I kept putting off watching the video because it was one of the longer ones when I first seen the hardware you were using it really drew my attention. Usually i skip through the longer videos but I had to watch from start to end. I was thinking to give more stability splay the legs apart more at the bottom would only take a few angle cuts. On second thought might complicate things a bit but sure with some thought could be done and would be worth the effort. Couple days ago ordered from Amazon four twenty inch folding brackets glad to see you using them.
Yeah a little more stability would help, but once it's sitting on the ground I've never really had any problems (knock on wood) - I was worried about the folding brackets holding up but so far after 2 years they are still perfect - thanks for watching! :)
mate, been thinking of doing this for a while, but wasn't sure whether it would work or not. Been searching for a vid for a while now, and finally came across this one! Perfect! Thank you so much! Will even sub now!
Making infeed and outfeed wings integral to the flip-top cart design makes immensely good sense. Recently I started thinking along the same line for my own compound miter saw and thickness planer, as I have too little space for separate stands or trolleys for the two devices, and in my opinion, infeed and outfeed surfaces are a must-have feature for each of those tools. Thank you sincerely for publishing your example. I'll chiefly follow that, modified only for differences in my machines and by adding some light plywood panels as webbing to prevent potential wracking of the 2x6 structure.
I believe I used 1" pipe and flange and the coupling on the end of the pipe was around 1.5" outer diameter to fit the pillow block bearing - the length of the pipe had to have been 3" to go through the 2 2X6s - hope that helps!
I might not have mentioned the exact size but it's all going to be dependent on what bearings you get - I had these on hand so I used what I had, if you are buying them you can really use whatever sizes you want :)
This is an awesome build! I liked and subscribed!! Question; it looks like you leveled the miter saw first and adjusted the planer to proper height with those outer 2x4s. Is that correct? I would like to build this exactly. Could you provide the height of the 2x6s and width and depth. That would be awesome. Great video brother. Best one I've seen. This will help me save space in my small garage.
Ahh I completely missed that part in the video didn't I? - so the miter saw top happened to be 3.5" so the 2X4 was perfect - but the planer top was 2.75" so I actually had to jack it up with a 3/4" piece of wood on each side at 36:49 you can see them and then at 39:57 you can see I added some on the side because the planer was a bit wider and the holes to secure it down were *right* on the edge and I didn't like that and wanted to expand the width - does that make sense?
@@timhalleran3514 so the height (without the castors) is 32" - depth is 18" and length of the spinney part is 33" - so that makes the entire width a bit over 48" (because of the spacing in the spinney part - make sense?
Very Nice! In Part One you set up a roughing toolpath, I didn't see you use it in Part 2... any reason why not? Also, a good suggestion for a video would be to show how to use your Mach 3 software.... Thanks
I realized that with these tapered ball nose bits and the soft pine wood -I didn't need any roughing pass :) - there has to be tons of Mach3 videos out there - but I could probably make one too :)
Thanks for the short review. I bought one, haven't unboxed it yet, but wanted to get someone's opinion on it before I did. After your video, I'm confident that this will more than meet my needs, at least for now. 👍
Sounds like it would be too small? I think the 500kg one I used was right about the mid range of most people's ability to strike, but some elite striker could probably max mine out too!
I think I expressed myself wrongly. Your load cell is perfect for this. I don't even think that someone can punch or kick with a force of 500 kg. I referred to the fact that I have a load cell of only 1kN, i.e. 100 kg, and I thought that there is a possibility (related to the supply voltage used) to record the values of a blow whose force exceeds its measurement capacity.
Hey, I seen your full video, It is really helpful for my school project. Can you please share the Arduino Code? Please reply me ASAP because I have to submit the project in a week.
Very nice job. You're a methodical thinker. Just like everyone else, I have to add my unsolicited opinion on what I'd do different. It was definitely an "overkill" build but if I already had the materials laying around I'd use what I had. I'm guessing you had the bearings and 2 x 6s laying around. The only two things I'd do different is try to find a way to get the casters further apart. I understand why you did it the way you did but being top-heavy in nature, I know I'd topple the cart. Secondly I wouldn't want the miter saw sticking out. That would be a shin skinner for me. I have the same saw and it would require the cart to be about 30" deep to completely house the saw. That would make your cart about 6" thicker but it would also increase the distance between the casters so maybe it would be worth the trade off. Adjusting for the different height of the tools was brilliant and the wing table are an excellent idea. Great job.
Thanks - All your ideas are solid ones - it's too late for MY build but maybe somebody reading the comments will get the advice - I have almost tipped it over moving it around, so wider would be better - I never cut with it on the casters for that same reason too! I was worried about the wings brackets not being strong enough, but even after 2 years they are still really solid - thanks!
Hi This video helped me alot. Thank you. Just one question. How do i or where do i controll the power of the laser. I have actually successfully 3ngraved using your method but is is to dqrk. And on some spots very very deep
Dang bro, laying out the cash for Aspire, but spending 10 hours on a coaster. :-) Great job and love the workshop. I love FL weather, but it can be royal PITA when trying to get stuff done.
