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Thank you so much! Removing the same capacitor you did worked for me. I was wondering if the capacitor needs to be replaced after removing? Is the tv safe to use without it?
I really wish I could find somebody like you in the Bay Area. Preferably in San Jose. I legit can’t find a single person besides Best Buy and they want to charge $125 just to look at the TV.
TV repair is really slowing down as an industry. We’re just about the only shop in central Florida that works on TVs, other places like Best Buy and warranties just send replacements. :,(
please help me LG oled55E8 model 2018 when i watched netflix tv turn off automatically, red light is keep on, when i turn from remote or tv button,tv ticking normal sound inside and after 5 second another ticking and turn off tv but that time up screen is showing quickly some line and shut down. is this power board or main ? please help.
@rayhernandez6784 in that case, your backlight is dying. If it has a plastic back that looks like the one in this video, you might want to replace the backlights before they burn the diffuser.
I don’t think it’s lazy. It’s how I do it. I fix this same problem so often that it’s the quickest way and safest for the tv. Also I’m bad at soldering :p sue me
@ztronixz2236 oh also what usually happens to this model is the filter capacitor blows, takes out the mosfet, which then blows the fuse. You can just remove the cap, then replace the mosfet and fuse and it’ll work (:
I’ve never seen that to be the case for Samsung or any other tv for that matter. It’s usually a capacitor that blows and then kills the mosfet, which then kills the fuse :p
lol yeah, that would be super convenient tho if it could fix itself after the short is removed. There’s probably a circuit like that out there that I don’t know of yet
So I tried to check the resistance with multimeter across multiple capacitors on the same side of the board where you showed the bad one. Most of them beeped. Does it mean all are bad? I disconnected the ribbon bale and half of the tv showed white screen. How do I go about narrowing down the issue before breaking capacitors. In you case it was single I doubt the tv will work if I remove more then one.
@rkbest9783 the proper way is to inject voltage into one of the bigger capacitors, like I showed in the video. You can also desolder the one I showed in the video, and just test that one for a short. If it’s fine, place it back and check the other one. In my experience, it’s one of the two side by side that I removed.
@rkbest9783 @rkbest9783 Good question! Unplug everything. Unplug the panel from the tcon, unplug the ac cord from the power board. Also, be careful. I wouldn’t recommend using anything but a variable power supply specifically made for this purpose. The safest way to determine which capacitor of the two is bad is to desolder, test for short, and then repeat if the short persists
Unfortunately this issue is extremely common with Samsungs TVs, and it will always happen eventually. Sometimes you can cover another clock signal and it will work with worse quality. And if you reduce power consumptions for the tv, you can also slow this aging.
The misfits is a band from the early 80’s hardcore punk movement. Oh you mean mosfets? Yeah, those are metal oxide semiconductor field effect transmitters. Gold star ⭐️
In a lot of TVs yes, it’s a firmware issue often times on the NAND or EEPROM. But this is a very common issue on Samsung TVs. You can do a search on RU-vid for Samsung “tape method”
You probably Bypassed one of the CKV lines of the panel It workers flawlessly with the 32 inch samsung single COF models but not with the larger ones , they usually have a violet tint on the half of side on which the work is done .
Thanks for the comment! I’ve heard about the CKV lines before, and I totally know what you mean with the color issues. It’s very hit or miss for me at the moment. Do you have any tips to share about this topic?
Hey man, almost threw my TV out, saw your video and decided "what the f***, might as well junk it missing a couple useless capacitors" and lo and behold, your fix worked!
Of course. I use the following things but it’s also important to have a flat and relatively soft area to work, free of any objects that could crack the screen: - Screwdrivers (rigid model R8224) - Backlight tester (TKDMR model TD3H) - Spatula pry tool (ACE hardware) - Portable soldering iron (Lenove 926 LED III) set at 360 - any 3v LED backlight strips for repair, or search for the tv model number + “backlights” on eBay to replace the whole set - low melt solder, enameled copper wire I think that’s everything (:
@claytongish9355 some TVs like this one don’t require adhesive. Very few, like the unibody bezelless Hisense TVs that I’ve made a video on, require adhesive strips. You can search “adhesive strip for TV panel” on eBay, I’ve only found it overseas. It’s a double sided, black adhesive tape. But you can’t use iPad adhesive strips for example.
It’s possible that the power board you replaced it with has the same issue, as this is a design flaw from Samsung. I recommend testing without the main board plugged in, to confirm if it’s the power board. If the screen stays lit up (backlights) then try the main board. Hope this helps (:
Hello -- So like one here described, the logo pops up for a brief second and fades out fast, the power light blinking and then the tv shuts off. I originally was going to get the boards but from what your saying it is more than likely the backlight?
And your friendly neighborhood regular commenter tv technician is here to post a comment with no context Can you please provide how you Bypassed the chip , seems pretty efficient
Thanks! I plan on making another video with diagrams for this particular tv. But for this specific board I tied the 0ohm resistor before the chip to ground.
