We're two brothers that enjoy drinking beer and turning wrenches who occasionally fix things so they work again, most of the time they don't ever work again! LOL We're not mechanics, we only pretend to be, so please don't take anything we do or say as other than comedy.
Warning! Warning! Warning! PSA: Please don't ever drink or drive and if you're not 21yrs of age stick to water, tea, pop or any other non alcoholic beverage!
I graduated from a town called Bertha. I used to drive over the road and drove a lot of binder trucks mostly cab-overs back in the late 80's early 90's
Depends what look you're going after....since you've already done cab and fender paint, might as well do the firewall and inner fenders the original color red...black frame. Just my opinion.
Did you guys retain the original brake system?...the hydro-vac on my 68 Loadstar is toast and I'm trying with just going with manual brakes as the pedal has a lot of adjustment options for the master cylinder push rod. My 304 doesn't leak and runs pretty good... needs new points, rotor and cap. May pull her and do a "krylon rebuild". Nice seeing you guys giving her a new lease on life!
@sebo1911 - So far yes the hydro-vac is still in place, when Ken picked the truck up the brakes worked fine, then when I got home and finally drove it for the first time there were zero brakes. Truck sat for a couple weeks then we moved it into the shop to correct the massive oil leaks (more videos to come) and all of sudden the brakes work. If we keep having issues we'll look at getting ready of the hydro-vac. Krylon (or Craigslist) rebuild for the win! LOL So far we're really enjoying the old girl and hope to have her road worthy soon. Thanks for the comment! R
@@twodrunkbrothersgarage4911 you bet...I'm on "standby" as far as working on mine as I'm still on the mend from hip surgery. I have seen quite a bit of information regarding putting a vacuum boost from a modern truck. Kind of want to wait on that until I decide if I'm going to keep these original widowmaker wheels or find a 6 to 10 l conversion.
The green 30a fuse at the top of the dash side panel deals with the blower. Here's an important tip regarding all fuses. My directional signal stopped working and at another time my blower failed. I pulled the fuse in the panel at the driver's end of the dash, checked the fuse for being blown and corrosion, scrapped the blades with my thumb nail and saw a white substance appear. I whipped them off on a course rage and reinstalled it and I haven't had a problem since. Moisture in some form must get in.
@JB91710 Thanks for the info, the fuse was good, it was a bad blower motor and relay. It's been working great since replacement and no squeaking noise which is even better. Thank you for the comment, we appreciate it. R
@RR-tu2nb Hell ya - we always have fun and too be honest this is why we're doing this videos. Too have fun, spend time together and occasionally get some work done on projects that have been sitting for awhile. Thanks for the comment. R
If you take a blown engine apart and put it back together with the same parts, technically, that's rebuilt. It was built once, and built again. That's the definition of rebuilt
Lol 500 hp from an old carburetated V8 is only a dream. It may be new, but that heavy iron ain't pushing 500, it'd be lucky if it pushed 300 tops, and that's on a good day.
Hey bros, Got an awesome product for your rusty frame. Just pressure wash the shit out of the frame then brush on Coroseal.... Converts the rust, turns out a nice black and last for years. It's used to treat, coat bare rusty exposed rebar down in the salt air in the Florida keys and holds up for years in that harsh environment.... So quick and easy it'll make ya smile. Just did my 49 Dodge PU.
@wilharrison8883 - Thanks for the info and comment. I have used Coroseal before at work, I agree it does work well. We'll look into it. Thanks again. R
