SharpeningSupplies.com is a one-stop shop for sharpening products and information on the Web. Customers can count on expert advice, honest and accurate information, and reasonably priced products. We’re happy to help people understand the sharpening process and figure out what they need to get started. We want to spread the word about the importance of sharp tools and knives and we’re happy to show you how you can do-it-yourself.
In our sharpening videos, you'll see the sharpening process in action and learn how to sharpen with confidence. We’ll walk you through each step and answer frequently asked questions.
I don't trust online Bess test because of how easy it is to manipulate data. My go to sharpness test is to push cut onion Brunoise. Good luck cheating on that one.
The best way is to use a lined rod then a diamond to remove burrs and define the edge. Then us a stone corse and fine finish on a non tapered smooth steel and hone on ceramic. If you have a tapered smooth steel use between non tapeted steel an ceramic.
As a student I spent a summer job working in an abattoir. All knives were honed on a steel, after every few cuts, with the steel point upwards - none of this modern nonsense of a downward pointing steel.
Palingan atuh seukeut ai pahat sia maah... Horeng mah ngasah na ge kitu😂 teu kawas aing manual nga gosrek we can cangkeul mah kokod seukeut hanteun geura😂😂😂😂
"How to Sharpen Knifes Like Chef" *proceeds to grind a blade oppsite from self* 💀💀💀 *vine_agghh_death_noise.wav* "i prefer abbrasive rods" 💀💀💀💀💀 What a bozo
Must be pretty new? Last time I was looking into these roller Sharpeners, it was the knockoff of the German made original one. Didn't know worksharp came out with one!
I'm sure somebody's already said it but the chefs that are doing that very fast are just using a honing rod not in abrasive rod.. which really does nothing
I’m not sure why all the hate on this video. It seems that people are confused about the differences between honing steels and abrasive honing rods, the definition of honing, and why you would hone in the first place. I’m glad you don’t advocate the use of honing steels, those only do anything if you do not understand sharpening and still have a burr on your knife when you use it. It is absolutely beneficial to use something like a diamond honing rod regularly when you use your knife, as the refining of the scratch pattern with its very small abrasive particles both keeps the edge apexed and helps with the integrity of the edge, preventing it from chipping as easily. Source: watching too many OUTDOORS55 videos and being a hand tool only woodworker. My chisels and plane irons shave easily and I’ve sharpened to hair whittling before, I just don’t see much of a use for it.
The best use of this tool is for comparing your own sharpening edge to edge and only when you as consistently as possible cut the wire. Best advice is on the provided info: You CANNOT cut the wire too slowly but you CAN cut the wire too fast!
You don’t really know enough about the topic to correct this guy, here’s why. A: he’s one of the only people I’ve seen that advocates non-steel honing rods (because they don’t do anything) B: Honing is just a word we give to the action of moving up in grit, or down in particle size. You can hone a 60 grit edge with 120 grit, you’re just refining the scratch pattern and leaving a more even surface. The reason we make a distinction with these extremely fine abrasive particles is simply because at the point where they would be used, the only thing the further refining of the scratch pattern does is keep the edge from chipping and keep the apex straight and as thin as possible. If you made a knife out of something like copper, the honing step might be defined by a different range of grits.
That’s mostly because steel rods only do something if you leave the burr on your knife (which you would only do if you’re not educated on sharpening and how knife apexes work)
Intern and commis who knows how to sharpen knives and swords: 🤡🤡🤡🤡🤡🤡🤡🤡🤡 This video here not even sharpening the knife, just straightening the bent dull edges
You are just plain wrong. The honing steel was invented as a way of “straightening a rolled edge.” This was before we understood what was going on at the apex when we sharpened, and we were leaving the thin wire that formed from sharpening on the apex of the blade. It’s called the burr and it’s very fragile, so it would bend over easily, making chefs think their knives were dull. The honing steel was able to bend the burr back in line, making them think they were realigning the apex. In reality, you should be removing the burr in a process called stopping. Once you do that, a steel honing rod does nothing but damage your apex. Diamond and ceramic rods can be used as a step in honing where the scratch pattern is refined by smaller and smaller abrasive particles, which helps to keep your edge from chipping.
The Tormek T-2 is made for commercial kitchens, the T-1 is their home version for kitchen knives. Neither of those can sharpen chisels. I'm guessing you've got something like the T-8 or T-4, both of which are super versatile and will be able to sharpen your kitchen knives too.
What you’re showing is “honing” the knife. It’s only 1 very small step in actually sharpening a knife, and it’s the very last step (as long as you’re not using a strop) Using a honing steel on a totally dull knife won’t do anything but waste your time. Also any self respecting cook will never throw a knife in any sort of automatic sharpener. Those literally eat knives.
Using a honing steel on a knife that isn’t being used with the burr as the cutting edge will do absolutely nothing. The ceramic and diamond honing rods absolutely help with sharpness and knife upkeep. Since the abrasive particles are very small, it’s hard to remove lots of material with them, but they also refine the scratch pattern which aids in keeping the edge apexed after light wear and prevents the edge from chipping. If you regularly used the abrasive rods he shows, that will absolutely keep your knife sharp for much longer. It’s like stropping after every use of the knife, without the possibility of grit contamination on your leather.
The best number I have gotten was 47. That was with a cheap little cheese cleaver. My best score with a real knife was 97. Typical for me is in the 125 to 225 range.
Absolutely, the abrasives are a mix of Norton ceramic, Norax and silicon carbide belts. Plus the blade grinding attachment has the option of cloth belts for your own honing compounds. Just a heads up, the Work Sharp Ken Onion has just been updated to the Mark 2. It uses the same abrasive belts though.
interesting how people use whetstones so differently - i havent seen many people switch knife hands while sharpening in these tutorials. that must take some getting used to.
I find it useful when sharpening knives with pronounced bolsters. So long as the technique you're using gets you sharp knives, it really doesn't matter what you do.
100% you are right because i was doing it slowly which made total sense to me. Then i thought i was keeping the thread loose. After watching tour video and checking the guys that are getting approximately 25 and 20 scores u know the ones that start with a razor blade that gived them - score of 15 and 20 grams
And then the get a pc of shit knife, a stone maybe or s plastic pc of a toy then they sharpen it through the tumbler roller and they always get 25grams and then feel so bad that they couldn’t get it less than 15 grams and of course it is followed by a link from where to buy their product or how to send them your dull anything, maybe you laptop and they will sharpen it😅
