I would love for you to join me while I hunt and fish in the beautiful State of Maine and show some of the gear I use while in the woods and on the water.
I have an ATS 30 and noticed when casting the knob is so heavy that it swing forward and locks the reel. I noticed other large knob handles have a weight on the other side and the ATS does not. I'm not sure if it will help. Any ideas?
Dont get your reels wet there is no reason to do that it silly unless its salt spray from a boat . I have been fishing for over 30 years i have never put a reel in salt water .
Hey great video, i just recently bought 2 of these reels and combined it with a medium heavy berkly big game. They seem to be a good well rounded reel with multiple uses.
It just depends how you take care of your reels,...rinse it up with tap water and oil/grease it when you get home..I got penn reels and still good,rinse and lubrication is to get rid of saltwater turning to corrosion
Yooo that's beautiful catch, I done some off river fishing and caught a shockingly good sized, I can't wait to see them on boating waters beautiful fish!
Great video. Not so easy to film...I will be filming some more with my setter this week! Great days when you are in the field behind a bird dog! Keep up the good work.
I have used mine 4 times and the internal big gear is completely loose, I had caught a fish with it and when I set the hook and started reeling it in. It would not reel in and was clicking really bad.
My saltist locked up and I tossed it a few days ago. Having a physical anti reverse switch and poor physical seals over make it extreamly vulnerable to water intrusion. The new saltist mq has my attention however I’m probably going to pick up a few of those. Unless I end up going Saragosa. 🤔
Did you really mean Penn slammer (2) or (3)? Saltist wise Ferro mag seal is not cheap, costs at least $30 bucks for a tiny bottle 5ml and you cant pick it up at your local fishing store, Daiwa only sells their ferro mag oil to a few authorized Dealer/Repair centers and if you use non Daiwa brand Ferro mag oil your warranty is shot. Basically Daiwa wants to do a yearly repair to make more money but if you dunk the reel it needs service much sooner. if you incorrectly assemble the side plate your reel is void of warranty. Saltist assembly requires a special tool to open the side plate vs screws and when you do so it has to be done perfect or it leaks. The special side plate also has a secondary seal issue with the reel handle that allows water to get to the main gears. All that being said lets talk main gears. Daiwa Oversize is great but brass is better. Penn now even has Stainless steel in their slammer 4 DX. Daiwa are fussy BMW's that kill you in the shop with repair costs and Penn is more a heavy duty SUV
I had the Slammer 2. I don’t believe the Slammer 3 was out yet when I was shopping. I had not heard of the Ferro Mag oil, but that is good to know. What have your experiences been with the Slammer 3? I haven’t heard much about them or their performance.
@@bhandzel014 I Own 4 slammer lll reels and had no problems . Watch the 2018 You tube from tackle advisor who breaks down every part of a Slammer 3 vs the Saltist. A second You tube by the same person places a Slammer 3 under water for an extended period then brakes the reel down looking for water inside and finds none. You simply get more for your money with a Slammer 3 but the Slammer 3 is a tighter sealed reel so it has a tighter minimal drag vs the Saltist . Some tried to use the Slammer 3 as a live bait reel or for chunking bait placing in a rod holder vs holding in hand and felt the reels minimal drag was to tight . A slammer 4 and 4 Dx model with Stainless Steel gears was then recently made Slammer 3 are basically cross over reels for heavy surf, jetty, boat and kayak applications where you know your going to get the reel dunked and need massive drag to handle massive species in each situation. slammer 3 are older models now so they sell for up to 1/2 off these days. 4500 Slammer lll at bass pro shops was $150.00 . My 5500 Slammer lll handled a 240 lb class Eagle ray with no problems and my 10500 has taken down some giants including big bluefin tuna, ulua, Trevally , sharks, grouper. Saltist wise got two as gits. They are very smooth reels that cast well with nice line lay but maintenance has been a complete bummer. 4 years of service cost was more than the reel itself. Out of warranty and feeling we had paid enough, we broke down the mag sealed Saltist our self and had to go find Ferro mag oil and special tools . Costly and a pain to find the right ones and even then the mag seal did not handle the heavy surf . We rebuilt the two Saltist our self and now use them as back ups for light Salt applications tossing lures and for bigger freshwater species like river Salmon and striped bass fishing in the California Delta , but will not use them again in heavy Salt water. Daiwa was not the easiest to work with on service despite the cost and we had to wait quite a long time to get our reels back. We even had 1 Saltist serviced incorrectly with a explanation that a Tech blew it but got Zero compensation . The Slammer 3 reels have never needed to go to Penn as their easy to maintain. $$$ wise if you need a cheaper Surf reel that works well for non dunking applications check out the Slammer v which sells for about $70.00 these days and for dunking Slammer 3 run $150.00 to $240.00 depending on the model size.
@@jimbo4612 I think you’re talking about the saltist MQ that has a special side plate. The Saltist in this video requires no special tool to open. Also the magseal only needs to be checked only a handful of times each year, and 5ml is well enough for at least 50 uses. Not saying it’s any easier to get a Daiwa serviced compared to other brands, but the trouble is not that overwhelmingly hard, as long as you can comfortably service a typical spinning reel.
I would say stainless gears could be a big problem with galling. Not sure, but just doing some stainless threaded pipe at work recently with teflon (lubrication) and pipe dope, and was still having the threads stick. That is my only knock on stainless gears but is yet to be seen how they play out. I'd rather just go with brass, as they are definitely strong enough.
