I have 2 valves and both are as clean as they get. This problem might be something else, had it in spring and cleaned all connectors and it dissapeared...until a few days ago. Engine starts fine but has an unusual high idle(1500rpm-2000rpm) after about 10 mins of driving the idle just dissapear completely, like someone is pushing the off switch. But the engine works as usual but stalls if you ever stops pushing the gas pedal a bit. No hesitation just stall directly. if you sit and keep it alive with gas for about a minute or two you can lure the idle back. after it stalls you can start it right back up like nothing happened but still no idle, if you dont let i cool down then you get your high 1500-2000rpm until it gets a bit hot and then its gone again. I start to suspect the throttle potentiometer, maybe its worn and dont send signal to the system that i stopped and dont push gas pedal no more? The ride home was "fun" braking with the handbrake so i could keep it alive with the gas pedal at every stop light.

@@MalindoWe Yes. Rust is a chemical reaction between metal, water, air. If you put a barrier between the metal and air+ water the reaction cant happen. Paint just sits on top of the rust so air and water can easily sneak in to the base metal for more rust, or gets trapped under the paint or coating for even more rust making. The oil creeps in and sits on top of the base metal preventing air and water from getting to it. Check out a car with an oil leak, where the oil is there is very little rust. The downside is that the oil can get washed away so you have to apply more after about 2 years.

You can tell by the connector, early ones were round ish like that, like my 86 turbo, but the newer ones have box connections

@@harlow1126 What connectors are you refering to? Under the AC fastening is the number: 752170 In front on top the gearbox in front of the clutch there is a little sign with a bar code and the number: B09668 Is that some kind of identification?

@@saab900turbo9 specifically the three pin connector coming off the distributor

Thanks now i know where to search. Lucas came on the late models 1990-1993. The turbo got water and oil pipes so it seems to be at least 1987. If im fixing this up i want to be 100% on the model and year so i dont order wrong things for it. My car got lucas so at least i now got spare parts. This will be a later project because my main brake cylinder in the volvo is leaking internally, and the whole brake system needs much attention so this winter i will focus on that. The volvo brand is still alive and well so i got access to all original parts. For about 1000 dollars i will get new disks, calipers and hoses + the main brake cylinder of course.

yes it works and is very common to use against rust. The biggest problem is that its a bit messy and the fire hazard it poses in rags and paper you use while applying it. And it is friendly to the environment. The raw non boiled one is best. I have heard that fluid film is also very good to use.

Its tuned so i want to know the pressure. Its old and its good to keep an eye on it, especially if something goes wrong. It is 33 years old so it can happen. 1 bar instead of 0.7 and keeps pressure better at higher rpm. Saab 9000 intercooler in front and some other small tweaks/fixes.

takes 24 hours to cure though. But tomorrow i will get out on a longer ride, was about one year since i last drove it more than around the block. So its needed.

The first minute of the video you see that you can remove the tensioner if you remove the nut, the bolt is annoying to get back so just keep that in place with a finger from back side. With the nut loose you can as in the video remove the tensioner and the power steering pump will swing very freely if you have loosened the other bolts of course. The only thing i did not mention in the video but can be seen is the metal and rubber pipes to and from the pump are a bit stiff but not really a big hinder. In the video i could remove the belt with one hand so i am not sure what you get stuck on if you removed the tensioner?

@@saab900turbo9 Thank you. Maybe in my logic it was a bit absurd to have to remove parts if all I want is to change a (***) belt, but we did it in the end quite along the lines that you suggested

Not mint but pretty close.

Here in sweden saab and volvo where rivals before saab died and volvo got bought by china, kinda fun to put them beside each other. 😉

Was very lucky that day. One of the few days the weather was good. Now its around 0c at night and around 4c on days with constant rain. To the weekend it should be better they say.

​@@saab900turbo9Been raining here in North Carolina for many days in a row. The whole southeast of the US has been getting thunderstorms. Quite a bit warmer over here though - between 28-33C some days, and very humid

@@austinvitoux5835 Here records is broken on how cold it is, winter just wont loose its grip. Today seems to be a bit better but still very cold for the season.

Nice, hope you have fun!

The insane part is that its lowered with sport springs 😮. And the plug is close to the left front of the car. More cars should adopt this.

@@saab900turbo9 yes, the saab 96 has 197 mm of ground clearance stock and the new porsche cayenne has 208 mm ground clearance :) fucking new "offrodader" its kinda embarassing to see a 1970s family car be better than a 2024 super offroader

@@myyracommunity4932 some old cars put new to shame. I will have to check my old Volvos ground clearance, its high...really high.

