Appreciate the video very much. Im trying to remove the DPF (diesel particulate filter) and along with Erwin manual and your video, its going. Slowly but going. Couple comments: reason to remove metal hinge fitting rather than rubber hose to SCR additive injector is because this method prevents leak out of fluid. Annnd... access to the hidden 3rd. Nut on downpipe flange is a nightmare that i havent solved yet. Your suggestion for 15" of extensions, with a universal at the 12mm socket doesnt show where to access. And this may differ between cars OR having air ride UP position may be quite less opening than mine without air, but up on ramps. That one is a PITA for sure. Thanks again.
I can happily say , I was able to get my motor removed just by the diagrams and explanations of these videos. Thank you for making these videos and I hope they continue on. 💪 thanks again!
Great Videos as always Mark, where did you see that Malone tune does delete vacuum solenoid valve's which operates EGR and coolant bypass valve. In the add-ons descriptions only says "Remove DPF, Adblue,.EGR, and/or Intake Swirl Flap" on their website. I guess what i'm trueing to ask are you sure those vacuum lines are not needed any more for coolant bypass valve specifically? How was your experience with the kit and using car after install! Any issues ! Thank you for the help!
@@MilanDisljenkovic that is exactly what you need selected as you mentioned. Vacuum lines that are plugged had to do with the EGR cooler itself. Since that got removed, any wire harness to it doesn't send a signal to the EGR any more which means no CEL. Though there is still vacuum on the lines that are left, it's really not being used anymore And no issues at all
@@markb6s4 Thank you for the feedback Mark. Appreciate that. Was not sure how this will affect that coolant bypass valve since that is vacuum operated.
Great video! Thanks for putting this together. 2015 CD here, deleted and running Oakes tunes. I want to get rid of the egr crap and clean my intake, this helps a lot. I do have one question, what is the "solenoid" you are removing at 27:00 minutes?
@@OverHereAndOverThere Audis fancy name for it is (Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Control Solenoid. Part# 1K0906283A). And happy to hear this video is of help!!
He did the final fluid check incorrectly but corrected it here! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FXI4AqBXtds.html Just reposting to make sure someone does not underfill haha.
Great video but a few corrections. You don't need VCDS, you can check the temperature with an infrared thermometer OR any birectional scan tool that can read the Trans Control Module. Also, you are supposed to check the fluid/let the trans drip out the excess while the car is running and in (P). If you check while OFF you will drain excess. Just a tip for others!
Yes you are correct. VCDS isn't needed and any scan tool to read temps works the same. If I could redo that portion of the video I would of mentioned that. And yes you are also correct on the filling portion, read your other comment. Thank you!
Wow what a great video! Just afraid of doing all that work man. I have a high pitch noise on the EGR actuator valve. If I remove the little vacuum line from it, the noise goes away.. any harm driving it that way? What happens if I just disconnect that vacuum hose?
Yes, and because the EGR is exhaust gas recirculation. So what's happening is the exhaust is being sent back into the pipe. And exhaust is HOT air. If the lines are plugged, removed, etc. The actuators inside the EGR cooler won't be functioning. So the cooling won't be happening and you'll be sending hot exhaust straight back into the manifold. Then which will defeat the purpose of the clean air going through the intercoolers. You may be at risk of melting some stuff in the long run. The intake pipe and manifold are plastic. Another solution is if you get the car tuned with the EGR stuff all coded out. And I did this for about 30,000 miles til I finally removed the EGR cooler. With that coded out I didn't get any CEL. So it shuts off the EGR valve so that no exhaust is being recerculated. And that why in the video part when it was time to clean I didn't have a lot of carbon build up. Hope this is information is of help 😊
@@markb6s4Thanks! Vacuum line is still connected, just has a high pitch noise coming from that EGR actuator valve. Car drives fine, just not sure if its actually doing the job or what…
@@chelo9724 The cheapest route is to get it tuned with the deletes coded in. Once it's coded the EGR just becomes paper wait until it's removed. And I had it as paper weight for 30,000 miles
Hey mate we haven't spoken in a couple years..buddy I'm struggling to find a engine wiring harness for my Auto S4 here in Australia I've struggled to source any parts for it..itsucks and has put my build on the back burner..can u suggest a company I can hit up whether it be new or used..please mate all the help you can give will be so appreciated I'm getting desperate to get my baby back on the Rd where she deserves to be...talk soon I hope u get this..and hope u still own your beauty
Hi man i really am grateful for all your q7 videos helped me a ton What problems did you faced with the torn boot And what changed did you feel and when you replaced the differential oil earlier My prop shaft popped off in a pothole Although i someone managed to pop it back it i am skeptical Also my car is making vibration at low speed sharp turns people say its quattro rumble which is fixed by differential oil change
So I didn't notice any problems with drivability. My main concern was for any debre or a rock to some how just perfectly get through the torn boot and do some damage to the cv joints. To be completely honest I didn't notice any difference changing out the rear diff oil. I just new it had to be done since Im 100% sure it wasn't done with the 1st owner when they had it. I have all the records of what was done but diff and transmission oil was not on the list
When you removed the motor from the transmission , did you jack the from the transmission , while simultaneously using the cherry picker , to achieve the angle to remove it as well?
@@markb6s4 sorry I’m asking so much, I got the bottom 4 transmission bolts out. Does the intake have to come off to access the top 2 transmission bolts? And what’s the strategy on reaching the bolts on the side and with the starter?
@@SKLLY-gg1nf Sorry for the late reply. Just now seeing this. No, the intake manifold does not need to be removed. But all the sensors that are connected on the top rear part of the engine does help to give you more clearance in reaching the top bolts.
