IT already sold?? well hell!!!

thanks

appreciate it, I'm building another one now

@@devodave05 will the new one be for sale?

me too lol

Sundown -

Did you have a bad experience with a Thunderbird?

@@matthewcoldicutt5951 Matthew: remember who you are talking to... Triumph Riders never have a bad experience with them... Like wives; just many agreements to understand overcome their needs.

@@soldtobediersI'll go with that

I like to turn my treble to almost zero!

these are the changes you need to do. First you need to go in to the cap pan underneath and adjust the power rail voltages. First you check the phase inverter tube plate voltages and if they are not close to about 235/240 volts on the plates there...you need to adjust the power resistor to get in to that range for that power rail node. The PI will not have the same voltage on each half of the tube which is normal. Then down stream from the PI the next power resistor will need to be adjusted to a higher value and the same wattage....all the power rail power resistors should be 2 watts minimum.....3 watts is better. The down stream resistor feeds the pre-amp tubes and you want to adjust the plate voltages to get around 140 volts on the plates of V1 & V2. The fender plate voltages for those tubes is usually up around 225 volts which makes the response very linear and sterile.....has lots of clean headroom but no flavor for a juicy guitar sound. SO dropping the plate voltage will get it in to the range that the 1950's amps typically ran at. The next operation is the pre-amp tubes in the various positions. The V1 & V2 are the primary source of your sound. V2 is the reverb side tube. V1 is the dry side channel. V3 is the reverb driver tube and V4 is the reverb recovery gain stage. Change V3 to a EH 12at7 regular tube (electroharmonic's also makes a 12at7 wc type tube that has a very bright response and the regular version is warmer and even and not with a bright emphasis), as this will give a great even reverb response. Change V4 to a EH 12ay7 first to try it as you will be determining the gain of the signal you need. The V4 12ay7 will have less gain than a 12ax7 that is called for and thus it will make the reverb much more clear...the clarity of the reverb will result in better note articulation. The EH 12ay7 is an even response tube. Alternatively for a bit more gain if you need it and retaining the clarity is to use a 12at7 tube......the choices are the EH 12at7 as in the reverb driver V3 position or using a JJ 12at7 tube as the JJ will be a bit more warmer in response to the EH version....the EH and the JJ have their own quality to them and its your ear at the end to determine what you prefer. My clients prefer either the EH types with even response and emphasis. The V6 PI tube is subjective as it drives the power tubes.....and you should choose according to the end result for emphasis in the sound shaping there.....but its not as dramatic as the other pre-amp tubes in front of it. The V2 is the primary sound shaping tube, and that's the position you need to concentrate on after all the changes have been made. There are a variety of 12ax7 modern tubes as well as NOS varieties. I suggest using modern available tubes as when it eventually dies, you'll be able to find the exact same tube readily and cheap as compared to searching for a NOS exact replacement as the prices continue to rise due to supply getting scarce as time goes on. I'd suggest starting with a EH 12ax7 as they have long plates....alternatively to try is the LPS version from EH/sovtek. The Sovtek 12ax7 wa is a standard stock issued amp tube in modern amps as they are cheap. And the JJ 12ax7 is also cheap and popular. But each of these tubes will have a particular sonic signature and response as you play them and its selecting by ear which one you find that gives you the best of the best in the dynamic response with the guitar you are using as the guitars pickups are also a part of the equation. You mention that the amp was converted to the Black Face specs which mainly involves the phase inverter......but it should also involve the biasing circuit so the power tubes can be biased correctly. You want to bias the power tubes so they get at least 35ma to 45 ma per tube which will be in the hot bias range. The bias will also affect all the power rail voltages that I mentioned to adjust.....so your bias need to be set properly. The master volume pot with the pull out switch for the distortion circuit....that distortion is useless and should be removed totally from the bard and circuit....the switch on the pot is ok to remain as it won't work with the guts removed...don't be tempted to use it as a switch for anything else as the pot might cause a coupling to other parts of the circuitry even though its not directly connected by the switch if you use the switch to do something. The premise in using the amp is to dial up the pre-amp volume to get the preamp to give you the primary sound and how much breakup you want and need, and the master volume is the gate way to the power tubes and the over all loudness of the amp. Generally I say when the bias is up and hot, that on the master volume dial....zero to about 