@@saab900turbo9 my grandpa actually used my saab 96 as a hunting car, he was able to go in forest with it and it served in that purpose for pretty much 5 years, i have heard that once he got stuck when it sunk and got stuck from the bottom. But other than that he was able to drive on rocks and shit. You can see the 96 on my channel being started from -24 after i woke it up from its 20 years of sleep. Some amazing cars were made back in the day, and oh to mention the freewheeling clutch it enables you to shift gears without using the clutch pedal.

@@myyracommunity4932 I think older cars was made more for usefulness than cool factor. Many modern cars go for thats sports car look but suffer in how useful they are in like your example in the woods.

Yes its called age and wear 😉. Most cars have places to adjust for these things as they age. This car is also modified with much bigger IC, modified APC. There is a rod to adjust for a reason or else there would just be a rod with no adjust points at all. The repair handbook says that is the way to do it so i follow that. Right or not it works.

@@saab900turbo9 It did not work on my 9-3 T5 t25, I lowered the boost at both base and max boost, because the gate was not closed 100% anymore when adjusting the rod longer then stock. Had to replace the actuator to get a correct base boost, because the old one could no longer travel far enough to fully close and fully open anymore. The adjustment is there because the actuator is a universal part that fits multiple turboes.

​@@larsjrgensen5975 Then yours was obviously faulty or broken . It worked on this. The turbos might be different. On this one the shorter the rod the more boost and longer rod less boost. If i could not reach desired boost level i also would have changed this, but now i did. Well the instruction book says its there for adjustment. And i would be quite surprised if it did not need any adjustment after 33+ years. My base boost is now correct. I think the adjustable rod has multiple purposes. The ACP on this car works against base boost. I have modified it so if the base boost is 0.45 the max boost is 1.0 bar(0,7 standard). It was 0,6 so the full boost was close to 1,2 but seemed to try to climb more before the knock sensor stepped in and pulled it down to safer levels. I have also told it to keep the boost longer, at high revs the boost can drop very low on most cars. This tries too keep it as high as possible even at high revs.

@@saab900turbo9 As for as I know 0.15 bar higher base boost does not change the max boost to 0.2 bar higher, because the base boost is still lower then max boost, so the wastegate should have no problem adjusting the max boost down to the level the ECU is programmed to run at, if it works correctly. You are mentioning 33+ years, is the wastegate actuator 33 years old? if yes then I think yours is worth replacing too. If the APC system is able to boost higher then 1.2 and to a level where the engine starts knocking, but then lower the boost to safer levels then the APC system works, if you prevent this from happening with hardware you are sabotaging the system from working correctly. You should program the ECU to get the lower boost level instead of adjusting the wastegate.

​@@larsjrgensen5975 The base boost is supposed to be 0.45 and the APC(ECU has nothing to do with the turbo on this old car)use this to calculate max boost. How to "program" it is that you open up the box and solder it and turn some knobs. Its like all computers that base all their speeds on the Ring bus/infinity fabric former known as front side bus. It looks at the bus and the ads a multiplier on it and then you have the speed for example on the cpu. before unlocked multipliers(like i tuned my box) you tweaked the FSB for more speed. Example: bus 100mhz, cpu speed is bus *15 = 1500mhz. if you could not go beyond 15 you could instead tweek the bus: bus 125mhz *15 = 1875mhz cpu speed. however it could ad a host on problems because everything in the computer calculate the speed with this bus. I think this system behaves very similar, i looks at base speed and ads a multiplier or just 0.x bar boost to that. If the base boost is 0.1 bar or 5 bar i does not care. Mine still works as intended so no need to replace it yet, maybe for the looks of it because its all rusted.

Remember to first try on a spot that is not visible so if it do not work you do not make it worse. Is not leather kind of easy to get clean? But i guess leather is sensitive to chemicals but steam is very hot so take care so you do not get burns.

@@saab900turbo9 Yes, will be careful, although I will be doing some spot dying as well. The stains in leather penetrates beyond the surface, so I want to get as much of the discoloration out before I apply the dye.

@@TheBTG88 hope it works. Last resort might be bleach?

Boost gauge was a temporary thing that became permanent. So my car i not the rust winner after all 😉

Yes, the AC cars don have cabin filters?

