My name is Mike and I am a native Utahn who is a mechanic by trade. I love most things mechanical but especially Jeeps, coaches and hot rods that I work on in our home shop.
My lovely wife and I enjoy traveling in our RV and finding off-road areas to explore in our Jeep as well as cruising around in our Fifth Gen Camaro.
what do you think of Elring klinger brand for the gasket? Are the cover bolts required and do they have any rubber component in the bolt itself? Thnak you for the video
I have no personal experience with those gaskets so can't comment. If memory serves that style gasket sealed around the fastener and did not require grommets around the bolts. Can't remember specifically as it's been a while. Sorry
Hey Mike, Watched your video in greater detail today. I would like to see what / how you redid the vent/return line. I had a suspicion that was going to come back to bite. I am ordering my FASS pump today or tomorrow. I put on on my 2006 Duramax. Worked well. I have already replaced the lift pump on my 99 Monaco Windsor because it was leaking. I too don't like sucking fuel to a "pump".. isn't pump the definition of push? I see you made mention of your picts on IRV2 and Monacoars of which I am a member, but I am not sure how to find your info. Again, thanks for your time and details. I probably won't be quite as elaborate in my bracket mounting, but rest assured it will be solid. If I have to go to your lengths, I most definitely will. On another subject, and I know think you are familiar. I want to make a bracket to be able to adjust my steering stabilizer while driving. Seems like something simple enough, and useful. I thought I saw where you have chatted with another member regarding that? I am going to check out your video on flat towing your jeep. I flat towed mine up to Yellowstone without a guard and did it ever get pitted by all the small gravel "chip" finish roads. 👍👍👍👍
Both on irv2.com and monacoers.org my username is zmotorsports. If you search under that and FASS you should find the pictures as I did follow up on both showing the revised fuel tank vent that I fabricated. As far as steering stabilizer, I didn't waste my time with that and just fabricated a Watts link for the front. I also have a couple videos on that modification. Thanks for taking the time to watch. Mike
@@zmotorsports62 Thanks for getting back so quickly. Good morning Mike, I guess I am always looking for that elusive "how can I make it better?" I did watch your videos on the Watts linkage install also. And then proceeded to install the front Watts linkage and rear crossmembers from Mike Hughes @ MonacoWatts. I also installed the Safe T Plus. I was a truck driver for 25 yrs and have become accustomed to how I want my rig to steer down the road. The addition of an adjustable on the fly mechanism on the Safe T Plus seems like it might be a way of reducing driver fatigue. I still get pushed around a bit by passing trucks, wind, and the slope of the highway. Just looking to see if I can add this to my tool box. I was also wondering how much more benefit, in steering, you are getting because of the tag axle? I realize that must have some effect on the stabilization. On another note. The previous owner had a PacBrake exhaust brake installed. He also add a Banks Ottomind programmer, which also incorporates EGT and boost gauge. It was obviously NOT installed by Banks. The sensor for the EGT is supposed to be mounted in the rear exhaust port, it is currently located 8" behind the turbo. One of the "things" I do is "look over" my coach to check for visually occuring issues. I also noticed that the air actuator for the PacBrake is vertical and not horizontal. Anyway, I digress, where I am really going is since I have to pull the turbo to drill the hole in the exhaust manifold for the EGT sensor, and I am going to replace the PacBrake, just as the old one is say 25yrs old. Is this the time to also rebuild the turbo? Perhaps add some better parts that are available today? billet compressor wheel, turbo shaft, machined bearing housing? Thoughts? Not trying to increase power, just don't want to break down somewhere. Headed off to check out your other picts on IRV2 and Monacoers 1999 Monaco Windsor 38' 106K 8.3L ISC. Also adding Birdseye Camera system. Really like to remodel my dash with easier to see gauges and rearrangement. Not all gauges are driver friendly. Thanks for any advice that you share.
@jefreyjohnson4294 yes, the tag axle definitely aids in keeping the coach going straight down the road. Years ago when I was reading many of the issues people were having with their 8-bag Roadmasters wandering issues I kept asking myself why I wasn't experiencing any of that and figured it must be due to the tag axle. I had replaced all of my bushings with the Atro bushings with very little, if any, effect. But again, I wasn't really having any issues. It was more curiosity than anything, I fabricated and installed the Watts link on our coach and noticed a slight improvement, but mainly only on those long constant radius curves where I didn't have to continue to add input to the wheel. As for driver fatigue, I really don't experience that much and it has you be a hell of a wind or gust to push us around. Many times I have to look closely at the trees or grass along the road to tell if the wind is blowing. We just returned last week from South Dakota and we drive the whole 650-miles home in one day without any issues of fatigue. Stopped once for fuel and once to fix a sandwich and stretch our legs, other than that drove the 11-hours home pretty comfortable. Makes me want a newer coach less and less these days as I have ours pretty dialed in.
