Your typical Midwest outdoorsman who enjoys gaming and making a fool of myself. I try to put out new videos that will upload every few days. Subscribe for updates!
I am not sure if you are still monitoring this video or not, but does this relay also send power to the heating element? I ran test 6 and get Bimetal closed, but it still doesn't defrost and I get no power to the wires going to the heating element. One thing was to test wattage with a kilowatt meter during the defrost and get 345w but I only get around 14 watts during the defrost cycle. It seems like the heater is just not getting power to from the power supply.
I read all the comments, but I haven’t hear anyone complaining to whirlpool for using cheap relays on their refrigerators, whirlpool use to be the best appliance manufacturers, that’s the reason I have a non electronic whirlpool refrigerator. All that technology is prone to more issues, and I would like to add something, when you test a defrost thermostat it might check ok , but when the heater come on , it might not resist the load and open prematurely, so every time I have a defrost issue I replace the defrost thermostat
I read all the comments, but I haven’t hear anyone complaining to whirlpool for using cheap relays on their refrigerators, whirlpool use to be the best appliance manufacturers, that’s the reason I have a non electronic whirlpool refrigerator. All that technology is prone to more issues
Man, thanks so much to you and Stephen Rhine for this. I had tested my thermostat and heater and came to the same conclusion of a bad board, then ran across Stephens article. I was having a hard time de-soldering the relays and came across this video. I took your suggestion and ordered some Chipquik and it worked like a charm. Now I'm up and running with nothing out of pocket, waiting for my relays from China to get the lights back. Thanks to both of you for saving me at least $600 !
Great Post.. Fixed my Whirlpool also but we had the exact model number..The US equivalent of the relay in the video is G5Q-14-DC12... I bought them through Mouser Electronics part number 653-G5Q-14-DC12 and received them within 2 days. So you dont have to wait on part to come from China... Installed part and all is good. Thanks for the video.
Same refrigerator, same problem for about the last 6 months. Ordering the relays now to fix it without needing to regularly manually defrost the freezer myself. Thanks for making this video!
Thank you for this video. I had the exact same issue I was troubleshooting. The relay you linked worked like a charm and my whirlpool is defrosting normally again! You saved me hundreds of dollars!
I also appreciate this! I just (erroneously ) replaced my evaporator fan motor, foolishly thinking the noise it was making was bad bearings in the motor. Finding that big ice buildup growing into the blades clued me that my problems weren't over. I should have suspected the heater, as that is usually the problem on fridges. After this, I went into the diagnostic mode, #6, (for the heater) and it came up with error code 03, which I believe is a Short. This is not indicated on the Tech Sheet, but on other items 03 is a short, hope this is a correct assumption. So I just ordered a Heater, #WP12729128 so when it gets frozen up again, I will have the heater ready to go.
great video and explanation! Didn't you have to reprogramm the board ? I am installing a new board on a WHIRLPOOL model WRF555SDFZ which have no code in the label, so I don't know if I have to reprogramm it or not. I would greatly appreciate it if you give me some advice on this. I am doing the job tomorrow and asking all around for some information on what to do. Thanks in advance, Ramon Perera, Miami
I have a Whirlpool but different model WRT318FMDM00. I do have a defrost issue where evaporator coils are freezing up. Both fan and the thermistor are good. If I go to diagnostics, and turn on the heater mode (manual defrost mode)... the coil is heating up. Is the relay good in that case? I don't believe these models come with a timer. What else can I look into?
I have a fridge with the exact same issue. This model does not have a mechanical timer. The timer is solid state on the mainboard and, if it goes bad, there is no fix other than complete board replacement from what I can discern.
@@cvr24 Thank you for your response. I will stop looking for that timer component :). I concur with. your opinion except it might be possible to just replace only the component that is bad on the board ... just as in this youtube video. Only we need to know what the component is responsible there. I will try to remove the board and see for any obvious signs of it. In the mean time, I am resorting to a manual defrost.... which is working fine at the moment.
