Hello Marius. Thanks for your video. I understood that the brake problem of my 2013 pajero full, s in the master cylinder. The over pressure sensor has failed. So, can i remove and clean it up?
Hi,I got my Husky365 fiixed twice,still not fixed.It cant get high revs.Thought maybd fuel line or springs in accelerator trigger,but of course Im sucking my thumb .Is there 1 place in South Africa that has any clue about a chainsaw ?
tried this way, and it should work but its a little tricky, the nuts want to unscrew themselves when the engine is running, exhaust can get hot. so if you have a MityVac you can just apply the vacuum to the actuator when the engine is off i brought the vacuum to 25inhg and noticed the actuator wasn't pushing out anymore then adjusted the jam nuts. Worked well for me, haven't checked VCDS yet to see req/act values but the check engine went away and is running very well.
Good day, very informative video; My car is a 2004, Pajero 3.0v6 with 6g72 Engine. Please advice could worn out brake pads cause the buzzing issue when brake pedal is pressed? Because mine when I press the brake pedal 3 times with the engine off and ignition on I get the small buzz sound and an abs dash light! This is the exact sound it started doing a few days back, sometimes when u apply brakes to put on reverse it will make a continuous beeping sound then goes off after barely 5 seconds!
Hello, I am using a translator, I hope you can help me, I have a Mitsubishi Montero 3.2, it has the annoying beeping sound, the brake motor is on for about 10 minutes and then it turns off, I used it like this during this time, the whole problem It came after changing the brake pads and now the pedal feels a little spongy. 3 days ago I heard the sound like a screeching sound, I think it is the accumulator but I don't know if it is the failure of the engine not turning off. I hope you can understand what I say
Brilliant explanation, thanks for sharing. I have a 2003 Pajero which is making an awful squeel when pressing the brakes. Sounds similar to the sound you described. Is replacing the reservoir fairly straight forward, as the sticker mentions to use caution high pressure nitrogen?
Hello I have issue with my HBB, pump starts every 5 sec and accumulator cant hold pressure, I hear hissing from accumulator, its like air leak, but brake fluid flow immediately to reservoir and pump starts pumping to accumulator. When I turn key off, brake fluid flow to reservoir and brake pedal is very hard. I think there is mechanical issue with some leak, maybe accumulator or main piston seal in HBB, I want to remove accumulator and check small pipe and spring. Could you know, what is wrong with my HBB ?
@@MariusFourie I bought this accumulator maybe 3 years ago from dealer, they changed it and it didnt help, and they dont know what to do with it so they wanted change whole HBB for 3000 dollars. I didnt agree with it and I tried solve it myself, I found issue, it needed air bleed from brakes. I tried air bleed now and didnt help. If my issue is accumulator again I need to buy another from dealer for 400dollars.
Hello sir. My 06 had the motor fail 4 mths prior. Replaced and was working fine. Had the accumulator chirp noise for a while. Noticed the accumulator started chirping when driving or coasting as well rather than only braking/releasing the brake. Bought a used accumulator and swapped. Now, the motor runs every 5-10 seconds and there is a slight hissing from the unit whenever the motor stops. No leeakage externally. Any ideas? No codes or warning lights. I stopped driving it. My country has no mitsu dealers so will have to import if i need the entire hbb unit. Thanks Edit: the pump does indeed stop. Sometimes, when you turn the key in the morning, pump runs for 30 seconds and stops. No hissing either. Then, if i press the pedal a few times, it starts acting up....running every 5-10 seconds and there is a slight hissing.
Press and hold the brake while idling. If the pedal stay gradually drops, then you have a master cylinder problem (or leak at the brake piston on one of the corners). If it stays stiff but HBB pump cycles, then you have an internal leak in the HBB which will need replacement as a whole. Remove accumulator (ignition off, pump brake 40 times - unscrew accumulator), then try to press the inside through the whole with a screwdriver. If it yields the accumulator is bad. If it's rock hard it's likely the accumulator is fine. If you know someone else with a pajero, swap out accumulators with him and see if the issue follows the accumulator.
Thanks for the reply! I'm going to be working on it today and I'll have a go at these diag tips you mentioned. Unfortunately, here in Pakistan, pajeros aren't very common. I will post back here once I've got the issue fixed for anyone else who has a similar issue. Thanks a lot!