Hey Mike, great video.... i have an 04 Monaco dynasty ISL as well. I ordered my Fass system this morning. Was the 1/2" NPT T for the fuel tank return Stainless or Aluminum? Not sure what the tank is made of or if it matters. Im going to install it exactly as you did. Im looking forward to the challenge. Thanks again
The fitting I used was stainless steel into the aluminum fuel tank. I also must mention that I redid my return line this year. For the first couple of years and ~10k miles I had zero issues. However, early this year I had some fuel discharge out of the combined return/rollover vent line during a trip through AZ this spring, so I separated the return line and vent valve and just ran the -10 return line to the street side factory bung in the aluminum fuel tank. I then fabricated a flange style of fitting and installed it on the curb side which I used for the vent valve. No more issues after separating and having the return line in its own bung and not shared. I have pictures of how I redid mine over on my coach's thread on irv2.com as well as on monacoers.org forum if you would like to see pictures. Best of luck on the install, you won't regret it. Although, with your common rail fuel system it is less problematic as the CAPS system.
Hi Mike. I have purchased a coach that is very close to yours and am having a few problems that I need some advice on the aqua hot and the leveling system. if you could I know time is valuable.Thanks Jason
Hi Mike. I just found your channel after Scanner Danner recommended it in one of his videos. He mentioned you do some motorhome videos as well as many other things. After listening to you go over this chassis and hearing all the work and upgrades you've made, I'm really impressed at how much knowledge you have on EVERY part. I would like to pick your brain because I recently had a little accident while doing maintenance on my new to me 2011 Tiffin Allegro Breeze 32BR with a Maxxforce 7. I lost a tiny plastic clip(1/4" x 1/4") down the oil fill tube. I have removed the tube and extension neck so I could attempt to retrieve it from the top of the engine. I connected a vacuum to a small diameter tube and try to see if I could suck it up. I can't see it and don't know where it may have travelled and I surely don't know the routing from when the oil goes in, passes through the filter, and all the other orifices in there. Since this is such a tiny piece of cheap plastic, do you think it's something to worry about or will it be pulverised or melt?
Thank you for the kind words. With the clip being plastic you are probably correct that it will be pulverized and/or melt but it could still get lodged in an oil pickup tube or oil galley and therefore could be directly responsible for a catastrophic failure so I would not be inclined to recommend running it until the clip is retrieved. Ultimately that would have to be your call. Keep in mind that if or when it fails, Murphy's law states it will be at the most inopportune time and if you are like me, it will be a constant worry and always on your mind. Best of luck. Mike
@Jurornumber5 not really. The trick that you tried using a vacuum and tube would be the best way if it worked. Anything else I think will be more invasive.
@@zmotorsports62 OK. I think that deserves a second try then. When I first did it, some oil started to shoot up the clear silicone tubing, so I shut it down. I will use a mini shop-vac and sacrifice it if necessary, on the second attempt. I'll let you know if I succeed. Thanks again for your time and I will look forward to your future videos and catch up on your past videos.
Die cast is alloyed with zinc to make it flow when injecting causing bubbles you try to work out. Always some left. Investment castings are totally different, no bubbles.
Really no sense in buying an older coach unless you really I mean really know all and how the services were done. I really doubt most people are as thorough as you. I mean like the coolant I bet most mechanics don’t know about the additives to use so if it hasn’t been done for 15 20 years that motor is probably about shot. Was considering moving in to an older beaver or something along those lines but maybe not worth the headache. Cheaper to stay in hotels.
True, but we'll never travel via hotels. For us RV'ing is a lifestyle, not about cheapest way to travel. There are much cheaper ways to travel, but it's about the journey, not the destination. If looking at any coach regardless of year, I highly recommend insisting on maintenance records. If someone selling has all of the maintenance documentation I suggest not lowballing them and pay them for their well maintained stewardship over the rig. If someone chooses not to keep records, then I don't feel their coach should bring the same money as someone who did. But that's just my opinion. Thanks for taking the time to watch. Mike
Mike, You’re awesome. Thank you. I just purchased the hi-temp anti size, Molly and Sly-guide. I did clearance the unison ring. I agree with you about Garrett not smoothing out the contact points. It took me a while with a dremel but I smoothed and clearance the unison ring. I bought a second turbo to rebuild before I tore out my original. But with your tutorial, it was an easy rebuild. NOW, the fun begins tearing the turbo out of the truck. THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!!
