Publisher of the Roof Framer's Bible - The Complete Pocket reference to Roof Framing. All the information you need to frame ANY roof. Every rafter length, cheek cut, angle, hip pitch, sheathing cuts, gazebos, non-centered ridges, and more. Simply the most complete reference for all things roof framing. Buy Roof Framer's Bible: www.roofbible.com
Many state building codes require rafters to be engineered and then built by a company that is qualified to do them. Check before you build. Your local lumberyard will know.
I’m a new subscriber. I actually love the way you teach, you guys broke down every step, lol I’d catch myself trying to figure out why you left steps out, only to find out I was the one trying to push the carrot in the mules backside, trying to get him to push the cart! Thanks for a great video
I'm going to build a tree house for my daughter and this video was invaluable, I presume the roof framers bible uses imperial measurements? Thanks for the video.
Very well explained, congrats. Just a minor adding to your explanation, as it's intended for beginners, is that a nominal 2x4 is actually 3.5 inches wide ( when explaining the birdsmouth); other than that, very good.
This whole time, I thought you were saying from the o-ring, and I'm over here trying to figure out what the heck you're talking about... halfway through, I hear overHANG, lmao.
Certainly. They call that a "hoop house". People have been building variations of it for a long time. We do plan to do a video on making one. It will have basically the same system as the coop, but with plastic instead of wire. Stay tuned!
If you found it hard toward the middle you need to back up and stay focused. He actually did a great job explaining in detail every step. I can’t build a roof but now that I’ve watched this video I’m going to get some scrap and give it a goal.
No structural reason. Although if you build the 3 panel coop, the roosts are 12' long and might sag in the middle if they were laid flat. We have several breeds and haven't had any issues. If you have the 1 1/2" edge up it makes the chickens stand 90 degrees from the roost bar and the poop falls to the ground instead of building up on the roost bar. You can certainly install them flat, or you could add a 1x2 along the top edge of the 2x4 roost to make it wider. That would give you 2 1/4" wide at the top. That might be a middle ground for them. We do round the edges to make it easier on their feet. Thanks for watching!
@@RoofFramersBible thank you that was very helpful. I was thinking the same thing adding a one by two but you’re right about the poop issue in my regular coops. I have a sagging tarp screwed under the roost so the poop collects on the bottom and then I can just shovel pure poop out. It works out really good.
Yeah, I guess. I never really saw a strong resemblance. I always figured there was more of a back story, but had never heard who came up with that. Thanks for watching!
@@RoofFramersBible after thinking about this for a while, I think the only thing I would do different on my personal property in Northwest Florida, where we are prone to hurricanes and High winds, I would have built a lien to put it under during those conditions otherwise, it would’ve saved me a lot of money and work! I hope your plans catch on. You could help a lot of people with those.I’m glad your posting it on RU-vid
Here is how I get the length of the hip and the first jack My book gives the length by the span of the building say it is 24 ' so I deduct the with of the ridge so I would look up 23' 10 1/2 '' and that would be the length of the common. but under hip and valley I would look up the same length and that would give the exact length of the hip or valley no shorting. to get the length of the first jack. I take a cut common and let the tape hang over 7/8'' inch because the exact length of the common to the center of the ridge is about 7/8'' longer than the cut length.. then I take 1/2 the diagonal of 7/8'' and that is 1 1/4 let the tape hang over 7/8'' and subtract 3/4'' from 1'' and a quater that is 1/2'' then deduct the differrence in length
The two panel coop and the three panel coop are exactly the same except for the length of 4 boards. The inside-to-inside dimension of the two panel coop is 100 1/2", for the three panel you use 12 feet. The roost bars on the two panel are 97 1/2", on the three panel they are 11' 9" long. This makes the 12' tarp fit perfectly. Set the two end cattle panels first and then let the third panel lap over them both in the center. Invert the center panel so that the wires / bars will nest in with the end panels. We are going to edit the plans to include these instructions for the three panel coop. Thanks for watching!
Nice job. Considering ordering the plans. How do you keep predators from digging around the base perimeter and still keep it mobile? How long do you expect the tarp will last? What is the approximate total cost to build a 2 panel and 3 panel? Thanks and great informative video.
