U-Wrench - TV Welcome to Tucson's only DIY auto shop. We have created a RU-vid channel that features all the craziness we get involved in here at U-Wrench. Our staff consists of Brandon, who is one of our mechanics & Fred the paint and body guy, both are the owners of this fine establishment. That leaves Auriel, who runs the front desk, checks in the renters and numerous other tasks, while also keeping the guys in line when things get out of hand. Then there's Steve. Along with being Fred's dad, he also films and edits the content here, rounding out the squad with his knowledge and expertise. That's the rundown, please like, subscribe and enjoy the content!
I had a 1990 B2600i that I bought new and sold it 4 years and 80,000 miles later. I can't even imagine how quick one of those would be with a V8. Braking shouldn't be a problem with that if it has the same brake proportioning valve like mine had. When I stepped on the brakes it felt like a tail hook grabbed the truck and brought it to a stop in a hurry.
I remember the first time I tried to do a valve body to put in a shift kit 40 years ago. Took the valve body off, check balls flying everywhere and I ended up bringing it to a tranny shop to finish it 😂
I find it easier to take out the lower control arm with the strut assembly, and remove the strut as a complete assembly. For every day driving the factory M030 sport suspension is very good, no need for cheap coil over debates or spending hours getting ride height set. Porsche already figured it out for you. No weird issues with binding noises either. Also, for the rear sway bar links, just disconnect it at the other end and then remove it later when the shock is out. Way easier. If done right this is a fairly easy job.
First and foremost great stuff. Quick question, did you sand than lay epoxy. Also is it necessary to add sandable primer or can I go straight to base coat and clear? Thanks