My name is Evan and I have a problem, I'm addicted to custom vehicles!
On my channel you will find me fixing or reviving new and old cars, trucks, and motorcycles, or sign painting and pinstriping, and sometimes just goofing around. If that sounds like something you would enjoy, your in the right place! I am a Minitrucker at heart, but enjoy everything Custom! I do DIY projects and How-To videos, vehicle repairs, customization and fabrication, along with budget friendly mods to cars trucks and motorcycles! I enjoy anything with wheels and an engine and specifically older cars and trucks. I work on bagged rides, lowered static drop vehicles, and motorcycles as a hobby. Follow along with all my adventures by subscribing to my channel and turning on the bell notification for updates on my latest videos!
☆Email Me☆ evanwells07@msn.com
Thanks for visiting my channel and I hope you enjoy the content!
Evan, thank you for the excellent video. I removed the wipers plastic cover from my 1996 Town Car. I wouldn't have believed there would've been so many leaves. I removed all the leaves and cleaned the housing. I couldn't manage to removed the parking clutch. I did use a whole can of WD-40 Penetrant with the flexible metal tube. The clutch finally freed up. Then I lubed it with the WD-40 Gel Lubricant. It's works like new money! I was about to order a new motor. I still may order a new motor just to have a spare. Right now I'm very happy. I had to go drive in the rain to use my wipers.😂 Thanks again!
Lol you will need to do some welding if you want it all clean looking, but there are plenty out there that just chop it all up and leave it. Maybe a good time to get a welder and start practicing! The rest is fairly straight forward stuff. Nothing too crazy.
Really like your build!!! Love the slick look you give it with the led switch back. Would you mind teaching us how to wire them, properly needs a relay. I could also use the link to those led switch back :) Thank you once again!
Thanks! You are right, the switch back lights need a new relay to work with them, but there isn't really any major wiring involved. Just replaced stock components with the LED stuff using all the factory wiring.
@@EvanWells07 do you have a link to the relay, I’m following your build when it comes down to lights. I also have no idea how you turn out the original rear fender into this piece of art. I’ve been looking at it all day today and I don’t know how I’m going to do this
The relay is just a generic LED flasher from eBay. I try not to post links since they aren't permanent links. If you haven't seen my newest video on the bike I go into a lot more depth on both the fender and the lights.
Hey Evan, where did you get the carburetor from? I’ve already bought two from eBay both 15mm for a stock Honda nc50 and they didn’t work. Would you what size jet it has?
All the carbs I have got for it were from eBay. I have played with several combinations of carbs and jets. I will have a new video out soon where I do some more upgrades and play more with jetting.
THis has been super helpful for me to understand the steps needed to fix my lincoln, i just want to be sure the bolts i tighten down in the transmission area are on point.
When you take the 3 connectors off the part, do the simply pull right out, or is there a connector snap that holds the connector in. Seems I pull, but the connector will not pull out. Woe is me.
I got my 1989 Yamaha virago running but it will only run on the front cylinder while the rear cylinder runs just barely and cuts in and out constantly. I tested and found that it isn't getting enough fuel and is very inconsistent. I've gone through the carburetors a bunch of times with no luck. What would you think it could possibly be?
@ZmanAdventurez88 I would make sure the float setting is spot on. Otherwise make sure there is no restrictions in the supply for fuel to that carb. Those are the two things I would start with anyway.
@@EvanWells07 I will double check the float level. I saw you had trouble with that in your past videos so I will see if that could be a problem. The float bowl gets plenty of fuel I noticed but the fuel just isn't getting up into the combustion chamber. The jets are all clean and everything seems good there. The next thing I was gonna try to do is back out the fuel mixture screw on the top to see if I can richen it up a bit to get it to idle properly without cutting in and out.
@ZmanAdventurez88 have you blown compressed air through the passages when they are off and apart? Could be some debris in the body of the carb that's causing restriction as well. If you have them off again it's worth a shot.
@@EvanWells07 I'll do that. Currently I have the carbs on the bench going through it again. The bike sat for 3 years outside with old gas sitting in the bike. I found a lot of nasty stuff in the carb and gas tank. I was surprised it fired up after the first cleaning I did. I just have to get it dialed in and properly tuned. The rear cylinder still cuts in and out and after riding it for 3-4 minutes the rear cuts out entirely and won't come back on. This is my 5th or 6th time pulling the carbs off the bike in the past 2 weeks.
Hi, I have a 2008 Lincoln MKX. We change the in and out speed sensors. Now the car only wants to drive in reverse. Can someone give me any ideas of what we did wrong or what we need to do.
Is it always in reverse? Is it setting any codes? You may not have got the shifter components put back together properly. That would be the only thing I could think of.
@@EvanWells07 hi thanks for responding, yes it’s always on reverse and no codes at all. Do I have to remove everything to fix it or is there a way to do it from the top?
