Apex Garage is a race team and motorsport content creators that have been racing professionally in Global Time Attack, GridLife Track Battle, American Endurance Racing, NASA, SCCA and other major sanctioning bodies since 2011. With a full road race program, specialty project car builds and traveling all over the country for races, follow Apex Garage for some great motorsports content.
Here are two tricks: 1. lay the two rods next to each other and mark the line spacing on both approx. 200mm wider than the axes. This guarantees that the two cords are always parallel to each other. Alignment with the vehicle is now easier as only the rod needs to be centered. 2. loop the cord around the poles. Now the cord is at the top and runs back under the rod. This results in two cords lying one below the other. If you now measure from above, simply align your view so that only the upper cord is visible. Reading errors are now ruled out.
Im a little confused on the toe-in. Another video seemed to say the front wheels should be toed in 1/16 of an inch at the front of the wheels. Is that correct or no.
This is exactly how I do my little british sports car track car and its very simple people get a little caught up in the numbers but as long as the poles or sticks either end are the same length and are marked up and grooved exactly the same its just creating a squared rectangle around the car to set it up you can measure from any point on the wheel as long as your left to right numbers match front and rear you are squared up. Then just a case of measuring the front and rear of each wheel to the opposite side. As my car is rear wheel drive i like a degree toe out on the front and a degree toe in on the rear so under load/ acceleration it squres it up some what. I have a set of toe plates that I take to the track to check nothing has moved. Thats my thoughts anyway.
Im bothered by a few things with this design. In the front, i realise the helper spring sits fully on the locating sleeve, but still that spring to spring contact feels bad, sure this is correct? Than in the rear, the locating sleeve sits between the two springs. At normal ride hight that should sit flush with the upper mount, lacated by that small bulge. But at full drooo this sleeve will clunk against the mount. Feels odd??
Cheers for this, got the car tracked at home. New anti roll bar bushes, inner / outer tie rods.. so you can just imagine when parts come as different lengths lol you can count your rotations as you remove but nothing ever goes back on the same! Sorted, cheers.
Awesome work Sav! Car is prepped and ready and I hope to see you out at the NASA Mid Ohio this year in April. I just may be finishing a SPEC MX5 myself to join you one of these days.
Broooo you gotta repost this stuff more this content is so badass 🔥 I absolutely LOVE your build and thank you so very much for sharing, you should do a cost breakdown video for tha boyz on the LS3 swap then do a suspension cost breakdown
I read an article saying the car is way lighter after being gutted and stripped with added carbon fiber. The LS3's are only about 100lbs heavier but they're probably using lighter internals and externals too. I heard another g35 racecar was around 2800lbs but i dont know about this one
