Welcome to my channel! I love all things DIY - building with wood, metal, wires, 3D printing, CNC routing, crafting, etc. I love learning new skills, techniques and ideas. I can't wait to see what comes next, and hopefully you can't either!
I just found this in my feed, probably because i sub to a ton of tinkering channels lol. Anyway, I am obsessed with repurposing electronics like this so am glad to find another tinker dude. I appreciate the amount of time and effort to make these videos and notice its a few years old so my input may be completely obsolete but... I think most viewers do not like the music bed in videos like this. We want to focus on the words and actions. Secondly and more importantly we viewers need to see the circuit board when the maker is soldering or altering it at all. I understand that its a pain to make up a schematic (but we appreciate it when someone does!) but if there is at the very least a close up shot that we can pause on to make notes it is helpful. I am experienced with electrical engineering so understood what you did but most of us are average folks who are using these to learn the ropes because they too want to tinker and need to actually see the work, at least after its soldered. Once again, thank you for the video and it was very enjoyable!
Great video. Going to try this on my lunch break. I forgot my IR capture card in Florida and need to get a HDMI switches IR code captured so I can upload it to an RTI automation system
Thanks, this is the only tutorial I found working, only thing I had to add was put "sudo" before python3 in Exec line because my application needed that to run.
Thanks for the explanations. Over the past several years I used four 50 ft #12 extension cords plugged into a 15 amp outlet about 50 feet from the breaker panel to power a Skilsaw. The use was not always intermittent. The saw seemed to be somewhat underpowered but never got too hot, still did the job, and seems just as good today. Maybe Skil made those old saws tough enough to survive significant voltage drop. I recently made a #8 250 foot "extension cord" (plugged into a recepticle near the breaker panel protected by a 15 amp breaker). The saw is noticably more powerful.
Yeah and HiKoki just sells those just saying. For me a gamechanger and a fresh revelation would be a switch on FlexVolt to choose 60/20 Volt feed to choose if I grind or I cut stuff to prolong battery life. Can it be done DIY ?
Putting back the cord to cordless tools is trying to have the same benefits of a laptop. At least that's how I see it. And it's worth while effort for the more power hungry tools like circular saws, angle grinders, etc. These tend to chew through (big) batteries much faster than a drill or a driver. I'm currently investigating this topic as I also want to build a corded adapter myself. This is how I found your video. My thoughts on this: best candidate for conversion would be brushless tools, because you'll have more protection features implemented in the motor controller. If it has soft start, kick back or motor stall protection, it will get rid of the major head-ache of having a supply able to provide the motor stall current repeatedly without giving up the ghost. Motor stall current tend to be significantly higher than working current, even under load. Before checking our your other videos on the topic (I'm curious to see how you built it): If you go the transformer route: get a toroidal transformer. I'm not sure if I'd add a DC/DC converter, to provide a regulated voltage to the tool, maybe just a voltage clamp, to keep the no-load voltage in check. And I'd put as much filtering capacity as I can after the rectifier, to lower the overall impedance of the supply. I would put the same in the empty battery shell at the tool. This build would require having the transformer in a sepparate box, and some heavy gauge wire in between the box and battery shell. But as you said: if you already factor in the price of the transformer, and the rest of the needed components, you are already in the price range of full AC/DC converters in the same power range, with the benefit of a significantly lower weight. Again, lots of caps in the battery shell, to provide a nice energy buffer right at the tool and also to compensate the additional impedance from the wires. Plus a switch mode power supply may have also the feature to compensate the voltage loss across the wires connecting it to the load (using smaller gauge sense wires, connected at the point of load). Now... having rambled enough, I'll go take a look at the rest of the videos you made on this topic. To wrap it up: great video, you nailed a lot of valid points.
You REALLY should add a low voltage shut off, specially with them constantly drain the battery, if the cells completely deplete you'll just have a very expensive paperweight.
My mom recently passed and my daughter found a heart shaped clock she wanted to keep that belonged to grandma. The clock does not work so I told her I would replace the mechanism. I have no idea what I am doing. Your video was the best I found for easy, to the point explanation. Thank you. I now have to find the actual mechanism to fit.
Is it ok to run a treadmill with an extension cord rated at 13a 1625v 16/3 g and 25 ft. The reason im doing this is because the outlet in my room causes a buzzing sound when i plug the treamdill into that outlet. Thanks in advance for any and all advice!
I know I am late for the party, I'm just glad to show up. After investing hours in trying to make a stupid LED flash at startup, your video solved my problem. How did the world function before online videos? Thank you BaldGuyDIY, Charles
any idea how to do this setup: in my back yard i have around 20 small solar light ( like the 1$ ones u used ), they don't power up the same and always discharge quickly. to fix this issue, i would like to get a bigger solar panel, with 1 big battery and connect all the 20 independent lights to the same 1 battery ( but have the solar panel give it an auto on and auto off ) so this way all the lights are all on and at the same intensity for the whole night.
Hello, it only works to a limited extent. I have a Python Modbus script that listens on port 502. When I start the script automatically like this I get the error message that the port is already in use. I've already tried everything possible. But the error only occurs with the autostart function. maybe an idea? Would be grateful!
I’ve made a few of these actually I’ve just made my last one the other finished a couple days ago and I used a blackened deck, decker pivot plus just one little hand drills and hooked it to a 12 V battery car battery that I used to jump my lawnmower with, and I got a little extension cord hooked into the batteries for the positive and negativeand it goes like an old trailer plug in the back with the two prongs on it and attached to the battery the 12 V car battery made a handful of them. They work for a while and then don’t wish I could send you a picture.
needed this info for creating a market show booth--thx--what are the holes in the studs for? They don't line up like electrical access. Obviously done after creating the studs so what purpose?
I try to let my esp32 comunicate with my pi to than on my pi run a flask website to show my esp32 topics i litarly tried everything but im not getting there
Ty for the video. I used the EXACT Arduino code that you showed on the video. The code compiled perfectly. After I uploaded the Arduino code, my serial monitor says.....Attempting MQTT connection...failed, rc=-2 try again in 5 seconds. Can you please tell me how to fix this issue? Ty!