@@dieselrc9768 Ahh sorry to hear your other one melted! Yeah this one hasn't had any problems - even been in the garage here in Florida for the last year too
I really like the Hackerboxes Monthly subscription - hard to pick favorites because they have all been pretty cool, but there was one that had two boards that you set up to communicate with each other via laser diodes - that was probably my favorite
when i watched the video, it was great, but wonder if you would have done a mirror image of the male end of the pieces, it may have fit better together with no gaps. you started it at the beginning, showing little movement, but did not show it in the video that you did it, that may have been the gaps you had at the end. i am going to try it and use the mirror image as the male end of the pieces. your video was an easy watch. also, aspire does have an inlay toolpath for both male and female inlays. you just did not use it, are you going to do another video using it?? i would then subscribe.
Did you end up welding the Taisher pipe fitting to the bearing of the pillow block assembly? I'm having an issue when tightening the set screws of the pillow block pushing the pipe fitting downwards and screwing up the alignment causing the stationary and the revolving parts to rub when rotating the moving part. Wish I could send a picture. Thanks for any advice.
Nope I didn't do any welding, I think I also have some slight misalignment but maybe my gap is big enough I don't notice? What if you rotate the set screws to the same side, so the alignment is off evenly? just a thought
The set screws are at basically the 10 and 2 positions which is why pressure is all on one side. I also thought of drilling out and tapping holes for more set screws on the exact opposite sides from the existing set screws, so I think I'll explore that possibility. The whole issue is to keep the section of pipe from being able to move so I'll figure something out. I really like your design. I've looked at lots of different versions of the flip top but yours seems to be the only one using bearings which was something I had in mind so I'm glad to not have to design the whole thing. I'm using yours as a starting point and just making a few modifications. Thanks again for getting back to me and for your input.
Decided to quit worrying about the carriage/bearings issue and went ahead with building the frame assembly. Now that the pieces that hold the pipe flanges are secured the misalignment issues are quite a bit less. Still not perfect but should be usable as is. I don't post anything to RU-vid so I'll tell you quickly what some of the changes I made were. First off all of the flip top tool stand plans I saw use dimensional construction type wood. I think over time, as the wood dries it may tend to warp and twist in ways that may cause alignment and rubbing issues. I used solid wood, mostly oak. I pick up free tables off Craigslist and use the lumber from the table tops for other purposes, like this project. Instead of butt joints I used 3/4 inch box joints for the revolving part and rabbets for the frame assembly. I don't know if there is a way to send private messages in RU-vid but if you find a way I would be happy to send a few pictures. Again I think your design is the best I've seen.
@@jimkern7922 Yeah I don't think there are private messages - but you can email me at jamie@varitechllc.com - I'd love to see the pictures for sure - box joints and rabbets - yes that's definitely the way to go - I think for a lot of my projects I just get lazy and want to get it done so I skimp on the joinery I know is best LOL
I downloaded a Mach 3 Laser Post Processor from some forum somewhere, but it doesn't use PWM - it's either on or off - so it's not great - I've since changed to an Ortur Laser for all my laser stuff - for the PWM
@@bobheadzeek If I remember correctly (this was like 2 years ago) the main problem was the computer would have had to do the PWM and while that's OK for a spindle, it would not have been good enough for a laser - the breakout board I was using for the laser is something like C10 I think amzn.to/3OB9vEb
I built my first flip top bench a few weeks back based on a another youtube design and that didn't work out so well, primarily of novice mistakes. I converted it into a workbench instead. Since then I've been looking for alternative builds that are simple to execute for a beginner like myself. I have to say that I am very impressed by your built. It is super easy and I already have a set of flip down workbench wheels that I also want to integrate. Your design covers that too. And to top it all off, the flange pillow block is totally next level (especially for me). I am now planning on building this. Thank you so much for making the effort of sharing your built. I know it takes a lot of time to film these things. Much appreciated.
@@GeeksGoneBad hi..cnc router z axis drop occasionally while program running ….and normal movement move perfect but cnc router engraving happen you have any idea about this problem
@@mdsharook894 If the z axis is falling while you are in the middle of a job - it could be something like Idle current reduction - if the Z Axis is not constantly moving, it's possible there's a switch or setting that allows the driver to lower the current to save on power and keep the motor cooler - BUT that could also mean it's slipping because the lower current isn't enough to hold the motor in place with weight on the Z Axis... I'd look into your drivers and turn off idle current reduction for the motor and see if it still does it
Your video isn't as polished as some others, but your construction is far superior to other flip tables! Love the pillow blocks and wing supports. I hope that my copying your design is the ultimate praise..
I really appreciate the time you take to explain things. I just got my 1F up and running. I have done a couple projects and they turned out pretty good. Now you gave a link to the bits you used to carve this however I didn't see the .029 TBN in the video. Can you post the exact bit info and link to it. I really like your vids. Keep up the great work.