You're very welcome. You are right, rebuilding the turbo is the easy part, getting it in and out of the engine bay is a bit more work. 😜 Thank you for taking the time to watch and thank you for the comments. Mike
I purchased the KC Turbo rebuild kit but I have no affiliation nor was I sponsored. I suggest using one with the 360-degree thrust bearing though. I used the LiquiMoly LM48 and for the O-rings I only use Sil-Glyde. Hope that helps. Mike
Mike. Thank you for your videos. I have a bad ass 2006 Chevy 2500HD RESCUE and RECOVERY truck. You and your wife need to come out to Lucerne Valley and King of the Hammers, of which I am part of the "ON-COURSE" medical and recovery team RESCUE 3. Ive watched both of your LBZ turbo Videos. My question is the anti-sieze. I've heard both good and bad about adding anti-sieze to the unison ring and vanes. Adding anti-sieze attracts the carbon. I am in the process of rebuilding my LBZ turbo and I'm at the assembly phase. WHAT TO DO?? Thank you Robert RESCUE 3
I've also heard good and bad, but have not personally had any adverse effects from using it. I do recommend clearancing the unison ring and not relying slowly on anti-seize.
Your videos are the gift that keeps on giving. Used your videos on rebuilding my burner before and again troubleshooting my leaking fuel. My case it is the solenoid sticking. Fantastic information!! Thank you!!!
Sorry, I'm not really in a position to take on any more work at this time. I appreciate the interest and thank you for taking the time to watch but this was more of a how-to for those who want to tackle the job themselves.
Word of caution on that front clevis fork (wishbone) bolt: They will sometimes seize inside the bushing! And no matter how much whacking you do on it, it will not slide out. Your only option at that point is to have the entire bushing pressed out of the lower control and replaced.
Thank you. I appreciate the comments and thank you for taking the time to watch. Can't remember exactly what I charged on that one. I've done so many over the years I lose track. 😄
Wow what a great video! Ive been quoted £1500 to replace this gasket on my Audi Q7 but expect its much the same thing as mine is 2011 also. Thank you again for the time and effort! I do RU-vid videos as well and know what goes into it!
This was a really good explanation of removal and install. I have an 2007.5 duramax that most likely needs a Turbo/ Sensor. So what would you charge for this ? Riponjeff@hotmail.com
Great video! I have a 2011 RL. I plan to purchase genuine Acura fully assembled front socks for direct replacement much like a quick strut assembly. Is wishbone apparatus same for RL? I hope to use the applicable parts of your video for the installation.
Nothing that can't be done with basic hand tools. The few specialty tools I used just made the job go a little quicker is all . Glad the video was helpful thank you for taking the time to watch. Mike
Great video! I have a smiliar coach and Jeep tire and bumper combo. And like you I recently came to the same conclusion that my front tires are shooting stones forward and I was thinking about how I could make something like you did. I no longer have to ponder different ideas as it looks like you came up with a cost effective solution. Thank you for sharing and safe travels.
True, in 2009 there was an economic downturn…. Whatever previous parts were in the warehouse were used. Then, the shortcuts were used to keep the lights on …lay-offs etc. My old school gasser has a cut-above quality. Aluminum roof, aluminum floor vents as opposed to the short-cut flexible dryer vents strung through the cabinetry. Try cleaning out those every autumn without breaking/ ripping them. It can be a chore finding quality aftermarket furniture. Man made cushions only lasts so long. No computerized shades/ awnings and such. Our systems are stand-alone systems. When something needs repair, I stand alone fixin’ it. ✌🏼
It's not a difficult job, just a little time consuming because so much needs to be removed to gain access. But that's pretty much anything these days. It's just nuts and bolts. Thanks for taking the time you watch. Mike
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Hi Mike...I'm about to change out my valve cover gasket & just tried to see how torqued down the 5 bolts are & applied some pressure but backed off being afraid of breaking it. Should I be afraid of doing this or are these bolts hardened enough not to break & just apply more torque on the rachet? I certainly don't want to cause me any grief of having to do any "easy out project". This is a 2003 Cummins 400 isl with 72k on the clock.
