"A jack of all trades is a master of none, but often times better than a master of one". Welcome to my channel. I'm not out to get millions of subscribers. I'm just out to share a bit out myself and the myriad of projects I continue to take on and to inspire others that with a little bit of time, research, and planning that they too can accomplish anything they put their mind to! The more you build your skillset the more you can accomplish.
Would love to know more about what you were talking about at 14:00. Because you have a nearby wall also under the same wall, you needn't bother making your temporary support wall? I'm replacing rotted studs in an exterior wall and assuming it's load bearing and going to build a support as a result
Yeah, it was the closet wall I was counting on for supporting that exterior section of wall while I replaced the board.. Plus the was wasn't overly load-bearing as well since there was a chimney directly outside of that section that was also supporting that section of the house. You can see the chimney setup in this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-22--SI8UrNE.htmlsi=GZbhTvKldJPhBw0h and at 8:30 in you can see the outside section of this wall I'm replacing in this video.
This was a temporary interior fix just before winter, the rest of it was repaired a year later in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-22--SI8UrNE.htmlsi=GZbhTvKldJPhBw0h
If I remember right it was a Delta. It's easiest to just take the part out and take it with you to the hardware store to find the correct part. There will be a label on the faucet somewhere saying what brand it is.
Glad to help! Believe it or not, I had a friend forward me an email... That they received from Apple-Support. Where they included a link to this video!!!! To say I was flabbergasted was an understatement!
my cabrio will start but stay at sensing with no motor. I've replaced the fuse and thermister. Have not gone the route of this video but it sounded like when you pushed start nothing happened, which is not the case with mine. I'll check the board but maybe the moisture sensor is bad? Error code is F 28
@@masterofnone8065 No actuator on this unit. Thinking it might be the ignitor. When does the ignitor flame fire up? I hit start and the machine hums then stays at the sensing setting. Checked the board and all looked OK. Any help appreciated!
Dumb question... but have you checked the belt? I've replaced the belt on this same dryer like 3 times now. Common failure. As is the tensioner and pulley it runs off of.
Looks like a lot of work. In essence your'e replacing the whole wall and reinstalling the french door. Kudos to you for taking on that challenge. But as we've seen, you can't always trust the workmanship of others.
Thanks Pete! It was a lot of work. I recently had to rebuild a sliding glass door in another house. I think the next time I do it (there are 1-2 more doors that will need this in the same house) I'll put a video up. It was a very intensive project, but saved me about $5K.
I had a similar problem on my house a few years ago. Water can cause a lot of damage and especially if it's happening behind siding. Nice job on explaining and showing the repairs.
Hi, great video! I'm trying to create EAN13 barcodes, almost got it working, for just one of my 3 examples it actually creates a code. Do you have an idea what I do wrong?
Helpful video and everyone’s comments. I am also not able to hear our participants. My setup is similar to yours as follows: Zoom conference & Spotify on an IMac, connected to a Mackie Profx12v3 via usb with the 3/4 button activated ON. Mics plugged into channels 1 & 2 which we can hear just fine through the main speakers as well as in the Zoom room. Main speakers connected via main outs which we can hear mics and Spotify just fine. I’ve noticed that your pc driver update provides you with a couple of channel options which the iMac does not and this is where I feel the issue lies since Mac does not need any driver updates. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading this lengthy comment. Dave
Hi Dave, sorry for the late reply... I was in Pittsburgh for the Pittsburgh Marathon... (no, I didn't run). I would definitely temporarily swap in a PC just to see if it changes your setup. But either way you'll want to ensure that Zoom is setup to have the audio out going to the USB and not the laptop speakers. You can set that under the microphone/audio settings in Zoom and usually it will let you select the audio-in and audio-out settings there.
yup, this is why i never use OSB for exterior surfaces. it's fine short term in the rain, but buckles and rots with prolonged exposure. i would have also used some wood glue between the 2x4 wall studs and the "filler" wall you created. would help insulate against drafts a bit.
It starts at 8:37 . The others don't show it, because there really isn't any. This system was horrendous and I sent it back right after I made this video and bought a Eufy system. The software sucked and the cameras did not function properly.
They *could* work, but I would avoid them. Any extra holes you put into the cabinet detracts from the appearance and decreases their strength. Glue is surprisingly strong in an application like this, but the cheaper glues will dry out after a decade and lead to problems like this. Especially in cheaper cabinets like these.
Thank you for your help. I have a cabinet doing the same thing and I’m like, oh great what do I do! And came across your video. Thanks so much for the tips!
@@PCRRAMROD Not personally, but there are quite a few that show up on Amazon. Depending on your 'area' will depend on which style to go with. The steel one I put on this cart is great for Northern PA. The same kit in SC along the ocean quickly rusts out however and it's best to go with as much composite/plastic as you can. Even if it means a few extra $$.
