helps the Amp could be faulty and try a different Amp to identify the propblem.
@mattsawesomeshow I assumed ground loop as well. Have a good clean chassis ground to the aftermarket amp. The loc ground is good and clean in almost the exact area in the video. Like I said, the drone happens with the vehicle running any of the doors closed and the volume muted only from the aftermarket 12's. But the moment you open a door, the hum/drone goes away, you can physically hear it just disappear. The door is completing a ground circuit that is causing noise interference through the loc and the rca cables. I am an auto tech irl, I have poured over all the wiring diagrams for the radio/nav/infotainment center. Poured over the stock bose amp wiring diagrams. Worst case scenario, I will go to our local car installer and try to solicit some free advice. I am almost curious if the loc is bad.
"Road Noise" from engine running creating audible feedback can be difficult to track down. I used to install car stereo at several car audio shops. Finding the cause can be tricky. In a number of cases we would swap out the battery AND the battery ground terminal to solve the problem. Door open/close indicates the problem is in the electrical system somewhere. I would try an LOC swap with one that has noise filtering. AMAZON sells RCA ground loop isolators. They just plug in with barrel connectors. In some instances we had to re run the primary Amp power wire 8 gauge or 4 gauge down the opposite side electrical of the vehicle. The power wire is not shielded and susceptible to picking up transient noise from adjacent wires and components. If it's on the driver side...take a scrap piece of wire and run it down the passenger side. Hook it up and see if the noise goes away with the engine running. If it works, there's your problem. Tuck it and cover it, good to go.
Great video. My Duramax has drain plugs for everything so I was surprised when I saw our Caddy not having them. Did you do a video on the cabin filter install?
Great video! I did this and it worked fine if i only used 1 RCA.. If i plugged in both RCA's it wouldn't work.. Which was fine so i ran it like that for a couple weeks and then it just stopped working altogether..i checked the RCA cables by swapping them out..i thought maybe it was the amp since it was an old amp.. So i bought a new one and still nothing..i checked the ground it was fine.. It still turns on my amp but no sound comes out.. Any help will be appreciated,Thanks!
I would try swapping cables - try a different Line out Converter. If that doesn't work, it's more likely a speaker output from the radio/amp could be fried. on a whim check the radio "Balance" in the audio settings on the menu and make sure your balance is centered and not to LEFT or RIGHT channels in the menu.
@@mattsawesomeshow thanks will try those.. Just one more thing I thought of..If I unplug the connector I tapped for the converter then the stock sub stops working
Thanks for the video, it’s very helpful. Question on amount of fluid. I pumped out the old fluid , I got exactly 5.5qt. Took the pan down, new filters. I put in 5.25qt new fluid, but the dip stick always shows way past the crosshatch. What I’m I doing wrong? I gave up attempting to read the dip stick.
Thanks for the Vid! On the rear differential at what point should you remove cover and clean out the inside gunk? Also, did you just fill until fluid spilling from the fill bolt on a cold differential, or warm one after driving vehicle? Owners manual is kind of confusing it indicates: “The proper level is from 0.04 inch to 0.75 inch (1.0 mm to 19.0 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level”
@@mattsawesomeshow thanks for the response! Mine is an 07 Escalade AWD also, also should this be done on a cold rear differential or warmed up rear differential?
@4Runner21 I don't think it matters. All depends on how much time you have. Warm fluid viscosity will pour faster, cold takes longer to drain. If you're opening the diff completely then it doesn't matter as you would be wiping with shop towels. I've even heated up with a heat gun to speed it up. 15 mins of driving and immediately opening up will helpm
Mechanic shops use a flush machine which puts pressure on the Transmission which can be catastrophic. This method uses the engine and transmissions own components to flush the fluid out of the transmission. Then you can safely gravity fill with new ATF
Yeah I was told by my pops to never let them put a flush machine because it’ll mess it up and put things were they don’t need to be , my Escalade has exactly 212xx miles and tbh I’m scared to do the flush because I don’t want my transmission to get ruined . Do you think I’ll be okay
@youngbreezy5390 it would be safe to do on your own in my opinion. I would be reluctant to have a shop pressurize your tyranny system with high mileage. This method is safe if done correctly. I think some shops you sign a waiver that if they damage your tyranny doing a flush that you can't sue them.