Hemanth, what did you end up doing to solve your freezing up issues? I am working to fix this myself, as this stuff is all new to me. Did you replace just the relay?
Heads up against my 2000 Saturn SC2 anytime. I'll smoke your ass with 1.9L just cause I could powershift your dumbass into dust. Neither one of us is going to break 90 mph in the quarter anyway. I'll probably have to take out the 400 pounds of tools I have in it though. And put in a quart of oil cause my ring seal is 'less than optimum'
Hey man…I appreciate you taking the time to do this… I just replaced my thermistor for the same reason but I suspect my board relay may be bad actually after watching your video. Thank you so much for putting this info together with the links to buy it. I’m about to plug it in and test and hopefully it’s fixed but if not…I’m going straight to relay. Cheers.
Thanks to this video and the article linked I was able to fix my fridge with this same issue. Grateful to have only spent like $30 instead of $700. One tip I picked up is that you can skip cutting the thermostat out to test it. If you run diagnostic test 6 and it’s an 02 while the freezer is frozen, the next step is to use a continuity tester on the main board as described in the linked article. This will show the true state of the thermostat, and if they disagree, my understanding is that your relay is bad. Which is a much quicker diagnostic than cutting out wires or even opening the back of the freezer. Also, follow the guidance and get chipQuick and a solder sucker. It worked a charm and seems necessary. Wish I could buy OP a beer.
Had replaced the big relay a couple of months ago to get my fridge cooling again but then every 2-3 weeks it kept freezing up like you described. Had no idea about the diagnostic mode. Test 6 failed and I had another relay from the previous repair kit I had bought. Swapped it out and test 6 passed. I was almost about to buy a new fridge. I think you just saved me a lot of money. Thank you!
you bought a base model tf are you even talking about you have no touch screen and no radar camera where the rear view mirror is therefore you have normal cruise control like every other car you don't know wtf your talking about no one buys base cars
Its obviously bexayse yoyr in manual mode see how it say m6 in the lower right, meaning 6 th year i do uf ur in manual mode on purpose or u accidentally bump the paddles or something but thats why cruise isn't working
I had the same exact issue and on the data log it showed throttle drops during WOT and I was also getting a knock. All I did was cleaned the fuel injectors, cleaned the throttle body, installed 2 catch cans (CCV & PCV), changed the spark plugs and air filter. It took me a while to figure it out as I had no CEL pertaining to it but now I don't have any issues.
So much misinformation in the comments, don’t blame the tuner, if the tune had problem it will cause problem as soon as you load the tune onto the car, in the video we don’t have any of that information, is more likely because the owner didn’t install an oil catch can and it leads to lowering octane and spark knock, and we don’t have any information on his maintenance history, so don’t be so quick to judge the tuner, certainly don’t take serious advice from keyboard tuners on RU-vid comment section, ask a local reputable shop.
What the fuck .. I broke the engine from racing in my 10 CTS 3.6 performance ed.... I'm looking for an ats now can't afford a V, but this makes me wanna turn my head on it now...
Never use a canned tune, NEVER!!!!! Get a tune done on a dyno, in the area you live in. Make sure the hood is closed during the tune too, because to many idiots tune on the dyno with hood open and that's not the proper why to do it, not to mention letting all the natural heat build up escape with the hood open. You don't drive with the hood open, why tune/dyno that way?... Hood open dyno tubes are good for one thing: sitting in a parking lot at a gathering with "the hood open".... Proper dyno tunes use your local weather and conditions, whereas mail-order does not. Very dangerous. Even doing live drive tube files and emailing back and forth is bad!!!! It's just not safe. Also, with a hood open on the dyno, this is how tuners show power gains with aftermarket CAI's, which is total bull. Aftermarket CAI's are fairly useless on 90% of vehicles. Most canned mail order tunes are done at odd cities, with far different weather, climate and elevation than the customers location, and when you put a tune on from a very different area, the ECU is going to try to compensate naturally and then you have a recipe for KABOOM.
