I recommend flipping the foam in a way that when you close and carry the case by it’s handle, the scope is on top and not at the bottom. Good job, nonetheless.
Wrong, wrong, wrong!!! When you cut out your tracing NEVER use a positive & NEVER pin it to the foam! Use an Exacto knife to to cut out a negative. Instead of cutting around the outside of the object, cut inside the negative (hole) you just cut out. Wire has a tendency to hang at corners or other places and cause problems. If you cut on the outside, every error shows. If you cut on the inside then if there is a problem it is in the area that is either thrown away or is underneath the object. And instead of using pins (too many problems to mention), use a light coating of spray adhesive to affix your pattern to the foam. Easy peasy! Happy cutting!!!
Cutting the template from poster board is the perfect way to do it. But rather than cutting a positive, cut a negative. This way any overruns or mistakes are in the part of the foam you are taking away. And this also ensures that you get an exact tight fit, as cutting on the outside can lead to cutting away from the line and compromising fit. One more thing … it a LOT easier to use a light mist of spray adhesive on the cardboard instead of adding all those pesky pins.
That was good but I rather out line the parts on top of the foam with kids chalk and then spray the foam with plastic dip. And then cut it out with a electric knife.
Simple solution to the Tracing gadget is just to grind the first couple of inches of No 2 pencil in half. A sander or grinding wheel works fine. Then if you hold the pencil directly verticle, theres no offset!
Next time just flip the foam over and trace out a revered image with a fine point marker then cut and then flip the foam back over. Same results, 1/2 the time
The problem with this kind of setup, is with each pocket, you have to dismount the wire, exactly like that of a scroll saw, this video is not showing this. When you dismount the remount the wire, which is: load on load off, this will shorten the life of the wire which is under tremendous heat and stretching. In addition, you will have to wait for the wire to cool down before the dismount. Secondly the table foam cutter is never revealed as to show its function and advantages, so that the prospective buyer of the plans can make an intelligent decision.
1st, there is no other way to insert the wire in the middle of the foam without threading it. 2nd, I have used the same wire for over 100 projects, I can afford the $3 if I need to replace it. 3rd, when power is removed from the wire it cools within 2 to 3 seconds...I can wait.
JM, i'm interested in that gadget too! I could really use something like that for projects but haven't found any on the retail front. Anyone got any info on it? TCM84?
How were you able to get the foam to cut within the edges of the foam? I want to do one for the console of my truck and car but don't want to see any cut lines going out to the edges. T.I.A.