Most of it is linseed oil. It seems to leak a bit while engine is running but very little while not running...i think. When its not running the leak is about a drop a week or less. So the leak is probably above the oil level, and that is good. These engines is prone to leak even the rebuilt ones. Guess its a feature :) A little leak is ok for a car with a 33 year old engine and and some miles on it, but something to keep an eye on and of course KNOW whats leaking and where its coming from. Usual leaking spots on this i have read is: oil pump, where the gearbox and engine is joined, head gasket, power steering valve cover and of of course all seals for all axles going out of the gearbox or engine. Where was your leaking from? Mine does not leak from the axle where the clutch is, so much i do know. What does TLC mean?

TLC = Tender Loving Care, it's an English expression. I think mine was leaking the worst from the engine/gearbox gasket and each end cover, but it was the worst on the flywheel-side end cover. It was dripping down and running into the primary housing "drain hole" (that Saab luckily designed into the housing) below the clutch output shaft. Of course it then hit the bottom of the pan and splashed everywhere with the turbulence underneath. Only a drop once in a while is pretty nice! My '92 had that marking pattern, but it was actually oil coming out of the gearbox at the differential cover. That car's being rebuilt as well. Was supposed to be a quick engine-out, engine-in repair but it turned into a full restoration after I found a bunch of rust in the body. Funny enough, I just uploaded a video of reassembling the engine for the '92 over at my other account: BFJRestoration. It's pretty long, but fun to play it in the background of other tasks. I tried to be thorough with real-time video and part numbers on screen as I went, so hopefully folks find it useful.

@@austinvitoux That is what it means. My native is not english so some expressions i do not get and spelling and building sentences are other things i am bad at. Goolge helps a lot. In my language we often put words together, english is the other way around i have noticed. The place mine is not leaking is at the flywheel end. Some leaks can be hard to find. My volvo leaked at the valve cover. It found its way between the engine and gearbox and dripped down there so i was a bit irritated that a car whom is bearable broken in already leaks, also its an old 740 and those cars is not fast but never dies or get serious problems. Then i found the problem and now its very dry. I think it leaks a bit more while it runs so i have to keep an eye on the oil levels. And park on some cardboard at home. I am considering a rebuild in a few years if the leak do not get too bad then movies like yours can be GOLD, after all i am just a happy amateur.

​@@saab900turbo9 After I commented the first time, I remembered you're over in Sweden (if I remember correctly) and felt bad that I may have caused you some confusion with the translation. Sorry about that! I've always heard those older Volvos are like tanks and keep running forever. Glad I could help with the rebuild video. I'm also trying to help my future-self in the process as well. I can go back to it whenever I need to refresh my own memory.

@@austinvitoux I often understand the most except for some phrases and words, but those are often easy too look up. The hard part for me is answering so people understand me. If you ever get an older volvo, they are also getting rare nowadays. you want the "red block" engine. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_Redblock_Engine. Mine is non interference so if the belt timing snaps you just put on a new and ride on like nothing ever happened. Not only is it tough its also very simple and easy to understand and work on. My brother got one and it soon passes 500 000 km. Mine is "young" at about 150 000 km. Volvo today lives on the reputation of these old cars. Your video is amazing, its like a "how to rebuild a saab 900 engine for dummies". Really excellent work and will probably help a lot of people.

Looks awful. They did not think it through it seems because the original large 4x10 speaker is half covered with metal.

Yes but those lida are becoming rare nowadays. Before my old was stolen i did the same(Yes they took the whole lid). A bonus is that they dont see speakers they want. The subbs under the chairs makes up for the smaller speakers.

@@saab900turbo9 The glass all around my car (ex windshield) has a dark tint that hides the speakers (and other things) from prying eyes. But I understand your reasoning.

​@@TheBTG88 That is good because the lock on these old cars are REALLY bad. Back in the day you could accidentally enter the wrong car and start it and then realize your mistake.

They are quite unique. I got this from my brother for my licence too, about 15 years ago. Then i just held on to it until i could fix it up. It got some problems but fixable. The hardest parts to find is parts for the body. They are quite rare these days so they could be hard to find.

You can import one from Netherlands as they're very cheap, and they're quite honest.

Polish machine: Tokya OP5 Gen2 Polish: King Carthur Reshine set(easy color coded for beginners) Wax: Soft99 Fusso Coat(black) A set of foam pulleys and alot of masking tape. Then its just time and elbow grease and some microfiber towels. Do not forget to clean the car carefully. If your car have not been cleaned in a very good manner before use a clay bar to remove all the grit from the paint. If you do not clean it good the result might be disastrous. Cleaning the car is the most important step to get a good result. I used a deep cut foam pulley together with deep cut polish(rubbing). After that i used the heavy polish, then i waxed it. You can polish it even more(finer polish) if you want but that was enough for me.