@1979pielcanela it sounds like the shift linkage inside the transmission was probably not installed correctly. That piece towards the end of the video (when I'm installing the valve body) that I show sliding back and forth was probably not lined up and not engaged with the shifter linkage. That would cause the transmission to always stay in reverse.
My edge does the same lurching but I’ve tried a few scanners none of them are geting a connection to the Tcm (no codes) ran and drive perfectly no flaws just stoped moving no noise or nothing stopped at a stop sign and went to go Nothing happened I highly doubt the clutches went bad but I’d love to hear your opinion these seem cheap enough to replace 🤷🏻♂️
Is it setting the wrench light or have any messages like in the beginning of the video? It may be the sensors, and like you said it's cheap and easy enough to replace, but may not fix the problem. The sensors (when they act up) will always throw a code.
Ya got that nice "Hot for Teacher" beat soundin' off at an idle.. 😎 I'm kinda trippin' that there's only two bolts holding the rear fender on, or at least that's what it looked like.. You'd think it'd be bouncin' quite a bit.. Does it stay pretty steady mounted like that?.. 🤔 Outstanding build!.. 🤘
Thanks! Yeah only 2 bolts on the fender, it moves a little, but not much at all. I made a newer video where I show it all better, and how I did most of the other mods to it, if that's something your interested in.
I replaced the housing (yay). Charged battery for 15-20 minutes. Idled 30 min, drove 40 minutes . Car ran fine. **Today, the WRENCH light came on after 2 miles. First time. unable to accelerate. Turned car off for 15 min. It was fine and I came home. Could I have messed something up? Other vids say to try cleaning the Throttle Body. Any thoughts? (...and i was feeling so proud of me😅)
The wrench light could be any number of things, but I doubt it's anything to do with your repair. The throttle bodies are pretty common on these for issues, but there should be a code stored for whatever caused it. I would start by reading the code and go from there.
@@EvanWells07 thanks again. Just left AutoZone and the mechanic said that by unplugging everything it just forced a diagnostic and probably cleaning the throttle body should do the trick.🙂
@tonyyoung6738 was it dark? Did it smell burnt? Besides the sensors, I think these had issues with the valve body warping, though I've never had to repair one for that, so I'm not sure on the symptoms. I know the "shift improver" kits for these are a bushing and resized piston for one of the valves that wears out over time as well. Otherwise it may just be time for a new transmission.
Had it ever been serviced before? It's hard to say without seeing it and doing some testing, but it may be worth a shot to try a new valve body. Just know that the transmission may still need rebuilt or replaced, so it's a gamble.
Finally finished my repair. Minor delay with a snapped bolt when I was putting the valve body back in. but 08 edge is back on action. Thanks again for the video.
He doesn't show how to remove the vacuum line cover, he doesn't highlight or point to exactly where he connected the tool, he doesn't explain if there's anything else that needs to be plugged up before we hook up the tool. he doesn't show how he hooks up the tool.
He is ME. I don't show most of that because not all bikes are the same. I show in several of my videos using the tool I made and since the hoses are bright yellow, figured it's fairly easy to follow where they go to. It is just hooked to a vacuum source behind each carb (mine has a small brass nipple on the intake boots from the factory for this reason). Unless you have an 88 virago 1100 I can't guarantee that any info I did share would apply anyway. It's generalized to apply to more people. It really isn't this hard. Step one: hook the lines up to vacuum BEHIND the carb. Step 2: start the bike and warm it up. Step 3: make adjustments. I like to hold mine off idle (somewhere around 2k) but also check at other RPMs. Step 4: finish making any other adjustments (idle speed, mixture settings, etc...) That's it. Your done at that point.
😢I am still confused. I built the bottle sync tool, but I don't understand where the lines are connected. How did you remove the vacuum line cover??? 😢 i have a 1997 Yamaha virago 1100.
I'm not sure what you mean by vacuum line cover? My bike has a small brass nipple behind each carb that has a rubber plug over each one. You just pull those off and hook up the lines. Your bike is also much newer than mine, so I'm not sure how close they are in that regard. Yours may have a completely different design.
I just acquired an 85 virago myself, 750cc im interested in straight pipes but not overly knowledged on carbs. Is there a certain jet kit i require? How do i tell what jet sizes i will need for straights? I don't wanna lean the bike out and melt a cylinder. thanks!
Tuning and jetting will vary, there isn't any set numbers. It all depends on condition of the engine and other things done to it. I have a bunch of videos on this bike talking about all the things I've done to it and specifically rebuilding the carbs and tuning it. Hope that helps, and have fun with the new project!
No, but only because I didn't buy an adapter for those controls. They make a separate thing you would also need to install for that. I just use the remote that came with the radio.