@@jtoker9758 The DX stainless only runs 30 more than more than the regular Slammer 4 with brass. The Dx model however does have a Extra Bearing in the spool which makes the extra 30 bucks a really good deal. The DX are also accessible now. supply was limited for a while. If you surf fish for really big species and want full submersion ability you can get some other great reels for less than a $100 more . Even seen some Van Staal in the 5 hundred range. Question is really what your planning to fight and under what conditions. Some of the fish I'm hunting on spinning gear like bluefin tuna are tough to pull out out of their pinwheel as they come to the boat hence the reason for the DX. Trying Florida goliath grouper soon and will see what the DX does
I had that same reel until a seagull stole it. I had my rod and reel sitting there unattended for no more than 2 minutes then a seagull hit the line dragging it out to sea. R.I.P. It was a good reel but got a little rough turning within months. Never dunked and sprayed with fresh water after each use. Not sure if its worth the price. Wouldnt buy it again unless its half price. Ive had better luck with cheap gear. Landed multiple 40+ inch striped bass on cheap gear with no issues.
Well at least you have a good story!! 😂 I’m surprised how many people have said they have had issues with them. I’m on my 3rd season with this reel, and have no issues at all even though I have routinely dunked it in salt water.
Magseal makes the reel splash resistant but isn't worth a damn if you dunk the reel. Odds are you lost most of the hydrophobic fluid the first time the reel was dunked. You would be better off with a spinfisher. If you plan on swimming with the reel then it's cheaper to just buy a VS VR, then replacing a 200$ reel every 2 or 3 years
Magseal oil itself won’t leak unless emulsified or breached. If he said it still “spins like new” after the time he owned it, safe to assume that the seal worked in his case.
@@hanfei6871 Magseal is nice, but it's not as groundbreaking as Daiwa makes it out to be. It's protects against for spray from a light splash until it wears out which depends on usage. Water under pressure is a completely different story. Once its dunked the fluid is gone and Daiwa will tell you that too. It's not cheap to replace either, close to 100$ per reel. I'm not saying it's useless, but its definitely doesn't replace a physical rubber seal. It's nice to have an effortless handle turn with free spin, but a little resistance is a small consolation for having confidence that the reel isn't going to fail when I need it.
@@hanfei6871 Because you replied to me, saying it's safe to assume that the ferrofluid barrier protecting that AR clutch is still intact because it feels like "new" to this guy. If that reel has spent half the time he claims it has under the suds that barrier is gone.
It's a completely unsealed reel. The gear box will have salt water and corrosion inside after one use in the surf with just getting splashed. Yes it has mag sealed bearings but the internal gears will corrode immediately after one use. I know this through first hand experience using the saltist and taking it apart. You have to take it all apart and flush it with fresh water after every session. The gear box plate has no seal like other reels do.
I fish my saltist 4500 alongside excense BB 4000 - both reels are “unsealed” at the bottom seam but I never had issues with them. They’re cleaned and lubricated after each trip. Mainly do shore jigging in the surf and on the rocks so I do get a couple good splashes every trip and they still worked fine. I find people’s experience with reels in this price range polarizing.
@@jtoker9758 Yea but the BB is probably the best reel at that price point Daiwa has, especially since they made the mistake of pulling the Ballistic LT off the market. The forged AL main Daiwa reels are some of the smoothest reels reels I've ever used and they stay that way if your careful.
saragosa have rubber seals protecting the internals from water intrusion so is definitely better but keep in mind on the downside of having rubber seals. Every time you take the reel apart for maintenance or clean you do have to becareful on sitting them properly or you could damage them and will eventually have to replace them over period of time when it start to decay (depending on how you take care of your reel).
i used to love penn slammer 3 until i noticed about the main spool shaft being stripped when adjusting the drag for period of time of use. You can take out the spool and inspect the tip of the thread. you will see that it will be thinner than the bottom at least in my case. The metal screw inside the drag knob has more hardness than the main spool shaft (titanium coated) so its start to eat away the threads on the shaft as you adjust your drag when fighting fish. Therefore the drag will not work as efficient as before. I got mine replaced after 6 months of used until you cant tighten your drag at all and the new one I ordered also started to get erode by the drag knob. I wished it was stainless steel instead of whatever alloy with titanium coating they used. not so sure about the penn slammer 4 coming this september.
I think these are better than the Saltist. Well I have the saltist back bay and the body of the reel isn't sealed, whereas the two penns mentioned, are. Not sure if this type of saltist is sealed in the main body. Main body being sealed is pretty crucial as there are plenty of cracks for the salt water to get in on the body.
@@davesiu680 Its not titanium coated, its coated titanium lol, which is a big difference. It's not a big deal imo if the shaft is titanium or SS. They are both equally strong, titanium is just lighter. The slammer 3s did have some QC issues. Sometimes seals werent installed correctly or damaged during assembly which is probably why some people had issues after dunking the reel. The threading may be defective in the dragknob so I would reccomend calling penn and telling them about the issue to see if you can get a new drag knob at a discount or free.
@@jtoker9758 No I'm about 95% sure the Saltist doesnt have a perimeter seal. They're good reels, but if you take a good splash or wave and dont experience issues in the immediate future you got lucky. When you rinse the Saltist or any Daiwa you tighten the drag down. It helps compress the rubber seal at the rotor.
@@bhandzel014 Mag seal is a bit of a gimmick, it's not really doing anything a good o-ring seal can't do. However, see this as to what your problem may have been ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LHuJ-nPEDQk.html
@@andrewmorke I have a Penn slammer III and after using it over 2 years im putting it in a closet and getting a shimano reel,I don’t complain about how “sturdy” it feels but I do complain when the handle just breaks off like butter in the middle of a fishing day