Thank you. I appreciate you taking the time to watch. Yes, I blocked the signal to the wastegate giving me a bit more boost, thus aiding with EGT's. Mike
I have a 2006 Travel Supreme 42DS04. I took it in to check the slobber tube as to I saw some dripping on my concert after coming back from a trip towing my Ford F150 4x4. Took it in just to have it checked and they said everything looked good but I was missing a bolt on the manifold. They suggested that I get a new bolt put in and change the gaskets. Should I just have the whole manifold replaced to be on the safe side? 58K on the engine and the turbocharger checks out GOOD. Thoughts?
Personally, if the exhaust manifold is not cracked or broken I would just remove it, clean, true it up and reinstall it along with new gaskets and fasteners. I prefer a good "seasoned" cast iron manifold to new when possible. Best of luck. Mike
i just replaced both idler pulleys and both spindle assemblies for the first time in 15 years and also both blades and the belt on my 2009 Z4200. I live in Florida and it gets used 52 weeks a year for 1/2 hour. i replace the belt and blades every year and sell the used ones on ebay at zero net cost. my spindles had a same bearing noise as yours and idlers were both draggy. it has never cut so level and smooth. the biggest thing i have found on this machine is all the motor mount bolts and the frame bolts need to be torqued on an annual basis. they literally shake loose and all need to be red loctite done. i just haven't gotten around to that yet
Just changed the belt on my 2001 Monaco exitive. Find your videos helpful when working on mine . Had it apart to find an oil leak . So once I had it apart figured to go ahead and change the belt , check for wearing & rub marks on all the hoses. And I found the oil leak too . It was the oil pressure sending unit. Next project is to replace a couple air selinods for the HWH system. Have the screws turned in on the valve body so it's only in normal air ride for now . Thanks for all the great information you share .
Can you help me understand what you mean about turning those t-handles on the HWH valve body? I have this system in my Allegro Breeze and because it's a 2011, I'm very interested in knowing how to manually override systems when traveling.
@@Jurornumber5 Not sure what you need . Your coach is 10 years newer than mine to start . If you have the HWH air leveling system on your coach they could be similar systems. On mine there are 3 valve bodies for the suspension. 1 for the front suspension and I have 2 on my rear suspension. I have a tage axle on mine. Not sure if a single axle would only have one valve body on the rear . In your coach manuals there should be a manual for the HWH system. That's where I found out how to put the suspension in basically a manual setting. I have an issue with the right side and haven't had time to diagnose the problem. So I just turned the override screw in on the valve body. There should be a diagram in the HWH manual on the location of it on the valve body. I think you turn it in 3 turns . The air suspension works just fine as a normal air ride. You just can't use the control panel in the driver's compartment to adjust the suspension. Not sure if this helps you but this override screw adjustment is to get you buy until you get it repaired. But if your happy with just air ride suspension and don't need the other features of the HWH system it will not hurt anything using it that way .
Mike, I am glad that I ran across your video and presentation. I have a 2000 Monaco Diplomat that I purchased a couple years back. It's been hard to get good information about the chassis. For example, the Tie rod ends, and the center link are a problem that no one in my area in South Carolina seem to supply parts. There are a lot of things under the coach that I'm trying to service but it's not so easy when I don't have anything but an owner's manual to lead me. You video was very well done. I have subscribed to your channel and will be viewing your other videos. Thanks so much for sharing.
"Mike, great videos! They help me a lot with multiple things related to service and repairs. I purchased a 2003 Monaco Dynasty 42’. We have the exact same Monaco made in Oregon. If you could provide me with some pictures of the fuse schematic on the driver’s side, that would help me tremendously as I’m trying to troubleshoot some electrical issues. I may be pushing my luck by asking for the part numbers for the airbags. Keep the videos coming!"
When I have time I'll pull the schematic and snap a picture. Can you send me your email address as I cannot attach pictures to messages on RU-vid. Mike
@@zmotorsports62 I tried to send you my email privately. I have a channel as well so I tried doing it through mine as well. No luck. Do you have a Facebook associated with the channel?
I have the same problem. I tow jeep with truck camper dually truck. After watching video I built guards identical to yours. First trip no changes to rock chips (front of new flaps peppered with rocks). Now I’m thinking it’s my Rock Tamers and I put “stiff flaps” on instead of the ones that came with it. They are probably only an inch off ground when loaded. Thoughts?