We haven't had issues with the predators, but if you do, I would recommend adding 12" wide strips of fence panel (2"x4") around the perimeter. They can just hinge up to move the coop. They claim the heavy duty tarp will last 4 years. Build cost is approximately $450 for the two panel and $500 for the three panel coop.
I believe If you cut the birds mouth at the appropriate angle (56 in this case) I believe this will essentially allow the HAP to be correct at the building line. Which means there will be no need to drop the hip or even back (assuming not a large beam because then gap between sheet and hip will be to great) this is the same concept talked about by clipping corner at 45 on a normal hip mentioned in will holladay’s book RCS. Is this accurate or am I missing something. I’m going to try and build a small model to verify.
Certainly there is more than one way to do it. You can do as you say and clip the corner of the plate, or move the birdsmouth notch. This will shift the hip towards the ridge (up slope). Doing that will have the same effect as dropping the hip. That isn't how I do it. I find it easier to keep it straight in my head by dropping the hip. Thanks for watching!
I just used left over paint that I had. I built this out of pressure treated lumber that was new and sopping wet. I used latex semi-gloss. You would want to use latex with the wet wood. Painting the pressure treated lumber causes it to dry out more slowly, which eliminates most of the splitting and checking you see with pressure treated. The PT is heavy when it's wet. When it dries out the coop is much much lighter and easier to pull. Thanks for watching!
You could. It would be easier to pull straight forward, but turning would be more difficult. It's not too heavy, so I prefer to just pull it where I want to go with wheels on the back. Thanks for watching!
I built a hoop house of my own several years ago, and your design is BY FAR,. superior to what i ended up building. Mine got repurposed into a small greenhouse with bisquine over it. I will definately be building one of these for myself, and also for my mom!
We are excited to share our "Full Build" video of the Hoop Coop! It gives detailed step-by-step guidance on how to build one. Be sure to check out our detailed plan set with material list. Thanks for watching!
We are so excited to share our new Hoop Coop. Order your plans today and enjoy all the benefits of an affordable and low maintenance coop. Thanks for watching!
Why do you even mention all the crap we don't have to worry about today, my mind is cluttered with shit I don't need to worry about now. Please consider if someone is looking for how to's they're probably ADHD to begin with.
We try to be complete. We have received many comments about those alternate ways of figuring rafter lengths. I admit it is difficult to be all things to all people. Thanks for watching!
@@RoofFramersBible you did a great job. Some people can't appreciate free professional information anymore. I'm going to do a patio roof and this video was perfect.
Here is an idea for you. Go to work for a framing contractor doing multi house framing. Learn to be carpenters before you set up a camera and get in front of it and make fools out of yourself
Anna is smart. Roof framing can be confusing when you are starting out, but after you get the principles down, you just take it piece-by-piece until you master it. Thanks for watching!
If you use a rafter book it is calculated by the span , so you would look up 7' 10 1/2 '' and you would get the exact length of the rafter. say if it was a hip you would look under hip or valley and use 7' 10 1/2'' and that would be the exact length of the hip or valley no shortening
You are correct. Most of the old rafter books used the overall span in the tables. I used the "Full Length Roof Framer" book for many years. Thanks for watching!
@@RoofFramersBible Using the total span is better . Say you are cutting an L shaped bilding you take 2 measurements and cut the whole roof. Say you need to cut a hip between 2 ridges. you could add 1 1/2'' to the span of the common to the lower ridge that would get you to the far side of the ridge then calculate the higer hip using the span method and deduct the difference of the two hips
It wasn't covered in the video, but you always must have either a ceiling joist tying the rafters together at the plate line or a structural ridge. It the bottom ends of the rafters can't push out, the ridge can't sag. Or, if the ridge is structural and can't sag, then the rafters will not push out or spread at the bottom. Obviously there are limits to the spans of both the rafters and the ridge. The allowable span of the rafters will vary depending on the material / size of the rafters. If you are using a structural ridge, it has to be designed to carry the imposed loads. I wish the answer was simple, but it depends on a lot of different variables. Thanks for watching!
Gun Sense eh? Nice Question: In your book, did you say anything about what 2A wording really means? Examples Well Regulated: Means to be ready, in working order. Militia: Any man ages 18 to 45. ( since then, it has grown to include women, and nearly any age, mostly 18 to end. Court cases has allowed underage to defend homes also.)