3 the amp gets louder as you dial up but at a clean kind of response. Between 3 to 7 is where the amp comes alive and the power tubes get juicy. And 7 to wide open is Jimi Hendrix territory......all without dropping down your preamp volume setting...once dialed in with the preamp....never change it. If you want more character to the amp, the phase inverter circuit can be tweaked. The input cap is usually a .001 disk cap that should be changed to a .02uf/630 volt polyester type cap but not an orange drop. Orange drop caps are too sterile. But the place for an orange drop cap is at the end of the PI where it connects to the power tubes...the last pair of coupling caps at the end of the circuit board.....they can be swapped to a .1uf/630 volt orange drop cap as they seem to add a bit more low end overall and clarity when everything else is adjust prior as I direct here in what I write. The caps act as a filter and changing the PI input cap to a .02uf will let more frequency pass thru. If you find it to be too much, then you can scale back to a .01uf, but don't go more than a .02uf. If you still need a bit more character from the amp, the fender factory feedback resistor is a 820 ohm resistor off the PI to the speaker jack. Raising the value will open up the amp and make it more aggressive in response as opposed to being refined as it is set from the factory. So try a 2.7K resistor first and you can scale up from thre to find your sweet spot.....as you go higher...the amp will start sounding louder overall and more dynamic but the listening point is when the master volume is above 3 on the dial where the power tubes are coming alive in response...its going to get loud. For the speakers in the amp.....I'd recommend 2 EV's....evm-L's or on the cheaper end...eminence delta 12's are they sound similar and are heavy duty with big voice coils and a good dynamic response. If you want to further the amp for response, you want to add reverb to the dry channel so you can bridge both channels as that will give you a way thicker sound than just using the reverb channel as is with it a single channel.....2 signals driving the power tubes yields more richness. When you look at the V2 preamp circuit on the board.....you'll see a 500pf disk cap coming off the V2 circuit which feeds the reverb circuit.....the cap coming off the V2 preamp circuit goes right to the 500pf cap.....and you want to look at the V1 preamp circuit and see that same cap where it has a wire going over to a 220K resistor pair at the master volume pot wire going to the board be the PI circuitry.....the PI input just ahead of the .001uf disk cap I mentioned to change to a .02uf cap. You would remove the wire at the 220K resistor and move it over to where the 500pf cap is off the V2 cap feeding the 500pf cap that is the nput to the reverb circuitry......very simple move of that one wire and where its connected in the circuitry. Having reverb on both channels means that they are both in phase with each other and can be jumpered at the input jacks. If you normally plug in to the #1 feed on the reverb channel, you would use the #2 next to it to plug a jumper wire in to and then plug the other end of the wire in to the "dry" channel #1 input jack...and set the controls the same as you have the reverb channel controls. If you plug the jumper to the other input #2 on the dry channel it will reduce the combining effect slightly.....the primary place you plug your guitar in to is the dominant channel and the jumper goes to the slave channel. Start with the slave channel set exactly as the reverb side.....then try turning down the treble pot on the slave side and you'll hear the dominant side get much more richer in the low end.....and a thicker response and sound...you can play with the settings to dial in...its a whole new world that way....and you'll be amazed at the tonality that's been hiding from you. BUT ITS GOING TO GET LOUD......protect your ears

thanks or pointing that out. I never knew that. This was a 3 speed, with out reverse. Is that possible? Thanks man

@@devodave05 Yes that is possible,those with a sidecar did have reverse tho'...I have a 1950 with reverse,but don't have the sidecar,1st gear is all the way back to me,then neutral,2nd and then 3rd being all the way forward...The shifting drum is the only difference in the transmissions on the shift pattern...Also your front brake lever is on the wrong side,should be in the throttle side of the handlebars...

The front fender is incorrect also,it is off a Harley trike or a big twin Harley...(74 cu in.).

@@steveseifertsr.8120 Hey Steve - the front fender was off a later trike. But in 1950 all the fenders for WLs were changed to this stream lined style. The fender is correct but the braces were off a 3 wheeler.

@@steveseifertsr.8120 This was an earlier transmission too. Not a two bolt, but the transmission was a pre 40 I think. The top trans cover is the older style that was changed in like 1940.

Yes this bike sod last summer, if you are wondering $14k

Also, I have another one I am building now :)

@@devodave05 14 seems about average. I'm shopping for a WL now. We will see what happens.

It was, sold it this Sumer 2019