Fix your fucking audio! I can hear every slap, clip, tap of your lips and tongue. You are trying too hard. Just talk normal. I don't want you to be whispering in my ear.
Anyone using this with an A7Rii with success? I printed one, and the entire focus ring is visible when screwed either completely down or as far out as it can go. As in, I see mostly the color (red in my case). The only way the 3d print doesn't obstruct the sensor is if I take the focus ring off completely, leaving just the e-mount adapter locked into the camera, but of course that serves no purpose.
What a great video I have been looking at doing something like this with Raspberry Pi. No my thought process to would be if there is a program or a script you could use, that would mimic live view composite like on the Panasonic cameras. LVC takes a base photo which becomes your general exposure so all following photos just show changes in your environment without over sampling and overexposing you can look up making star trails with live view composite
Really good video. Regarding polishing did You try dichloromethane vapors? You have to be careful with it. But the result should be extremely good if you polished the surface mechanically that far. I have a very good results with polishing PC helmet visors that way. On RU-vid, it's here for example ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--SV_ka1FPmM.html. People in the videos are not aware of how dangerous dichloromethane is.
I found the panomicron blog about viewfinder design and thought I'd be happy with a plain viewfinder for the 6x17 camera I designed. I thought I could live with physical mask overlays on the objective lens, then I found your hybrid viewfinder post. Wow what a great post and video... but curse you! Now I feel compelled to try to make a hybrid viewfinder with changeable projected overlays. Great job... subscribed
could you maybe buy a positive of the lens you want, make a negative from that out of plastic or resin maybe, and then use that as the mold for the final product?
I tried that and had a few issues with this process. When using resin for the negative mold you're limited with regard to geometry because your resin mold is rigid and you need to separate it from the first lens+plastic mold. When using silicone for the second mold instead, every surface needs to be coated with mold release so silicone won't bind to silicone and this ruins the surface quality.
Short answer: you could, but you couldn't focus to infinity. Long answer: the distance between lens mount and sensor is 44mm for Canon EF lenses (and similar for other DSLR cameras) to accommodate the mirror. If you would place the disposable camera lens with ~30mm focal length right at the lens mount of the DSLR you could only use It as a close-up macro lens because you could never move the the lens close enough to the sensor to get a focus at objects more than a meter (or so) away.
@@vlztn I tried it on a Canon 700d (DSLR) and it's true that it can only focus at a distance of 3-5cm. Can I improve this lens with a long plastic tube to attach to the body cap? How long is good enough?
This is 2yrs old and barely any comments??? Wow! This really deserves much more praise. Not many people are adventuring into adding visual complexity to 3D printed parts besides just creating them. Kudos!
Would it be possible for you to share the link to buy the mirror material? I want to vacuum form and there are way to many options which do not seem so promising
Erstmal danke für die 3D Druck Dateien und die ausführliche Anleitung. Bei dem Objektiv mit einer Linse ist es mir leider nicht möglich Objektive in einer Entfernung von mehr als 30cm scharf zu stellen. Ich habe hierbei die gleiche Kamera benutzt. Gibt es hierfür eine Lösung? Danke im Voraus!
Dann ist die Linse etwas zu weit vom Sensor entfernt (oder die Linse die Du verwendest hat eine etwas geringere Brennweite). Im Blogbeitrag sind die Fusion360 Dateien verlinkt, der Abstand der Linse zum Sensor kann man da als eine Variable ändern: help.autodesk.com/view/fusion360/ENU/?guid=SLD-MODIFY-CHANGE-PARAMETERS Das ist ein wenig Fummelarbeit mit Neuausdrucken und Ausprobieren um für eine unbekannte Linse den genauen Abstand zu finden, aber wenn man nahe genug dran ist macht das Fokusgewinde den Rest.
Hi! Maybe my question is silly, but... what is the minimum distance to keep between the lens itself and the sensor? I built one, drilling a camera body cap, and placing the lens in the inside of it, I think it's too close because it does not focus at all
If the distance between lens and sensor is exactly the same as the focal length of the lens, objects at infinity are in focus. Most disposable camera lenses have a focal length somewhere between 30-35 millimetres, the flange distance (metal ring to sensor surface) is 18mm for Sony E-mount cameras, so you probably need to move the lens a centimetre in away from the camera.