@@saab900turbo9 It would have been great to watch you in action and to see the transformation as it took place.

​@@pbutter237 I actually thinked after i was almost done: maybe i should have filmed that? Next time ill do it. I might get i shabby car in the garage soon enough.

well at least you can refresh the adjustment rod while its out

Did not know how hard it was to get back in

thats what she said 😆@@saab900turbo9

I'll look into that in the future. I do not want to change the appearance too much so it looks weird. That is why i wanted too keep the the soft yellow glow like an old lamp.

@@saab900turbo9 Picking the appropriate’K’ value of the light for the individual application will ensure it is a positive change.

Yes. The one i use is a converter of the shelf product. I just put it in a smaller more usable container.

At least i get fresh air 😆

@@saab900turbo9 and weight reduction😀i have no idea what stage your project is in,but good luck. I love this car. And the turbo lag too😀

@@judod97 The turbo lag is half the fun 😉. The stage im in is a bit unclear, i try too fix the most critical parts. Summer is fast approaching and there is some body work i want to at least fix a little. The car is legal to drive and the main problems with rust on the serious parts is fixed. This is a "rolling" project. At least during summer. Maybe i should do a fast summary video soon? You got one of these too?

@@saab900turbo9 i always wanted one,but it is difficult to come by and even more to find parts. Not impossible,but i have project motorcycles that take all the free time and money...good luck,i will subscribe so i can track your progress🙂

​@@judod97 I miss a few trim parts and they are really hard to come by nowadays. I do not do the most beautiful fixes but they often work. My brother got a honda CB450 "black bomber" with 4 gears in the gearbox. Its quite unique, especially with the 4 gear gearbox. He got many cool cars and motorcycles, i try to get him too do youtube videos too. We will see if i get him going.

This is a fast and ugly fix because i want to drive this very soon and i dont want rain in it. New metal is the way to go always. I will watch that and my brother can help as well. He always use new metal, but takes time to get it right, especially if you are a beginner like myself.

@@saab900turbo9 I'm not knocking you mate, I'm just spreading the word, he's a really great teacher👍

@@ddoherty5956 i believe you, this is just a fast temporary fix, looks better at least but the main fixing is the rain getting in. When the times come for real fixing i might watch a lot videos, and his of course.

@@saab900turbo9 you will 🤣😉👍🇬🇧

I looked at translations and does it mean its bad? Well the clutch works great now.

The data sheet for the one i bought says: Polymer as base, 2% oxalic acid and 10% tannin. So i am not sure how to make your own. With 99.9% pure acid be extremely careful. Googled pure as you have and people have died of the fumes. The lack of instructions is probably because it is not for private use, too dangerous. Sell it too a company is my advice or dispose of it in a safe way. You will need some heavy protecting gear if you should handle stuff like that and good experience with acids overall.

@@saab900turbo9 Thank you for your kind consideration. I can sense that you cared in this message, and that I appreciate. The acid I have isnt what you describe, as its sold by Lee Valley in Canada, and they are retailers of reknown in Canada/ USA. Not sure if they are in Europe. They would *never sell something like you describe, as it would open a littany of law suits enough to bury the long standing company. I see they still sell it at in stores, so I'll do some phoning and find out how to make a solution like you used. I appreciate the efforts. BTW, I got it wrong - mine is 99.6% purity, not 99.9% (not that it matters much). Cheers

@@LitoGeorge Then maybe its not the same harmful acid i have read of? Many countries have very relaxed laws about somethings. Here in sweden you cant even buy RC fuel without a paper from the state permitting you. So here its hard.

​@@saab900turbo9 I dont know what you have read of, but I can say this: I dont know how you live in such a restricted fashion. I'll admit that there are mega restrictions here in Canada too. I grew up in Africa - and there, anything goes. I prefer it that way for many reasons. You want to be stupid there, it will hurt. Or kill you. Otherwise, go crazy and have fun.

@@LitoGeorge Sweden got many restrictions. Some are of course good and when you grow up in them you get used to them. But the RC fuel thing is new and kinda silly. www.mountsinai.org/health-library/poison/oxalic-acid-poisoning Not that acid you have?

And alot of salt aswell. But everything is fixable.