I used to have a desolder gun with a red bulb you squeezed to suck up the old solder. The tip screwed in. It would get hot. No need to add more solder. I had to replace the sucking tip a lot. I can't find that gun anymore. 😭
I never really liked those. Always had much more luck with the soldapult. Granted it's been 30+ years since I've tried a desoldering gun, but the tech can't have changed that much.
@@patriciamariemitchel <shrug> Just didn't. But I did learn with a Soldapult and spent thousands of hours (no joke) with one, so I suppose that factored into it.
I don't know how old my dryer was. It is exactly the same as yours but the motherboard looked new. No dust at all. I noticed one of the solder was loose so I filled it in. It works great now. Taking it apart took about 10 minutes max. Pretty easy job. I had the F1 error. Where it powers on and all the controls work but after pressing the start button, nothing happens.
Honestly, after cobbling it back together myself for a couple of years, I eventually ran into issues with the fan controllers. It takes special testing tools (which I don't have), so I hired a local HVAC company to come in and diagnose. They ended up replacing all of that and insisted on replacing the main-board as well since the two systems are interlocked together. When it was all said and done it cost me $1,200. Yay :-/ But at least I haven't had any more problems since then.
My board is perfect. My pulley looks fine. I see no burns anywhere. Theres a tiny white switch? under the pulley bar. Will that control power if its not working correctly? When I press start it only clicks. My belts are good. My fuses are good. Thermal and door switch good.
First of all you put the Teflon tape on incorrect supposed to go opposite direction that you threatened it in you totally doing it wrong and you using pipe dope no no on that plastic
I don't recall threatening any pipes. But I'm sure they probably deserved it! Or using pipe dope for that matter. Are you sure you wren't confusing that with the glue I was using?
I'd recommend using a dremel to clear the charred PCB. That material becomes conductive. Those joints crack and the current starts arcing to the board. Driving uo the resistance and creating more heat. A feedback effect. Years ago they would've used actual wires and spade connectors. Not this flimsy ass board for such ample voltage. Manufacturer oughta reimburse folks for their defective product. Then again, this is common practice. Planned obsolescence is a thing and it us very real and very common across all major industries.
Thanks for the comment, but you'll need to be super-careful with a dremel on any PCB. Alcohol and a brush is best. Some PCBs are multi layer and if you go to deep you'll damage a layer below the one you're working on. And you are spot-on for 'planned obsolescence!'.
Thank you for your comment! Temporarily removing a board here and there won't make a difference. Especailly if its only for a really short time. Plus this was the second/top floor so there wasn't a lot of weight on the wall.
Not sure if you mention it in the video but how long doe these mic last for with your batteries? I assume you might not know since you recharge after every use?
That will depend entirely on the batteries you use. I recommend Ansmann 2850s. They are amazing batteries that last a super long time. www.amazon.com/Ansmann-Capacity-Discharge-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B09KFHQRVJ
Forget all that figuring just cut a board and hold it up on the wall where you want it and mark it or something. There's no need at all to do all that math
Thank you very much for sharing the video, I like your configuration. I'm actually new, and I saw an option that seemed very cool to me, having the console from the iPad, I would like to know what I need to control it in the same way you do in the video, wirelessly, it would be very useful for me . I hope you can help me. Greetings.
Thanks for your reply. A lot of the newer mixers are setup like this with iPad controls. This particular one is a Mackie DL32S, but we have a DL32R in a larger setting. I know other vendors like Behringer have similar setups.
The belt could be shot/off. I had to replace that at least once on this dryer. The idler pulley seized up and burnt the belt up. Unfortunately I did not get that on video.
this video is awesome but didnt fix my issue. took the door off and realized that the drumming belt was broken. presented all the same issue as you said but the issue with mine was the drum belt. Replaced it and worked like a charm
Liked the video... Helped out a bunch!! I just wished you had a little better lighting. The bonus at the end was a HUGE bonus for me... I added a new 48v to 12v stepdown transformer and was looking for the the keyed 12v wire to turn the transformer off when the key is off.
If you're interested here is a video on the garage renovation -> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rsikzxH81fw.html Also: I thought I had a video put up of a full rewiring I did on that same golf cart this year, but it looks like I never uploaded it. I also added a step down transformer, new front LED lighting, a flashing dome light on top and custom made switches for it too.
Thanks for sharing!!!! I have a Zoom L-12 mixer and I would like to have the VocoPro 16 connected to it, but I do not see how I could do it since Voco has one cable for each mic which would be 16 and my mixed only have 12. Would you have an idea on how could I use it? thanks
Yes. At :53 in the video you'll notice there is a 1/4" jack labeled "Mix Out". This is a 1/4" output combination of all four channels. So you'll only need to run 4 channels into the Zoom L-12. You would just have to do the mixing of those mics on the front panel of the receiver(s) instead of the L-12.
@@jefersonsiqueira9896 Yuppers. I went with 16 because I wanted to control each channel individually from the iPad through the Mackie mixer I was using and I had the free channels. It gives more more flexibility throughout the broadcast.
