Thank you David for the high quality, detailed and well filmed video. Helped me a lot in solving the problem. Attached is a link to the video I shot on how to fix the mechanism. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Pjpu3BLKny0.html
Water was weeping into the right side of toilet pan I replaced the siphon just like you did but its still weeping into the right side, Ive cleaned out any limescale I could find in the cistern. Any help would be much appreciated !!
This video has probably saved me £300 - thank you David! Extremely well documented, my toilet set up is is exactly as mine is. You calmly explained everything and as someone with ZERO experience plumbing or anything DIY you were reassuring where things can move around. this has to be one of the best instructional videos! 🙏
Hi David, I bought a new entry filling valve..I didn't remember where the old one sit. I'm in trouble, i couldn't figure out where the valve will hang on. Your help wll ge highly appreciated.
If you strip down the top part of the flush camber it should fix the problem it fixed mine with out buying a new one, pull the top off slowly from the camber then there will be a black guide then pull top flout out then another spacer between the top and bottom flout there should be two round small magnets glued to the bottom of the plastic camber but one of mine was stuck to the bottom flout as the bottom of the flout has two metal discs so the flout can attach to, to keep bottom flout in place to seal ,to keep water from leaking into toilet pan thats why when you pushed the plastic pin in your video it was loose no magnet, when you glue magnet back to the bottom the pin becomes tight i wish I video stripping down the flush camber... you will save your self £30 to £40 pound hope this helps
Just a note of thanks for this. Struggled for half a day and got nowhere with a constantly running flush. Watch your video and everything clicked into place, literally. Much appreciated.
This was very useful. I dismantled the unit and found that the “click” is due to a pair of magnets fixed on plastic tabs on the base of the main unit. They had become detached and were stuck to the metal plates on the bottom styrene float. I detached them and stuck them back with a dab of superglue and the unit is working perfectly again. I have however order a new unit as I am sure the glue will fail with time but it does appear to be a semi permanent fix.
That’s good advice. I knew there were magnets in the new one, but not sure whether my old one had these, as I didn’t bother dismantling it. The right glue will probably last a while, but replacing it might save you headaches down the line.
Hi! I did all of this, but it seems that there’s something on the left that isn’t working? There are two little feet almost- when I hold them up near the top, the water stops running. When they fall, it starts again. Any idea?
I have changed the flush value, the locking mechanism, have totally cleaned the outlet, but still leaking water, is there a washer that goes on top of the outlet hole? The flush value although new, do have a bit of looseness, meaning when I pull the little hook towards me, the leakage stops. Does this mean I need to change the flush valve??
I’m sorry, I don’t know why it wouldn’t work. There is no washer on top of the outlet hole, but you do want to check whether there is any scale formation there. That would prevent a good seal.
Thanks David. I've got a 2003 model which has a slightly different flush valve and a blue silicon seal. The seal was caked in calcium, but once I flaked it off and scrubbed it clean with vinegar, it sealed well. My unit had a positive "click" sound like your replacement valve does, so I did not have to replace it.
There are generally only 2 reasons why you’d have a trickle: 1) The flush valve is allowing water to pass, which is the problem this video addresses; and 2) The float it not calibrated correctly, and doesn’t shut off the water supply. The latter is much less likely, and if it ever worked (ie. it was installed correctly initially), this is unlikely to be the issue. Good luck!
Thank you David! I followed your video and changed the whole oval parts, but why the oval parts didn't go down and the sticks also didn't come out automatically as usual after the flush? So I need to pull the stick manually，then the oval parts will go down. What's wrong with this? Do I need to change the other parts? Please advise. Many thanks!
Hi, I’m just trying cut off water till a plumber come and fix it but I can’t figure out how to do it. I wonder my cut off valve is broken too? How do you know? Thanks
Inside the flush valve are two magnets, these can come loose. This results in the valve not snapping shut, and has the same symptoms as your old valve.
Thanks, Ian. I suspected as much. It might be possible to disassemble the valve, but I didn’t bother to try. If it happens again, I might give it a go. Mine is still working after all this time.
Hi David Great video. I had the same issue and followed your steps and the flush has started working again. I have the issue of the flush constantly trickling. I had this issue before but pushing the lever gently a few times did stop it however it doesn’t seem to do the trick anymore. Would you be able to shed some light on this? Thanks
are you a science teacher by any chance.A very elaborate, scientifically & logically explained video.I live in a house made by Bellway.They didn't even know the brand of the cistern they installed..Your video is a life saver...Most plumber don't even want to attempt a repair....Thanks a lot
No, I’m not a science teacher, but I have an engineering degree and work in IT, and I like to fix things and help others to do so as well. I’m glad this video helped you. 😊
Thank you very much. It helped me a lot. Because I enjoyed it so much - I also want to share with others how you the "Outlet valve" can be fixed. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-i44ScMVBR_4.html
Excellent. My toilet interior is pretty much identical to yours so I have just used this instructional video to fix my leaking cistern. In my case, the seal had bubbled (which I knew to look for thanks to another video) and produced water blisters. I used a pin to prick those bubbles, followed your video to reassemble and now it all works. I expect it's only a matter of time before I need to replace the seal altogether but I now know how to do that when the time comes. Thanks!
Glad to hear it! And I’m sure it goes without saying that you can replace just the seal without replacing the whole valve assembly. Replacement seals are fairly cheap, but be sure to get the official ones. I tried my local B&Q, but they didn’t have the right size.
Hi, thanks for the video. I wonder if you know what should be the position of the black ring over the floating element? You can see it at minute 6:40 in the video.
I tried it in different positions on the old valve, to see if it would fix the problem. (It didn’t.) I left the new one the way it came from the factory. From memory, it was on the 2nd or 3rd step from the top. There should be some movement in the float.
Thanks for a superb helpful video. Are you familiar with a linkage phenomena from the outside bottom side of the eater container where the flushing pipe is attached ? Is there any gasket there or is it an integrated part? Thanks