@@SKLLY-gg1nfand for the starter. If my memory serves me right. The bottoms bolt will remain in place bc of the passenger front axle. If you try to remove that bolt it will bump up against the axle. And for the top bolts of the starter that has enough clearance to be removed
great video man, just got my B6 A4 3.0 and I love it. Glad to see another passionate B6 owner. They are definitely hard to come by these days. Please don’t lose motivation with your build I plan to follow you throughout your journey as I plan on growing old with mine as well. Us B6 owners gotta stick together out here, truly a dying breed for sure. Prost 🥂 🇩🇪
Also would start with the crank sensor too. Crank sensor is located on the tranmission bell on the driver side. In the 2 oclock position when looking towards the front of the car. The connection is by where all the connection on the driver side on the secondary wall by the expansion tank is
Well I got to the part where I added one can. The can pressurized and my gauges moved to around 80psi on low and 100psi on high. I got an 07 model, the ECON mode didnt wanna turn off so my compressor didnt kick on and from there I got stuck. Took the can off after 3 min and only 4-5oz went into the system and wouldnt take more. Put a new bottle just in case. And no luck. Video is great! Thank you.
@@SKLLY-gg1nf go into detail in this video. And the next one following that video has the assories going on. Feel free to search around on my channel ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--Yia2y239vg.htmlsi=xpg6s_pltbVCdbLM
@maratmuhanov9040 hi, unfortunately, I really have no idea where my stock fuel pump is. I know I never sold it or thrown it out. And right now it's not easy for me to go find it since where all my stock stuff is far way from where I live at the moment
Hey friend thanks for this video saver $$$$ the stealer wants over $1000 to do this same job a me Cadillac smh anyway that barb you use can you confirm that thread size and does it screw into the same threads as the plastic tube????
This is the drain plug details (VW Porsche Auto Trans Drain Plug - Genuine VW WHT005510) and the size it says is M10x9. Please verify if this is correct. Can't remember off the top of my head. And the plastic tube I used for the pump was the right fit for the barbs
All for nothing!!... They are built wrong!!!.. with cheap materials..some happen at 50..60.000 miles... Really??.. you spend 90...100,000$ and doesn't last 60,000 miles??????... Nothing new!!!.. who is the fool..???
As of now. Aug.24,2024 I have had no issues with the lights. And from what I have read in the past some people may not be so lucky and have had some issues. Again I don't daily drive the car. Don't know if that adds any value to my statement that I haven't had any issues
This is a 2013. Soni know this works for the 2013-2015 models. As mentioned towards the end of the video I am not sure it it can be done or not for the 2007-2012 models
@@jagerthedog4378 if you haven't already. Make sure to check out the engine rebuild parts 1-14 on my channel. There you can see the whole process and also in hopes that it is of usefully information and you learn from them.
Not the best explanation. What do u mean car is on? Gearbox is still when its on. U need to fill it with aproc amount. Disconnect. Run a car, shift though gears. Reopen fill some more till drips. U can repeat that once more to be safe. Make shure its level.
I’ve got a b7 s4 Avant … lots of fun mods planned. Mine is dolphin grey which is dang nice when it’s all buffed out. The brushed aluminum trim is a nice addition with the dolphin grey too.
Little late to the party on this one but I’m currently trying to lock my timing in place. I got the Schwaben timing tools and was wondering where you put the crank lock pin? Do I need to use it or are the plates to hold the cams in place enough?
@@MasonDesjardins so I failed to mention towards the beginning of the video the crank lock pin does need to be installed. I installed it in a previous video before this on. I only mention removing the pin once it's time to rotate the engine. I talk about it at the @24:48 min mark about the removal. For installing the crank pin. Remove the cover that's covering the to get to the crank. Once removed rotate the engine till you see the hole where the crank lock pin goes. You'll be able to notice it. Once the crank pin is all the way threaded in. Then go ahead and start removing the timing components. Install the new timing components and then as in the video at the 24:48 min mark the pin can be removed
@@MasonDesjardins the plates to hold the cans are not enough!!!!! Please use the correct tool on the cams side to hold it in place along with the cam plate tool. do not rely on that plate only. its only to help align the cams in correct place.
@@eugen8498 e60 m5, I personally liked how the lip goes along the curvature of the B6 bumper. At first I had a universal one and the curvature really didn't fallow the lines of the bumper
@@David-yy7lb in a previous video I explain as to what happened to the engine. since the engine was going somewhere else to be rebuilt. I didnt want to cause any more damage to it when removing the timing.
How did you put the Q7 on jack stands ? I have one and can’t find a central jack point to lift front or rear and out the stands . Thank you for this video!!
@@raddrock559 I've seen there is a company who sells paint for calipers that use a paint brush. But I don't know the name of it. I think I saw it on Amazon. As for the result I can't speak on that.
An easier way to put the needles back to where they need to be without using power is by just pressing them back on to the pins and rotating them counter-clockwise and stopping them at 0. Make sure you are moving them counter-clockwise though! The best way is to connect power and turn it on, connect to 17 - Instrument Cluster with VCDS and perform an output test which will locate the speedometer to 100, temp to 90, and I forget the values of the other two.
Is that filter serviceable without pulling the transmission? Ive seen a lot of people saying it isnt but ive also seen them for sale. Trying to get everything in place for service soon and would pike to chamge the filter if possible. Thanks for the video and your help!
If I'm understanding your question correctly. No need to pull the transmission. The transmission mission stays in place. The filter can be easily assessed from the bottom.