Hello my friend, first I would like to thank you for the video and for inspiring me to think and desire to create something similar. I have a Sony a7rV, and I want to do a similar project and use your 3D file. I don't have a disposable camera, and I thought that buying a lens made of glass would allow me to get a better optical result. What are the measurements that I should order? I would really appreciate it if you could help me, and maybe we could talk by email/another way ❤️
I would guess that using a single glass lens would decrease and not improve the image quality. There is quite some clever engineering involved in making these aspherical plastic lenses. If you buy a singe off-the-shelf glass lens you'll have some new problems (different optical aberrations). If you still want to try that I would recommend to select a lens from the Thorlabs or Edmund Optics catalogue first and then design a lens housing around the dimensions and focal length of that lens. In the linked blog post you can find the Fusion360 design files if you want to use these as a starting point.
yes. if the flange distance is 18mm your lens should have a focal length longer than that otherwise the lens would need to be able to move slightly into the camera housing to focus at infinity.
Mount worked great on my nex-5n. But i stumbled upon an error once trying to use it: “cannot recognize lens. Please attach it properly “. Anyone knows how to fix this?
The basic principle would be the same but the distance between lens and sensor would need to be much longer so it works as a macro. Probably it would be easier to design a new housing from scratch instead of adjusting the one I did for the disposable camera lens.
so, I'll be trying to adapt this idea to a dslr lens. to correct for the flange focal distance, i guess you could add a diverging lens before the point of convergence (like glasses for the nearsighted) of the disposable lens? how would you go about calculating the right specs ?
I guess that would work. The easiest way to tinker around with lenses is this website: opticexplorer.sharedigm.com/ You don't need to use lens assemblies made of multiple single lenses, you can just use two single lenses and adjust some distances. An estimate of the correct distance from the website should be enough for you to design and print a physical part and do the adjustments in the distances with a bit of paper as spacers or focus screws. The most straightforward way to get a decent selection of lenses and worldwide shipping is Edmund Optics or Thorlabs.
No, I own only Sony E-mount cameras. If you are familiar with Fusion360 you can design your own flange adapter for the X-mount and reuse all the other parts. CAD files can be found in the blog post linked in the description.
possible: yes, but it would not be much of a benefit. The single plastic lens has pretty bad optical aberrations (sharpness, vignette, ...) compared to optical systems with multiple glass elements. The designers did solve this problem by using the lens only with the very small fixed aperture. With an adjustable aperture one could open it up (and the image would get pretty soft probably) or close it down further (probably after two or three stops diffraction would be an issue)
@@vlztn Thanks, I have an old Film Yashika Electra 35 lens that used to be radium coated. I am keen to use that on my Sony A7RV, but I don't know how to build adapter for that
1:40 I've never really understood - what about the disposable cameras made it impossible to just put new film in them? Why would the factory have to make new ones when they could automate a process to reload then with film?
I guess making a machine complex enough to open the enclosure that has been unloaded by some random lab technician previously, reload a film, close it again and ensure it is light tight was deemed not economical.
The issue came down to the lack of financial incentives for photofinishers to attempt to salvage a disposable camera... no manufacturers were buying the old carcasses. They could not be resold by photofinishers that were also camera retailers so that even while we could open them carefully and reload them to do so would be fraud. Then there was potential issue of battery reliability when reused repeatedly. I used to give used ones away until it got tiring, then just cracked them open the fastest way possible to extract the film. Whenever anyone brought in a disposable to have film developed I'd sell them a cheap reusable camera instead of letting them buy a disposable. Now they're pretty much dead thankfully
could you do something like this for a rifle scope? Is there any books or websites you would recommend to learn how to do this in more depth? If you were to add this in front of a scope how would it affect the transparency of the scope with the view finder in its path? Could you still get 90 % transparency? Your project is fantastic!! thank you for posting.
I listed my sources at the end of the blog entry: volzo.de/thing/hybridviewfinder/ The optics books explain the fundamentals in depth but are not exactly beginner friendly. To the best of my knowledge riflescope designs are basically the same as the viewfinder but in reverse (thus increasing the magnification instead of reducing it) and are not using a Galilean geometry (so they need to have a focal length sufficiently long that the image can flip inside the riflescope barrel and exits upright again). That makes the optical design a lot more complex than just a positive and a negative lens with a beamsplitter in-between and less suitable for DIY projects. But the concept is the same: put a beamsplitter in the right spot. Controlling the transparency is easy, it depends solely on the beamsplitter and ratios like 50/50 or 70/30 are common. I remember seeing a similar project with a small single-color display for a riflescope a few years ago, but couldn't find it in a quick search.
ok thanks..would you happen to know the transmission rate of those len's combined with the prisms? and if this setup would be the best setup to use on a regular rifle scope? I want to add my own small screen in the path of the scope so i can add some images like you did...but its for a scope so i want to keep the profile down if that is possible. Perhaps a different configuration..thanks
I'm afraid I don't know enough about riflescopes in general to say anything helpful in that regard. The transmission rate is probably something you can calculate from the datasheet of the lens manufacturer.