Det är snarare en 12 volts "avimmare". Den hjälpte innan motorn blev varm när jag bodde bredvid en sjö. Åka 50 meter-->skrapa rutan och upprepa detta antingen tills man var en bit från sjön eller motorn blivit varm. Denna lilla grej gjorde att man fick ett "hål" stort som en handflata att titta ut igenom så man slapp stanna och skrapa en ruta som isade igen direkt. Men jag håller med dig, det ser ut som en kupévärmare med väldigt udda placering🤔

Jaha, vilken rolig grej! En sådan kanske man skulle ha. Tack för förklaringen! Jag gissade nog som jag gjorde bl.a. för att jag har funderat mycket på min kupévärmare, och var den borde stå för att fungera allra bäst, utan att vara i vägen. Till slut hamnade den vid mittplatsens golv på kardantunneln i min 9-5:a. På så vis blev det lite värme till hunden i bagageutrymmet också. Fin bil du har, förresten. @@saab900turbo9

yes, oxygen and water gets in to the bare metal behind the rust to make more rust. But now its oil there so it cant. The bad part is that cold pressed linseed oil really never cures fully so it can easily get flushed away. So you have to do it multiple times and in a dry area so you dont trap oxygen and water in there with the oil.

In this cramped spaces it is hard to get the camera to zoom om the right thing. But i did not find any other film where this operation is shown, so maybe it helps someone.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_heater Exactly like modern inductive stoves work. If its rusty i would also try some of the bolt extractors shown last in the video. Just hammer one on and go. Helped me alot of times. If its on REALLY good then you can heat and cool it in cycles. I put snow on the red heated bolts and then you use penetrating fluid and let it sit for a few hours and let the fluid do its magic.

@@saab900turbo9 Thanks for that. Very interesting. However, on Amazon the price is in the order of £200 and up. Probably cheaper to get a new back axle at the breaker's yard - or ask the garage to do it.

@@v8pilot Or just use a blowtorch. Or try without. A few not to hard knocks and some penetrating fluid applications for a few days might also do the trick. Sounds extreme to change the whole axle just for a nut sits a bit hard. Before you go extreme you should always try cheap and easy things.

@@saab900turbo9 Many thanks. I have already given it some blows with a good size hammer and lots of penetrating fluid. I noticed that I had started to deform the plug's hex head....

@@v8pilot Maybe a little TOO hard blows. Use a good socket when you try to remove it. Some sockets have small "jaggies" to grip the outer parts of the bolt while the better ones is formed like the bolt. Then you can hit the wrench with a hammer and hopefully it will come loose. clean with good steal brush, maybe a rotating one you put on a drill.

The manual window winder works fine so for now its low priority. The rust in the doors will have to be fixed at some point and then i will probably show it. This car have many issues and the window winders is thankfully for me not one of them. Next winter might be the winter i get to the more "low priority rust" like i deem the doors to be. Do you have a car like this of your own?

@@saab900turbo9 I have a 1990 No turbo coupe. I have afrermarket electric window winder but want to replace with manual one that was the original configuration

@@matteo-giacometti if you can get your hands on a Haynes book or one like it. It may show how its supposed to look? My Haynes book have nothing about ignition key or how to remove it. Probably because it would not be a good idea to show how to steal it. If the same apply for doors i do not know.

The engines is pretty solid in these. Turbos usually have a hard life so they can give up if pushed often. I try not to loose grip and good tires is a must in a car with some horses under the hood for many reasons other than slipping. Did the car eventually die?

You sound like an irresponsible child, bragging about how you destroy things.

I think its "third party" or maybe come with some alarm systems. On mine its a separate little "key" on the video its blue flashing thing where you put the key and then you can start with normal key. The bulb get + that flows through it to power the alernators magnetic field(it has no magnets) when the alternator is up and running the bulb ger + from both sides = the light from bulb stops. The generator is then selfsustaning with a special relay i think it was. I think the immobilizer checks if the engine is running with the alternator.

Was it similar to mine? Mine did not seem to drain the battery but did stall the car once in -28 C or -18,4 F. Not ideal to be stranded in that temperature but my brother was near and could get me and i managed to roll into a road pocket so i was not in the way of other cars. Two days later it started up like nothing ever happened and have not done it since but you never know. If i take it on a long road trip it will probably act up again. The volvo also had one but it left the old owner stranded several times in the depth of the woods so after a few long tows he got rid of it also. They probably work great when they are new but after 10- 30 or so years they get unreliable.

@@saab900turbo9 I can’t be sure.