@@MariusFourie Well, I have some good news. I did the tests you suggested. Pedal stayed firm, motor kept running every 5-15 seconds. Then, I removed the Accumulator and tried pushing with a screwdriver. Piston was solid. Then, I took the poppet valve and spring out to look down the hole where the Accumulator fits. I put my screwdriver in there which happened to be a magnetic screwdriver. Fished out a few very tiny pieces of metal. I then remembered the used accumulator I tried to install wasn't screwing in right. The first thread was a bit 'flattened'. I think some shaving fell into the hole. I cleaned it out, cleaned out the hole, and reinstalled the Accumulator. Lo and behold, everything seems back to normal. I took it on a drive around the neighbourhood and in town a bit. Seems to be doing fine. Will report back if I have any further issues, but I think I've solved my problem. Thanks!
@@norontboyz5949after the 3 months, is still working with no chirp noise? Or it came back? I'm thinking about give a try on unscrew the accumulator, check it out and screw it back.
@MariusFourie brand new actuator , everything else worked fine before, old actuator wouldn't hold vacuum so changed it for a new one. Wastegate is free to move so assuming vanes OK.
The HBB failed on my early 2008MY at 13 years/120k(kms). No warning lights or noises, but could only hold the car on the brakes for about 30 seconds, with the pedal sinking slowly, before the brakes released. There was absolutely no leakage anywhere so I concluded that fluid was creeping back past master cylinder seals - perhaps damaged/worn cylinder or seals? However, as far as I could discover, there are two pistons, one of which has a one-way bleed valve. Perhaps this failed? I wasn't able to locate spare pistons/seals in Philippines and eventually fitted a brand-new HBB. Someday I may dismantle the old HBB to investigate. I still haven't managed to bleed the system to my satisfaction, but it all works (with long pedal travel). Would a vacuum pump help or do I need to use an OBD ABS bleed function?
Pedal slowly creeping to floor is master cylinder or leak (fluid will go down in reservoir over time). Bleed as normal 500ml per corner but have the car idling when you do the rears.
@@MariusFourie absolutely no leak - the fluid level in the reservoir didn't budge even 1mm. It had to be bypass of the master cylinder seals/pistons. A year later, I installed a brand new HBB and have not had to top up at all in the 2½ years since. I still have the old HBB and may investigate when I have nothing more important to do! I will have another go at bleeding the system again, following your advice, to see whether I can get a firmer pedal.
Hi, thank you so much for this video. I own a 3.8l petrol pajero and the problem was that it had a continuously beeping sound with the abs light, asc off, traction light and brake light showing on the dash. I have just purchased a 2nd hand unit and have replaced it in the vehicle. The beeping sound has since turned off and so has the brake light. Everything else is functional however there are times when pressing the brake pedal I can hear noise from the accumulator. I did not perform any other tasks besides replacing the unit. Hoping you can give advice on what I should do etc whether its bleed the brakes .. really desperate for some help. Thank you
Thank you for the spot on explanation . After 20 years having a failure on my mk3 were surprising but i am sure i will be fixing the issue with relays or accumulator easily. Thank you very much .
Do you know how does it work?i already know that with the "rest" button you can keep the interior warm when you stop it after riding , because i saw a video about it. But I'm a new owner of one and I'm learning 😁 Cheers from Portugal 🇵🇹😉
correct. You pump 40 times with ignition off to depressurise the accumulator before removal. The accumulator allows around 15 power brake pumps with ignition off.
Hi Marius. I have installed the two blankplayes on egr but left the unit on, but my coolent is still running through the unit. Should i do this coolent pipe bypass aswell
the egr cooler is a known weakpoint and many fail. The coolant the escapes via the cooler out the exhaust and the first you know of it is an overheating engine due to low coolant levels. I recommend you bypass the coolant loop to avoid the coolant going through the egr cooler.
Thank's for the Video,i got this system, mines a 2004 NP glx Australian 3.8L pajero, would be nice to know what a good one sounds and works like, eg does it make any charge up sounds.? just bought car few months ago and wondering if normal to hear a like a pump charge up cycle for eg 10seconds on key on then again for 3seconds again then stops. Brakes seem fine no lights on dash etc just i got no clue to what's normal on these 3.8L but looks just like your pump system..