Looked at your video again and see where the crank shaft is pointing downwards towards the driver side. So I followed your instructions. Cleaned all parts and applied plenty of grease. And now the wipers park in the correct position. Thanks
Thanks for your help. Replaced the wiper motor with a scrap yard motor from a 2000 MGM. Wiper works in all speeds. When it parks, the crank arm pin is facing towards the passenger side. So I attach the wiper linkage and the wiper blades force downwards into the plastic housing instead of sweeping upwards across the windshield. In the park position should the crank arm pin be facing the driver side as viewed from the front of engine? Thanks
I made them myself. There is a more in depth showing of them on my newest video about the bike. I talk about all the major mods I did to it, and how I did them.
Thank you very much man. I was my car no speed the problem. I just the buy transmission flush and P0720 and P0722). My fix all changes so my car ready run and happy. Thanks man great about video
They are basically washers, but very specific machined washers, or plastic ones. The thickness raises or drops the needle position based on what's needed.
I have been meaning to do that, but I haven't worked on this truck in a while. When I get back to it I will make a video like that. Meanwhile there are several other videos on this truck.
If it was something that I needed big power for (stereo, lots of lights / accessories) I would be more concerned about that, but since its a mostly stock truck that I'm just trying to improve overall performance, I'm not that worried. From the factory they mix and matched sizes, so it will be fine.
According to the service manual. When the multifunction switch is moved to the off position, the wiper motor will continue in low-speed mode until the wiper motor reaches the parked position. As my wipers don't work in low or intermittent, the wipers will never park properly. Have to fix that problem first. Thanks.
I have a 1995 Olds 88 LS … inherited it from my great mother recently after she passed… nobody wanted the car! 64,098 original miles, she bought the car new and had every service done… though as you can tell by the mileage, it sat a good bit of its life and needs quite a bit I fear, runs and drives perfect, tires are bad due to age etc. AC controls are busted, stuck on frost and I’ve had a mechanic “fix” the AC 3 different times! lol anyways, absolutely solid cars, the whole reason I jumped on it lol. Still smells brand new, never smoked in 👍🏼
They really are solid cars! The first thing i like to do (really with any vehicle I get) is give them a really in depth inspection, and make notes on all the things that are worn, aged, or questionable, especially if it's been sitting for a while. That way as you start driving it again, nothing will sneak up on you, like blowing out an old hose, or plugged fuel filter, and you can address them as you go. I don't remember on those if the a/c had vacuum controls, or if they were actuators at that point, but it sounds like there is an issue there if it's blowing from the defrost. Good luck with fixing it up, and glad your giving the old ride another chance! Most people send these 90's cars to the junkyard since they never held their value.
@HashMaster1776 I totally get that! I always seek out the deals or fixer uppers, so most everything I own has 150k plus. For me to have something under even 100k miles is a "new" car to me!
I replaced tss and oss in my edge 2008 but I got the wrench light on and hard shifting after the replacement. Will this dissappear with time? I mean is this because the computer is still relearning or there is something wrong? I still get the same code p0715 that I was getting before the replacement.
@Watchandfix there isn't any relearn or anything after these that needs to happen. For it to set the code again it would need to see an issue, so it's possible the sensor was defective out of the box, or there is another issue causing it.
Definetly worth the try. Tried 93 multifunction switch(wiper 6pin side) as well as module from 55000k 93 without sucess. 93 motor has two connectors Leaning towards new motor for $100. In the meantime those Mercury Blues continue. Thanks
Finally got the clutch off the 93 and onto the 99. Didn't work for me. According to wiring diagram there are two switches inside the motor. Power between common pin 5 and low speed pin 6 as well as high speed pin 7. Only high speed works.
Hey thanks for the video. Could you message or drops link for the part numbers of the sensors. My google searches are showing a lot of different ones but I want to make sure I am picking the right ones before I order them.
I thought I showed the numbers I used in the video, but you will also want to verify the correct ones for your application. They may (or may not) have changed over the years.
Yes I totally understand we do these things because there hard if it was easy we wouldn't do it..but it's what us men do my Mrs said to me how do I remember where it all goes to...I said I don't hahaha
23.41pm still on the go..got the carbs out..ffs hahaha stripped one side its completely full of crap mikuni carbs wish I never started this now...I don't know what to clean first of course been watching your videos along the way I've also found a broken bolt in the ceilinder head on one of the carbs rubber colore ffs..hmmm....Time for a coffee ☕️ & cig ...bloody bikes anyway I know how you feel note mate 👍🤪🤣....just nicked my Mrs spare toothbrush 🪥....oh lovely that will clean my carb..lovely hahaha
Lol it's hard to understand until you have done them, but I had days / weeks / months in making those videos. They are such a pain! Wish I would have switched to a single carb years ago, but it felt like a personal challenge to make them work at all costs! Good luck! You will get there!
