It also works a lot better just redirecting the hot air that comes out from the back outside basically what you did but for the back You never really want to cover the front that brings in the air and cools it down
1 year ago. How's the Custom Coat spray holding up. I purchased all the same products. I just wanted to know if there's anything I should do differently or if it was successful and there aren't any issues.
Hey Riley, questions for ya, I'm trying to save a few bucks and want to buy the less expensive model ( 1010 Lead ) problem is, I'm not sure what parts are essential when building the kit on their website, I want the essential so I can start cutting MDF and Plywood pieces, do I need all the parts they suggest ?
I would like to say if you think that just because something is watertight means it is airtight doesn’t necessarily mean that is true with this application. It is true but with high pressure air conditioners it’ll leak worse than a submarine with a screen door
Riley, how are those bolts holding up? The threaded inserts are a great idea, I might go that route. My concern is that if you're bolting it from the bottom going up into those threaded inserts, doesnt it need a nut as well? Or did the threaded insert act like a nut? I'm just wondering how its holding up today. Is it still solid or did you end up using something stronger? Thanks, great build.
Also, what if you left the threaded inserts the way they are and bolted from the top down? Then, you can use a nut at the bottom? Just thinking out loud.
I'm also doing one, if you're upgrading the chassis, try getting one with an overrun brake, they have handbrakes too, it's a good idea having capacity to safely carry extra weights. Here in Britain there's plenty of old camper trailers around with brakes, can get them really cheaply, even for free. I'm going for zero wood content, and just fibreglass foam sandwich, with uPVC slats fibreglassed into the foam floor for loadbearing rigidity across the chassis. Always good seeing other people's creations, thanks for sharing yours. Have a great day, buddy.
I know this video is 2 yrs. old. So how did that bolt on tongue setup work , in the long run? I was concerned that you didnt extent the 2x2 square tubing back to the trailer frame. Using it off road, bumps and bouncing around could loosen your mechanical attachment, even with locktite.
I didn't have that problem exactly, however, I did run into a few problems with the rollers and their tension. but once I got them tension and the rails straight everything just worked. but it was definitely a game of trial and error. the biggest thing that helped thugh was to loosen up a few things and move the carriage back and forth and then tighten things up
I think the seam should have gone on the bottom of the window so the weep holes drain properly. I would silicone the entire window. Thanks for the videos.
Cool deal. AC s have a high and low pressure side. When at rest, both sides are equal in pressure, starts easy. If it has been running and stops, then tries to start right back up, the difference in pressure is to great and the overload takes it out momentary. It will do that over and over till the compressor starts. Buzz click. Buzz click. When you turn one off, best to give it a few mins 2 or 3 before starting again nothing crazy.