1.Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (OFF) position. Depressurise the power supply system of the hydraulic brake booster (HBB) by depressing the brake pedal at least forty times until the pedal effort becomes high. 2.Check that the reservoir fluid level is at the MAX position. 3.Chock the wheels and release the parking brakes. 4.Turn the ignition switch ON, and measure how much time is elapsed after the pump motor starts until it stops. Standard value: 20 - 80 seconds 5.After the pump motor stopped, start the engine. The brake warning lamp should not be turned on. 6.Stop the engine, and then turn on the ignition switch again. 7.When the brake pedal is depressed four or five times, the pump motor should start and then stop. 8.Depress the brake pedal four or five times again, and then measure how much time is elapsed after the pump motor starts until it stops. 9.Depress the brake pedal fully consecutive 15 - 20 times for ten seconds. The brake warning lamp should illuminate and the buzzer should sound. Standard value: 2 - 11 seconds. caution : Turn the ignition switch ON, and wait for at least 120 seconds before carrying out the checks.
Thanks for the video and explanation of what can fail. Recently picked up a lexus gx 470 and the motor is running constantly and when is off for a few seconds I can hear a hiss around the accumulator. Haven't seem any brake fluid leak. I'm going to replace the small o-ring on the accumulator threads and clean the plunger.
A hiss is probably internal high pressure bypass. Try testing your relays first to see if they are stuck in the ON position, overworking the pump. The accumulator is filled pump up with brake fluid. If the factory nitrogen fill has leaked out you will have no power assisted brakes and likely will have a bunch of error lights on the dash.
Thanks for the awesome video. A couple of weeks ago I changed all my calipers and one of the calipers I bought was defective and bled out a lot of brake fluid. I got that problem fixed and now no matter what I do my brake pedal continually goes to the floor. I did find a Mitsubishi documentation that was almost 200 pages about the brake system and how to bleed them. I followed it exactly and my break pedal still goes to the floor. Should I go ahead and look at the master cylinder at this point or should I keep chasing possible air in the system
Have you tried bleeding while the engine is running? This is crucial for the rears. And actually makes bleeding the rears very easy. Just open the bleed valve and the abs pump will push the fluid through. Do some abs braking on gravel to get air out of the esp valve block.
Thanks for the video, did you ever get around to pulling the electronics apart to establish if the low pressure sensor switch is serviceable/replaceable. I’m fairly sure I have the same issue but reluctant to spend the $3200 to replace the entire unit if I can replace the switch.
Recently changed accumulator and system was working fine, until I heard that annoying sound from under the dash, again, however when I hear the sound, the brakes gets hard after a while, then I tap the accumulator and then I hear the motor comes in and starts pumping. I've tapped the reservoir and nothing, only when I tap the accumulator the motor comes In and I have brake again... What could be the cause?
I need help figuring out if my issue is the brush motor or the accumulator. I have the same NS but left hand drive so my assembly is on the opposite side of the engine compartment. When the brake boost pump kicks in I hear what I think is the brake pump motor pressurizing the accumulator (this sound ru-vid.comL6w9oR-j-vE). That lasts for about 3-5 seconds and then at the end when it stops I hear a nasty scraping sound for about 1 second. It sounds like this guys video (ru-vid.comRw-n64KUjz4) but just one time, not repeatedly. I'm nervous to drop 208USD on the accumulator if it's the brushes on the mechanical pump itself... it sounds like metal on metal scraping which makes me thing the electric motor. Ideas?
The noise on the second video is the pressure bypass valve. If the pump runs then stops, then the motor, relays and fuse is likely OK. If the motor continuously runs and you keep hearing the screech noise then the accumulator or valve body or pressure sensor has failed. Go to a breaker yard and ask if you can swap out as a test. Ignition off, pump brake 40 times, unscrew the accumulator, screw on new one. Make sure you don't lose the little shaft, spring and o ring when you unscrew. Start the car once swapped (no need to top up fluid) and see if everything checks out. Motor should stop in less than a minute to pressurise accumulator
@@MariusFourie Thanks for the quick reply. The screech noise is not continuous. It happens one time for about a second and does not repeat until the electric motor kicks in again to re-pressurize the accumulator. I'll see if I can test out another accumulator at a parts yard.
@@MariusFourie Sometimes, when I'm braking, I hear this noise like the second video for a very short time. It sounds something is not working as suppose. Should I go for a fix or something? I just bought this 2008 Pajero.