I was also told that if you do a flush on a high mileage vehicle like mine that it could damage the transmission do you think I should be okay ? Cause I was just thinking about draining the fluid than refilling instead of doing a flush
@@mattsawesomeshow hey Matt changed the oil I'm my Transfer case and front and tear deferentials this afternoon 07 Ext Escalade 233,595 miles and all is well and Thank you again for a Great video..!
Thanks for the video. I had a cts where I let the little things just pile up. Taking a more proactive approach with my escalade. There's nothing "shadetree" about doing your own work. I appreciate things I put effort into taking care of more than I do new things.
i did this same thing on my 2013 escalade, the same as yours but i tan power and ground down the driver side and rca cable down the passenger side but for some reason i’m getting a humming in my subs and it gets louder when i rev up the vehicle but if i open any door the subs stop humming. yk what could possibly be doing that?
Facts a brake job is wheel overpriced if ppl would watch videos like this you will definitely save 300-500 dollars just did my Yukon Denali xl same set up the previous owner didn’t do maintenance on the vehicle but the brake job was very well done once I got to doing the job I just redid everything so I can keep up with my maintenance now that I’m the new owner and do yourself a favor get oem or very well top quality aftermarket rotors and pads this also will make a difference with everything fitting smoothly
Thank you! Because of this I’m bumping my p3 10” sub with a 500 watt Rockford fosgate amp along side the factory Bose system inside my 09 Escalade! I used high quality shielded rbg rca component cables I had from a home theater system I used to have! 💯. Great sound!
Yeah.. Umm.. I don’t know where you got your info from but 13lb ft is too much for these bolts.. The spec sheets I’m looking at is saying 80lb in.. That’s like 7-8lb ft.. Now I gotta extract a snapped bolt because I was foolish enough to not verify this information ahead of time. Hopefully I didn’t screw anything else up watching this video.
Torque spec is directly from GM. Also in dozens of forums and in the Haynes manual. Sounds like you cross threaded and stripped the bolt on your own. So because you "snapped" a bolt it's my fault? You need to have some degree of skill to perform these maintenance tasks. Any number of things could have occurred. Faulty torque wrench, wrong torque setting, stripped bolt, cross threaded, ect. It's a "guide" to perform the maintenance. Always check your year, make, model vehicle to check fill capacities, specs prior to performing maintenance, and most importantly, don't blame the content creator for your own mistakes.
@@mattsawesomeshow No cross threading here. I thought there was an issue with the torque wrench not clicking, so I tested it on a bolt under the hood. Everything worked fine. As I’m tightening the bolts, I’m thinking in my head, “damn, this feels like it might be too tight, what’s going on?” That should’ve been the moment I went on Google and got the correct torque specs. So that’s my bad, I should’ve gotten a second opinion. I understand it’s only a guide but I’ve watched dozens of videos on oil pan gasket replacement, timing cover replacement, timing chain replacement, differential install and removal; I just got done with a pretty intense rebuild on my 07 Escalade regarding the aforementioned. No issues whatsoever; not with torque or anything - I barely had to consult other sources. Maybe somehow the bolts are different from what I have with what you have. But I’m very certain these are not supposed to be torqued to 13ft lbs. I’m looking at them and they’re way too small for that. I have found 2-3 sources saying 80, 89, and 106in lb, which converts to about 7-8, maybe 9ft lb. Which in hindsight would’ve been a perfect torque spec. I’m obviously taking responsibility for this. I should’ve known something wasn’t right when I’m applying that much force to make a seal between two metal parts with a rubber gasket in between. But when it comes to future videos and torque specs, please triple check, that you’re telling your viewers accurate information, ESPECIALLY for torque specs. I watch these videos to mainly get tips and general ideas how something is done. When I hear a content creator mention a torque spec, I’m inclined to trust and believe them without verifying. At this point in time, I’m past the initial frustration I was feeling with this video when my bolt snapped. It was the rear corner bolt that I have relatively easy access to without flexing the exhaust pipe out of the way and/or removing the pan entirely. Just need to find my extractor kit now and drill it out. It’s not the end of the world. Again, maybe the issue was truly on my end but from what I can gather, torque wrench (relatively new) is fully operational, there was no cross threading, all bolts were perfectly fine. The best source I found is 89in lb and to torque in a specific sequence.
This is easier than explained in the video. Only remove 1 bolt from the caliper. Swing and squeeze back after you loosen brake fluid cap for pressure.. clamp tighten with old pad to reset...check your tolerance on rotors before you replace with cheap micrometer. Do t just do lots of work because you can. Put the labor into polishing chrome and ensuring all the little details with this truck are running smooth..
